WeekendFREE Issue 696 | 9 May 2024 REGEN FARMING Why sustainable soil practices will provide a thriving future p2 IT’S EUROVISION! Scott Mills on hosting pop’s big night and Abba’s anniversary p10 & 44 TASTE THE SUNSHINE A Mediterranean-inspired menu bursting with flavour p27 OFFERS Great savings on selected products from Waitrose p48 PICK OF THE BUNCH Martha Collison makes the most of British asparagus season with this deliciously fuss-free tart, p24
2 News&Views 9 MAY 2024 “We feel like we’re on a rocket ship,” says regenerative farming pioneer Gabe Brown. It’s how the star of 2020 Netflix documentary Kiss the Ground and author of Dirt to Soil describes momentum for the soil health movement, known as regenerative or regen farming. Broadly speaking, it means swapping industrial farming methods for those that repair and revitalise ecosystems, beginning with all life in the soil. Gabe was the keynote speaker at the Leckford Farming Conference (8 May), where Waitrose announced a new 10-year project, Farming for Nature. It sets out a commitment to work with British farmer suppliers in a move to regenerative practices to protect soils, enhance biodiversity and conserve water for more than 2,000 of its UK farms as a route to meeting carbon net zero across its operations by 2035. This is because of soil’s amazing capacity to store carbon if farmed in the right way by, for example, practising minimum or no tillage and keeping roots in the ground year round with cover crops such as vetch, oats or crimson clover, to build soil organic matter and prevent erosion. Unlike organic (which goes further, banning synthetic pesticides and fertilisers), there is no agreed legal definition for regenerative farming in the UK, nor are there auditable standards. The guiding principles for the Waitrose project will follow those of the Sustainable Agriculture Initiative – protecting and enhancing biodiversity, improving or preserving carbon and water retention in the soil, enhancing the resilience of crops and nature while decreasing pesticide and fertiliser usage and supporting the livelihoods of farm communities. Speaking at the conference, James Bailey, Partner and executive director of Waitrose said: “This is the beginning of a long-term plan, spanning more than 10 years. We have both a huge responsibility and a key role to play in implementing change at the source – alongside our farmers on the farms that produce our fresh food. “We want our customers to know that when they shop with us, they are supporting a food system that cares for the Earth as much as they do and that we are backing our farmers to safeguard their businesses.” “We want to do this in a collaborative way,” adds Andrew Hoad, Partner and head of Leckford, the UK’s only supermarket-owned farm. It’s followed regenerative methods since 2020 and will be a hub for the project. “In partnership with Leaf [the charity Linking Environment and Farming], we are setting up eight satellite farms initially that are representative of di erent types – beef, pork, poultry, dairy, soft fruits, top fruits, glasshouse and root veg – on a three-year programme. We’re looking to co-create regenerative frameworks with our suppliers, designing the solutions together.” Alongside the University of Regenerative farming methods for producing food from healthy land are in the spotlight – and driving change from the ground up, writes Anna-Marie Julyan UNLOCKING SOIL SECRETS FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE MAKING A DIFFERENCE Gabe Brown (left); sun owers in a eld at Leckford (top) Cover: Photographs: Maja Smend, Food styling: Bianca Nice, Styling: Julie Patmore, Art direction: Corrie Heale
3 9 MAY 2024 the government and the food industry. “With the new Sustainable Farming Incentive from the government, more and more people are experimenting with practices like cover cropping, which they can now be financially rewarded for,” explains Groundswell event director Alex Cherry. “Farmer cluster groups are forming, neighbours are sharing ideas and working together on landscape scale projects for biodiversity restoration like never before. Traditional farmer groups and county shows are embracing regen principles, which are no longer seen as being on the fringe.” The five key principles are typically to maximise diversity (of plants, the opposite of monoculture); keep soil surfaces covered; maintain living roots; minimise soil disturbance and integrate livestock. Back on Gabe’s international ‘rocket ship’, he has been busy focusing attention on the power of living soil. Kiss the Ground pulled in star names (it was narrated by actor Woody Harrelson and featured supermodel Gisele Bündchen) and was the first in a trilogy of films arguing that it could o er a solution to climate change. In it, Gabe describes how regenerative methods, such as direct drilling seed instead of disturbing soil by ploughing, keeping it covered, moving livestock routinely around his acreage and planting diverse species of grasses and crops, transformed the land on his 5,000-acre North Dakota ranch into a vibrant, profitable oasis, brimming with life both above and below ground. It followed a series of devastating crop failures documented in his 2018 book Dirt to Soil. So where is the regen movement now? “We’ve made more progress in the last three to five years than we did in the 25 before,” explains Gabe. “Our human health is directly related to the health of the soil. “The number one thing I say to consumers is they can drive change faster than a farmer. They can influence a whole group of farmers, so they need to educate themselves on regeneratively grown food, then get involved with their communities and demand change.” That’s the estimated tonnage of carbon stored in UK soils, roughly equal to 80 years of our annual greenhouse gas emissions. Intensive agriculture has caused arable soils to lose between 40-60% of their organic carbon. Source – The Environment Agency’s State of the Environment: Soil 2019 report THREE BRANDS EMBRACING REGEN Yeo Valley Organic The British dairy company from Somerset is supplied by more than 130 organic farms. It started measuring and piloting regenerative organic practices in 2021, from agroforestry and regenerative grazing in order to diversify from cropping and composting. A pilot project will measure soil carbon sequestration across nearly 20 supply farms over the next ve years. “Regenerative organic farming has the opportunity to be climate positive and be part of the solution,” says founder Tim Mead. Wildfarmed A community of 100 arable farmers in the UK and France, including Waitrose’s Leckford Estate in Hampshire, supply Wildfarmed – a route to market for cereals grown using regenerative farming practices. Set up by musician Andy Cato (see p32), TV presenter George Lamb and nancier Edd Lees, farmers must meet its independently audited standards. Crops must be grown without pesticides and livestock integrated at least once every three years. It supplies our to more than 500 brands and the rst Wildfarmed loaves launched exclusively in Waitrose on 1 May. McCain Best known for its chips, McCain is the UK’s largest purchaser of British potatoes. It buys approximately 15% of the annual potato crop, working with more than 250 UK growers. It has made a commitment to regenerative practices across all its potatoes worldwide by 2030. This means using techniques such as armouring soils with living plants, reducing agrochemical impact, minimising soil disturbance and integrating organic and livestock elements. Reading, Waitrose has secured a grant from government science agency UK Research and Innovation for a three-year project to advance knowledge of regenerative farming practices and share more widely with farmers and growers that supply to Waitrose. It will be rolled out over 10 years to all the supermarket’s UK land-based suppliers. “There’s an increasing realisation that we need to act,” says Andrew, citing recent weather events, from drought in Spain last summer to this March – the wettest in more than 40 years for England and Wales. “There is recognition now that nature provides a lot of the solutions we’re looking for, whether that is about just letting soils do their thing – the protozoa, the bacteria, the fungi, the nematodes, all crucial to soil health. Or understanding that if you build biodiversity in the field and around the margins, you build natural resilience to pests and diseases.” No longer ploughing means Leckford has reduced diesel consumption by 30% – the farm also uses compressed natural gas (CNG), made using its cattle manure to power tractors – as well as the use of heavy machinery that can compact soils. A lot of the solutions are very practical, he adds. The regenerative movement has been gathering pace in the UK. Supporters meet each June at Hertfordshire’s Groundswell Festival, which began as 500 farmers in a field in 2016 and last year, counted 6,600 attendees, including representatives from ‘There’s a realisation that we need to act – and recognition that nature provides a lot of solutions we’re looking for’ 10 billion NEW APPROACH Andrew Hoad with a biomethane tractor at Leckford (far left); a rainfall simulator at Groundswell Festival (far left, bottom); cows at Leckford (left)
9 MAY 2024 5 News&Views JAMES BAILEY Partner & executive director, Waitrose & Partners We have a long history of backing British farmers and now, more than ever, they need our support. The degradation of soil and nature caused by intensive high-input farming methods has reached a tipping point and the long-term sustainability of UK farming and food production is now at risk. There is, though, growing momentum to develop more resilient and nature-friendly farming methods. Four in 10 of today’s Waitrose shoppers express concern about the impact of modern farming on nature and wildlife. We also know it’s in our farmers’ DNA to want to do the right thing for the environment. We believe that we can’t wait any longer to launch real change. This week, we are initiating our commitment to Farming for Nature, which signals a significant new chapter in our history; we aim to fundamentally change the way our food is produced and the impact it has on nature and the planet. We will begin the journey to source our British fresh food – be that meat, milk, eggs, fruit or vegetables – from farms that follow foundation of our Partnership’s Plan for Nature and our ambitious commitment to achieve net zero for our UK farms by 2035. We are taking a bold leap forward by pledging to support more than 2,000 of our British farmers in transitioning to more naturefriendly regenerative farming practices. This is the beginning of a long-term plan, spanning more than 10 years. We have both a huge responsibility and a key role to play in implementing change at the source – alongside our farmers on the farms that produce our fresh food. We openly admit that we don’t have all the answers right now, but we are convinced that someone needs to signal that this change is necessary and that it is possible. Every farm is di erent, so to support our British farmers in this transition, we will collaborate with key industry partners including Leaf (Linking Environment and Farming) and the University of Reading. Together, we will create resources for our farmers: from sharing the latest cutting-edge research to demonstrating practical methods that farmers can introduce on their own farms. We will develop plans for our farmers to access a ordable finance and provide resources to support them. We will provide a market for more sustainably produced food and establish a permanent Centre of Excellence at our Leckford farm in Hampshire, providing practical tools, workshops, online resources and mentoring to equip farmers with the knowledge to make the shift. We can’t do this alone. We need to work across the supermarket industry to achieve a more optimistic future that has high-quality, nature-positive food at its heart. This week, we are committing ourselves to do the work necessary to make this possible – just as we do on our world-leading animal welfare standards – and to provide meaningful support for our British farmers. Some of them are already on this journey; some will be taking the first steps. We want you to know that when you shop with us, you are voting with your purses and wallets for a food system that restores and works in harmony with the natural world, and that supports a financially sustainable future for British farmers. We believe that together, we can create a food system that is GOOD: good for farmers, good for customers, good for animals and good for the planet. regenerative farming practices. This means using methods that farm in harmony with nature, focusing on restoring soil health, growing and rotating diverse crops and integrating livestock. We are committing to working with our farmers to support that transition and to make Farming for Nature as sustainable financially as it will be ecologically. This commitment will help protect British farmers against the e ects of climate change, enhance biodiversity and ensure our customers can continue to enjoy the best British-grown produce for years to come. Farming for Nature is built on the ‘We are pledging to support more than 2,000 of our British farmers in transitioning to more nature- friendly regenerative farming practices’ POSITIVE FUTURE Cattle grazing herbal leys on Leckford Estate FARMING FOR NATURE
6 9 MAY 2024 News&Views Not so long ago, the idea of taking your dog beyond the local park would have seemed absurd. But with the postCovid boom in pet ownership leading to a surge in dog-friendly spaces, the UK is brimming with options for day trips, weekend breaks and holidays with your furry friend. Here’s our pick of the best. Sniff out a city break “Lincoln is the most dog-friendly city we’ve been to,” says travel writer Lottie Gross, author of Dog Days Out: 365 things to do with your dog in the UK and Ireland, who goes everywhere with her Manchester terrier, Arty. “There are so many things you can do – a boat trip on the canal, dog-friendly days at the castle, and you can take your dog into the cathedral too.” Brighton, Edinburgh, Bury St From exploring new cities to zoomies on the beach, there are thousands of things to do with your four-legged friend as the weather warms up, writes Emma Higginbotham DOG DAYS OF In focus Food excursions The fascinating Food Museum in Stowmarket, Su olk, allows dogs almost everywhere, or go for walks through the historic streets of Beamish, the living museum in County Durham – don’t forget to pop into the sweet shop, bakery and pub. At the supremely dog-friendly Coniston Hotel in Skipton, North Yorkshire, you and your pet can go on a y shing experience – catch a trout, and they’ll usually cook it for you. Or join Forage Pembrokeshire for a Welsh wild food experience, and pluck cockles, mussels, seaweed and razor clams for your lunch. Edmunds and London are also distinctly pro-hound, “and Chester is great. There’s the Roman ruins, a beautiful market where you can eat lovely things and plenty of green space”. Hair of the dog For wine fans, Denbies Vineyard Hotel in the Surrey Hills loves four-legged visitors and has acres of grounds to explore as well as delicious vintages to qua . If gin’s your thing, board a boat alongside your pooch for a gin cruise along the Avon, courtesy of the Shakespeare Distillery in Stratford. As for whisky: “I love Annandale Distillery in Dumfries and Galloway, which is run by dog lovers,” says Lottie. “The café is brilliant for a hearty breakfast with locally produced sausages, or even an afternoon tea with a whisky twist.” SUMMER MAGIC MOMENTS Brighton beach (top); Woofstock festival (above); Lottie Gross shing with her dog at Coniston Hotel (right)
7 9 MAY 2024 In my opinion NIHAL ARTHANAYAKE The broadcaster and author airs his views When was the last time you thought about the saiga antelope of Kazakhstan? On a dreary day perhaps, as you peruse your garden from your kitchen window? What would it be like to witness these strange-looking creatures chomping away on your low-growing shrubs? It would be highly unusual considering they tend to inhabit semi-arid deserts, but let your imagination soar. If you can’t quite place what one looks like, then think of the 80s American sitcom Alf, an acronym for Alien Life Form. Unlike the fictional creation of a cuddly furry alien, saiga antelopes, with two spiralling horns protruding majestically, have been hunted to near extinction for their meat and those prized horns. Back in 2005, there were only 48,000 of these truly unique-looking animals left in Kazakhstan. Through incredible work to protect them, as of 2024, there are 1.9 million saigas wandering around the grasslands and semi-arid desert areas of a country more than 10 times the size of the UK. They are now no longer on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s Red List. The reason I wanted to tell you about this success story is because we are being constantly bombarded with reports of environmental decline, loss of biodiversity and impending calamity. Whilst it is important we do not ignore the damage that humans are doing to the planet, it’s also vital that we show what works and that through collaboration and focus we can change the world for the better. Conservationists, governments and local people coming together to find solutions that benefit humans and animals alike. A recent study in the journal Science found that a focus on conservation produced positive results in two-thirds of trials. As powerful as the warnings are, the stories I crave show that we can have agency in changing our planet for the better. Recently, Hollywood star Jason Momoa filmed a 50-second video congratulating the people of Sri Lanka for their attempts to regenerate 10,000 hectares of mangrove forest to help protect and strengthen the country’s coastline. I could have also told you about the success of loggerhead turtles nesting in Florida, or that the rate at which trees were being cleared in the Congo basin had fallen by 74%. Hope is a powerful tool in every aspect of our lives. Embrace it. Nihal’s book Let’s Talk: How to Have Better Conversations (Trapeze) is out now. @therealnihal ‘Whilst important we do not ignore the damage humans are doing to the planet, it’s also vital to show we can change the world for the better’ which o ers tours of Devon’s Avon Estuary. For less active pets, selected Picturehouse and Curzon cinemas have dog-friendly lm screenings, with the sound lowered. Dog tired? Stay over! Hotels are increasingly pro-canine, with some – such as Bodmin Jail Hotel in Cornwall – going above and beyond, with treats in the rooms and a sausage for your dog at breakfast. A favourite of Lottie’s is Dittisham Hideaways in Devon: “You can stay in a shepherd’s hut and go into Dartmouth and explore while your dog has a spa treatment. I don’t know how much Arty enjoyed it, but I had a lovely afternoon!” Websites such as pawsandstay.co.uk specialise in accommodation where dogs are positively welcomed, rather than just tolerated. Reactive dog? No problem If your pooch barks at others, look for accommodation to suit. “East Ruston Cottages in Norfolk specify which of their cottages are suitable for reactive dogs,” says Lottie. “They provide crates, enrichment toys and cooling mats in summer and have a dogsitting service if you can’t leave your dog while you go for sh and chips. The enormous beaches are generally pretty empty, even when the sun is blazing, so Norfolk’s a really great place for reactive dogs.” Get set, go! Don’t forget to pack food, bedding, poo bags, water bottles, toys and extra towels for post-walk sogginess. John Lewis has dozens of canine travel accessories including car boot beds, protective covers, car seats and carriers, waterproof coats and beach and hiking kits – and well-behaved dogs are welcome in all John Lewis stores. Dine in style Many pubs welcome dogs, but do call ahead to check and bring chews or Kong-style toys to keep them busy while you eat. Food havens such as Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire allow your dog to stay in your room while you dine in the Michelin-starred restaurant, and at Michael Caines’ award-winning Lympstone Manor in Devon, your furry friend can sit with you at the Pool House Restaurant & Bar, one of three restaurants at the luxury country house hotel. A real dog’s dinner Some eateries are not just dog-friendly, they’re ‘dog- rst’. Try the Doggie Diner in Cromer, Norfolk, which has both human and hound menus, including pupcakes and pawsecco. At Bailey’s Dog Café in Carmarthen, pooches can enjoy a puppaccino (with their name on the mug) while their humans fuss the owner’s eponymous dachshund, and at the luxurious Love My Human Townhouse in London’s Chelsea, your best friend can choose wholesome treats from the special ‘dog deli’. Go back in time Historic sites often have glorious grounds for walkies. Look out for the National Trust’s pawprints system: three pawprints for their most dog-friendly sites down to one pawprint, where dogs can go in selected areas. English Heritage has a website section devoted to doggy days out and stays, and pets can enjoy the new (free) dog playground at Chiswick House & Garden in London – complete with hurdles, tunnels and balance beams made from fallen timber at the stately home – from 31 May. Many cathedrals, castles and museums now welcome dogs too. For salty seadogs From seal and shipwreck-spotting to simple sandy frolicking, beaches are heavenly for you and your hound. “One of my favourites is Saunton Sands in North Devon, which is enormous,” says Lottie. “The south coast of Pembrokeshire is spectacular too and we love Shetland for its vast white-sand beaches. It’s an overnight ferry journey, but that in itself is a real adventure with your dog.” All of the beaches in Lottie’s book are dog-friendly year-round. Destinations with a difference For the ultimate bonding activity, Canine Dip and Dive have pools in Norfolk, Su olk and Essex, where dogs and their owners can swim together. Music lovers can head to Woofstock, a dog-friendly festival at Powderham Castle, Exeter (14-16 June), or you could even take your hound on a canoe with Singing Paddles, DOG’S LIFE Relaxing at Lympstone Manor (below); a vintage dairy milkman and friend at Beamish’s living museum (bottom) Photographs: Getty Images, Lottie Gross, Alamy
8 9 MAY 2024 News&Views SALAD GOALS FOR THE SUMMER SEASON As children growing up in Dublin, all seven Kirwan siblings learned the secrets of a great salad. They knew how to make their dad’s punchy French dressing to pair with green leaves, as well as the Spanish dip their mum picked up as a youngster in Salamanca. Big ideas start small and the two youngest, Jack and Theo, both now in their thirties, own Sprout & Co, a chain of six takeaway and casual restaurants in Dublin and Kildare, where they also run a farm growing organic salad for their dishes. Saladology: Fresh Ideas for Delicious Salads, out today, is their first cookbook, written by Theo. It’s packed with more than 100 colourful recipes, including Sprout & Co’s “One massive thing that would help biodiversity in our nation would be if all cat owners put a clearly audible bell on their pets’ collars to give birds advanced warning of their nemeses. Every year in spring and summer, cats kill – at a low estimate – around 27 million birds in the UK. By o ering just this little protection, it would help us replenish, regenerate and reimagine the future of our precious living landscapes by giving nature a sporting chance of leading a biodiversity ght-back.” Anna Shepard DO ONE GREEN THING Put a bell on your cat’s collar, suggests Tim Smit, founder of Eden Project LEAVES FOR LIFE Theo Kirwan (left) with his brother Jack; the sweet and sour plum and tomato salad from Saladology Making your home greener might be good for the planet, but it can lack pizzazz. Luckily, British actor James Norton (right) has come to the rescue, spicing up the world of energy saving by fronting a campaign to encourage households to reduce their carbon footprint. Best known for playing amazing when you treat them right.” Inspiration comes from both travel and cookery books. Guindilla peppers lend fire to a quick Middle Easterninspired zhoug sauce served with butterflied mackerel and labneh. A tomato and tofu twist on the classic Caprese salad is borrowed from Momofuku, while a sweet and sour plum and tomato salad is Theo’s version of a side at London’s Thai Kiln. For those short on time, he suggests a homemade fish finger salad: “It’s a very quick salad if you use frozen fish fingers, which I also encourage people to do,” he says. “I make the aïoli with mayonnaise and garlic and add a salsa verde. It’s a tribute to my godmother who has a fish finger sandwich and glass of Champagne when she celebrates a win in life.” Other clever combinations include a deep-red cherry and tomato salad with slices of green chilli, spicy blood orange honey and charred carrot or zingy tuna sashimi with apple and crispy things that he suggests as an appetiser. “We wanted to put our ideas on paper to hopefully inspire people to eat with more flavour and fresh ingredients,” he adds. Salad, but not as we know it. Anna-Marie Julyan Alexa, when should I put on the dishwasher? Prince Andrei in the BBC adaptation of War & Peace, as well as his leading role in Happy Valley, James – or at least his voice – will join you at home, via the Alexa app, to tell you when to put the washing on or start the dishwasher. The Power Nap function, designed by energy supplier Ovo, uses data from the National Grid to indicate when energy is being powered by green sources. In low, relaxing tones, James will say things like: “Right now the grid is quiet – more energy is coming from good, green sources. Visualise the warmth of the sun’s solar rays, the rush of water moving and turbines turning in the wind.” According to Ovo, fewer than a quarter of Brits run appliances outside of peak times (early weekend evenings), even though demand is soaring as more of us ditch gas boilers and swap to battery-powered cars. Anna Shepard most popular sataysfied chicken bowl and paprika chica salad (below). The secret to a great salad, according to Theo, is to use fresh, seasonal ingredients, season well and taste. He’s a fan of herbs – for example his Thai red curry spatchcocked chicken with a herb salad or cucumber and tahini salad uses a medley of dill, mint, chives, parsley and coriander. Including texture or using quick larder hacks, such as miso, tahini, capers, wine vinegars or pickles are also recommended by Theo. “I make lots of crispy things in the book – maple-spiced pumpkin seeds, peanut sesame brittle or crispy shallots, saving the roasted shallot oil for a dressing,” he says. “Vegetables can be so Photographs: Ben Foster, Gerty images, Matt Russell, Shutterstock
9 9 MAY 2024 News&Views LENS ON LIFE Wearing fried eggs over his eyes with a cup of tea in hand, this portrait of Sir Elton John taken by David LaChapelle, taken in 1999, goes on show at the V&A in South Kensington, from 18 May. The photo is part of Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection – an exhibition of 300 works spanning seven decades and covering subjects from fashion to reportage and the male body. The big picture Photographs: © David LaChapelle / The V&A
10 9 MAY 2024 SOUND AND EUROVISION As he prepares to commentate on pop’s biggest night of the year, BBC Radio 2 DJ Scott Mills tells Paul Kirkley why he loves a certain song contest so much, he’s even hired Sam Ryder for his wedding Photographs: David Yeo / Camera Press
11 9 MAY 2024 News&Views Scott Mills was checking into a West Country hotel with his fiancé recently, when he became aware of a mild hubbub in the lobby. “There were all these people behind us going: ‘Oh my God,’” recalls the DJ. “Well, not all these people,” he corrects himself. “It was about four. But anyway, I thought: ‘Who have they seen?’” He mimes looking around, excitedly. “It turned out to be me.” It’s not the first time he’s experienced something like that. Despite being a permanent fixture on BBC radio for more than a quarter of a century, broadcasting to millions of listeners every day, the 51-year-old ‘often forgets’ that people might recognise him. Not least because, in an age when the airwaves are increasingly dominated by TV presenters working their side hustle, Scott is part of that fastvanishing breed – a dyed-in-the-wool, lifelong radio man. Growing up in Southampton, he performed his first ‘radio’ shows for his mum and brother – complete with taped jingles – aged seven. A few years later, with no industry connections (his dad was a secondhand car salesman), he began bombarding his local radio station, Power FM, with demo tapes and, aged 16, was o ered the overnight ‘graveyard slot’ – making him the youngest presenter on mainstream British radio. Was he any good? “No,” he laughs, talking to Weekend from a London co ee shop, before heading in to do his Radio 2 midafternoon show. “And I’m still blagging it now. Amazing, isn’t it?” One method of flying slightly below the radar, he says, is ‘appearing on TV only occasionally’. But he’ll be back on BBC One tonight (Thursday) – albeit largely o -camera – as part of his regular Eurovision partnership with Rylan Clark. As with last year, the pair are providing television commentary for the live semi-finals, before switching to Radio 2 for the final (for which Graham Norton will once again do the TV honours). As Eurovision superfans, it’s fair to say they’re both a bit excited. “I can’t believe we’re here again – it comes around so quickly,” says Scott, who’ll be broadcasting from the Malmö Arena in Sweden, following singer Loreen’s victory in Liverpool a year ago. “I think Sweden’s got a lot to live up to after we hosted it last year [on Ukraine’s behalf]. But the thing with Sweden is they love Eurovision a lot. And they’re very good at it – in the 14 years that I’ve been commentating, this will be the third time we’ve been there.” Last year, Rylan told Weekend that he and Scott are “the worst two people to put together – especially after a few drinks”. Would he agree? “I’m actually the sensible one – I know when it’s time to go to bed,” he insists. “Rylan will lead people astray, because he’s friends with absolutely everybody. He still gets texts from the security guards in Lisbon, or some guys he met in Tel Aviv. That’s just who he is. He’s a friendly guy. It’s my favourite week of the year, because me and him have such a laugh. But it’s also high-maintenance for me, ’cos I kind of have to look after him. But that’s OK.” By a happy coincidence, this year also marks the 50th anniversary of Abba’s Eurovision triumph with Waterloo – but Sweden’s greatest musical export have already ruled out a reunion, despite the final being on their home turf. Does Scott – who’s such a big Abba fan he once staged an
12 9 MAY 2024 News&Views Edinburgh Fringe show called The Björn Identity – believe them? “I’m not sure,” he considers. “I mean, I know of no plans. But surely you can’t ignore it, can you? What I would at least like to see is the [holographic] Abbatars from the Abba Voyage show. But is that even possible in an arena that isn’t bespoke? I don’t know. I think it was Benny who was very adamant that they wouldn’t be appearing. But we’ll see. If we do get any of them, I doubt we’ll get all four.” So who should we look out for this year? “Switzerland are the favourites,” says Scott. “In recent years, they’ve generally sent sad boys singing sad songs, and this year’s entry by Nemo is more of the same, but with a bit more drama. Last year, Nemo came out as nonbinary, and the song [The Code] is about that journey. It’s got a bit of everything. It’s got drama – it could almost be a Bond theme – it’s got an orchestra, it’s got musical theatre, there’s a borderline rap in there… “So that’s definitely one to watch. But I’d also look out for the Netherlands. Theirs is a song called Europapa, by a guy called Joost Klein, and it’s basically him saying how much he loves Europe, and namechecking all these other countries. Which is a shameless way of getting some votes, but it’s also a real earworm. The video has already had more views than the entire population of the Netherlands.” And how does he rate Britain’s chances with Dizzy, by Olly Alexander? “I saw Olly last week, he’s in a really good place,” says Scott. “I mean, he loves everything about Eurovision, so this is a dream for him. And we know that he’s a worldclass artist, as a singer [with Years & Years] and an actor. I know there’s been some negativity [the song stalled at number 42 on the UK chart], but here’s the thing – there is always negativity. “When Sam Ryder put out Space Man, the fans said they didn’t like it. It actually had quite a bad reaction on social media. But that would happen whoever it was – even if it was Ed Sheeran or Adele.” For Scott, Eurovision is an ‘absurd joy’. But he’s also aware of its importance for LGBTQIA+ representation, telling Attitude magazine: “Eurovision has been at the forefront of visibility for our community for decades, and that’s one of the reasons it’s close to my heart.” Such is his devotion to the competition, in fact, that he’s hired Sam Ryder to sing at his wedding in Spain this summer. “Yeah, that’s booked,” he grins. “I had a video call with him last week, because it was a year ago that he said he’d do it, and I’m like: ‘Have you remembered?’ But he showed me his flight details. So that’s all sorted. We haven’t decided what he’s going to perform yet, though. Those talks are ongoing.” Will it be a starry guestlist? “I don’t have that many celebrity friends,” insists Scott, who’ll tie the knot with his Welsh partner Sam Vaughan in the Catalonian town of Sitges. “I mean, Rylan’s coming, and that’s enough to keep everyone occupied, right? That’s all you need.” Scott lives in Hertfordshire with Sam and their cavapoo, Teddy, having left London, departed Radio 1 after 24 years, and turned 50, all in short order. Did his big birthday make him stop and reflect on his half-century so far? “It was more leaving Radio 1 that really made me reflect,” he says. “I mean, I’d not done a last show, anywhere, for 24 years, so I got really emotional on that day. Which I don’t normally do. Before that, I did 24 days of Radio 1 memories on Instagram, which brought back all these things you forget happened: ‘Oh yeah, Katy Perry and I reenacted that scene from Ghost…’” There’ve been plenty of other mad moments along the way, such as Scott Mills: The Musical, an on-air joke that somehow escalated into a fully fledged Edinburgh Fringe show, or the time he thought he was going to die when David Hasselho ’s private jet ran into turbulence between LA and Las Vegas. (There is also a motorway bridge named in his honour, at Fleet Services on the M3, but that’s another story.) Dubbed ‘the Cristiano Ronaldo of Radio 1’ by The Guardian, Scott was 49 by the time he left the station – a full 20 years older than its upper-audience demographic. (Many of whom would no doubt be ba ed to learn that, when joining the early breakfast show in 2001, he was pressganged into a ‘coming out’ interview, to pre-empt any bad publicity about – shock horror – a gay man on the wireless.) During his final days on the station, many people got in touch to say how his Sony Award-winning stint had soundtracked their lives, from listening in the car on the way to school, through university, marriage – and even divorce. “Everyone gets older – it’s the one thing you can’t do anything about,” says Scott. “So I like it when MILES OF MILLS (Clockwise from main) At Twickenham as part of the London Sevens rugby; with ancé Sam Vaughan at Rylan’s book launch in 2022; with dance partner Joanne Clifton for series 12 of Strictly Come Dancing Photographs: Getty Images, Shutterstock
13 9 MAY 2024 interested to find out what Radio 1 was like in recent years. He was always interested in new music and pop culture, and always kept that passion for radio.” Scott’s own passion for radio remains equally undimmed – although he has occasionally been tempted onto TV, taking part in Strictly Come Dancing in 2012 (he lasted six weeks) and even doing a spot of acting, playing a reporter on Casualty and a policeman on Hollyoaks. In 2011, he joined a Comic Relief celebrity trek through the Kenyan desert and in 2022 raised more than £1 million for Children in Need with his 24-hour treadmill challenge. Last Christmas, he also made his panto debut, playing Mayor Mills in Jack & the Beanstalk in Leicester. But as a self-confessed ‘worrier and over-thinker’, stepping into the spotlight doesn’t come easily. “I’m quite a shy person,” he says. “People think that’s weird, because I’m on the radio, but I know loads of shy radio presenters. Jo Whiley and I talk about this all the time. I remember at Radio 2 In The Park last year, when Jo was just about to go on, and I was like: ‘I’ve got you, I know how you’re feeling.’ “The radio is basically talking to yourself – and there are people listening, you hope. Seeing people is a di erent thing. I’ve conquered a lot of my stage fright, though. It’s still not my favourite thing to do, but you enjoy it once you’ve done it. “Sometimes my mum says: ‘You’re not really cut out for this job,’” he adds, with a laugh. Thankfully, there are millions of listeners who would disagree. Scott and Rylan commentate on the second Eurovision semifinal tonight (Thursday) at 8pm on BBC One/iPlayer, and Saturday’s Grand Final is on BBC Radio 2/BBC Sounds at 8pm FOOD BITES people tell me they’ve made the journey with me.” Despite his experience, he was nervous about making the switch to Radio 2 two years ago, and admits it took him a while to get over his feelings of ‘imposter syndrome’. “It’s weird – I spoke to Sara Cox and she said exactly the same thing. But I’m really finding my feet now. It feels like my new family and it’s absolutely the right place for me.” It probably didn’t help that he had to step into the sizeable shoes of radio legend Steve Wright. Was it di cult to hear all the stories, after the much-loved DJ’s death in February, about how he’d felt pushed out of his long-held afternoon slot? “Steve was actually very supportive,” says Scott, who has maintained his predecessor’s audience figures. “About a year into my tenure, he popped his head through the door and was like: ‘How’s the studio? Everything alright?’ Just being the lovely man that he was. I mean, it was always a bit scary when Steve Wright walked in because he was a legend. I felt a bit on edge during the next link, I’m not going to lie… “But no, it wasn’t awkward at all. When I used to fill in for Ken Bruce [on Radio 2], Steve and I would often chat. I’d be like: ‘What was it like at Radio 1 in the 80s?’ And he was ‘Switzerland are the favourites… but I’d also look out for the Netherlands – theirs is a real earworm’ Tipple of choice? I rarely drink now. But I used to love a bit of white wine – usually a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. What’s the taste of summer for you? Pavlova (below). As soon as it hits 18ºC, our Australian friends are like: “Shall I bring a pav over?” What did you have for breakfast? Avocado on sourdough toast, in this café. Who cooks at home? Both of us. I do a decent steak. It’s all about the seasoning. What’s on the wedding menu? We’re not having a sit-down wedding thing, because I nd that the most awkward bit. So it’s going to be food stations, and because it’s in Spain, there will be one of those massive paellas that you always see on Instagram. PARKLIFE Onstage with friend and fellow DJ Rylan Clark at Radio 2 In The Park, in London’s Victoria last year
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE OFFER OFFER OFFER Build your PIZZA Principe Prosciutto Cotto £3.30/110g or 2 FOR £6 Slow-cooked and thinly sliced, this Italian ham’s delicate avour is a wonderful match for tomatoes, mozzarella and basil on pizzas. Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability. Please drink responsibly: waitrose.com/alcohol. Waitrose & Partners King Prawns In Lemon, Garlic & Parsley £4.50/150g These marinated cooked king prawns are ideal for seafood pizza. Menabrea Premium Italian Lager £6.25/4x330ml (selected stores) Pale lager with a fruity, oral aroma. Aged for 30 days for added avour – a great pizza pairing. Respectful Medium Carbon Neutral Free Range Eggs £2.35/6s The UK’s rst carbon-neutral freerange eggs set high enivronmental standards and taste amazing too. Waitrose & Partners Cherry Vine Tomatoes £2.35/270g There’s nothing like sweet and full- avoured tomatoes on pizza and these t the bill deliciously. Galbani Mozzarella SAVE 25% £1.50/125g (was £2) With a fresh and delicate milky taste, Galbani Italian Mozzarella melts perfectly – ideal for pizzas, and a delicious taste of la dolce vita. Principe Prosciutto Crudo £3.30/70g or 2 FOR £6 A brilliant pizza topping with salty richness and a light texture. The perfect pairing for mozzarella – just add a drizzle of balsamic glaze. The Northern Dough Co Original Pizza Dough £2.80/2x220g Achieve pizzeria-style results with this ready-made dough – simply shape, top, bake, then enjoy. Rain or shine, they’re an irresistibly versatile treat all year round – you just need to decide on the toppings. Here’s some tasty inspiration from Waitrose. O ers end 4 June
15 9 MAY 2024 Food&Drink ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor I love trying out new recipes at the weekend, or spending an afternoon baking – it’s a way for me to relax. But on weeknights, even food editors look for quick and easy meal ideas, all the more so now the evenings are getting lighter. That’s why each week, our What’s For Dinner? feature has four no-fuss recipes that don’t need tons of preparation – and won’t create a pile of washing up either! We’ve made shopping for them easier too. The recipes are at waitrose.com by the time Weekend comes out, and you can add ingredients direct to your online order. What’s For Dinner? p16 Meal Maths p21 Too Good To Waste with Elly Curshen p23 The Best with Martha Collison p24 Weekend Menu p27 What I’m Cooking with Katja Tausig p31 Very Important Producer p32 Wine List with Pierpaolo Petrassi MW p34 Photographs: Maja Smend, Food styling: Bianca Nice, Styling: Julie Patmore, Art direction: Corrie Heale MED MENU Get the weekend o to a sunny start with bresaola, broad bean & ricotta bruschette, p27
16 9 MAY 2024 Photographs: Jamie Orlando Smith, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Wei Tang, Art direction: Sharon Davis What’s for dinner? Take the stress out of midweek meal planning with these quick, easy and delicious dishes
17 9 MAY 2024 Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes + marinating Cook 20-25 minutes 6 cloves Cooks’ Ingredients Black Garlic, squeezed 2 tsp light brown muscovado sugar 2 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp chopped rosemary, plus extra leaves to sprinkle 2 x packs British lamb leg steaks 1 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra 400g pack cherry vine tomatoes, kept on the vine 225ml chicken stock 2 x 400g cans Essential Flageolet Beans In Water, drained and rinsed Watercress, to serve (optional) 1 Combine the garlic, sugar, vinegar and chopped rosemary in a small bowl, then mash with the back of a teaspoon to make a thick paste. Rub all over the lamb and set aside for 10 minutes. 2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Scrape excess paste o the lamb and reserve. Fry the lamb steaks for 3-5 minutes on each side (for medium, depending on thickness), until cooked to your liking and the surfaces are well browned. Set aside and keep warm. Add the tomatoes to the pan with a drop more oil and cook for 5 minutes, or until blistered but not collapsed. Keep warm with the lamb. 3 Add 150ml stock and the reserved garlic paste to the pan, then simmer for 8 minutes until slightly thickened. 4 Meanwhile, put the beans and remaining 75ml stock in a saucepan, season generously and heat through. Crush with a potato masher. Spoon onto plates and top with the lamb, sliced on the slant, any resting juices, the sauce, a few extra rosemary leaves and a handful of watercress, if using. Per serving 1571kJ/375kcals/16g fat/6.1g saturated fat/24g carbs/6.4g sugars/7.1g bre/29g protein/0.4g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Black garlic lamb with bean crush & cherry tomatoes Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes + resting Cook 45-50 minutes 2 x 375g pouches Charlotte potatoes, butter removed and reserved 6 cloves garlic, bashed in their skins 200g tub Nocellara olives 1 unwaxed lemon, 8 thin slices plus 2 wedges 2 x 380g packs Essential British Chicken Breast Fillets 80g pack prosciutto crudo, 2 slices halved lengthways 250ml chicken stock, warmed 300g pack ne green beans, trimmed Waitrose Duchy Organic Mayonnaise, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C, gas mark 7. Place the potatoes, garlic and olives into a large baking dish and tuck in the lemon slices. Season and roast for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are starting to colour. 2 Dot the reserved butter from the potatoes over the chicken breasts, then wrap each one with 1½ slices prosciutto. 3 Pour the stock over the potatoes in the baking dish, then tuck in the chicken pieces. Roast for 25-30 minutes more, or until the chicken is cooked through, the juices run clear and there is no pink meat. Meanwhile, steam or boil the green beans for 5 minutes, until tender. 4 Squeeze the lemon wedges over the chicken and potatoes, season, then loosely cover with foil and leave the chicken to rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the green beans and a dollop of mayonnaise, letting it melt into the juices on the plate. Per serving 2543kJ/605kcals/20g fat/4.6g saturated fat/34g carbs/4.3g sugars/8.1g bre/68g protein/3g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Prosciutto chicken & potato traybake with olives and lemon COOK’S TIP Nocellara olives are superbly plump, with a buttery feel, fresh green colour and a less salty taste – a good place to start if you’re not an olive fan. We’ve left the stones in the olives for ease, but crack them under a heavy pan or jar, then pick them out if you prefer. COOK’S TIP Crushed beans or bean mash makes a quick alternative to boiling potatoes for mash. If spuds are more your thing, boil some baby new potatoes, crush roughly with some seasoning and use instead of the beans. Food&Drink A WINNER FOR ANIMAL WELFARE Waitrose holds the Best Retailer Award from Compassion in World Farming – its fourth win in a row. The world’s leading farm animal welfare organisation scored its welfare standards higher than any other supermarket in its biennial awards in 2022. The retailer says the best quality food comes from animals that are treated with compassion and care.
19 9 MAY 2024 Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 15 minutes ½ x 280g jar sliced artichoke hearts marinated in garlic & parsley, drained over a bowl 1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 tbsp pine nuts 300g pouch cauli ower, kale & couscous 15g sultanas 1 unwaxed lemon, zest and 2 tbsp juice 2 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Nonpareille Capers, drained Toasted sourdough, to serve 1 Spoon 1 tbsp oil from the artichokes into a medium saucepan. Fry the onion in the oil for 10 minutes over a medium-high heat until softened and caramelising. Tip in the pine nuts and cook for 1 minute more until toasted. 2 Stir the cauli ower, kale and couscous and the sultanas into the onions, then add 2 tbsp water and heat through for 2-3 minutes until piping hot. O the heat, stir in the lemon zest and juice and capers, then season to taste. 3 Tip into a serving bowl, fold in the artichokes and their garlic, then serve with the sourdough, drizzled with a little artichoke oil, if liked. V Per serving (without sourdough) 1482kJ/354kcals/ 13g fat/1.3g saturated fat/45g carbs/14g sugars/9g bre/ 10g protein/0.7g salt/1 of your 5 a day/vegan Cauliflower couscous with artichokes & capers Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 10 minutes 175g spaghetti 250g courgettes 1 tbsp olive oil 165g pack extra large raw king prawns 3-4 tbsp Plants by Deliciously Ella Green Chilli & Lime Dressing 30g Parmigiano Reggiano, nely grated, plus extra to serve 20g pack dill, leaves only, roughly chopped Lime wedges, to serve 1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the spaghetti according to pack instructions until al dente. Thinly slice the courgettes or use a julienne peeler to produce thin courgette ribbons, if you prefer. 2 Heat the oil in a wide frying pan over a high heat. Sear the prawns for 2 minutes until pink and opaque, then add the courgette. 3 Season and cook for 2 minutes more, until the prawns are pink throughout and the courgette is just tender. 4 Reserve a cup of pasta water, then drain. Using tongs, toss the pasta, dressing, cheese and most of the dill into the prawns. Loosen with 3-4 tbsp pasta water and jiggle it over the heat for a moment. Season to taste. Serve with more dill, cheese, and a lime wedge for squeezing over. Per serving 2226kJ/528kcals/13g fat/3.3g saturated fat/69g carbs/6g sugars/5.9g bre/30g protein/2.2g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Prawn spaghetti with courgettes, lime & chilli COOK’S TIP If you have a spiraliser knocking about the kitchen, it’s time to dig it out to make your own courgetti spaghetti. COOK’S TIPS For larger appetites, you could add more antipasti vegetables, or top with some crumbled Violife Greek White Block feta alternative (or both). If you have leftover artichokes, they work beautifully tossed with pasta. Heat some of the oil in a pan, sizzle the artichokes with garlic, then add more of the pine nuts and allow to toast. Toss in lemon zest and the cooked pasta. Add a handful of spinach or similar to wilt in, then nish with a pinch of chilli akes.
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes + resting Cook 15 minutes 1 mixed olive ciabatta 4 tbsp No.1 Valli Trapanesi PDO Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 x 250g packs Mixed Baby Tomatoes 2 cloves garlic, chopped 25g pack at leaf parsley, leaves nely chopped 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar ½ x 145g pack Cantabrian anchovies, drained 1 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Nonpareille Capers Roast baby tomatoes & chickpeas with bay and garlic Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes + defrosting Cook 1 hour 15 minutes 250g pack Mixed Baby Tomatoes, halved lengthways 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp dried oregano 2 x 220g packs frozen The Northern Dough Company Original Pizza Dough, defrosted 150g pack Galbani Mini Italian Mozzarella, drained 40g pack Cooks’ Ingredients ’Nduja Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle 50g wild rocket 1 Preheat the oven to 150ºC, gas mark 2. Place the tomatoes on a baking sheet and brush with the olive oil. Season and sprinkle with the oregano, then cook for 1 hour, or until shrunken and semi-dried. Remove and set aside. 2 Increase the oven temperature to 240ºC, gas mark 8 and place 2 baking sheets inside to heat up. Roll out the dough into circles about 30cm in diameter. Place on the hot baking sheets. Scatter with the cooked tomatoes, then the mozzarella and nally the ’nduja, torn into chunks. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil. 3 Bake for 10-12 minutes, or until the crust is crisp and lightly browned. Scatter with the rocket, drizzle with a little more oil and serve. Per serving 3472kJ/828kcals/33g fat/13g saturated fat/94g carbs/6g sugars/11g bre/ 34g protein/4.7g salt Spicy ’nduja, slow-roasted tomato & rocket pizza Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 40 minutes 250g pack Mixed Baby Tomatoes 1 yellow Romano pepper, halved, deseeded and cut into strips 6-8 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole 6-8 fresh bay leaves 2 tbsp olive oil 400g can chickpeas in water, drained 1 tbsp red wine vinegar Basil leaves, to serve (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Arrange the tomatoes in a small roasting tin and tuck the pepper strips, garlic and bay leaves between them. Season and drizzle with 1 tbsp oil. 2 Bake for 30 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft and releasing their juices. Add the chickpeas to the roasting tin and return to the oven for 10 minutes more. 3 Drizzle over the vinegar and remaining oil. Season if needed and serve, scattered with shredded basil leaves, if liked. Serve warm or at room temperature with crusty bread. Delicious with soft cheeses, oily sh or tossed through pasta. V Per serving 1491kJ/356kcals/14g fat/2g saturated fat/37g carbs/11g sugars/13g bre/14g protein/0.1g salt/ high in bre/vegan/gluten free Tomato & olive bread salad with anchovies COOK’S TIP Make the semi-dried tomatoes ahead if it helps – or make a larger batch using 2 packs tomatoes and more oregano and oil. Cook, then cool, place in a jar, cover with olive oil and store in the fridge for up to 3 days. Fold into salads, use in pasta sauces, or enjoy with olives and other antipasti. COOK’S TIP Add a few chicken thighs to the pan as the vegetables cook, to turn this into a summer- style roast. For a more substantial veggie version, use feta instead. 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Tear the ciabatta into bitesized pieces and place on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tbsp oil, then cook for 12-15 minutes, turning occasionally, until crisp and golden. Place in a bowl. 2 Coarsely chop ½ the tomatoes and add to the bread with the garlic, parsley and onion. 3 Whisk together the vinegar and remaining oil, then pour over the salad and leave to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. 4 Add the remaining chopped tomatoes and scatter over the anchovies and capers. Serve as a main course or, if preferred, as a side to go with lamb. Per serving 1678kJ/401kcals/20g fat/2.6g saturated fat/ 42g carbs/15g sugars/5.2g bre/11g protein/1.7g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Photographs: Maja Smend, Food styling: Bianca Nice, Styling: Julie Patmore, Art direction: Corrie Heale
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NDY5NzE=