Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 619

36 6 OCTOBER 2022 Weekending SLOW CLUB Demand for slow cookers is on the rise again, and as household budgets feel the pinch and winter approaches, the timing is perfect. Less expensive, well-marbled cuts such as beef shin or chuck work best for tasty casseroles, or make midweek pork meatballs (choose fattier mince) or tagine using value-for-money lamb neck. Find recipe inspiration at waitrose.com and check out the John Lewis JLSC458 Slow Cooker (£50/each). It has a six-litre capacity which is large enough to make nourishing and a ordable family meals and is ideal for batch cooking. SEASONAL OFFERINGS A Christmas negroni (far left); Parmigiano Reggiano & cracked black pepper panettone (left) “I love reading about food or watching cookery programmes on TV, but I wasn’t seeing any of the foods I grew up with and cherish,” says Lerato Umah-Shaylor. “I began to wish that someone, anyone, would write a book about African food.” It’s a void that Lerato – a Nigerian TV presenter, food writer and cookery teacher, who lives in Sussex with her English husband – decided to fill herself. The result is Africana, a collection of recipes drawn fromall over the continent, many of which have proven popular at her immersive supper clubs and cookery classes in London and the South East. Dishes range fromaMoroccan-inspired harissa leg of lamb and a South African vegan bobotie to Ethiopian berbere chicken stew and a classic jollof rice. For Lerato, these foods, though representative of di erent cultural traditions, all share something essentially African. It’s there in the passing down of recipes – the tradition of grandmothers teachingmothers teaching daughters. It’s there, too, in the waymeals are platters to share, rather than plated individually. And it’s there in how guests are received. “A visitor to an African home is treated like royalty,” she says. Many recipes draw uponNigerian traditions Lerato grew up with – from street foods such as ewa agoyin (black-eyed beanmash) to home cooking such as egusi, themelon-seed soup she teams with pounded yams. “This really tugs at my heart string,” she says. “It was the first thingmymother taught me how tomake.” Recipes also reflect Lerato’s pan-African outlook. So Tunisian shakshuka is served with sub-Saharan plantain, and chicken piri piri fromMozambique is spiced withWest African Scotch bonnets rather than East African bird’s eyes. “I want this food to live on in the hearts of Africans and non-Africans,” she says. “In the hearts of all food lovers.” Africana: Treasured Recipes and Stories FromAcross the Continent (HQ) is out now. Story: Paul Dring AFRICANA Book of theWeek Lerato Umah-Shaylor Pick up great gifts and food inspiration as festival returns to brighten upwinter It’s time to get festive! The Waitrose Winter Food & Drink Festival, at Tobacco Dock, London, from 18-20 November, returns to sprinkle some stardust – and help nd perfect gifts for food lovers. In a packed weekend programme, pick up tips for canapés and exciting cocktails, join Waitrose Cookery School for handson masterclasses, or make a stunning seasonal wreath for your front door. Waitrose suppliers will be in conversation on stage, as well as o ering tastes of delicious, seasonal food and drink. When you’re done sampling, pull up a chair at the Champagne bar or let your hair down at the new kitchen disco, guaranteed to send you home smiling. waitrosefestivals.com HOME COMFORTS Lerato Umah-Shaylor (above left); egusi – melon-seed soup with pounded yams (top) – and spiced island coconut sh curry (above right) from her book Africana Photography: Tara Fisher/ HQ, HarperCollins, Dennis Pedersen, Gabriel Waterhouse, Myles New Photography/ Waitrose, Fjona Hill

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