WeekendFREE Issue 690 | 21 March 2024 FLAVOURS OF ITALY From burrata to bucatini, our lasting love for a classy cuisine p6 MARTHA COLLISON No-bake chocolate nest cakes will be a hit with all the family p24 SPECIAL TV MOMENTS Paul Kirkley on the blockbuster shows that bring us all together p40 OFFERS Great savings on selected products from Waitrose p48 EASY EASTER Enjoy the holiday weekend with a time-saving menu starring roast lamb, herbs and potatoes – all cooked in one tray, p27
2 News&Views 21 MARCH 2024 Looking back at how our ancestors did things can help us find ways to manage it today, food historian Eleanor Barnett tells Anna Shepard LEARNING FOOD WASTE LESSONS FROM THE PAST We must dramatically reduce our food waste, says FareShare, the UK’s largest charity tackling the problem. “Every year in the UK, we waste a staggering three million tonnes of edible food in our supply chain, at a time when 13 million people face food insecurity,” says FareShare CEO George Wright. It’s Food Waste Action Week until Sunday (24 March), an opportunity to shed light on this global issue, which leads to one third of edible food produced being wasted. One way to combat it, says food historian Eleanor Barnett, is to examine how we approached it in the past. Her book, Leftovers: A History of Food Waste & Preservation, explores attitudes to uneaten food from the 16th century onwards. From pickling and recipes designed around uneaten food, to giving scraps to the family pig or composting, the book shows there have always been struggles with surplus. “Food waste is an incredibly important part of our fight against climate change,” says Eleanor, a research associate at Cardi University. “What we eat has always been a reflection of who we are, but what we choose to throw away is just as significant.” Each century, menus have reflected our need to incorporate leftovers. “In medieval times, pie crusts acted like Tupperware, preserving the meat, which was sealed with ‘In Victorian times, when it came to slaughtering a pig you would use every last bit of it, from blood pudding to bones’ clarified butter,” she says. “The Tudors had a ‘hotchpot’ soup containing stale bread, while the Victorians loved fritters made from the remains of a Sunday roast, fried in batter.” In the 17th century, Pudding Lane – where the Great Fire of London broke out in 1666 – was packed with “carts that carried refuse down to the nearby river Thames, where the butchers kept ‘dung boates’ full of food waste, which were taken away to be used as fertiliser,” writes Eleanor. Imagine the feasts at the court of Henry VIII – meat dishes, sugar sculptures, candied fruits and jellies – and there were undoubtedly leftovers, especially since surplus demonstrated status. Eleanor details the strong culture of giving what wasn’t eaten or drunk to the poor, which dates back to medieval habits. In Tudor times, leftovers were handed out to those who worked in the household and anyone waiting at the gates. Food was seen as a gift from God, therefore wasting it was a sin. Today, the religious implications have faded, but Eleanor believes there are still moral ones: “In our quest to feed our own nation, we are growing food in other countries and using up their resources, such as fresh water, impacting their ability to feed themselves.” One of the biggest lessons we can learn from the past, she believes, is the benefit of a close connection to food production. “Until Victorian times, many households in rural and urban areas would have kept a pig. Slaughtering it would have been a big occasion – you would use every last bit of it, from blood pudding to bones saved in a brine,” she says. “There is such abundance today, we don’t think of food as valuable.” Without fridges, people worked hard to preserve produce with sugar and salt. “Today, fridges mean food can last a surprisingly long time, so we don’t need to be such vigilant meal planners,” she adds. Refrigeration has lessened the need for pickling, preserving and fermenting foods, although these techniques are being revived as we discover their role in good gut health. Studying past habits is a reminder to keep up pressure on how we manage surplus food, but it also highlights successes, such as inventing products from waste streams – Golden Syrup and Marmite are industrial byproducts – and the impact of a state-run thriftiness campaign in the 40s. “When the government got involved in backing frugal habits in the Second World War, it was incredibly e ective,” adds Eleanor. “Maybe we need that again today?” Leftovers: A History of Food Waste & Preservation by Eleanor Barnett (Head of Zeus) is out now. @historyeats LEFTOVER LEARNING Pickling in jars (above) is still a good way to preserve food; an illustration of medieval feasting (left); help with food waste separation in London, 1940 (below) Cover: Photographs: Hannah Hughes, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Wei Tang, Art direction: Corrie Heale
3 21 MARCH 2024 GOOD NEWS IN BRIEF This week’s uplifting stories from Anna Shepard Floral high A women’s prison and a pub have been awarded National Plant Collection status for the rst time by the charity Plant Heritage, joining more than 700 living libraries in gardens, greenhouses and parks. HMP Eastwood Park, Gloucestershire, boasts an extensive tulbaghia collection in the prison garden, cared for by two female inmates, while the beer garden at The White Hart in Bitton, near Bristol, is home to more than 200 varieties of crocosmia. Bring on brunch If cruising the aisles makes you peckish, you can now tuck into an updated brunch menu at 130 in-store Waitrose cafés from 11am to 3pm and all day Sunday. Eight new dishes use some of the retailer’s awardwinning products and ingredients, including eggs royale with Scottish oak-smoked salmon, Welsh rarebit with ham hock, and brioche custard French toast (below). Dark matters Millions of people around the world will switch their lights o to celebrate Earth Hour on Saturday (23 March), an annual movement that raises awareness about climate change. Landmarks including the London Eye and Sydney Opera House will power down, helping to turn city skylines dark. This year’s campaign is asking participants to spend an hour doing something positive for the planet, from a walk in the woods to cooking a planetfriendly dish. earthhour.org Closing the gap A new study has discovered proteins that are degrading plastic waste in our oceans. Researchers from the University of Stirling in Scotland have identi ed rare bacteria living on plastic debris that could help break it down. This addresses a ‘critical gap’ in our understanding of marine plastic pollution, says lead researcher Sabine Matallana-Surget, paving the way for an alternative approach to tackling the eight million tonnes of plastic waste that end up in our oceans each year. That’s the proportion of GPs calling for the government to endorse time spent outdoors for the sake of the nation’s health, according to a new study. Conservation charity The Woodland Trust questioned 255 doctors from practices across the country, finding that 70% feel time in nature should be available on prescription, 77% believe planting more trees could ease pressure on the NHS, and 94% think boosting tree numbers around urban schools could help curb lung diseases such as asthma in children. Sussex winemaker Ridgeview is closer to meeting its carbon-neutral ambitions, thanks to an initiative devised alongside a local university. In a rst for Ridgeview, whose traditional-method sparkling wines include Fitzrovia Rosé and Bloomsbury, both available at Waitrose, a key component of the production process – known as bidules – will be upcycled instead of going to land ll. Research by University of Sussex students identi ed the opportunity for the family-run winery, which aims to be carbon-neutral by 2030. Around 250,000 bidules, single-use plastic bottle caps which collect sediment during the sparkling winemaking process, will be delivered to Hull-based ReFactory, a specialist in recycling ENGLISH WINE ESTATE NUDGES TOWARDS CARBON NEUTRAL 96% Soy sauce-scented candles, anyone? Beans on toast may be one of Britain’s most-loved dishes, but how would you feel about it being the fragrance for your home? New limited-edition candles from British designer Anya Hindmarch take scent inspiration from our favourite supermarket staples. Choose from Kellogg’s Coco Pops or Frosties, Heinz Beanz or Tomato Ketchup, Fanta Orange and Kikkoman Soy Sauce. The Kikkoman-scented candle is said to evoke the naturally brewed soy sauce, with brown sugar and cedarwood notes overlaid with jasmine and topped with the spice of ginger and black pepper. “I’ve always had a fascination with taking an everyday thing – a household brand, a day-to-day food item – and elevating it, using artistry and craftsmanship, to turn something ordinary into something extraordinary,” says Anya. Crafted in the UK from natural wax, the candles are available at Anya Mart, the designer’s pop-up in London’s Pont Street until 7 April, or at anyahindmarch.com. The shop is a playful version of a British corner shop, selling ‘everyday non-essentials’ including Anya’s Universal Bag, an environmentallyfriendly tote that recently retailed in Waitrose stores. tricky materials, which will turn them into planters for the winery. “It will save a quarter-tonne of plastic from land ll every year, and 475kg of CO2 emissions,” said Ridgeview chief executive Tamara Roberts. “That’s the same as driving from Ridgeview to John O’Groats and back again.” The volume will grow as production at Ridgeview increases, she added. “It’s been wonderful to work with the students and get a younger generation’s view on building a sustainable future.” Ridgeview, whose 30th anniversary is next year, became the rst English sparkling wine producer to receive B Corp certi cation in 2022. It is one of only 25 wineries worldwide to hold the accreditation, which recognises businesses demonstrating exemplary environment and social commitment. Along with several Sussex vineyards, it is backing e orts to raise the value of wine tourism in the UK’s largest grape-growing region from £25 million to £283 million by 2040, creating more than 3,600 jobs. Tessa Allingham Photographs: Stockfood, Getty Images
4 21 MARCH 2024 OFFER NEW NEW NEW NEW NEW Speckled Chocolate Crispy Mini Bites £3.25/198g or 2 FOR £5.50 (o er ends 13 August) Rice bites in milk chocolate dotted with candy beans. 4 Chirpy Chicks £4.50/4s Chirpy Easter chicks made from golden sponge with vanilla buttercream and nished with cute, hand-piped faces. Hot Cross Bunettone £8/500g A spiced Italian cake made with sultanas, butter, candied orange and lemon peel, with a sachet of icing sugar for dusting over. Simnel Cake £13/each A spiced, all-butter fruit cake with vine fruits and glacé cherries, layered with toasted marzipan for an intricate nishing touch. 5 Simnel Slices £3.75/5s Lightly spiced fruit cake with vine fruits and glacé cherries, layered with sweet marzipan. Ready to serve in perfectly portioned slices. Colomba Cake £14/750g Baked in the shape of a dove – the symbol of peace – this Italian cake has candied orange, whole almonds and a sweet hazelnut frosting. 9 Mini Easter Cupcakes £4/9s Golden sponge fairy cakes with fondant icing and handmade sugar decorations. An Easter treat for adults and kids alike. Easter Jack The Jack Russell £8.50/each In homage to HM The King’s pet, this is a chocolate sponge with chocolate buttercream, sugar paste and sugar decorations. Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability. Joys of SPRING Step into Easter with this sweet selection of treats from the Waitrose bakery aisle Hungry for more? Simply scan the QR code below for the full range of baked Easter delights from Waitrose
5 21 MARCH 2024 News&Views COMMUNITY HOPS TO IT IN SUPPORT OF BREWERY Hops have taken hold in gardens and allotments around Stroud in Gloucestershire, where every March a local brewery hands out free root cuttings to the green-fingered. Stroud Brewery’s Hop Club started 15 years ago and now includes around 60 hop-growing members, with a core of 30 who congregate each September with their harvest. To the sound of a local jazz band, they pick hop cones from the bines (or stems), adding them fresh to a 4.2% pale ale aptly called Brewer’s Garden. Their reward is a few pints when it’s ready, three weeks later, and the knowledge that they’ve collaborated to create something special. “It’s one of our bestselling beers,” Bin bags and rubber gloves at the ready. The Great British Spring Clean is under way, calling on people to tidy up the places they love in their neighbourhoods. The UK’s biggest mass-action environmental campaign – running until 31 March – expects a bumper turnout as the charity behind the annual litter-picking event, Keep Britain Tidy, celebrates its 70th anniversary. To mark the occasion, you can make a Platinum Pledge to pick 70 items of litter, or spend 70 minutes litter-picking. If you’re feeling ambitious, you could join up with neighbours to commit to lling 70 bags with rubbish. Thousands of schools will also be taking part in the Great Big School Clean, learning about the problems created by litter – from injuring animals to contaminating our waterways – and witnessing how small actions, when taken together, can make a big di erence. The good news is that many of us have already embraced litter-picking. Research by Keep Britain Tidy suggests that 16% of the adult population – more than 8.5 million people – do it at least once every six months. Last year, 350,000 volunteers from every corner of the country collected 400,000 bags of litter from our streets, parks, beaches and other locations. More than 110,000 bags have already been pledged this year. Allison Ogden-Newton, chief executive of Keep Britain Tidy, says: “Litter-picking is a simple action that makes an immediate and visible di erence to your surroundings, while also bringing people together and getting everyone active.” The organisation’s research suggests that it also leads to a closer connection with your community and boosts mental health. In a survey of Great British Spring Clean participants from 2022, 85% reported that it made them feel more pride in their local area, while just under three quarters of respondents said that it helped to improve their mental wellbeing. Anna Shepard Join the great British litter challenge says Stroud Brewery managing director Greg Pilley. “Local landlords and drinkers see it as a seasonal harvest celebration. It goes very quickly.” The diverse plots tended by members contribute to its success, he adds. “Hops are di cult to grow – one year might be better than another – but collectively we always get a pretty good harvest. To be honest, quite often they are neglected, but most people come to the brewery in September with at least a carrier bag full and some bring masses. It’s quite a spectacle, with a room full of greenery, children, dogs, music and the heady floral, earthy aroma of hops.” It began after Greg was given two hop plants for his birthday and planted them outside the brewery. In 2008, the head brewer used them in a small batch of green-hopped beer. “A local lady called Sue Day volunteered to grow more for us on her allotment and it just took o from there,” adds Greg. The organic brewery is B Corpcertified and supplies local Waitrose stores with three of its beers, although you might need to join the hop club to sample Brewer’s Garden. March is a good time to get them in the ground, and the hardy climbing perennial plants can live for 20 years or more. Anna-Marie Julyan “Running a hosepipe for an hour uses the same amount of water as 12 baths. A water butt tted to a drainpipe is a simple but e ective way to save water – even in dry areas of the UK, a water butt collects around 24,000 litres of rainwater every year.” Anna Shepard DO ONE GREEN THING Jo Osborn from Waterwise encourages people to capture rainwater for World Water Day tomorrow (22 March) RAISE A GLASS Stroud Brewery (left); the hop harvest is sorted (top)
6 21 MARCH 2024 News&Views From pizza to pasta and olive oil to burrata, our appetite for Italian food shows no signs of waning. Sarah Barratt discovers how it became the nation’s favourite cuisine When he arrived in the UK from Italy in the 60s, Professor Diego Zancani asked for some olive oil to make a plate of dry peas more palatable. His host duly packed him o to the chemist, where he procured a tiny bottle of an oily substance. Olive oil, it turned out, was used exclusively as an antidote to ear infections. Fast forward to today and Italian food has well and truly conquered Blighty – Waitrose alone o ers at least 60 types of olive oil, not to mention delicacies such as ’nduja, burrata and Nocellara olives. Indeed, the most recent Waitrose Food & Drink Report found that Italian was “hands down our favourite international cuisine”, with a third of those surveyed revealing they ate it more than any other. “I’m seeing two sides to this trend,” says Waitrose Partner and innovation manager Lizzie Haywood. “People are eating more pasta and pizza because they’re simple, delicious and a ordable. Then there’s the foodie side – led by celebrity cooks like Stanley Tucci – focusing on regional ingredients such as porchetta and trofie.” Waitrose Partner and buyer Elinor Gri n reports a rise in pasta and pasta sauce sales in the past year, with pesto being a weekly staple for many. “But BUON APPETITO! In focus customers are becoming more adventurous, sampling new flavours such as black garlic and tru e – and cooking Italian classics like cacio e pepe,” she says. “The success of Italian food in Britain seems to be unstoppable,” says Diego, who, alongside teaching linguistics at Oxford University, seeks to educate about the origins of ‘Britalian’ cooking. In his book How We Fell in Love With Italian Food, he tracks the beginning of this cross-cultural love a air to the Romans, who arrived at English ports with boatloads of wine and olives. However, when their legions retreated, so too did these spoils of subjugation, and Britain became a ‘culinary wasteland’. At least, that’s how food writer Anna Del Conte put it when she arrived from Milan some two millennia later, in 1949. The now 99-year-old is credited with transforming Britain’s understanding of Italian food with her revolutionary cookbooks, including Portrait of Pasta and Gastronomy of Italy. “All Anna’s dishes are fabulous for home cooking,” says Paola Maggiulli, a cookery teacher and Italian food expert. “Her style lends itself to what the British need – it’s simple, flavourful and quick, ideal for the busy British lifestyle. The nation has fallen in love with pasta – it’s so versatile and easy.” But Italian foods such as macaroni and ice cream arrived long before Anna Del Conte – thanks to a boom in tourism to Italy and an influx of Italians to the UK in the 1800s. More migrants followed after the Second World War, with most working as waiters, although others set up delis, such as Lina Stores in 1944, and eateries including Bar Italia in 1949 – both of which are in Soho and still exist today. Despite this rise in restaurants, our knowledge of Italian cuisine remained limited. This was evident on 1 April 1957, when the BBC broadcast a spoof documentary about the spaghetti harvest, showing people plucking strands of pasta from a tree. “Many viewers fell for this April Fool,” laughs Diego. By the 60s, he notes that ‘enjoying a meal with other people’ had begun to take o in the UK, ramping up in 1965 with the arrival of Pizza Express in Soho. Within a few years, more than 300 opened across the UK. But the passage of pizza to our plates was far from simple. This southern Italian dish was first introduced to the US by Italian immigrants in the early 1900s, quickly becoming popular due to its convenience and low cost. The first Pizza Hut opened in Kansas in 1958, going global from the 60s. “Italians may have brought pizza to the States, but America introduced it to the world,” says Diego. The River Café opened in Hammersmith in 1987, and gave Londoners a taste for wild mushroom risotto and almond cake. Founders Ruth Rogers and the late Rosie Gray are also credited with bringing the first cavolo nero seeds to Britain. More crucially, they gave us Jamie Oliver, who was a teenage sous chef at the restaurant when he was discovered by a BBC film crew in 1997. Jamie helped spread the word about Italian cooking in his ‘The Mediterranean diet is rich in seasonal fruits, vegetables, wholegrains and pulses and its health benefits add to its appeal’ ITALIAN LOVE AFFAIR Minestrone soup (main); actor and cook Stanley Tucci (right)
7 21 MARCH 2024 In my opinion ANNA SMITH I t’s nearly Piano Day! No, I didn’t know it was a thing either, but it’s celebrated on 28 March, the 88th day of the leap year, for the number of keys on a piano. Launched in 2015 by pianist and composer Nils Frahm, the day links and unites piano lovers across the globe. My love of the piano began as a toddler. My mother was very musical – she could hear a tune once, then play it by ear. She played everything from Scott Joplin’s The Entertainer to Russian folk songs, speeding up the pace with every chorus as I danced delightedly around the piano. I inherited a vastly watered down version of her talent, and could bash out a tune crudely by ear with a bit of practice. I reluctantly agreed to piano lessons from my grandmother, a teacher, in order to learn chords and read sheet music. I then ditched the books and figured out how to play the power ballad Alone by Heart, along with other 80s songs, including the theme tune to Miss Marple. I’d sing along and harmonise with my older sister, and later with any friends who could hold a tune. You can imagine my delight when karaoke hit the UK – I’d been practising for this for years. Obviously, a piano is superior to a karaoke machine. There’s something so cosy and reassuring about a good oldfashioned singalong, whether it’s in a ritzy hotel or a proper boozer. I’ve enjoyed a few piano bars in my time, and have ended up getting involved. A few years back, I went up to request Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This) by Eurythmics, only to be informed that the professional singer didn’t know it, so would I sing along with the pianist? My friend, who was at our table vaguely wondering where I went, was stunned to see me belting it out to a piano accompaniment. I recall a festival where I came upon a piano at the top of a hill in a hidden speakeasy, surrounded by people drinking from tea cups in fancy dress. It felt like a magical moment – sharing piano music in an unexpected place brought us together as strangers. And I’ve been delighted to see the growth of the pop-up version everywhere from shopping malls to railway stations, as seen in the Channel 4 TV series The Piano. I once went to meet my 20-year-old nephew at St Pancras station and burst with pride to see him playing the keys in public as he waited for me. Not just any piano, either – this one was gifted to the station by Sir Elton John, who clearly appreciates the power of the piano to unite. O ering people the gift of spontaneous music making – that’s a present worthy of Piano Day. See pianoday.org. Anna hosts Girls On Film, available on all podcast platforms. @annasmithjourno ‘It felt like a magical moment – sharing piano music in an unexpected place brought us together as strangers’ subsequent books and TV shows. “His love of Italian food became infectious,” says Diego. As a result, by the start of the 21st century, Brits had developed a taste for cured meats, balsamic vinegar and parmesan. Today, besides an abundance of Italian ingredients in shops, Britain boasts countless Italian restaurants. Diego’s favourites include London’s Brutto, Bocca di Lupo and Dear Jackie, located in the basement of the Broadwick Soho Hotel, which o ers traditional Piedmontese fondue and roast veal tonnato. Paola, meanwhile, recommends Bottega Caruso in Margate. “It reminds me of the food I enjoy when I’m back in Italy,” she says. Elsewhere, Caldesi in Campagna in Bray, Berkshire, has been called ‘Tuscany on Thames’. Other highly rated spots include outlets by Angela Hartnett (Murano London, Cafe Murano and Hartnett Holder & Co at the Lime Wood Hotel, Hampshire), and Edinburgh’s Locanda de Gusti, run by chef Rosario Sartore. From Amalfi lemons to Tuscan kale, buckwheat to spelt and borlotti beans to green lentils, the Mediterranean diet is rich in seasonal fruits, vegetables, wholegrains and pulses, and has garnered attention for its health benefits over the years, adding to its appeal. “Embracing this style of cooking changed my life – giving me more energy, increased concentration and better sleep,” says Paola. “Cooking as Italians do is a beautiful way to love yourself and those around you.” Now that’s amore. Si Mangia by Mattia Risaliti Translated as ‘let’s eat’, this delightful book is full of Tuscan recipes for staples such as stu ed artichokes and ricotta dumplings. Gennaro’s Verdure by Gennaro Contaldo The don of Italian cooking transforms humble vegetables into delicious meals such as asparagus carbonara and chard calzone. At Nonna’s Table by Paola Bacchia From hearty aubergine stew to indulgent orange cake, this book is a treasure trove of traditional and contemporary Italian o erings. Wild Figs and Fennel by Letitia Clark The celebrated writer serves up simple recipes which use seasonal ingredients – from sausage lasagne to pumpkin gnocchi (out on 25 April). COOK ITALIAN AT HOME FLAVOUR FRENZY Clockwise from below: Jamie Oliver, Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray in 2004; Soho’s Bar Italia in 1958 (right); Dear Jackie’s homemade pasta; the Lina Stores deli counter The film critic and broadcaster has her say Photographs: Stockfood, Shutterstock, Getty Images
8 21 MARCH 2024 SAVE 1/3 Waitrose & Partners British Lamb Whole Leg/Half Leg SAVE 1/3 £10.36/kg (was £15.55); £10.83/kg (was £16.25) Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability. BEST OF BRITISH Easter calls for the GOOD stu , so make it a roast to remember with tender, avoursome lamb from Waitrose – it’s 100% British, always higher welfare and from grass and forage-fed animals. O er ends 2 April Easter delivered Delivery slots for Easter week (25-30 March) are available. Book now to guarantee that essentials and treats are delivered to your door ahead of the Easter bunny.
9 21 MARCH 2024 News&Views PAINTING THE TOWN Saturating the streets in colour as powder and water is thrown with joyful abandon, the Hindu festival of Holi (25 March) welcomes spring and celebrates the triumph of good over evil and the devotion of deities Radha and Krishna. Along with Hindus worldwide, around 20,000 people will celebrate the festival in the neighbouring twin towns of Barsana and Nandgaon in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh (above). The big picture Photographs: shutterstock
10 21 MARCH 2024 News&Views How does Wunmi Mosaku feel about being one of the world’s most exciting and in-demand screen talents? “Terrified,” laughs the Bafta-winning actor, who in recent years has bounced between prestigious projects as diverse as Marvel’s Loki, HBO’s Lovecraft Country and David Simon’s spiritual sequel to The Wire, We Own This City. “With every job, I feel as nervous – if not more nervous – than the last. I don’t feel like my head’s in the clouds. There’s no part of me that’s like: ‘Yeah, I’ve got this.’ I feel like I have to do the work.” Wunmi’s latest role, starring in ITV’s darkly unsettling horror-thriller Passenger, is a case in point. “This was my first time leading a TV show,” she says. “That was a huge feat for me, stamina-wise… being on set every day, learning my lines, but also being there for the cast and crew and being an advocate for them, which is something I learned from Tom [Hiddleston] on Loki. I feel like that took a lot of energy I hadn’t quite fully used before. But every job feels new and big and scary and thrilling.” The first script from Broadchurch star Andrew Buchan, Passenger is set in the remote northern town of Chadder Vale, where a series of inexplicable events piques the interest of Wunmi’s Riya Ajunwa, a former Met Police detective now reduced to investigating stolen wheelie bins and ‘a cat with a cough’. As girls begin to vanish, then suddenly reappear, the bodies of eviscerated stags turn the snowy forests red and a local seer mutters dark portents about giants and stopped clocks, Riya has to fight to convince the suspicious townsfolk that something unnatural is stirring in their midst. “It’s an amazing first script – Andy’s such a good writer,” says Wunmi. “I’m dyslexic, so I find reading laborious, but I had fun reading this, which is always a sign that a project’s good.” The role was partly written with her in mind, she reveals. “Andy told me a while back about this project he was writing and I was telling him about the boxing training I was doing. He went: ‘Oh, I didn’t realise this, but I think I’m actually writing this for you.’” (Hence Riya being as formidable in the boxing ring as she is in a police interview room.) The show’s idiosyncratic mash of genres is probably best summed up as SUCCESS TO From Manchester to LA, Wunmi Mosaku tells Paul Kirkley about her acting journey – and staying connected to her Nigerian heritage ROOTS
11 21 MARCH 2024 Photographs: Jay Brooks / Camera Press
12 21 MARCH 2024 News&Views True Detective meets Happy Valley meets Twin Peaks meets Stranger Things meets The Wicker Man. Have we missed anything? “No, I love it, it’s perfect,” smiles Wunmi. “All of that is what appealed to me. It feels so unique – so normal and small towny in some ways, but also really big, bold and bizarre. Every character in the show has a purpose and a story within the story.” It’s not the 37-year-old’s first horror rodeo, having starred in two projects – Lovecraft Country and His House, for which she won best actress at the 2020 British Independent Film Awards – that used the genre to explore racism and othering. Although she’s not convinced that Passenger qualifies as horror. “I think of it as a thriller,” she says. “I can see why you might feel it’s horror – there’s definitely something bubbling. But I’d describe it as being about the unnatural, rather than the supernatural.” Wunmi is talking from her home in Los Angeles, where she moved a few years ago with her American husband, whose identity she keeps under wraps. But Passenger o ered a welcome excuse to return to the north of England, where she grew up in the Manchester suburb of Chorlton-cum-Hardy, having arrived with her parents from Nigeria as a baby. “It was so nice to be home,” she says. “I stayed in Manchester and travelled to filming every day in Cornholme [a village just over the Yorkshire border]. It was such a privilege to be able to use my own accent.” The heavy snow that forms a key part of the series’ chilly aesthetic is also a striking contrast to the LA sunshine. “It was fake snow – although there were a couple of random times when it snowed for real on days when we didn’t need it to,” says Wunmi. “But it felt authentic. Especially going into the forest – you felt like you were walking into Narnia. I swear it actually felt colder when you stepped onto the set. You’d start shivering, like you were in a di erent world.” That said, Riya’s salty humour and northern grit could probably melt the snow at a glance. There is, suggests Weekend, more than a hint of Happy Valley’s Catherine Cawood in this blunt-speaking northern sheri . “I felt that, too,” nods Wunmi. “Sarah Lancashire is someone I really look up to, and I did think about what made her so attractive to the audience. You can’t quite take your eyes o her.” By coincidence, it was Andrew Buchan who presented Wunmi her with her 2017 best supporting actress TV Bafta for her performance as Gloria Taylor in the BBC film Damilola, Our Loved Boy. “Andy will always have a sweet spot in my heart for that moment,” she says. But the night Photographs: ©Marvel Studios 2021. All Rights Reserved, Shutterstock, Alamy, ITVx, Stockfood, Getty Images ONE TO WATCH Wunmi in Loki (below); as Ruby Baptiste in Lovecraft Country (below middle); with Idris Elba in Luther (bottom) NORTH STAR Wunmi in Passenger (main); with her Bafta for Damilola, Our Loved Boy
13 21 MARCH 2024 FOOD BITES itself was a ‘bittersweet’ experience, she adds, in which her professional triumph was necessarily tempered by the very real tragedy behind the film – the fatal stabbing of 10-yearold Damilola Taylor, three months after he’d arrived in London from Nigeria in 2000. “We were all there together – [Damilola’s father] Richard Taylor, his brother Tunde – and it was overwhelming,” she recalls of the ceremony. “We poured everything we had into that film, because how could you not? You want to honour Damilola, you want to honour Gloria [his mother, who died in 2008]. You want to make sure that the project changes people’s hearts – and reminds us that we’re a community, and all of these children are ours.” Wunmi was just one year old when her parents brought her from Zaria, Nigeria, to England in 1987. “My first memory is my home in Nigeria,” she says. “Though I went back when I was three, when my grandma died, so I suppose those memories could have been from that trip.” Her parents, who were both professors, were forced to prove themselves all over again in their new country. “England in the 80s was not easy for any immigrant,” says Wunmi, who has two sisters. “And I would say it’s still not the easiest place. I feel like my parents really struggled. They struggled to get jobs because of… I’m just going to say it, racism. My mum basically had to start from the bottom, doing all the jobs that someone who’d been a chemistry professor in Nigeria didn’t need to do – pot washing, care work, supply teacher. Everything, just in order to put food on the table. It was a lot. “My dad went back to Nigeria and had his career [after her parents separated], and my mum decided to stay – for our education, and also because things were di cult, politically, in Nigeria at the time. It was hard. But we had an amazing church community at Union Hall [Evangelical Church] in Manchester. They really supported us with childcare, with clothing – I call them my God sisters. Even though we weren’t living together, we felt like one household, which made things easier. Talking to my mum now, as an adult, I’m like: ‘How did you do that?’”, she says. “But I also have an understanding of why my dad felt: ‘I must go back. Because I deserve more.’” Since lockdown, Wunmi has been relearning Yoruba – the mother tongue she lost as a child after her parents were told to stop speaking it in the house. (Her teachers, who didn’t know she was dyslexic, thought it might be a ecting her ability to read English.) “It’s so important to me,” she says. “And it’s so important to the next generation. There’s this pressure to assimilate and try to fit in. That sometimes comes at a cost for the children of immigrants, in that you kind of lose touch with the motherland. Sometimes it feels like you’re a tree without all the roots. You’re kind of balancing on the soil – you know where you’re from and you have the roots of your parents, and maybe a couple of grandparents, but not your whole culture. So sometimes, in the wind, you feel a little unstable.” Singing with the Manchester Girls Choir for more than a decade helped foster the young Oluwunmi Mosaku’s love of performing, diverting her from her original career plan to become a maths professor. With no idea how to go about becoming an actor, she simply googled the cast of her favourite film, Annie. “I saw that Daddy Warbucks [Albert Finney] was from Salford, Manchester, and had been to Rada. I didn’t know drama schools existed back then. I didn’t know it was a thing.” Her family could only a ord to pay for one audition. “I had one chance and that was it. I got the Megabus down to London and auditioned for Rada. I had a terrible moment in my last round, because I’m dyslexic and we had to sight-read Shakespeare. I still get a cold sweat thinking about that moment. But I did my best.” In fact, she smashed it, and since graduating from Rada in 2007, has worked fairly solidly across stage, film and television, from roles in blockbusters Batman v Superman and Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them to a two-series stint in Vera (look out for an in-joke about that in Passenger) and a shift as Idris Elba’s sidekick in Luther. In the US, her role as ‘badass’ time agent Hunter B-15 in Loki – originally written as a male character, but changed after another aced audition – means Wunmi has now been immortalised in plastic as a Funko Pop! figure. “My godson gave me one of those for Christmas,” she says. “It’s really cool. Fortunately, it doesn’t really look like me, so it isn’t too weird.” From fantasy to grim reality, her next project, We Own This City, saw screenwriter David Simon turning his attention to the streets of Baltimore for the first time since The Wire – regularly cited by critics as the greatest TV series ever made. “It’s funny, I’d just started watching The Wire – I think I’d watched two episodes when I got the phone call saying: ‘You’ve got the audition for We Own This City,’” recalls Wunmi, who played civil rights attorney Nicole Steele. “I was like: ‘You know what? I’m going to stop watching this, otherwise I’m going to walk into that room feeling really nervous.’ I didn’t want to go in there putting them on a pedestal. That’s how I try to walk into rooms – like we’re all on the same level and we’re all meant to be there.” Despite her Stateside success, there appears to be no danger of the girl from Zaria via Chorltoncum-Hardy going too La-La Land on us. “Absolutely not,” she insists. “I find America overwhelming and interesting and bizarre. But this is where I call home for now. “I do miss the UK,” she adds. “I miss my family and friends. But I always have some Yorkshire Gold tea, and rich tea and ginger biscuits on hand,” she grins. “Just for those moments when it gets too hard.” Passenger starts on Sunday (24 March) at 9pm on ITV1 and ITVX What British food do you miss in LA? Crumpets, good Cheddar, Maltesers. And I love Soreen [malt loaf]. I buy it in bulk and freeze it. Favourite restaurant? Zeret Kitchen in Camberwell [south London]. They do amazing Ethiopian food. That’s my rst port of call when I get back to London. I recommend the Zeret surprise sharing platter. What did you have for breakfast? I had akara, a Nigerian dish made with black-eyed beans. I can cook Nigerian food, but I was in Nigeria recently, and there were so many dishes I’d never even heard of. I can cook what my mum used to cook me, basically. What’s mum’s speciality? When I’m home she always makes egusi soup, or okra stew. I normally have that with eba. That’s my go-to if I’m home. It makes me happy. ‘There’s pressure to try to fit in. That sometimes comes at a cost for the children of immigrants – you kind of lose touch with the motherland’ BREAKFAST TREAT Nigerian akara
IT’S BACK! % OFF 25 WINE & CHAMPAGNE PRICED £6 OR OVER 6 BOTTLES OR MORE Fill up your wine rack – this o er is too GOOD to miss. Save 25% when you buy any 6 bottles or more of wine and Champagne priced at £6 or over Save 25% on prices shown when you buy six bottles or more priced at £6 or over. Excludes bottles priced £100 and over. O er ends 2 April. Selected stores. Subject to availability. Excludes Scotland, Wales and Jersey. Prices may vary in Little Waitrose and concessions. Excludes motorway service stations, Welcome Break and petrol stations. Vintage may vary. Must be 18+ to purchase alcohol. Drink responsibly – see waitrose.com/alcohol. SHOP NOW AT WAITROSECELLAR.COM
15 21 MARCH 2024 Food&Drink ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor There are some traditions in my family that cannot be broken, and lamb on Easter Sunday is one of them. I can just imagine the disappointed faces around the table if I served anything else! But I like to give traditions a little twist every so often, and this week’s Easter menu hits the right balance. It’s roast lamb, cooked with garlic and herbs to give it a Mediterranean feel, and served with a cavolo nero gratin that’s a nice change from the classic trimmings. If you’re sticking with tradition, nd all the recipes you need at waitrose.com. Have a delicious Easter! What’s For Dinner? p16 Meal Maths p21 Too Good To Waste with Elly Curshen p23 The Best with Martha Collison p24 Easter Menu p27 Very Important Producer p32 Wine List with Pierpaolo Petrassi MW p34 Photographs: Hannah Hughes, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Wei Tang, Art direction: Corrie Heale TURNING HEADS Rhubarb, rose & pistachio pavlova rounds o an Easter menu with a di erence, p27
16 21 MARCH 2024 Recipes: Rebecca Woollard, Photographs: Kate Whitaker, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Max Robinson, Art direction: Pippa Paine What’s for dinner? Take the stress out of midweek meal planning with these quick, easy and delicious dishes
17 21 MARCH 2024 Food&Drink S C A N T HI S CODE F OR MOR E R E CI P E S Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 50 minutes 2 tsp olive oil 1kg pack Essential British Chicken Thighs 750g pack baby new potatoes 180g pot green olives with herbes de Provence 2 lemons, juice of 1, the other in wedges 150g pack wild rocket, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 200°C, gas mark 6. Drizzle the oil over a large baking tray. Season both sides of the chicken thighs with salt, then lay, skin-side up, on the tray. Scatter the potatoes all around the chicken and roll to coat in the oil. Season with salt and roast for 30 minutes. 2 Turn the potatoes and press down with a sturdy spatula to split the skins. Roll them around again to coat in the chicken juices, then add the olives to the tray with the dressing from the pot. 3 Return to the oven for 20 minutes more, until the thighs are crisp and the chicken is cooked through with no pink meat and juices that run clear, and the potatoes caramelised. 4 Drizzle the juice of 1 lemon over the top, then divide the chicken and potatoes between plates. Serve with the rocket and extra lemon wedges for squeezing. Per serving 2912kJ/698kcals/40g fat/8.8g saturated fat/ 29g carbs/2.1g sugars/5.2g bre/52g protein/1.7g salt Roast chicken thighs with green olives & smashed potatoes Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes + defrosting Cook 30 minutes 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus a little extra for drizzling 1 bulb fennel, nely sliced, any fronds reserved for garnishing 1 large clove garlic, crushed 500ml pouch Cooks’ Ingredients Chicken Stock, or use a stock pot 250g pack Essential Cherry Tomatoes 400g can Essential Butter Beans In Water, drained and rinsed 250g pack frozen Essential Raw King Prawns, defrosted 1 unwaxed lemon, zest Pinch chilli akes, to serve (optional) 1 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying or sauté pan over a medium-high heat, then add the fennel. Fry, stirring often, for 6-7 minutes until the fennel is softening and a little golden. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes more. 2 Stir in the stock, tomatoes and butter beans, bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3 Add the prawns to the pan, then simmer for 3-4 minutes more until cooked through, pink and opaque. Season to taste. 4 Divide the stew between bowls and scatter over the lemon zest. Finish with some black pepper and the fennel fronds, chilli akes (if using), and a drizzle of olive oil. Per serving 1656kJ/394kcals/8.5g fat/1.4g saturated fat/24g carbs/8.9g sugars/14g bre/49g protein/1.3g salt/ 3 of your 5 a day/gluten free King prawn, fennel & butter bean stew COOK’S TIP Instead of prawns, you could also use white sh, such as cod llet, cut into chunky pieces. Simmer until opaque and it akes easily with a fork. COOK’S TIP For a twist, use a 190g pot Kalamata olives with garlic & chilli. Or if you’re not keen on olives, then sliced artichoke hearts marinated in garlic and parsley would be a great swap. Use some of the oil from a 280g jar to rst cook the chicken and potatoes, then add the drained artichokes in step 2. WINNING WAYS WITH LEFTOVERS It’s Food Waste Action Week until Sunday (24 March), and if you need more inspiration for using up leftover ingredients, see Elly Curshen’s recipe (p23) or scan the QR code for meal ideas using leftovers.
19 21 MARCH 2024 Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes + marinating Cook 15 minutes 3 tbsp tikka masala paste 226g pack paneer, cut into 10 cubes 2 tsp olive oil, plus 1 tsp to drizzle ½ red onion, nely sliced 4 tsp red wine vinegar 1 Essential Little Gem, quartered, then pulled apart 1 cucumber, deseeded and cut into chunks ⅔ x 25g pack mint, leaves picked ½ x 260g pack plain tandoori naans 1 Mix the tikka masala paste with the paneer and 2 tsp olive oil until well coated. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Mix the onion with 2 tsp red wine vinegar and a pinch of salt, massage everything together a little, then set aside to marinate, tossing occasionally, until softened. 2 Once the cheese has marinated, turn the grill to high, transfer it to a foil-lined baking tray and grill for 10-12 minutes, turning occasionally, until piping hot inside, charred and crisp on the outside. 3 Meanwhile, mix the lettuce, cucumber and mint together, then add the onions with their marinade, the remaining 1 tsp oil and remaining vinegar. 4 Warm the naans under the grill according to pack instructions. Divide the salad between plates, top with the paneer and serve with the naans on the side. V Per serving 3065kJ/735kcals/46g fat/21g saturated fat/ 45g carbs/11g sugars/5.9g bre/33g protein/3.5g salt Tikka paneer salad with pink onions & naan Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 200g low fat Greek-style yogurt 400g No.1 Fusilloni 500g pack lamb mince 3 cloves garlic, crushed 4 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Rose Harissa Paste 40g unsalted butter 1 lemon, juice 2 tbsp pine nut kernels, toasted 1 Measure the yogurt into a bowl, then let it come nearer to room temperature as you boil the pasta in plenty of salted water, according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, add the lamb mince to a large, hot frying pan and fry for 5-6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until starting to colour and any liquid has bubbled o . Pour o most of the fat. 2 Stir in ⅔ of the garlic and 2 tbsp harissa, then fry for 3-4 minutes more, scraping in any bits that start to catch at the bottom. The lamb should be thoroughly cooked with no pink meat. Season to taste and set aside. Mix the remaining garlic with the yogurt and set aside. 3 Once the fusilloni is just tender, drain and reserve about 150ml pasta water. Tip the pasta and reserved water back into the pan and add the lamb mince. Stir over a medium-high heat for a couple of minutes, until the water has almost completely reduced. 4 Melt the butter in the lamb pan with the remaining harissa and the lemon juice. Divide the pasta between bowls, then drizzle over some yogurt, harissa butter and pine nuts. Per serving 3241kJ/774kcals/39g fat/18g saturated fat/ 69g carbs/6.2g sugars/2.8g bre/36g protein/1g salt Turkish-style lamb pasta with pine nuts & harissa butter COOK’S TIP Fusilloni is a twisted pasta shape with deep furrows for gripping the lamb sauce, although you can use regular fusilli twists too. COOK’S TIP Swap the paneer for chopped, skinless, boneless chicken thighs, if liked. Use 2 thighs per person and 4 tbsp curry paste. Grill as in step 2, until the chicken is cooked through, with no pink meat and the juices run clear.
20 21 MARCH 2024 Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability. Take a journey of discovery through the range of soft, pillowy hot cross buns at Waitrose this Easter. You’ll nd classics and uncover new favourites – and selected items are 2 FOR £2.50 until 10 April Blueberry Hot Cross Buns £1.85/4s or 2 FOR £2.50 Studded with dried blueberries and a hint of sweet vanilla. St Clements Hot Cross Buns £1.85/4s or 2 FOR £2.50 With soaked sultanas, orange and lemon zest and orange peel. Richly Fruited Hot Cross Buns £1.85/4s or 2 FOR £2.50 Packed with soaked sultanas, Chilean ame raisins and citrus peel. Bun VOYAGE C B NEW OFFER
21 21 MARCH 2024 Food&Drink Fresh tagliatelle No.1 Woodland Mushrooms British Beef Thin Cut Sirloin Steak Peppercorn sauce Serves 2 Ready in 15 minutes Boil 250g pasta (the rest freezes well), according to pack instructions. Drain, reserving a cup of the pasta water. Tear the mushrooms into even-sized pieces. Sear in a little oil in a large frying pan for 5 minutes, keeping the heat high, until golden. Season, then move to a plate. Rub the steak with oil, season and sear for 1 minute on each side, until browned all over but still pink inside. Set aside to rest with the mushrooms. Heat the peppercorn sauce in the pan, then add the pasta, a splash of pasta water and the mushrooms until well-coated. Slice the steak across the grain, adding any juices to the pasta pan. Serve the pasta topped with the steak. Good with parsley or tarragon, if you have some. Peppered steak & mushroom tagliatelle Scan the QR code below or go to waitrose.com/recipes for more quick and simple Meal Maths recipes like this one. Using no more than ve timesaving ingredients, you can create delicious midweek suppers or family meals easily. MORE INSPIRATION Photographs: Kate Whitaker, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Max Robinson, Art direction: Pippa Paine
T&Cs: Selected postcodes. Subject to availability. Vase not included. Flowers and plants may arrive in bud to prolong their life. We deliver Monday-Sunday, excluding bank holidays. See waitrose orist.com for full terms and conditions. WAITROSEFLORIST.COM BRILLIANT BOUQUETS Capture the pretty oral sights and scents of the season with an exclusively designed, hand-tied bouquet or plant from Waitrose Florist. We deliver seven days a week, with next-day delivery available
23 21 MARCH 2024 Food&Drink S C A N T HI S CODE F OR MOR E R E CI P E S Serves 8 Prepare 30 minutes + cooling Cook 30 minutes A little oil or butter, for greasing 140g plain our, plus extra for the tin 6 No.1 Longstock Gold Free Range Eggs, at room temperature 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 170g golden caster sugar ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp ne salt ½ unwaxed lemon, zest (optional) Icing sugar, for dusting Whipped cream or Greek yogurt, to serve (optional) Fresh fruit or fruit compote, to serve (optional) Portuguese-style sponge cake This sponge is inspired by the classic Portuguese cake pão de ló. It uses lots of whole eggs (no separating!) and no butter or oil. Most traditional recipes contain just eggs (sometimes whole plus extra yolks), flour and sugar. They are often served with a purposely sunken middle and a centre that’s a bit runny and gooey. But this is not like a traditional pão de ló – it’s a light-textured and flu y sponge. No extra fat is added but I have included a little baking powder to help with consistent results. I scented my sponge with vanilla and lemon, but feel free to use one or the other, both or neither. This plain base cake can be served in all sorts of ways. Although it’s not very sweet, it doesn’t need icing (but add one if liked – chocolate buttercream would be great) and can be served Italian breakfast style with an espresso. Or serve with a dusting of icing sugar, lightly whipped cream and fresh fruit or a quick compote. @ellypear WHOLE EGGS Too good to waste with Elly Curshen 1 Prepare the tin (do this while the eggs are whisking if you have a stand mixer). Lightly grease a 23cm round cake tin, at least 6cm deep. Add a little our, turn the tin to coat, then tap out the excess. Line the bottom with a circle of baking paper. 2 Using a stand mixer with the whisk attachment (or a large bowl and electric hand mixer), beat the eggs for 5 minutes, or until thickened and lighter in colour. Add the vanilla. 3 Preheat the oven to 200°C, gas mark 6. Gradually add the sugar in a ne stream and beat for 15 minutes more, or until thick, u y and doubled in volume. Don’t whisk fast or you’ll end up with fake bubbles that de ate. Start low, then turn up to medium. Whisk until the ribbon stage, when a trail of mixture sits clearly on the surface for a couple of seconds if you lift the whisk out. 4 In a separate bowl, sift together the our and baking powder. Add the salt. Remove the egg and sugar mixture from the stand mixer. Slowly add the dry ingredients to the wet mixture in 3 or 4 stages, gently mixing in by hand with the wire whisk attachment after each addition. If using a hand mixer, remove the beaters and use one in your hand. MORE LEFTOVER IDEAS 1Toad in the hole A great way to use up a couple of eggs in a meal. Sausages are traditional, but you can also make a version using leftover roasted vegetables, baked into the batter. 2Try a frittata This is a great dish for using up lots of eggs, and all sorts of other leftovers. It will keep for 3 days covered in the fridge and can be enjoyed for breakfast, lunch or supper. For ideas, see waitrose.com/recipes. 3Freeze them If you need to use up eggs but have no immediate use for them, freezing works brilliantly. Freeze the yolks and whites separately, if desired, for exibility once defrosted. I use a silicone ice cube tray, then decant the frozen blocks into a freezerproof bag. Freeze for up to 1 month, then defrost, covered, in the fridge. 5 Add the lemon zest, if using. Don’t overmix or the batter will de ate. Pour into the prepared tin. Bake for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 180°C, gas mark 4 and bake for 20 minutes more. A skewer inserted in the centre should come out clean. 6 Turn the cake (still in its tin) upside down and place on a cooling rack for about 1 hour. This helps stop the cake from de ating. Once cool, carefully slide a small, serrated knife down the side and saw round the edge to loosen. Remove the cake from the tin and place back on the wire rack (right way around) until cold. 7 Serve with a dusting of icing sugar, whipped cream or Greek yogurt and seasonal fruit or fruit compote, if liked. It will be deep enough to split in 2 or 3 (using a gentle sawing motion with a bread knife), then layered with buttercream or cream, if liked. V Per serving (without cream) 864kJ/205kcals/4.2g fat/1.3g saturated fat/34g carbs/22g sugars/0.6g bre/ 7.5g protein/0.6g salt Photographs: Kate Whitaker, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Max Robinson, Art direction: Pippa Paine
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NDY5NzE=