WeekendFREE Issue 626 | 24November 2022 FOODIE MATCH England andWales go head- to-head in a culinary contest p6 PATTI SMITH The punk icon looks back on a life dedicated to art p10 SUMPTUOUS SIDES Ed Smithmakes everyone’s festive faves the main event p29 OFFERS Great savings on selected products fromWaitrose p52 LET THE COUNTDOWN BEGIN! Make it a magical Christmas with Heston Blumenthal’s award-winning pear and g mince pies, paired with his creamy potted blue Stilton, p40
2 24 NOVEMBER 2022 News&Views The number of US expats living in the UK is on the rise, and so are Thanksgiving menus whichwill be enjoyed across the country this week, writes Tessa Allingham DINERS GIVE THANKS FOR AN AMERICAN TRADITION Around 400 United States Air Force personnel will sit down to a Thanksgiving feast in the Knight’s Table dining facility today (24 November) at RAF Lakenheath, their UK base in Su olk. The servicemen and women, who live in communal dormitories, will be served by their commanding o cers in a gesture of appreciation from senior sta . They will feast, as is tradition on the third Thursday of November, on roast turkey and ham, mashed potatoes, and baked sweet potatoes topped with billowingmarshmallow. There’ll be green bean casserole, cranberry sauce, cornbread dressing (‘stu ng’ to British readers) and gravy, with pumpkin pie to finish. After, they’ll likely snooze, although there is a calorie-busting 5k turkey trot. “It’s optional, but it does help create space for more food!” saysMajor Justin Szeker, chaplain at the base. “Thanksgiving is about being with family and friends, and eating waymore than you need, thenmaybe watching some American football... and napping.” Or in the case of tomorrow, England v USA in theWorld Cup. Some personnel extend the feast at the Leaping Hare restaurant at nearbyWyken Vineyards. There, Mississippiborn Carla Carlisle puts a southern accent on a turkeycentredmenu, enriching sweet potatoes with bourbon and butter, andmolasses-sweetened pecan pie. It’s not surprising that Thanksgiving is taken seriously around this part of Su olk. The American personnel on the three bases – Lakenheath, Mildenhall and Feltwell – create the largest community of US citizens in the UK. And with the number of Americans living here continuing to rise (data experts Statista estimate 166,000, up from 131,000 in 2008), you can see why this secular festival, a bright spot in dark November, appeals. Going all-out to attract diners is Sunday in Brooklyn, the Notting Hill outpost of the NewYork restaurant of the same name with a reputation for brunch, cocktails and all-day generosity. On themenu are turkey, a chestnut mushroom Wellington vegan alternative, and sides galore. Across the capital is TheMayflower in Rotherhithe. From amooring by this ancient Thameside pub, theMayflower set sail for America with the pilgrims in 1620, and it was their gratitude for a first harvest that gave rise to today’s festival. Pull up a seat and imagine the conversations of 400 years ago as you tuck into turkey and all the trimmings, bookended perhaps by roast cauliflower soup and pecan brownie. Maybe you have a booking at Isaac’s, a NewYork-inspired brasserie in Birmingham’s GrandHotel? Or at Manchester’s Blues Kitchen wheremusic, American cocktails and a turkey burger with roast pumpkin and cinnamon purée, crispy bacon andmac ‘n’ cheesemight fit the bill. At Cut restaurant in Park Lane, executive chef Elliott Grover worked with American chef and Cut founderWolfgang Puck to deliver his first Thanksgivingmenu. “It’s exciting,” he says. “We have a huge number of American customers – it has to be right.” He’s a convert to sweet potato and torchedmarshmallow but is swerving dessert traditions. “Everyone does pumpkin and pecan, so we’re doing key lime pie.” At all-American Bob’s Lobster by London Bridge, founder Rob Dann (half-American) flies the flag for seafood. “Lobster won’t knock the big bird o its Thanksgiving perch, but it’s arguably more authentic,” he says. Rob compromises with a “big old American surf-and-turf”, a feast of turkey and lobster. Don’t overlook seafoody sides –Hasselback potatoes with Exmoor caviar, Dunkeld smoked salmon blinis, crayfish croquettes, Maldon oysters. And find room for a lobster roll. If you’re feasting at home, Waitrose has whole turkeys or turkey crowns, while there’s pumpkins, green beans, and sweet potatoes – and don’t forget thosemarshmallows! See waitrose.com/recipes for Thanksgiving inspiration FABULOUS FEAST Cut restaurant in Park Lane (left) and Bob’s Lobster near London Bridge (below) will serve Thanksgiving menus; Carla Carlisle (inset below); RAF Lakenheath chaplain Major Justin Szeker (bottom left)
3 24 NOVEMBER 2022 G O O D N E W S I N B R I E F This week’s uplifting stories fromAnna-Marie Julyan Knowyour onions A charity that gives teachers free lesson plans to deliver food education in schools has won the Food Innovation category at the BBC Food & Farming Awards. TastEd lessons don’t require kitchens – teachers simply bring fresh fruit and veg into classes for children to touch, discuss, draw, smell and taste. Judges Dan Saladino and Sheila Dillon said it has the potential to ‘make real long-term change’. tasteeducation.com Piece of history One of the largest and most important ceramics collections will go on display after being locked in storage since 2008, when the Spode factory went into administration. The Spode Museum Collection of 20,000 pieces will move to a renovated nightclub in Stoke-on-Trent, thanks to funding from Historic England and the city council. Building work is due to nish in January. Flicker of hope Today’s (mostly) chocolate- lled Advent calendars are rst opened on 1 December, but the Christian season o cially begins on Sunday (27 November) this year, with the lighting of the rst Advent candle. There are four Advent Sundays, where candlelight symbolises hope, renewal and the triumph of light over darkness. Another luminous celebration is the Moravian custom of Christingle, when children carry oranges studded with a lit candle and sweets. Uniting the community The fourth-generation owner of family run Il Portico restaurant in London’s Kensington is opening a free pizzeria nearby for families weathering the cost-of-living crisis. Portico Pizzeria, run by James Chiavarini (below), will o er pizzas from 3.30-6.30pm, Wednesday to Sunday, until spring. Partnering with local charities, it will feed up to 500 families per week, and is being subsidised by paid Uber Eats deliveries. In response to Black Friday (25 November) and its big sales bonanzas, a counterculture movement is gaining traction. Green Friday, taking place on the same day, sees some retailers donatingmoney to good causes instead of slashing prices. It can also mean shopping from sustainable brands, making carefully considered purchases that benefit the planet or simply escaping the crowds and tech to spend time in nature. Designer Anya Hindmarch famously created the I’mNot a Plastic Bag tote in 2007 and this year’s 100% recycled and recyclable The Universal Bag forWaitrose, exclusively in the brand’s green hue (right). Speaking at the John Lewis HappierWorld conference in October, she said that instead of cutting prices, for the past two years her business has donated all profits on Black Friday weekend to an environmental charity. “We proudly do not participate in Black Friday. We are really committed to creating consciously, with sustainability at the heart of what we do,” says Anya. “For us, that means creating collections that are beautifully and responsiblymade that are intended to last. We feel that the cycle of more andmore products, deliveries that are out of sync with the seasons and huge discounts throughout the year don’t add up for our planet.” It’s a tricky one to balance, however, says sustainable fashion advocate and journalist Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey. “Those who want a bargain, and can only a ord a bargain, deserve the chance to shop at better prices, but really it’s a bigger conversation about excessive consumption,” she says. “Green Friday is a far more positive conversation than the beast that is Black Friday. We need a greater shift to conscious, considered consumption – permanently – to ponder every purchase and treat shopping for fashion in particular as more of an investment. Small changes will together create a bigger impact.” Anna-Marie Julyan Forget snowflakes and baubles this Christmas and head to Poole, home of Europe’s largest natural harbour, to see its newmaritime-themed light trail. Visitors entering the town will follow 500,000 twinkling lights via Poole’s iconic Twin Sails Bridge – whose two lifting leaves symbolise a yacht’s sails – through the streets of the Old Town, once frequented by sea captains and pirates, to the historic quayside. The trail will feature a host of light installations, many recyclable and degradable, including a five-metre tall ship, recycling bins in the shape of a whale and a turtle, and a stunning 120munder- the-sea light curtain adorned with fish, Wind power is heading in the right direction. The Dogger Bank Wind Farm, off the coast of Yorkshire, will be switched on in July 2023, at which point it will be the world’s largest offshore wind farm. It aims to deliver clean renewable power to sixmillion UK homes, or 5% of the UK’s electricity demand, making it a key part of the government’s net-zero plan. shells, ships, anchors and starfish. “The ChristmasMaritime Light Festival promises to delight and entertain while celebrating our rich nautical heritage,” says Beverley Dunlop, of Bournemouth, Christchurch and Poole Council. The trail ends with a giant blue illuminated anchor opposite Poole’s CustomHouse, the site of an armed robbery in 1747 when 30 smugglers stole two tonnes of contraband tea. Tea – not smuggled – will be on o er this year, along with other festive fare at themany food and drink stalls. PatsyWestcott Poole ChristmasMaritime Light Festival runs until 2 January Ships ahoy! Maritime trail to light up Poole How tomake it a greener BlackFriday FA IR WIND FORECAST FOR RENEWABLES Photographs: 45 Park Lane, U.S. Air Force/ illustration by Airman 1st Class Seleena Muhammad-Ali, Laurie Fletcher, BCP Council / Blachere Illumination, James Chiavarini
5 24 NOVEMBER 2022 Mymother has a book devoted to a record of Christmas cards, but my approach is more haphazard. I post a few, but the rising cost of stamps – 95p for a first class one – turns me into Scrooge. The Greeting Card Association reports a decline in card sales, due to concerns about waste, combined with the cost of stamps and the popularity of posting festivemessages online. But the UK still spends more on this sector than anywhere else in the world. On average, we send and receive 17 cards each year, says environmental organisation Hubbub, which adds that, while we do our best to recycle them, a third of all Yuletide cards still go to landfill. I like e-cards, but they don’t bring festive sparkle to your home. And it’s the sparkle that causes problems, as glitter is made from microplastics that end up in our waterways. Waitrose and John Lewis decided to remove glitter fromall their cards and wrapping paper fromChristmas 2020 – and boxed cards are now recyclable andmade from Forest Stewardship Council-certified paper. If you’re only sending a few, 1 Tree Cards plant a tree for every one sold. The cards are made from recycledmaterials and contain bee-friendly plant seeds. Cards we receive this year will be turned into gift tags for future presents. I just need some crinkle cut scissors. I’ll also followmy mum’s lead by decorating the house with my favourites. I can still see the sparkly reindeer and nativity scenes placed on the mantelpiece each year when I was a child. ANNA SHEPARD Week 43: Festive repurposing Sustainable living A century on from their illicit prohibition heyday in 20s America, speakeasies are back in favour. Far from the illegal dives of history, modern-day versions, with their combination of secrecy and well-made cocktails, dial ‘going for a drink’ up a notch. “They appeal to our sense of adventure,” says Alex Carpene, bar manager at The Blind Pig – the term is prohibition-era slang for speakeasy – in London’s Soho. “And there’s glamour.” Alexmight make you a poisoned apple, a smoky blend of tawny port, whisky, and French vermouth served with absinthe-dipped apple from the bar’s menu inspired by children’s literature. It’s been 26 years since its original release, and with theWorld Cup now in full swing Frank Skinner, David Baddiel and the Lightning Seeds have given Three Lions a festivemakeover. With sleigh bells and a children’s choir, the re-recorded song features new lyrics celebrating the Lionesses’ historic Euros victory – and asks whether a Christmas miraclemight help themen’s side bring it home too. “It’s quite sweet, and quitemoving, actually,” said David. “Because it’s about football, but it’s also about survival, and time – and howme and Frank and Ian are still friends.” Paul Kirkley Football’s coming home for Christmas CHART TOPPERS David Baddiel, Frank Skinner and Ian Broudie of the Lightning Seeds are rooting for England in the World Cup News&Views Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart, Photography: Lateef Okunnu @Lateef.photography, Joe Magowan SULTRY COCKTAILS BEHIND HIDDEN DOORS SECRET BARS Alex Carpene mixes a poisoned apple cocktail at The Blind Pig in Soho (above); basement bar The Vault (above right) But first, you need to find the bar. Below a discreet optician’s sign on Poland Street is a door with a pig-shaped knocker. Enter and head upstairs to an intimate, candlelit space. It’s arguably easier to locate than The Vault beneathMilroy’s. Push the heavy bookcase at the back of the whisky shop, and go downstairs. Incense burns, ice clinks in old fashioneds, live jazz ripples. “We’re in Soho, so there’s that ‘underbelly’ vibe,” says manager JackWallis. “And we don’t talk about the bar much, to keep the sense of discovery.” Track down glamorous Nightjar (entrances to its Shoreditch and Carnaby Street bars are unmarked) to taste rare spirits distilled during prohibition. That tumble dryer at TheWashhouse inManchester? It’s not a tumble dryer. That phone box at The Exchange inNewcastle? Ditto. Knock on an unpromising locked door on Berry Street in Liverpool and slip into Berry &Rye, a tiny space steeped in vintage ephemera and sultry New Orleans blues. Order a suave old fashionedmade with Eagle Rare 10-year-old and Bu alo Trace bourbons, or lose yourself in the character of a sazerac, owner DanMurphy’s favourite combination of whisky, cognac, sugar and bitters in an absinthe-rinsed glass. For a taste of speakeasy-inspired bar Paradiso, which topped last month’s list of theWorld’s 50 Best Bars, head to Barcelona, then to the Pastrami Bar in the boho El Born district. Open the fridge and head on down. Tessa Allingham
WALES v ENGLAND FANTASY FOODBALL The two home nations will go head-to-head at theWorld Cup on Tuesday 29 November. But which one has a stronger food and drink game? Alice Ryan selects the teams In focus 6 24 NOVEMBER 2022 News&Views 1 Weighing 63lbs 8oz, the world’s biggest Welsh cake was made in Carmarthen in 2020. The nation’s signature bake dates from the 19th century, when fat, fruit and sugar were rst added to a atbread. 4 Wales is famous for wild seaweed, with more than 450 species growing on its coast. It avours everything from gin (from organic distillery Dà Mhìle) to cheese (award-winning dairy Caws Tei ). 2 Cordon Bleu cook Gilli Davies has spent 30 years ying the ag for Welsh cuisine, presenting BBC’s A Taste of Wales, and penning dozens of cookbooks, including a ve-volume series, Flavours of Wales. 3 A 16th-century inn in Llanarmon is o cially the best pub in Wales. Recognised in the National Pub & Bar Awards 2022, The West Arms serves the village with a population of just over 1,000. 6 Inviting diners to forage for the wild ingredients on its menu, Annwn made its Good Food Guide debut this year. Matt Powell’s restaurant, in Lawrenny, seats 12 in a converted potting shed. 7 The UK’s rst commercial vineyard was planted in Wales in 1875 at Castle Coch. The nation now produces a reported 100,000 bottles of wine annually, a gure expected to double by 2025. 8 First served to pit workers for breakfast with fried cockles, laverbread owes its reputation as a Welsh delicacy to actor Richard Burton, who dubbed the boiled seaweed ‘Welshman’s caviar’. 5 Welsh rarebit, the cheesy roux on toast, is said to have started life in the 1500s as a poor man’s alternative to rabbit. The rst record of the dish was in 1725, in poet John Byrom’s Literary Remains. 9 Gower Salt Marsh Lamb was the rst food in the UK to be granted Protected Designation of Origin status post-Brexit. Welsh lamb is so famed it won a place on school menus in Rome after taste tests. 10 Ynyshir in Powys made Michelin history this year, when it became the rst Welsh restaurant to win two stars. Chefpatron Gareth Ward serves diners up to 30 Asian-in uenced dishes in one sitting. 11 Cardi -born footballer Gareth Bale has launched a trio of canned beers with Glamorgan Brewing Co – Bale Ale, Bale Lager and Bale Pale. He also owns a sports bar and grill, Elevens, in the capital city. WALES Photographs: Thea Brønlund/ www.thewestarms.com , © Gilli Davies, Alamy Stock Photo, Annwn, Shutterstock, Dà Mhìle Distillery, Lafont, Channel 4, Myles New, Nyetimber, Cris Barnett
7 24 NOVEMBER 2022 Last summer, I was lucky enough to be in Tokyo for a surreal Olympic Games. Japanese taxpayers had paid out billions of dollars to prepare for a sporting spectacle that, sadly, none of them could attend due to Covid regulations. While I was in Japan reporting fromempty stadia on various sports, my wife was in England plotting behindmy back. For weeks mymind was solely onmy trip – PCR tests, apps to download, GPS signals to activate and formupon form to complete just to board the plane. I felt overwhelmed with the amount of bureaucracy involved to prepare for entering a country that prides itself on e ciency and thoroughness. As each day became an almost full-time conveyor belt of pre-trip double and triple checking, my wife saw a window of opportunity to put her cunning plan intomotion. Looking back, she had been dropping hints for months, but I had ignored them, focusing instead on one of the biggest adventures of my career. When she brought the subject up, I would laugh it o as an impulsive idea that would dissipate into the ether as quickly as it had arrived. I should have known better. We have been together for nearly 20 years and I askmyself why I didn’t read the warning signs that this was no idle chit-chat, but an idea that was going to become a reality regardless of my protestations. She played the long game, secretly contacting people abroad and putting the logistics together over months. And I didn’t suspect a thing. I missedmy wife, our two children and our Sta ordshire bull terrier, Lyra, while in Japan. But I wasn’t aware that back in England things were about to change. For months, my wife had suggested we add to our family with a Romanian rescue dog. I laboured under themisapprehension that this was a pipe dreamof hers, but it was quite the opposite. Awaitingme onmy return was a wife, two children and two dogs. Wagging his tail alongside Lyra wasWilson, a scru y little terrier-dachshund-rottweiler mash-up named after the dog in the brilliant sitcom Friday Night Dinner. And rather than eking out a perilous existence on a Romanian rubbish tip (where he was found), he’ll have a better Christmas than I will – the spoilt so-and-so. He’s now a boisterous, e ervescent, mischievous part of our lives, and I havemy wonderful, caring, deceitful, amazing wife to thank for that. Nihal’s book Let’s Talk: How to Have Better Conversations (Trapeze) is out now. @TherealNihal ‘Each day became a conveyor belt of pre-trip double and triple checking, andmy wife saw an opportunity to put her cunning plan intomotion’ 1 Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume in the Lake District is the rst English restaurant north of London to win a third Michelin star. With a 20-course tasting menu, it’s located in a former 13th-century smithy. 2 Jamie’s 30-Minute Meals is o cially the bestselling UK cookbook of the 21st century. The title sold 1,873,709 copies between publication in 2010 and 8 January this year, according to data by Nielsen. 3 Fish and chips has been an English staple since Victorian times and escaped rationing in the Second World War. In a UK Fisheries survey, 83% of people said it has the best claim to be the UK’s national dish. 4 Former England footballer Rio Ferdinand owns an Italian restaurant in Manchester. Named Rosso, after United’s red strip, it’s acclaimed for classic pasta dishes and its signature lobster. 5 The oldest known cookbook in the English language, published circa 1390, is The Forme of Cury. Penned by ‘the master cooks of King Richard II’, it includes recipes for whale, curlew and porpoise. 6 Birmingham has been crowned the nation’s most exciting food destination by The Good Food Guide 2022, beating London. Wilderness, Grace & Savour and Carters of Moseley all made the top 20. 7 Credited as the world’s rst TV chef, Fulham-born Philip Harben made his small-screen debut on 12 June 1946 in a 10-minute BBC show simply titled Cookery. He made lobster vol-au-vent. 8 Nyetimber’s Sussexmade Classic Cuvée 2003 beat French Champagne houses, including Bollinger and Louis Roederer, to become Champion of Worldwide Sparkling Wines in the Bollicine del Mondo in 2010. 9 The Melton Mowbray Pork Pie, awarded Protected Geographical Indication status in 2008, has been made in the Leicestershire town for 170 years and is worth £50 million to the area’s economy. 10 Heston Blumenthal, who launched his product line with Waitrose in 2010, holds more Michelin stars than any English chef, six, for The Fat Duck and Hind’s Head in Bray, and Dinner in Knightsbridge. 11 The Great British Bake O set a record for most-watched episode when, in 2016, the nal of series seven drew 14.8 million viewers. The format is inspired by English village fête cake competitions. ENGLAND Inmy opinion NIHAL ARTHANAYAKE The broadcaster and author airs his views
9 24 NOVEMBER 2022 News&Views Swooping and swirling in the autumn evening air, few things mesmerise like amurmuration of starlings. The word comes from the sound created by thousands of beating wings, and the visual e ect produced is the ultimate in ‘soft fascination’ – the calming attention we experiencewhen absorbed in the natural world. Murmurations have intrigued and delighted humans for centuries. Catalan photographer Xavi Bou has even turned them into art, using digital photography techniques to create his stunning book, Ornithographies. HelenMo at of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds says the reason starlings murmurate could be to attract other birds, as seen here at RSPBHamWall nature reserve in Somerset. “Themore there are, themore warmth and safety in numbers,” she adds. It could also be to confound predators: “A large, constantlymovingmass makes it really hard to attack and pick o individuals.” Scientists who studied the phenomenon believe the birds simply watch and follow their neighbours, adjusting speed and trajectory to produce the shifting, twisting formations. “There’s almost something a little supernatural about it,” says Helen. “The way murmurations happen in unspectacular areas, in our colder, darker months, makes themall themoremagical.” Faith Eckersall NATURE ’S BEST AIRSHOW The big picture Photographs: Mark Bretherton / Alamy Stock Photo
1 0 24 NOVEMBER 2022 News&Views LIFE THROUGH A LENS Poet, punk icon and now Instagram sensation – Patti Smith talks Paul Kirkley through 75 years of love, loss and art Photographs: Rebecca Miller/Contour by Getty Images
1 1 24 NOVEMBER 2022 When Weekend catches up with a slightly jetlagged Patti Smith inNewYork, she’s just arrived back from the launch of her latest art project – amultidisciplinary sound and vision exhibition inspired by the works of Arthur Rimbaud, Antonin Artaud and René Daumal – at Paris’ Centre Pompidou. Before that, she was on the road in Spain with her band, playing songs to festival crowds, some of whomweren’t even born when she released her iconic 1975 debut album, Horses. These are just two strands of a one-woman creative industry who has made her mark as a singer, songwriter, poet, painter, photographer andmore. So when the cover blurb for her new book talks of ‘a life devoted to art’, it’s no exaggeration. “I decided at a very young age, when I was still a schoolchild, that I wanted to devotemyself to the arts – poetry, writing, wherever my path tookme,” says Patti, 75. “But in themidst of that, I worked. I worked in factories and in bookstores. I was still working when I recorded Horses. Then, finally, I was able to take on performing as a full-time job. Though by then, I was also raising a family and there’s no harder work than that. But nomatter what I’ve done, I’ve always kept my vow to keep up the daily practice of doing something creative, which has been both a privilege and a sacrifice.” Since 2018, Patti’s daily devotions have included curating an Instagram feed that doubles as a photojournal of her life and a repository of inspirational people, places, objects, works and thoughts. Reluctantly abandoning her beloved 250 Land Polaroid camera – with which she had been chronicling her journeys for more than 20 years – and embracing the smartphone, Patti’s photographic dispatches have earned her more than amillion followers. And now there’s A Book of Days, a handsome volume of 366 images – one for each day of the year (plus an extra “for those born on a leap day”) – channelling the spirit of that Instagram feed onto the printed page. It’s an eclectic collection taking in everything from still lives (her father’s co ee cup, a radiator) to landscapes; family photos; archive pictures (Patti with her one time partner andmuse, photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, on Coney Island in 1969, or with her friendMichael Stipe on the way to their joint induction into the Rock &Roll Hall of Fame); and portraits of her personal heroes – fromher daughter Jesse, a climate activist, toMary Shelley, HankWilliams and Martin Luther King Jr. It is, in other words, a celebration of all the things in which Patti finds love or inspiration – a balm for, and an escape from, what she calls these “deeply uncertain times”. “I’m hoping it can be like a little friend,” she says. “At its simplest, I hope that it’s a nice thing, that people can put on their bed stand andmaybe flip through to see what’s happening on birthdays, or other occasions. Andmaybe it will suggest to themnew books to read, or introduce them to new scientists andmathematicians and artists and poets, who are spoken of alongsidemy family. It’s a humanist, cultural approach to life, reflecting some of the things that have been important tome, or inspiredme, fromJimi Hendrix to Pinocchio.” Many of themore recent photographs were taken at home inNewYork during lockdown. “Somany things that I was meant to do were cancelled – a book tour, a world tour with my band,” she recalls. “I needed to find something to do, to be creative. A lot of the pictures inmy room– of my bookcase, objects, my cat [Cairo, an Abyssinian] – were taken during lockdown.” Graves and cemeteries also figure prominently in the book. “I’mno stranger to the dead,” says Patti. “I’ve lost a lot of people inmy life, and I sometimes visit them. But I’ve also visitedmany people that I didn’t know, but who I greatly admired – it’s a way of having amoment, and quietly thanking them for their work.” One striking portrait shows Patti sitting in her study, ‘thinking of nothing’ – a phrase her mother used to use, and which took her many years to fully understand. “My mother worked very hard – she had four children. She was a waitress, my dad worked in a factory, and they struggled to make ends meet. And sometimes she would just be sitting there, and seemed so deep in thought, I would say: ‘What are you thinking, Mommy?’ And she’d say: ‘Oh, nothing.’ And then a friend of mine took that picture, and askedme the same question, and I said: ‘Oh, nothing.’ Because, you know, sometimes that’s what we say when our thoughts are too far out – when you have to reel them in. So at that moment, I was connecting withmymother and realising that, when she said ‘nothing’, what she reallymeant was ‘everything’.” Beverly Smith had been a nightclub jazz singer in her youth, but by the time Patti and her younger siblings – two sisters and a brother – came along, she was waiting tables in Chicago. Grant Smith, Patti’s father, worked as amachinist at a local electronics plant, beforemoving the family to Philadelphia, thenNew Jersey. Patti worked in a factory here to pay her way through college. At 20, she headed o toManhattan and fell into the orbit of musicians, beat poets and other leading lights of 60s counterculture NewYork. Shemet Robert Mapplethorpe while working in a bookstore and the pair moved into legendary boho hangout The Hotel Chelsea, existing on little more than love and stale bread. (It’s a period of her life vividly chronicled in her award-winningmemoir Just Kids, the result of a promisemade to Robert hours before his death in 1989 from complications arising fromHIV.) It feels like an impossibly heady, romantic time to have been living inManhattan. Did the realitymatch up to the myth? “Well, the reality is everyone was struggling,” says Patti, who was scratching out a living as a performance poet, playwright and occasional rock journalist. “Everyone was worrying how they were going to pay their rent. But it was exciting, in that there were somany interesting people. “Janis Joplin stayed at the Chelsea – her roomwas bigger thanmine. It was very cheap to live inNewYork back then. We were just trying to pay our rent, do our thing, exchange ‘Nomatter what I’ve done, I’ve always kept my vow to keep up the daily practice of doing something creative’
12 24 NOVEMBER 2022 ideas. It was teeming with young people, there was a very intense creative energy. And we were all together – I was a girl, working in a bookstore, rubbing shoulders with Allen Ginsberg and Lou Reed. There were somany great artists coming in and out of the hotel – sometimes you’d see someone like Salvador Dalí. So it was both an extraordinary and a normal life.” By 1975, she’d assembled her own band, the Patti Smith Group, and entered Jimi Hendrix’s Electric Lady studio with The Velvet Underground’s John Cale to record her debut album. With its iconic, defiantly androgynous cover shot (taken by Robert), Horses announced Patti’s arrival as ‘punk’s poet laureate’ – even if themusic itself, with its dense spoken-word passages and avant-garde experimentation, was more art rock, even cabaret, than punk. Though sales weremodest, Horses was hailed by critics and the record’s legacy has only grown over the decades. It’s a staple of all-time best album lists, has influenced artists fromThe Smiths toMadonna, and has even been preserved in the US Library of Congress as a ‘culturally, historically or aesthetically significant’ work. “I’mnot a pop star,” says Patti. “I don’t have the abilities of a pop star. I don’t have the ability to write a song that connects with people in the way our pop stars do. I admire that ability – I just don’t have it. I have di erent abilities. When I recorded Horses, it was not my goal to be rich or successful or famous. I wanted tomake a contribution to our cultural voice… one that was nourished, and created space for new generations. And I think we succeeded in that goal. “I knew that choosing to be an artist, or a poet, came with a lot of sacrifices. So I think for the amount of success that I anticipated, I’ve done very well. I’mespecially happy, at this time of my life, that we havemany young people – especially young girls – in our audience. Their energy and their support, it’s very inspiring.” Twomore albums followed in the late 70s, with 1978’s Easter becoming her most commercially successful o the back of hit single Because the Night, co-written with Bruce Springsteen. But Patti spent most of the 80s and early 90s in semi-retirement, raising her two children, Jesse and Jackson, inMichigan with husband Fred ‘Sonic’ Smith, of incendiary Detroit rockersMC5. When Fred died of a heart attack in 1994 – followed not long afterwards by her brother, Todd – Patti moved back to NewYork andmade a tentative return to live performance, including a tour with Bob Dylan. “He was important tome as a young person, long before I ever met him,” she says of the music icon, who has become a close friend (she even collected his Nobel Literature Prize on his behalf ). “I modelled some of my attitudes, and even the way I dressed, after him.” And today? “I look at him in two ways – he’s a human being – flawed or magnificent, he’s aman. But I also think of himas one of themost important voices of my generation.” It was a generation that found its political voice in the protest movements of the 60s and 70s. “We had the same ideology,” recalls Patti. “We were all against the [Vietnam] war, we were pro-civil rights, human rights, gay rights…” In the decades since, she’s remained a prominent voice on issues ranging fromPalestine and Tibet (which got her banned fromChina) to climate change – but she resists being called an activist. “If you write a poem, it doesn’t make you a poet,” she says. “Real activists – it’s what they do day and night. And it’s a thankless task, when governments and corporations have such power. I mean, activists are the girls and women in Iran right now, trying to achieveminimal freedom, to be themselves, and being killed for it. I can’t comparemyself to those people. I help when I can but, really, I’man artist. That’s what I am.” Jet-lagged or not, Patti is a generous, thoughtful interviewee, her answers often punctuated with a wry, throaty laugh. In her eighth decade, she gives the air of being a woman at peace with herself, if not quite the world. But listening again to the last line of Horses’ final track, Elegie – I think it’s sad, it’s much too bad, that our friends can’t be with us today – Weekend wonders if this is a sentiment that carries more weight now than it did when she was in her twenties. “Well, certainly,” she says. “I’ve lost a lot of friends throughout my life – some of themarguablymy best friends. People I really loved and hoped to have a lifetime with.” It’s a list that, along with her husband, brother and Robert Mapplethorpe, includes her parents, her pianist Richard Sohl, and somany of her counterculture contemporaries. “I was with Allen Ginsberg when he passed away andmy parents. I’ve been privy to the passing of people I love. But we keep our loved ones and our friends alive through our memories, through homage, through walking with them, and keeping themas part of our conversation. As I do withmy son and daughter – we talk about their father almost daily.” As for her own future… “I’ll be 76 [in December], and I knowwe don’t have an infinite amount of time. That’s part of the package of life – that one day our time comes to an end,” she chuckles. “But I take care of myself. I want to be here as long as I can, to be withmy children, and to do work. I want to writemore books. I have a lot of work left to do.” A Book of Days by Patti Smith (Bloomsbury) is out now News&Views F O O D B I T E S Are you a good cook? “I know how to cook. I raised a family – 16 years of making three meals a day for my husband and children – and when I was young I cooked for my siblings.” What are your go-to dishes? “These days, I eat simple, healthy food – I’ll make a couscous or some sh with rosemary potatoes and steamed veg. This morning I woke up at 3am, jet-lagged and hungry, so I had some rye toast with olive oil and cayenne pepper. I was quite happy.” What food says ‘New York’ to you? “The thing about New York is it’s so diverse. On the next block from me, there’s an Israeli restaurant, a pizza parlour, there’s a very good Japanese restaurant, a Mediterranean restaurant, French… All in one block.” ‘I was working in a bookstore rubbing shoulders with Lou Reed. It was an extraordinary and a normal life’ NEW YORK SWAG Patti playing at a gig in 1978 (below); The Hotel Chelsea where Patti stayed in the 60s (below right)
13 24 NOVEMBER 2022 Photographs: WireImage, Shutterstock, Getty Images
1 5 24 NOVEMBER 2022 OFFERS WHAT A SAVE! Waitrose & Partners 12 Belgian Chocolate Proäteroles 20% OFF £2.68/230g (was £3.35) Pro teroles lled with cream, then stacked and topped with Belgian chocolate sauce. Peroni Nastro Azzurro 5% SAVE £3.50 £13/12x330ml (was £16.50, o er ends 1 January) Brewed in Italy since 1963, this beer delivers a crisp, refreshing taste with citrus notes. Waitrose & Partners New York Cheesecake With Salted Caramel & Honeycomb 20% OFF £3.80/463g (was £4.75) Vanilla cheesecake with salted caramel sauce and a honeycomb top. Waitrose & Partners 12 Breaded Halloumi Fries £6/280g or 4 FOR 3 (o er ends 3 January) Crisp halloumi fries with a pomegranate dipping sauce. Waitrose & Partners 6 Vegetable Spring Rolls 25% OFF £2.10/216g (was £2.80) Crispy spring rolls lled with vegetables, beansprouts and rice noodles in a soy and ginger sauce. Waitrose & Partners 12 Ham & Cheese Croquettes £5/240g or 4 FOR 3 (o er ends 3 January) Made with oak-smoked ham, mozzarella and mature Cheddar. Waitrose & Partners British Cooked Chicken Sweet & Smoky Wings 25% OFF £3.26/560g (was £4.35) Cooked in a honey, sweet and smoky marinade. Enjoy hot or cold. Waitrose & Partners Sweet Potato Katsu Bites £5.50/270g or 4 FOR 3 (o er ends 3 January) Crunchy sweet potato bites with a lightly spiced katsu dip. Waitrose & Partners 12 King Prawns In Filo Pastry £6/144g or 4 FOR 3 (o er ends 3 January) Marinated king prawns wrapped in coriander and lo pastry. Heineken Lager SAVE £1.50 £9/10x440ml (was £10.50) Full-bodied and deep golden premium lager with a mild bitter taste and a crisp, clean nish. Settle down to enjoy a feast of pre-Christmas sport with fabulous food and drink from Waitrose – o ers end 29 November unless otherwise stated Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability.
17 24 NOVEMBER 2022 ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Food&Drink Ask anyone what they love most about Christmas dinner, and chances are it’ll be a traditional side dish – the red cabbage, the bread sauce, the pigs in blankets, or perhaps the roasties. Every family has its favourite festive trimmings, and as Martha points out, it’s often not until you spend Christmas at someone else’s house that you realise there’s any other way to do it! This week, as well as Martha’s ultimate stu ng recipe, there are clever twists on traditional sides from Ed Smith that can ring the changes without anyone missing out on the things they love. What’s For Dinner? p18 Short Cuts p23 Too Good ToWaste with Elly Curshen p25 The Best withMartha Collison p26 Festive Veggie Sides with Ed Smith p29 Very Important Producer p34 Wine List with Pierpaolo Petrassi MW p36 Photographs: Sam Folan, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Wei Tang
24 NOVEMBER 2022 1 8 What’s for dinner? Recipes: Mary Gwynn, Photographs: Mowie Kay , Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Tony Hutchinson, Art direction: Pippa Paine If you’re in need of easy, affordableweeknightmeals, look no further – these brilliant dishesmake themost of our Essential products, with a dash of something special fromthe newCooks’ Ingredients range Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V Vegetarian.
24 NOVEMBER 2022 19 Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 35 minutes 1 tbsp coconut oil 2 red onions, cut into wedges 300g Chantenay carrots, trimmed, halved if large 300ml vegetable stock, just-boiled 2-3 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Thai Red Curry Paste, to taste 200ml Essential Coconut Milk 1 stick lemongrass, halved lengthways 200g pack Tenderstem broccoli, halved 3-4 cloves garlic, sliced 2.5cm piece ginger, nely chopped 480g pack 4 Scottish salmon llets Coriander, chopped, to serve Red chilli, sliced, to serve 1 lime, cut into wedges, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Heat the coconut oil in a large, ameproof, deep heavy-based roasting tin until melted. Add the onions and carrots and toss together to coat in the oil. Cook in the oven for 20-25 minutes, turning halfway, until almost tender and starting to brown. 2 Whisk together the stock and curry paste until well combined, then add the coconut milk and lemongrass. Add the broccoli to the roasting tin and scatter with the garlic and ginger. Stir to mix into the other vegetables. Arrange the salmon llets on top, skin-side up, and pour over the hot liquid, ensuring the lemongrass is submerged. 3 Return to the oven for another 12-18 minutes, until the salmon is opaque and akes easily with a fork. Scatter with the coriander and chilli, then serve with the lime wedges. Some steamed rice is delicious alongside. Per serving 1697kJ/407kcals/25g fat/14g saturated fat/18g carbs/13g sugars/6g bre/25g protein/1g salt Thai-inspired salmon & broccoli bake Serves 4 Prepare 20 minutes Cook 35 minutes 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, sliced 1 red pepper, deseeded and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped (optional) 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp harissa paste 400g can Essential Chickpeas In Water, drained 227g can Essential Chopped Tomatoes 200g frozen Essential Whole Leaf Spinach 4 Essential White Free Range Eggs A little sumac, to nish (optional) 1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan or sauté pan. Add the onion, pepper, garlic and chilli. Cook over a low heat for 5-10 minutes, until softened. Stir in the turmeric and harissa and cook for 1 minute more. 2 Add the chickpeas, coat in the spicy mixture, then add the tomatoes. Season and simmer for 5 minutes, until the peppers are tender. Add the spinach, pushing each piece into the sauce to submerge, then cover the pan and cook for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally to break up the spinach. 3 Make 4 shallow dips in the sauce and break in the eggs. Cover the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes more, until the egg whites are just set. Season, then scatter with sumac, if using, and serve immediately. V Per serving 1091kJ/262kcals/14g fat/2.7g saturated fat/16g carbs/5.1g sugars/7.1g bre/15g protein/0.4g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Peppers, chickpeas & spinach with shakshuka-style eggs COOK’S TIP Frozen whole leaf spinach is such a useful product to keep in the freezer. It comes in small, easy-to-add portions and it’s ideal for adding to curries, soups, and egg dishes like this. If you don’t have fresh peppers, use one or two chargrilled ones from a jar and reduce the cooking time. COOK’S TIP Swap the broccoli for kale or green beans or a mix, and the carrots for squash. The sauce works well using just the Thai curry paste, or just the lemongrass, ginger and garlic, although when combined they add a real pop of avour. Fancy chicken instead? Roast a 560g pack Essential British Chicken Thigh Fillets with the onions and carrots, then add the broccoli and sauce and return to the oven for 15 minutes, until thoroughly cooked, there is no pink meat and the juices run clear. Food&Drink SCAN THI S CODE FOR EASYTO SHOP RECI PES Oil (olive or vegetable) Butter Milk Honey Sugar White wine vinegar or malt vinegar Stock cubes Flour (tbsp) Salt Black pepper Garlic Dried mixed herbs Chilli akes Tomato ketchup Tomato purée Wholegrain mustard Soy sauce Curry powder STORECUPBOARD ESSENTIALS Keep these staples to hand as the base for easy weeknight meals You can now add ingredients to your trolley from our recipe pages. Sign in to your account, book a slot and add what you need from the ‘Shop this recipe’ section further down the page.
24 NOVEMBER 2022 21 Serves 2 Prepare 20 minutes Cook 30 minutes 15g pine nuts 4 large at mushrooms, stalks removed and set aside 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 200g Essential 20% Fat British Lamb Mince 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp smoked paprika ½ x 25g pack at leaf parsley, chopped 1 tsp dried oregano 75g Essential Cypriot Halloumi, thinly sliced 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Scatter the pine nuts in a small baking tray and toast in the oven for 5 minutes as it heats up, until golden. Tip onto a plate and cool. Wipe the mushrooms and chop the stalks. Place the mushrooms in the baking tray, stalk-side up so they t neatly. Make shallow slashes across each with a knife and drizzle with 1 tbsp oil. 2 Put the lamb mince, garlic, chopped mushroom stalks, spices, most of the parsley, the oregano and pine nuts into a medium bowl. Season, then mix well using your hands. Divide the mixture between the mushrooms, atten gently, then arrange the halloumi on top. Drizzle with the remaining 1 tbsp oil and bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes, until golden and the lamb is cooked through with no pink meat. Transfer to warm plates (leaving any liquid in the tin), then serve scattered with the remaining parsley. Per serving 2347kJ/567kcals/49g fat/19g saturated fat/2.5g carbs/1.6g sugars/3.1g bre/28g protein/2g salt Greek-style stuffedmushrooms with halloumi Serves 4 Prepare 20 minutes Cook 40 minutes 2 tbsp olive oil 190g pack Cooks’ Ingredients Cooking Chorizo 1 medium onion, nely chopped 2 sticks celery, sliced 3-4 cloves garlic, chopped 100ml dry white wine 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped 2 x 400g cans Essential Butter Beans, drained 400g can Essential Haricot Beans, drained 400g Swiss chard 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and cook the chorizo slices over a high heat to brown on both sides. Turn down the heat and add the onion, celery and garlic. Cook for 5-7 minutes until softened but not browned. 2 Add the white wine, turn up the heat and simmer fast until reduced by ½. Add the tomatoes and beans, season, and return to a gentle heat for 15 minutes until thickened. 3 Tear the leaves from the chard and shred. Finely chop the stalks. Add the stalks to the pan and cook for a few minutes then stir in the shredded leaves and simmer for 5-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chard is tender. Check the seasoning and serve with crusty bread to mop up any juices. Per serving 2132kJ/512kcals/26g fat/8.9g saturated fat/32g carbs/8.1g sugars/17g bre/24g protein/2g salt/ 3 of your 5 a day Chorizo with beans & greens COOK’S TIP This is a great dish to increase your veg intake. Use any mix of green leafy vegetables you have available – spinach, kale, cabbage all work well here. Swap in di erent beans – cannellini or borlotti are particularly good. And of course, you can use pancetta or bacon lardons instead of chorizo, or go meat free and leave out altogether. COOK’S TIP To double up this recipe, or batch cook the lamb meatballs for the freezer, use the whole 500g pack of lamb mince and double the herbs and spices. Use to stu 8 mushrooms, or use ½ now and roll ½ into small balls, freeze on a baking tray in one layer. Pack into a bag or box and freeze for up to 1 month.
23 24 NOVEMBER 2022 Food&Drink Photographs: Mowie Kay , Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Tony Hutchinson, Art direction: Pippa Paine Serves 2 Ready in 25 minutes Cook the burgers according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, mix the shredded vegetables and radishes from the side salad with the white soured cream from the dip trio to make a slaw. Split the brioche buns and toast the cut sides. Spread the base of each roll with guacamole from the dip selection, top with some salad leaves, the burger, slaw and tomato salsa before adding the top of the roll. Serve with any remaining salad and slaw on the side. SHORT CUTS TexMex-inspired burgers & slaw GoVeggie: Spiced Bean Burgers Rainbow side salad Vine ripened tomato salsa, guacamole, sour cream & chive Heston from Waitrose 2 Brioche Burger Buns OurVery Best Dine In ForTwo O er ends 7 February 2023. Selected lines only. Subject to availability. No.1 Parmigiano Reggiano & Tru e Chicken Kiev £8.80/530g No.1 Salted Caramel & Chocolate Pro teroles £4/6s No.1 Triple Cooked Chips £3.50/400g Friday fakeaway
24 NOVEMBER 2022 25 Food&Drink Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 10 minutes 200g leftover roast potatoes, at room temperature ¼ tsp sweet smoked paprika 1 head Essential Spring Greens 2 tsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for frying 1 clove garlic, nely grated 2 British Blacktail Free Range Medium Eggs 2 tbsp garlic mayonnaise 1 tbsp hot chipotle ketchup Pinch cayenne pepper 1 Preheat the oven to 230ºC, gas mark 8. Cut the potatoes into bitesized pieces and spread out on a baking tray. Dust with the paprika and toss well. Place in the hot oven for 7 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, shred the greens into 1cm ribbons and wash in warm water. Shake dry. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the garlic. Cook over a medium heat, until just fragrant. Add the greens and stir fry for 4-5 minutes, until wilted and hot. Set aside and Twice-roasted potatoes with greens, chipotle garlic aïoli & fried eggs Cold roast potatoes. Is there a leftover that elicits quite the same response? People tell me they actually prefer the cold leftovers to the original dish, and they are always a welcome addition to the fridge. There’s so much you can do with them, and they fit into meals with an ease that few leftovers can claim. This week, I’ve explored some options that show o their versatility – crispy chunks in a brunch dish, as a topping for a fish pie (full credit for that brilliant idea tomy editor, Alison), in a frittata and finally, eaten straight, with delicious things to dip into. All of which surely are reason enough tomake extra roast potatoes on purpose next time. @ellypear ROAST POTATOES Too good towaste withElly Curshen keep warm. Fry the eggs in the same pan, using a good amount of hot oil for crispy edges and runny yolks. 3 Mix the garlic mayonnaise with the chipotle ketchup. Divide the greens between 2 plates and top with the hot crispy potatoes. Drizzle with a spoon of the aïoli and sit the fried eggs on top. Season with a dusting of cayenne pepper and a pinch of sea salt akes. Serve with the extra sauce on the side. Per serving 1346kJ/323kcals/19g fat/2.6g saturated fat/25g carbs/6.8g sugars/6.1g bre/10g protein/0.7g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day 1Cold roast potatoes make a great topping for a sh pie. Slice them about 1cm thick, mix with grated parmesan and Cheddar and scatter handfuls over your favourite sh pie lling to give an amazing crunchy texture, with lots of crispy edges. Bake until piping hot, golden and crunchy. 2Many people say not much beats eating cold, leftover roast potatoes standing at the fridge door. You need punchiness (spice, sharpness, smoky avours etc) when picking a great thing to dip them into – hot gravy, creamed horseradish, nutty dukkah, chilli sauce and English mustard are all fabulous. If you do want to reheat, a quick blast on a baking tray at 230ºC, gas mark 8 will give hot, crispy spuds. In a rush? Cut them small to speed things up. 3 Frittatas are a wonderful use of all sorts of leftovers – slice leftover roast potatoes and fry in olive oil and butter until hot and crispy, then add beaten eggs, a big handful of grated cheese (mixed is ne), plenty of seasoning and whatever leftover cooked vegetables you have that need using up, such as chopped cooked broccoli or cooked peas and carrots. S C A N T HI S CODE F OR MOR E R E CI P E S Photographs: Hannah Hughes, Food styling: Joss Herd, Styling: Wei Tang ELLY’S TIP Use a mixture of mayonnaise and sriracha as a good alternative for aïoli and the hot chipotle ketchup. MORE LEFTOVER IDEAS