47 28 MARCH 2024 Weekending HOLY RAMBLE Lindisfarne Castle (left); the tidal causeway (below left); Lindisfarne Priory ruins (bottom left) Weekend walks Oliver Smith suggests a memorable Easter walk in the footsteps of pilgrims to this revered island LINDISFARNE There are a few ways to reach the island of Lindisfarne, or Holy Island. The vikings famously sailed across the sea. Most tourists drive across the Tarmac causeway, which has been in existence since the 50s. But a few walkers still take the original route – a three-mile crossing of the strait that separates this tidal island from mainland Britain. The Pilgrim’s Way is surely one of the most beautiful walks in England. You cross the mirror-like mudflats, with Holy Island ahead of you and the green Northumbrian hills retreating behind you. It’s easy walking, but it’s a serious undertaking – the tide floods the route every few hours. Timing is essential for any successful crossing, so ensure you depart more than two hours before low tide to avoid being caught by advancing water. Don’t depart in bad weather or low visibility, and never leave at dusk, or at night. If you’re unsure, hire a guide – see holyislandhikes.co.uk. Christian pilgrims cross the mudflats at Easter, when people carry wooden crosses to Lindisfarne on the long-established Northern Cross pilgrimage – register to join at northerncross.co.uk. Starting on the mainland, hikers initially follow the causeway for a few hundred metres, before veering south-east onto the Pilgrim’s Way proper. The route is marked by a series of upright posts around 25 metres apart. But before you step onto the mud, consider your footwear options – hiking boots are prone to getting bogged so most wear wellies, while some opt to go barefoot, savouring the feel of the Northumbrian mud between their toes. Leaving solid ground behind, you enter the liminal world of the foreshore, with gulls above, seals lounging on the sandbanks and crabs shuttling among saltwater puddles. Look out for tidal shelters – curious platforms hoisted over the mudflats, intended as places of refuge for anyone caught by rising water. Fortunately, incidents involving walkers are rare. This route is sacred for many. Lindisfarne Priory was first established by St Aidan in the 7th century and together with his successor, St Cuthbert, he made the island a beacon of Christianity in northern England. A key component of the island’s sanctity was its solitude, something that pilgrims can still savour amid the silent horizons of the Pilgrim’s Way. Lindisfarne’s only village eventually comes into focus – there’s the tower of St Mary’s Church, the ruins of the priory, the hubbub of the crowds and the castle on the farthest shore. Linger here, put your shoes back on and await the turn of the tide or grab a seafood platter at the Crown & Anchor Inn. It’s a wonderful journey all year round, but the Pilgrim’s Way is especially moving at Easter and in spring, as you watch the world of the mudflats reborn with each retreating tide. On This Holy Island: A Modern Pilgrimage Across Britain by Oliver Smith (Bloomsbury) is out now. @olismithtravel Information Best map OS Explorer 340 Holy Island & Bamburgh Start & nish Lindisfarne Causeway, TD15 2PB Distance 3 miles each way Duration 90 minutes Di culty Easy Photographs: Getty images
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