2 18 APRIL 2024 News&Views FESTIVAL MAKES SANDWICHES THE STAR ATTRACTION LOVELY LAYERS (Clockwise from top left) Rogue Sarnies’ The Three Little Pigs pizza sandwich; Liam Barker; venison steak sandwich with balsamic blackberries; braised beef short rib sandwich from The Black Pig; The Untitled Sandwich Shop The popularity of our favourite staple continues to rise, and a new three-day event promises to celebrate them in all their glory, writes Emma Higginbotham When John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, was too busy to stop for lunch, he’d order his servants to bring him slices of meat encased in bread. Little did he know that some 250 years later, his eponymous snack would be the UK’s hottest food trend. Not that sandwiches have ever fallen out of fashion. From chunky doorstops crammed with cheese and pickle, to wafer-thin crustless cucumber triangles, British butties have long been a staple for lunch, afternoon tea and beyond. Yet recently, the UK’s sandwich scene has exploded. Dedicated shops are showcasing gourmet fillings, from chargrilled periperi chicken thighs with pea salsa verde at Mondo Sando in London, to the Philly cheesesteak subs from Fat Pat’s wall hatch, in Manchester. There’s even a three-day sandwich festival heading to the capital next month. Called Sarnie Party, it promises part to play, because sandwiches are very photographable,” agrees Molly. “Even Gordon Ramsay is on the cover of Sandwich magazine – people want to see what Michelin-starred chefs are putting in theirs.” Around 72% of our lunchtime spend goes on sarnies, according to the British Sandwich Association, and we buy more than three billion a year, spending in excess of £8 billion. Chicken tops the list of favoured fillings, accounting for around 31% of all sandwiches, followed by cheese, bacon, ham and tuna. But our tastes are evolving to embrace global options, from neat Japanese sandos to colourful Mexican torta. Liam Barker, the former pastry chef at Corrigan’s in Mayfair who now cooks Caribbean food at pop-ups and private events, creates Bajan ‘cutters’ – traditional Barbados sandwiches made using Bajan salt bread, with fillings typically including fried fish or liver, topped with tomato and lettuce. At Sarnie Party, Liam’s cutters will include lechon (slow-cooked roast pig popular in Puerto Rico) with Dominican Republic-style pink pickled onions, and a Trinidadian garlic sauce. “It has di erent influences from around the Caribbean in one, and all the elements I think you need to make a good sandwich as well,” he says. “Meat, pickle for acidity, sauce, and some kind of freshness is always the winning sandwich combination.” Sarnie Party is at Camden Town Brewery from 17-19 May, coinciding with British Sandwich Week (16-22 May). For more sandwich inspiration, including the venison steak with blackberries (top), see waitrose.com/recipes music, entertainment and bread-based treats created by 20 chefs. “Everyone loves a sandwich. It’s the great equaliser of food, whether you fancy a bacon sarnie from the ca , or a super-bougie eel sandwich in [London restaurant] Quo Vadis,” says Sarnie Party organiser Molly Hutchinson. “They’re such a big trend, and there are so many amazing sandwich operators producing such a diverse range, so we wanted to get everyone together. “All the sandwiches will be original and made for the event, from chunky fried chicken from The Untitled Sandwich Shop to niche toasties from The Cheese Truck and Wine & Rind. The cult guys from The Black Pig will be there, Rogue Sarnies are doing wood-fired pizza sandwiches and Happy Endings will do ice cream sandwiches, because we need a sandwich for dessert as well!” Why is the humble sarnie still so popular? “Sandwiches hold a special place in people’s hearts, and have stood the test of time thanks to their versatility,” says Jim Winship, of the British Sandwich & Food to Go Association. “There is a vast array of combinations, and we’re seeing this grow as social media trends continue to influence the market. The socials are impacting the recipes people are looking to try, especially at home, including the types of bread, sauces and fillings.” “Instagram and TikTok have a huge ‘Sandwiches hold a special place in people’s hearts, and have stood the test of time thanks to their versatility’ Cover: Recipes: Katie Bishop, Photographs: Sam Folan, Food styling: Marina Filippelli, Styling: Tony Hutchinson, Art direction: Sharon Davis
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