Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 628

WeekendFREE Issue 628 | 8 December 2022 ACCESS ALL AREAS NewTV programme ventures behind the scenes atWaitrose p2 JOELY RICHARDSON The actor on her return to Lady Chatterley after three decades p10 FOOD FOR SHARING JohnWhaite’s festive recipes will keep your guests happy p31 OFFERS Enjoy great savings on a range of selected products p52 THE TASTE OF CHRISTMAS It’s December – so bring on the mince pies! The deliciously crumbly treats are a seasonal must-have, but which ones will you choose? See p43

2 8 DECEMBER 2022 News&Views The build-up to the festive season is always an extremely busy time for supermarkets, as a candid newprogramme aboutWaitrose reveals. Emma Higginbotham reports A CHRISTMAS LOOK BEHIND THE SCENES A MAGICAL TIME Waitrose at Christmas features (clockwise from left): Zoë Simons, festive zz, in-store displays, Patrick Okari and new food, including cheese and ’nduja pro teroles From taste-testing the Christmas food in sweltering summer heat to battling the elements to grow grapes for festive fizz, it takes months of hard work to prepare for the busiest shopping period. Now a Channel 4 special takes viewers behind closed doors as teams atWaitrose gear up for the big event, whether it’s planning the all-important Christmas advert, designing 4,000miles of recyclable wrapping paper, or ensuring that the sprouts-on-stalks arrive in good time. Called Waitrose at Christmas, the idea came about when Partner and development chef Zoë Simons, who helps dreamup the stu ng balls with amelting bread sauce centre – to getting them signed o . “We’re like the 007s of the food world,” she says. “No one knows we exist, but we are constantly thinking about Christmas. Nothing just lands up on the shelf accidentally – there’s an entire teambehind it pushing it forward, and hopefully ending up with something our customers love.” At theWaitrose design centre, Partner and point of salemanager Aisling Bourne is seen working on festive displays in July, and taking the head designer on an early autumn ‘store walk’. “Every year, we decorate a store on a Sunday night, then go in andmake sure it has the right impact,” she explains. “Christmas is a time where people come together. But that’s not true for everyone, and it’s important that a customer can go into a store and feel the Christmassymagic theymight not at home.” ForMarkWilliams, the show’s director, it’s been a ‘fascinating’ project. “There’s a natural interest to see how things are made,” he says. “And because of the cost of living crisis, it’s never beenmore important to understand the idea of getting value for money, and the journey these items have taken – whether it’s your wrapping paper or themeat on your Christmas table – from farmor factory through to the store shelves.” Inevitably, it’s not all plain sailing. “The displays aremore fiendish than flatpack furniture, and trying to get something to work in all 332 stores causes headaches,” he says. “And things that work well in the innovation kitchen don’t always work on the production line. It’s been interesting to see how the Partners react to these challenges, and work creatively to overcome them.” It’s a busy time for Partners such as Patrick Okari, a fruit and veg specialist from the Waitrose store in Bracknell. “You have a lot of work to do, but I’m inmy element,” says Patrick, who features in the show. “There’s a festivemood: the displays, the decorations – it’s magic. Everybody can tell the countdown to Christmas is here, and we want tomake it as enjoyable for our customers as we can.” “There’s definitely a passion, and I think it’s part of Waitrose being a Partnership,” concludesMark. “Everybody is invested in what they’re doing, and the care that goes into everything was eye-opening.” Waitrose at Christmas, Monday (12 December), Channel 4, 8pm festive dishes, met TV presenterMatt Baker at Countryfile Live last year. “I was doing a demonstration, and we got chatting afterwards,” recalls Zoë. “He said: ‘I’m fascinated by your role, and I think other people would be too. I’ve got a production company – do you thinkWaitrose would do a show?’ It was such an incredible opportunity to show our customers what we do, and the care we put into our products.” Filming began in early summer, with Zoë and her two fellow development chefs followed as they went frompresenting their tasty new ideas – including cheese and ’nduja profiteroles, and pork, sage and onion Cover Photographs: Maryna Terletska/ Getty Images

3 8 DECEMBER 2022 G O O D N E W S I N B R I E F Morris dancing! Mummers’ plays! Mince pies! This month, after a twoyear hiatus, communities will finally gather for some traditional festive merriment – or mischief. All manner of ‘dice-players and unthrifty folk’ are welcomed to York as part of a 600-year-old Yule Riding ritual. On the eve of the winter solstice (21 December), the city’s sheri will parade through the streets, proclaiming that ru ans may enter for the 12 days of Yule, whilemedieval-style band The YorkWaits strike up a cheery tune. Ancient traditions in Penzance, Cornwall, see TheMontol Festival, a six-day extravaganza, culminate in a traditional ‘guise dance’ on the solstice, when revellers don disguises andmakemerry in the streets. Brighton residents will gather on 21 December for the annual Burning the Clocks. Paper lanterns are paraded through the city, then cast onto a bonfire on the beach, in a ritual said to O come all ye playful The average household could save around £112 a year by resetting their combination boiler water flow temperature to 60°C. Most homes set the flow at between 75°C and 80°C but, according to research by innovation charity Nesta, reducing the flowwill help improve energy efficiency and cut costs. 60°C A SONG FOR PEACE More than 30,000members of Rock Choir will put on a special version of Carol of the Bells, a traditional Ukrainian folk song, to raisemoney for the country at Christmas. Singers from the amateur choir’s 400 locations across the UK have been practising ahead of fundraising performances in their local communities. The track is dedicated to all the Ukrainian families spending Christmas apart from their loved ones. “The song was created to portray a glimpse of happiness and peace,” says Caroline Redman Lusher, Rock Choir’s creative director. “This sentiment resonates profoundly todaymore than ever, given the huge emotional turmoil the Ukrainian people are experiencing.” Caroline founded Rock Choir in 2005 as an alternative to traditional choral groups. Its members, whomeet weekly, have raisedmore than £50,000 for Ukraine this year through charity events and concerts. EmmaHigginbotham FESTIVE TRADITIONS Burning the Clocks in Brighton (top); York’s sheri (right) symbolise the death of the old year and birth of the new. Residents of Mousehole, Cornwall, celebrate TomBawcock’s Eve on 23 December. The feast day commemorates the eponymous local, who, according to legend, braved stormy seas to haul in fish during a famine. Lanterns are carried through the village, and ‘starry gazey pie’ (made fromfish, egg and potato) is served in his honour. On Christmas Evemorning, the Poor Owd ‘Oss, a performer dressed as a deceased horse, will gallop into the marketplace at Richmond, North Yorkshire – accompanied by a group of harmonious huntsmen, who will resurrect himwith a special song. Said to bring luck to those who see him, he will certainly provide lots of laughter, too. Lizzie Briggs This week’s uplifting stories fromAnna-Marie Julyan Dress to the nines A sense of sophisticated party spirit imbues Bridesmaids director Paul Feig’s new book Cocktail Time! The Ultimate Guide to Grown-up Fun. You don’t have to drink alcohol to partake in his ‘cocktail lifestyle’ – it’s all about putting on your best clothes, being with friends and great conversations. He shares tips on everything from glassware to music and party-planning, as well as 120 cocktail recipes and Hollywood stories. Cosmic ambitions British Paralympic sprinter John McFall, 41, has become the world’s rst disabled astronaut after being selected by the European Space Agency (ESA). John, who lost his leg in a motorcycle accident aged 19, is one of 17 recruits among the ESA’s rst new batch of astronauts in 13 years. More than 22,000 people applied. He’ll take part in research via the Parastronaut Feasibility Project, with the aim of one day travelling into space. Puttingwomen in the picture History student Katy Hessel asked herself “Where are all the women?” after visiting an art fair where not one work was by a female artist. After realising she couldn’t name 20 female artists, she launched @thegreatwomenartists on Instagram. Her book The Story of Art Without Men, which shows how women achieved artistic excellence against the odds, has now won the 2022 Waterstones Book of the Year. Alzheimer’s breakthrough The discovery of the rst drug capable of slowing Alzheimer’s disease is ‘a historic moment’, says charity Alzheimer’s Research UK. Lecanemab clears the amyloid protein that builds up in the brains of people with the disease. Although the bene ts were small, there are side e ects and it must be used in the early stages, Lecanemab is the rst success after decades of failure, o ering hope for future treatments. Photographs: Channel 4, Toby Scott, Simon Dack/Same Sky, Alamy Stock Photo, Haarala Hamilton

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5 8 DECEMBER 2022 News&Views Sustainable living Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart Photography: Issy Croker, Getty Images Renting a Christmas tree is an excellent idea – water it, keep it alive, then return it to the soil to continue absorbing CO2. The trend is gatheringmomentum in the UK, with some folk renting the same spruce each year. I discovered late last month that all the trees at our local rental company (christmasonthehill.co.uk) were reserved by other eco-minded households. There was the option to drive to Gloucestershire to pick one up from rentalclaus.com, but I wasn’t sure the carbonmaths made sense. This leaves us choosing between a real or artificial tree. My proposal to decorate our large indoor cheese plant went down as well as the suggestion that Santa have a year o . The debate about whether real or artificial trees have a bigger eco impact is complex, with no clear winner. The Carbon Trust says a two-metre tall artificial tree produces 40kg of CO2, compared to a similar-sized real one, with no roots, that creates 3.5kg. If a real tree goes to landfill, its footprint increases to 16kg. It will also producemethane, amore potent greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide, but most councils collect and shred trees to make chippings for green spaces. If we had invested in an artificial tree, I would bring it out each year [a portion of sales from those sold by John Lewis this year goes to planting real ones at Leckford Estate]. But we’re suckers for that pine smell, so I’m following John Lewis climatemanager Jacqui Machin’s advice to “pick whichever tree will give you themerriest Christmas”. ANNA SHEPARD Week 45: The tree debate THE RESTAURANT THAT GROWS ITS OWN MENU December is busy atWilsons restaurant and bakery in Bristol – but the 15-strong teamaren’t just servingmeals. They’re also growing, picking, preserving and storing produce ahead of the winter ‘hunger gap’ fromJanuary toMarch, now that all the fruit, veg and herbs come from its own two-acre plot, sevenmiles away. This reversal in how themodern restaurant kitchen typically operates, means the farm– rather than the chef – dictates the menu. It comes with di culties – deer had a go at the fruit, so locally sourced boxes of quince and apples are welcomed – but has led to greater creativity, says cofounder and head chef Jan Ostle. “Our menu changes every day and is based on what we have coming out of the ground,” explains Jan. “Rather than letting the meat determine what we’re going to cook, we let the vegetables decide. We’re committed to doing it on a scale for the full menu.” This festive season the restaurant – awarded aMichelin Green Star for its sustainable practices – will o er roasted pheasant with Tokyo turnips and sourdough bread sauce, and a pudding of celeriac ice creamwith fermented honey andWiltshire tru e. Other dishes include bitter red radicchio leaves alongside duck liver parfait and last year’s raspberry vinegar, and ichi kuri squash cooked in lobster oil or beetroot, slowly cooked in foaming butter until ‘fudgy’ to accompany beurre noisette hollandaise and cod. It took three years to get to this point and for the smallholding investment to pay o , but as Jan adds, the shift is needed. “It’s not always easy coming up with 19 di erent dishes using kale for instance, but that’s part of the joy. We’re living at a time when everything is changing, and we have to change as well.” Anna-Marie Julyan Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without mention of gold, frankincense andmyrrh, the iconic gifts brought to the Bethlehem stable by the three wisemen. But how do these precious goods compare today? “Theories abound as to the significance of these gifts, but they are typically given to honour a king or god in the ancient world – gold as a precious metal and trading commodity, frankincense as a perfume, andmyrrh as an anointing oil,” explains Shehbaz Khan fromThe Frankincense Store in London’s Notting Hill. Time has proved the wisdomof the wisemen’s choices. Gold, at around £1,500 an ounce, continues to hold its value, and as well as being used in jewellery, has many uses in technology. “It is an important element in mobile phones,” says Shehbaz. Frankincense, derived from the sap of the boswellia species of trees, remains highly valued too, at £200-£300 a kilo. Still used as incense, it’s renowned for its calming aroma and healing properties and has been used as an ingredient in cosmetics, chocolate and even cocktails. Myrrh, at £350-£400 a kilo, is produced from the sap of small thorny trees belonging to the species commiphora and is still used in perfume, incense and for religious ceremonies. It is thought to have anti-inflammatory properties. And so, as nativity plays take place across the country this month, young stars of the show can rest assured that the gifts still hold currency. “The value of gold continues to be timeless, while the greatest gift you can give to someone is health, so why not frankincense andmyrrh, too?” says Shehbaz. Jane Garton Gifts fit for a king still holding currency FARM TO FORK Head chef Jan Ostle and cofounder Mary Wilson (below left); part of the two-acre Wilsons kitchen garden (below); the restaurant interior (bottom) WISE CHOICE Frankincense (right) has a calm aroma and healing properties

6 8 DECEMBER 2022 News&Views A family trip to London Giuseppe Dell’Anno, winner of The Great British Bake O 2021 Although we go all out with decorations and stick to canonical traditions, we’ve also established a new one over the years. On the first day of school break, the whole family hops on the train to London – we live in Bath. First, we stop at the Natural HistoryMuseum– according tomy children, nothing screams Christmas more than dinosaurs. Then we all go to a department store to pick two or three new baubles for our Christmas tree. With homemade sandwiches for lunch, it’s a great way to creatememories together. Italian Bakes (Quadrille) is out now A lido swim Fi Glover, radio presenter andWeekend columnist I couldn’t get through Christmas, with its excess and noise and tinsel and pork products, without at some point sliding into chilly water. Although I love thosemoments when family and friends are all bunched up together in a fug of love – or something approaching it – I always yearn for a tiny bit of sheer silence during those festive days. Diving under a bit of water at my local lido is my escape. Until the next pig in a blanket comes along… Prizes for Christmas Nick Grimshaw, DJ, presenter and cohost ofWaitrose podcast Dish Whenmy niece Liv was about four, she said: “Oh, I love all my prizes,” on seeing her presents. The entire family now refers to Christmas presents as prizes. We say: “Ooh, congratulations on your prizes,” as if we’ve all won. ATrinidadian feast Danny Sriskandarajah, CEO of OxfamGB My wife is Trinidadian and Christmas is a big deal in her family. Trinidad’s diversitymeans the food is truly global. Some of my favourites are pastelles (a cornmeal pie originating from indigenous tribes), ponche de crème (spiced eggnog) andmacaroni pie (who knew Italian pasta would go so well with pigeon peas and a leafy green vegetable called callaloo?). That said, it’s my daughter who gets the celebrations started in our house. She puts on her Christmas earrings and starts blasting Mariah Carey fromher bedroom in October. Aveggie centrepiece Rukmini Iyer, author of The Roasting Tin cookbooks As my family is vegetarian, we do all the trimmings (Delia’s roast potatoes, Heston’s glazed carrots, my roasted sprouts with feta and pumpkin seeds), but every year we pick a di erent veggie centrepiece. It’s a ritual –Mumgets the Christmas foodmagazines, we narrow down a shortlist, then pick one. We’ve hadmushroom Wellingtons, twice-baked cheese sou és and roulades. We’ve also had complex Ottolenghi dishes – this year, we’re planning something from Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Extra Good Things, although I’mhoping my sister will take charge, as I have a baby!” India Express (Square Peg) is out now Presents, but first lunch Jeremy Vine, BBCRadio 2 presenter and Channel 5 host It sounds shocking, but we don’t open any gifts until after Christmas lunch. Even now, this seems crazy tome, but it’s something that started when I was a kid. It makes the post-lunch moment more special. I can’t believe wemanaged to hold our kids back from the tree when they were five In focus Embracing the festive season doesn’t have tomean the same turkey and tinsel routine – it can also be about creating new rituals. Anna Shepard discovers some of the less conventional ways others celebrate at this time of year CHRISTMAS JUST AS WE LIKE IT

7 8 DECEMBER 2022 and eight, but now they’re 15 and 18, they buy into it. Lunch, then gifts! Greenery instead of a tree Claire Ratinon, author and organic gardener Sincemoving out of London, we finally have enough space for a Christmas tree, but the practice of cutting one down, only to leave it on the pavement to die in the NewYear, has never made sense tome. My partner and I have created a new tradition of making a ‘tree’ of sorts by constructing a triangle structure fromhazel or beech sticks, which we decorate using evergreen and shrub clippings, gathered when tidying the garden. It’s pretty haphazard and di erent every year, but what it lacks in elegance, it makes up for in character. Adip in the sea David Baddiel, comedian and author My wifeMorwenna is Cornish, and for years we’ve gone to stay in a little Cornish village for Christmas. On Christmas Day, the whole village goes for a charity swim in the sea at noon. You’re supposed to go in without a wetsuit and sing at least one verse of WeWish You aMerry Christmas. To showwilling, I’ve always done it. Sometimes, my children have done it too. Morwenna, who’s the actual Cornish person, has never done it. Virtually Christmas (Harper Collins) is out now A family birdwatchingwalk Mya-Rose Craig, ornithologist, environmentalist and author Every year, we get together with our family – grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins – on 27 December. We go for a walk at a halfway point between our homes. We’ve always chosen a place that is full of winter thrushes, with fieldfare and redwing decorating the fields. Christmas is a great time for casual birdwatching, to help alleviate the stress of these busy fewweeks. Birdgirl (Jonathan Cape) is out now Inmy opinion There’s no disputing that many believe there is a northsouth divide in the UK. And one northern win that’s often cited is the friendliness of those living north of Birmingham. A trip down south will inevitably result in tales of emotionless faces barely grimacing, let alone smiling, when confronted with a “Goodmorning!” or “How are you?” froman exuberant northerner. Having lived in London for more than 20 years, and being an inhabitant of NorthWest England for the past six years, I speak froma position of authority when I say it’s time to put this stereotype of themonosyllabic southerner to rest. One of the accusations levelled at Londoners is that nobody talks to each other while travelling on a packed Tube. The reasonable response to this charge is: “Why should they?” The Tube ride from, say, TottenhamHale to Stockwell isn’t designed to be a jamboree of hugging and high fives. While the trams of Manchester may be a vehicle to enhance social interaction between strangers, the Underground is amobile sardine can of stress. So, if you do find yourself in the Big Smoke and in need of a chat, choose your venue carefully. We are not uniformly taciturn. I’ma southerner who engages in conversationwherever I go. Recently, I found myself in a London cab having an enlightening conversation with amanwhowas simultaneously keeping two sets of families going. He had two childrenwith onewoman, and threewith another. Three days with one family, three days with the other and presumably, just like CraigDavid, he chilled on Sunday. Bothwomen knewof each other and accepted the other’s children as their own. I asked, he shared, I listened. The next morning, back in theNorthWest, I chatted to a man as we both charged our vehicles. In that 25minutes, I learned about his teenage son, whomhe no longer livedwith, who had gone o the rails andwas in trouble with the police. In both instances, I allowedmy curiosity to open up a dialogue with a complete stranger. Whether it be north-south or east-west, never allow any pre-conceptions to shut down the chance to converse. We need to value face-to-face dialogue as we’re increasingly lured into a virtual world that can never replace the joy to be had froma proper chinwag – even one with a southerner. Nihal’s book Let’s Talk: How to Have Better Conversations (Trapeze) is out now. @TherealNihal ‘The Underground is amobile sardine can of stress. So, if you’re in the Big Smoke and in need of a chat, choose your venue carefully’ NIHAL ARTHANAYAKE The broadcaster and author airs his views Illustration: Gerhard van Wyk/Folioart, Photographs: © Matt Russell, Joe Magowan, David Loftus, Oliver Edwards Photography

9 8 DECEMBER 2022 News&Views TEENAGE KICKS Legendary formerManchester Unitedmanager SirMatt Busby said: “If they’re good enough, they’re old enough,” when talking about his selection of young players in a team that wonmultiple trophies in the 50s and 60s. On Sunday, 19-year-old Jude Bellingham (left) proved his point when he starred in England’s 3-0 win over Senegal in the last 16 of theWorld Cup, playing a part in two goals and earning rave reviews. Themidfielder, who scored England’s first goal of the tournament against Iran, helped set up a quarter-final meeting againstWorld Cup holders France on Saturday (10 December). It will be England’s toughest test, but many fans are daring to dream football might be coming home... The big picture Photographs: Getty Images

1 0 8 DECEMBER 2022 News&Views FIRST Joely Richardson tells Paul Kirkley about returning to the world of Lady Chatterley after 30 years – andwhy you shouldn’t use the phrase ‘acting dynasty’ around her mother LADY Photographs: Craig Gibson/StillMoving Images for Net ix

1 1 8 DECEMBER 2022 This time last year, Joely Richardson did something she’d never done before – she googled her name. And up popped hundreds of pictures of a stranger. “I just didn’t recognisemyself. I did not recognise that person. It was mostly red carpet things – and as we all know, that’s a total fantasy,” she says. “So at my grand old age,” – she’s only 57 – “I joined Instagram. Just to get something a bit more representative of me out there. I’mnot saying this is the real me,” she adds of her Insta feed, whichmixes snapshots from the life of a globetrotting actress with archive photos from the family album, and anything else that takes her fancy. “The real me is the one at home taking out the rubbish and washing up. But I just wanted something out there that was a little bit about how I see things.” Joely has clocked up a lot of miles on those red carpets over the years – this, after all, is someone whomade her film debut aged three, as an extra in her father Tony Richardson’s 1968 film The Charge of the Light Brigade. Since then, she’s appeared inmore than 50movies and TV shows, frombig screen blockbusters such as 101 Dalmatians and Event Horizon to costume drama The Tudors and a 100-episode stint onUSmedical drama Nip/Tuck. Her latest venture finds her revisiting the scene of one of her most high-profile successes, playingMrs Bolton, widowed nursemaid to the paralysed Sir Cli ord Chatterley, inNetflix’s new filmof Lady Chatterley’s Lover. It’s a return to Wragby Hall that comes 30 years after she starred as Lady C in Ken Russell’s BBC adaptation of the DHLawrence classic. “When they o eredme the role, I was like: ‘Hmm, this is interesting – do they know I’ve been part of this project before?’” smiles Joely. “I still don’t know the answer to that question, actually. But I read the script, I really liked the character and I thought: ‘Yes, I’d like to be a part of telling this story again.’” Did returning to Lawrence’s world inevitably lead her to reflect on the passing years? “There was an ironic smile, definitely,” she says. “But I think about the passage of time a lot anyway. I think, as you get older, you’remore conscious of howmuch time there is left, and the fact we never know howmuch we’ve got. So use it wisely.” The new version stars The Crown’s Emma Corrin as Constance, the lonely lady of themanor who finds comfort in the arms (and bed) of the estate gamekeeper, Oliver Mellors, played by Jack O’Connell. Did they swap notes on the role? “I was trying to keep it a borderline secret,” admits Joely. “I certainly wasn’t going tomention that I’d ever been part of it before – what’s the point? Then on day two, Emma said tome: ‘You played Lady Chatterley!’ And I was like,” – shemakes a face – “get out of this one…We didn’t compare notes, as such. It wouldn’t have been appropriate. But we did share funny stories – like the dancing in the rain scene. ‘As you get older, you’re more conscious of how much time there is left, and the fact we never knowhow muchwe’ve got. So use it wisely’

12 8 DECEMBER 2022 News&Views Because only actors who have done it would know how funny, ridiculous and scary that could be.” This, of course, is the famous sequence in which Connie andMellors throw o the shackles of an oppressive society – along with all their clothes – and dance with joyous abandon in a summer downpour. When Joely filmed her version with costar Sean Bean, that didn’t go entirely to plan. “Ken Russell was blasting out music, and there were rainmachines going, and we were dancing around – and then a double decker bus went past, and everyone on the top deck could see right over the wall! Sean and I just looked at each other…” Lawrence’s book is a notoriously racy a air – in 1960, its republication by Penguin sparked the 20th century’s most celebrated obscenity trial, during which the chief prosecutor memorably asked if it was the kind of book “you would wish your wife or servants to read”. And the new version certainly doesn’t spare any blushes when it comes to sex and nudity – though, unlike in Joely’s day, Emma and Jack had the benefit of working with an intimacy coordinator. “I was really glad they had that, because it is very intimate,” says Joely. “I think if you can explore, and take risks, but within the confines of a safe space, then that’s the way to go. I mean, I also got lucky in that Sean Bean is a great actor, and somy experience was tremendously positive.” Recently, Sean caused a stir when, during an interview, he suggested intimacy coordinators “spoil the spontaneity” of sex scenes, adding: “Lady Chatterley was spontaneous. It was a joy. We had a good chemistry between us, and we knew what we were doing was unusual. Because she was married, I was married. We were trying to portray the truth of what DHLawrence wrote.”What did Joelymake of that? “I can’t speak on Sean’s behalf,” she says. “I think there’s room for both. I think that nowwe know about all the horrors that have gone on [on film sets], people do need to be protected. But Emma Thompson has spoken about this – about how she and her fellow actor and the director felt safe enough as a triangle to work it out between themselves. “I think as long as everyone feels safe, and has the power to feel their voice is being heard... And I don’t know, but I have a feeling Sean’s quote was taken out of context. It’s the Yorkshire thing – sometimes you say something, but you don’t mean it literally.” Joely is half-Yorkshire herself – her father was a chemist’s son fromShipley, while her mother, Vanessa Redgrave, was born into theatrical royalty as the daughter of Michael Redgrave and Rachel Kempson. (Laurence Olivier famously announced her arrival into the world on stage during a performance of Hamlet at the Old Vic, with the prophetic words: “A great actress has been born this night.”) On the day Weekend meets Joely, the papers are full of pictures of her family’s visit to BuckinghamPalace the previous afternoon, for her mother’s investiture as a Dame Commander. “It was really special,” she smiles. “There was something verymoving about it – the fact that it mademy mum so happy. It was a beautiful moment.” Not everyone is as impressed by Dame Vanessa’s long stage and screen career, however. “A few years ago, I was withmy mumwhen someone said to her: ‘Do you workmuch? The Do you like to cook? “I love to cook. I’ve been nding that cooking is a great form of relaxation for me. I like the creativity, and the busyness of it. I plucked and cooked game the other week. I did go veggie for a while, but found my energy was dropping, so I thought: ‘If I’m going to eat meat, I need to know the process.’ Mellors would be proud.” Favourite cuisine? “Well, my mother is married to an Italian [actor and director Franco Nero] and I went to a French school, so there’s also that side of it. What’s amazing is you can get everything now from supermarkets or farmers’ markets. I’m a big fan of my local farmers’ market.” Do you eat in front of the telly? “Oh my God, yes. Sitdown dinners are only for the weekend, when people come round.” A LIFE ON SCREEN Joely as Mrs Bolton in Lady Chatterley’s Lover (below left); as the titular character with Sean Bean in the 1993 version (below right); with her mother and older sister Natasha in 1967 (bottom right) ‘I’ve never just put on a costume and turned up. I’m interested in playing characters that have life experience’ F O O D B I T E S Photographs: Craig Gibson/StillMoving Images for Net ix, Parisa Taghizadeh:Net ix © 2022, Shutterstock, Alamy Stock Photo

13 8 DECEMBER 2022 last thing I saw you on was Morecambe andWise, 40 years ago.’” Joely laughs. “So it’s all in the eye of the beholder.” Joely and her late sister Natasha both followed their Oscar-winning parents into the business, while Joely’s daughter Daisy, fromher marriage to filmproducer Tim Bevan, is also an actress. (After her divorce, Joely dated RobbieWilliams and Jamie Theakston. Today, she says only that “I don’t live alone”.) Throw in her aunt Lynne, uncle Corin and cousin Jemma Redgrave, and it’s not hard to see why every profile of the family ever written reaches for the phrase ‘acting dynasty’. How does Joely feel about the label – does she feel dynastic? “You should askmymum– ‘Dynasty? Honestly, what are they talking about?’” she laughs. “But I don’t mind. I think there’s something rather nice about the fact that somany generations of our family have done it. It’s the same as if we were watchmakers, and were all just really interested in time, and how clocks work. The only time I slightlymind is when I thinkmy dad’s side is being overlooked. Because that’s the other 50%.” A luminary of British cinema’s NewWave, Tony Richardson turned the spotlight on working class life in 60s kitchen sink classics such as A Taste of Honey and The Loneliness of the Long Distance Runner. “My dad’s work was absolutely groundbreaking,” says Joely. “I saw A Taste of Honey again about a year ago and, ohmy God, it’s all there, in terms of class, gender, diversity – I just felt so proud of him.” Four decades into her own career, Joely is currently enjoying something of a purple patch. In addition to Lady Chatterley’s Lover, she had amajor role in recent Netflix hit The Sandman and is currently filming SallyWainwright’s The Ballad of Renegade Nell for Disney+. “I’m lucky to be in this time, when there aremore roles for older women,” she says. “Although the roles are often smaller, they’re truly interesting, and I can really dig into them. I love the process of acting. I’ve never just put on a costume and turned up. I’m interested in playing characters that have life experience. And I can usemy own life experience through characters like Mrs Bolton, who have known great love, and great loss. “I’m really proud to saymy age,” she adds. “Because I see it as another year achieved. You don’t want to discount that, when you’re lucky enough to be in good health. Of course, life is harder as you get older. I see the courage of older people. I don’t like the attitude that it’s something to be ashamed about. My life is very full and very alive. But it’s also about: what do you do with your experiences? How do you write the narrative? I mean, obviously, there are some events that you can’t change into happy ones. I’mnot fantastical about that. Some things are just awful. But there are choices that you canmake.” It may be projection on our part, but quite a few of the things Joely has said – about experiencing love and loss, of every year of life being an achievement and never knowing howmuch time we’ve got left – seem to allude to the absence of her sister Natasha, who died, aged 45, following a skiing accident in 2009. (Shortly afterwards, Joely quit Nip/Tuck andmoved to NewYork to support her brother-in-law, Liam Neeson, and her nephews.)What’s her enduringmemory of her sister? “That’s a di cult question, because it’s like saying: ‘How do you remember a world?’” she says. “There’s no one vision. I can say that we all miss her dreadfully. But you carry your loved ones with you, whether it’s my sister, or my father. She was themost incredible life force, so I remember that, and her laugh. It was this sort of wonderful, ebullient cackle that made you feel everything was going to be alright. I often want to ring her up and talk to her…” Earlier in our conversation, Joely had referred to “the gypsy life” of an actor, where “the caravan is always moving on”. It’s a theme she returns to when discussing her extraordinary family. “I always thought there was something really wonderful about the waymymum, andmy aunt – when she was still alive – would travel fromplace to place, with their little bags, and pitch up and do their bit of work,” she reflects. “An actor is a storyteller. And why do we tell stories? It originates from the campfire. It’s howwe survive – people sharing stories, sharing experiences. I think there’s something beautiful about that.” Lady Chatterley’s Lover is on Netflix now ‘I always thought there was something really wonderful about the way mymumandmy aunt would travel and pitch up and do their bit of work’

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17 8 DECEMBER 2022 ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Photographs: Ant Duncan, Food styling: Joss Herd, Styling: Wei Tang, Art direction: Pippa Paine Food&Drink One of my favourite things to do at Christmas is spend an afternoon making edible gifts for friends and family. It’s a lovely way to take a break from December’s hustle and bustle, and the results are always well received. Who doesn’t love a box of biscuits, some homemade fudge or a special jar of chutney to spice up Boxing Day cold cuts? If you’d like to have a go at making your own presents, Martha’s cookie recipes are fabulous – I recommend making two batches of each, so you can keep some! For more ideas, head to waitrose.com/ediblegifts. What’s For Dinner? p18 Short Cuts p22 Too Good ToWaste with Elly Curshen p23 What I’mCooking with Zoë Simons p25 The Best withMartha Collison p26 Christmas Hosting with JohnWhaite p31 Very Important Producer p34 Wine List with Pierpaolo Petrassi MW p36

1 8 8 DECEMBER 2022 What’s for dinner? Photographs: Ant Duncan, Food styling: Joss Herd, Styling: Wei Tang, Art direction: Pippa Paine If you’re in need of easy, affordableweeknightmeals, look no further – these brilliant dishesmake themost of our Essential products, with a dash of something special fromthe newCooks’ Ingredients range Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V Vegetarian.

19 8 DECEMBER 2022 Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 15 minutes 2 tbsp olive oil 15g Essential Butter 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 250g pack chestnut mushrooms, caps and stalks sliced 1 tsp smoked paprika 50ml chicken stock (or water) 50ml white wine ½ x 500g pack tagliatelle 150g Pentland Brig kale, stems removed, leaves torn 300g Essential British Beef Frying Steak, trimmed and cut into 2cm strips 100ml Essential Soured Cream ½ x 25g pack at leaf parsley, chopped 1 Heat 1 tbsp oil with the butter in a large, deep frying pan or sauté pan, until foaming. Add the shallots and garlic and cook gently for 5 minutes, until softened. Turn up the heat, add the mushrooms and paprika, season generously and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes until the mushrooms are just browned. Add the stock (or water) and wine, then boil until reduced by ½. Tip into a dish and keep warm. 2 Cook the pasta according to pack instructions, adding the kale to the pan in the nal minute of cooking to wilt. Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in the frying pan and add the beef strips. Fry for 2-3 minutes over a high heat to cook on all sides, leaving the centre pink. 3 Return the mushrooms and juices to the pan and reheat gently. Stir in the soured cream, but don’t let it boil. Check the seasoning, then scatter with the parsley. Drain the pasta and kale, then serve with the strogano . Per serving 3754kJ/897kcals/40g fat/15g saturated fat/ 73g carbs/6.3g sugars/8.5g bre/52g protein/0.4g salt Beef &mushroom stroganoff Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 30 minutes 2 tbsp vegetable oil 1 large onion, chopped 2-3 cloves garlic, nely chopped 2cm piece ginger, nely grated 2 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Medium Curry Powder 300g sweet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 3cm cubes 400g can Essential Chopped Tomatoes 2 x 400g cans Essential Chickpeas, 1 drained, 1 undrained 450g Essential Spinach, washed and shredded (or use 225g frozen whole leaf spinach) ½ tsp garam masala 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan, add the onion, garlic and ginger and fry gently for 5 minutes, until soft and lightly browned. Stir in the curry powder and cook for 1 minute more. Add the sweet potato, stir to coat in the spices, then tip in the tomatoes and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. 2 Add the drained and undrained chickpeas, then season and bring back to a simmer. Cover and cook gently for 15 minutes, until the sweet potato is almost tender, adding 100ml water if it’s looking a little dry. (Prepare the recipe up to this stage, cool, then nish the nal step just before you need it, if liked.) 3 Stir in the spinach, turn up the heat, cover and cook for 3-5 minutes, until tender and the liquid has almost evaporated. Stir in the garam masala, check the seasoning and serve with rice and chutney of your choice, if liked. V Per serving (excluding rice and chutney) 1600kJ/ 381kcals/11g fat/1g saturated fat/48g carbs/12g sugars/ 15g bre/16g protein/0.6g salt/4 of your 5 a day/vegan/ gluten free Spiced greens, sweet potato & chickpea curry COOK’S TIP To make your own curry powder, mix 1 tbsp ground coriander with 2 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground turmeric and ½ tsp cayenne. You can swap the sweet potato for squash or pumpkin and use any green leafy vegetable such as kale, shredded Savoy cabbage or chard instead of the spinach. Freeze in individual portions for up to 3 months, then defrost and reheat gently until piping hot. COOK’S TIP To freeze, make the recipe up to the end of step 2, leaving out the pasta and greens. Brown the beef for 1 or 2 minutes, then add to the mushrooms. Cool quickly and freeze in a rigid container. Defrost, then reheat thoroughly but quickly, until piping hot. Stir in the soured cream, nish with parsley and serve with freshly cooked pasta and kale. Food&Drink Oil (olive or vegetable) Butter Milk Honey Sugar White wine vinegar or malt vinegar Stock cubes Flour (tbsp) Salt Black pepper Garlic Dried mixed herbs Chilli akes Tomato ketchup Tomato purée Wholegrain mustard Soy sauce Curry powder STORECUPBOARD ESSENTIALS Keep these staples to hand as the base for easy weeknight meals You can now add ingredients to your trolley direct from our online recipe pages. Simply sign in to your account, book a delivery slot and add what you need from the ‘Shop this recipe’ section further down the page. SCAN THI S CODE FOR EASYTO SHOP RECI PES

21 8 DECEMBER 2022 Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 500g Essential British Pork Mince 8% Fat 2 cloves garlic, nely chopped 1 Essential Free Range White Egg, beaten 4 anchovy llets, drained and nely chopped 7-8 sprigs rosemary, leaves nely chopped ½ Essential Lemon, scrubbed, zest and juice 150g natural yogurt 50g walnut pieces, roughly chopped ¾ x 25g pack at leaf parsley, chopped 3 tbsp olive oil 4 wholemeal tortilla wraps, warmed ½ Essential Cucumber, cut into batons 90g bag wild rocket, to serve 1 Mix together the mince, garlic, egg, anchovies, rosemary, lemon zest and some seasoning in a large bowl until thoroughly combined. The easiest way to do this is with your hands. Roll into small walnut-sized balls (about 16). Chill while you prepare the dressing. 2 Mix the yogurt with the walnuts, lemon juice, parsley and 1 tbsp oil, then season. Warm the wraps according to pack instructions. 3 Heat the oil in a nonstick frying pan and fry the meatballs in 2 batches for 8-10 minutes, until golden on all sides and cooked through with no pink meat. Drain on kitchen paper. Pile into the wraps, spoon over the yogurt dressing and top with the cucumber and rocket. Per serving 2365kJ/566kcals/30g fat/6.7g saturated fat/ 34g carbs/5.4g sugars/5.9g bre/37g protein/1g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Pork, lemon & rosemarymeatball wraps withwalnut yogurt dressing Serves 4 Prepare 20 minutes + cooling and chilling Cook 30 minutes 300g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes 300g celeriac, peeled and cut into small cubes 150g broccoli, cut into similar sized pieces, including the stalk 200g frozen Essential Petits Pois 150g pack Scottish hot smoked salmon slices 2 tbsp capers, drained 1 lemon, juice of ½, ½ cut into wedges 3 tbsp plain our, seasoned 3 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Panko Breadcrumbs 20g Pecorino Romano, nely grated 2 tbsp olive oil 1 Put the potatoes and celeriac in a large pan and add cold water to just cover. Boil, then cover and cook for 15 minutes, until almost tender. After 10 minutes, put the broccoli and petits pois in a steamer or heatproof colander and place over the water. Cover and steam for 4-5 minutes, until tender. 2 Mash or process the broccoli and peas to a coarse purée. Drain the roots thoroughly, return to the pan and mash together with seasoning, then mix in the broccoli pea purée. 3 Flake the sh into the vegetables, then add the capers and lemon juice and mix well. Check the seasoning – remember the sh is quite salty. Shape the mixture into 8 patties while warm, or leave to cool and chill if possible. 4 Mix the our, breadcrumbs and cheese in a shallow bowl and carefully dip the sh cakes in the mixture to coat all over. If the patties are still warm, you may need to push them back into shape as you go. Heat ½ the oil in a nonstick frying pan and fry in 2 batches for 6-8 minutes until golden, turning once. Drain on kitchen paper before serving with the lemon wedges, and some tartare sauce, if liked. Per serving 1451kJ/346kcals/13g fat/2.8g saturated fat/35g carbs/6.3g sugars/7.8g bre/19g protein/ 1.6g salt/375mg omega 3/2 of your 5 a day Crispy hot smoked salmon, broccoli & pea fish cakes COOK’S TIP Use any combination of leftover cooked roots and greens instead of raw – just keep the proportions the same. If making with leftover cold veg, the mixture will be drier, so dip into milk before coating in the crumbs. Freeze the cooled, uncooked cakes on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment, then pack in freezer bags or containers. Use within 3 months – defrost then cook gently as above. COOK’S TIP Freeze uncooked meatballs on a parchmentlined baking sheet. Once hard, pack into a freezer bag or container. The meatballs will stay separate and you can take out as many as you need. Defrost in the fridge overnight, then cook as above, or serve with pasta and sauce. If making with lamb, try a dollop of houmous or pesto instead of the yogurt.

22 8 DECEMBER 2022 SHORT CUTS Spinach& chickpea falafel Friday fakeaway 2 PIZZAS + 1 BREAD + 1 DI P THE ITALIAN TAKEOUT £12 Serves 2 Ready in 15 minutes + chilling Blend the chickpeas, spinach & quinoa in a food processor with 3-4 tbsp houmous, until roughly chopped and just coming together as a sti paste. With damp hands, roll into 10 balls, then atten slightly. If there is time, chill for 30 minutes. Fry in 2-3 tbsp oil in a nonstick frying pan over a high heat for 5-6 minutes, turning occasionally until golden. Meanwhile, halve the tomatoes in the Greek style salad, then dress and toss the salad. Griddle or warm the pittas. Swirl the remaining houmous onto 2 plates, top with the salad and falafel, then serve with the pitta on the side. 300g pack chickpeas, spinach & quinoa 200g pack lemon & coriander houmous 230g pack Greek style side salad 2 Essential White Pittas O er ends 24 January. Selected lines only. Subject to availability. The Italian Takeout Marvellous Margherita Pizza £6/500g The Italian Takeout Fantastic Cheese & Garlic Flatbread £3/260g The Italian Takeout Perfect Pepperoni Pizza £6/500g The Italian Takeout Gorgeous Garlic Mayonnaise Dip £1/60g Photographs: Ant Duncan, Food styling: Joss Herd, Styling: Wei Tang, Art direction: Pippa Paine

8 DECEMBER 2022 23 Food&Drink S C A N T HI S CODE F OR MOR E R E CI P E S Serves 6 Prepare 20 minutes Cook 50 minutes 45g Essential Salted Butter 1 large or 2 smaller bulbs fennel, trimmed, halved, cored and cut into 1cm slices ½ Essential Onion, cut into 1cm slices 150g raw Brussels sprouts, cut into 0.5cm slices 80g unsalted cashew nuts 1 large or 2 medium Essential Potatoes, skin on 30g Essential Plain Flour 250ml Essential Free Range British Whole Milk 150ml pot Essential Double Cream 75g mature Cheddar (or another full- avoured cheese), grated Flat leaf parsley, chopped to garnish (optional) Brussels sprouts, fennel, potato & cashew gratin Themost important point in the annual discussion about what to do with leftover Brussels sprouts is don’t cookmore than you’ll eat. It’s easier to find ways to repurpose sprouts if you have the option of using them raw or cooked. Raw, and finely shredded, sprouts are worlds away from the boiled, waterlogged vegetables youmay shudder at. They have a distinctly ‘green’ flavour, and pair well with lemon and olive oil. Using your food processor (fine slicing blade attached), you’ll have a big pile of shredded greens in seconds, which can then be added into slaws. If you don’t fancy them raw, you can also sauté or roast thinly sliced sprouts. This week, I bring you a gratin and a stir fry that can bemade using either raw or cooked sprouts, plus a raw sprout salad and a hash using cooked leftovers. And remember – don’t buy or cookmore than you need! @ellypear SPROUTS Too good towaste withElly Curshen 1 Melt 15g butter in a large, lidded pan. Add the fennel, onion and sprouts. Season well, stir, cover and cook gently for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the fennel is tender and lightly golden. Replacing the lid each time ensures the vegetables steam and soften as well as brown. Add the cashew nuts, stir well, and remove from the heat. Keep the pan covered and put to one side. 2 Meanwhile, halve the potato lengthways, then cut into 0.5cm slices. Put in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil over a high heat, then simmer for 5 minutes, until tender. Drain and set aside. 3 Use the same small pan to make a white sauce. Melt the remaining 30g butter, whisk in the our and cook for 2 minutes. Add the milk and cream slowly, whisking continuously. Season well and cook for 1-2 minutes until you have a smooth, thick sauce. Take o the heat, stir in 25g of the cheese and let it melt. Pour ¾ of the sauce into the pan of fennel, sprouts and onion and fold together. Tip the mixture into a 1.5L ovenproof dish (about 17x22cm) Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. 4 Toss the cooked potato in the remaining sauce and lay it out on top of the dish, in MORE LEFTOVER IDEAS 1Strong avours such as soy, sriracha, ginger, gochujang, sesame and chilli work well with cooked sprouts. Give them new life by cutting into quarters and using in a quick and easy vegetable stir fry, served with rice or tossed through noodles. 2A fresh, zingy lemony raw sprout salad will cut through festive indulgence. Simply place raw sprouts, (trimmed and nely sliced) in a mixing bowl and add a pinch of sea salt akes, 1 tbsp olive oil and the juice of ½ a lemon. Mix together for 1 minute, then pile onto a serving platter. Finely grate over 10g pecorino cheese and add some Cooks’ Ingredients Smoky Chipotle Crust on top. Serves 2-4 as a side salad. 3 Sausage, potato & Brussels sprout hash is a great way to use up cooked sprouts. Heat 20g butter and 1 tbsp brown sauce in a frying pan, then add a couple of chopped sausages. Fry until golden brown and cooked through. Add bitesized pieces of cooked potato and halved cooked sprouts. Lightly crush the potatoes with a masher. Mix together and fry until everything is hot, golden and crispy on the edges. overlapping lines. Pour over any leftover sauce. Scatter the remaining grated cheese on the top and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the gratin is bubbling and golden brown. Scatter some parsley over the top to serve, if liked. Delicious with green veg. Per serving 2716kJ/654kcals/47g fat/25g saturated fat/ 39g carbs/9.8g sugars/6.5g bre/16g protein/0.7g salt ELLY’S TIP If using cooked sprouts, quarter them and add at the same time as the cashews. To use mixed unsalted nuts instead of cashews, rst boil in water for 5 minutes to soften. Photographs: Ant Duncan, Food styling: Joss Herd, Styling: Wei Tang

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