Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 619

VODKA SPECIAL Eight pages packed with brilliant brands, flavours and cocktails TV CHEFS 100 years of BBC programmes that ignited our love of cooking p6 SUE BARKER Darling of Wimbledon tells it like it is in revealing new book p10 OFFERS Enjoy great savings on selected products p48 WeekendFREE Issue 619 | 6 October 2022 BRING THE ZING It’s now even easier to elevate the simplest of dishes with our bigger, broader and better Cooks’ Ingredients range – and Chetna Makan shows us how with her shio koji salmon & greens, p2 & 26

2 6 OCTOBER 2022 News&Views Home cooks are always keen to try new flavours – and we’ve becomemore adventurous since the pandemic, according to a new survey. When 2,000 people were asked whether they’d buy an unfamiliar herb or spice if a recipe required it, 84% say they’d be very or somewhat willing to seek it out. And when asked how inclined they are to try new flavours generally, 73% say they’re keen to give their taste buds a shake-up. The survey, commissioned forWaitrose, also shows that we’ve becomemore experimental with herbs and spices since lockdown, when the boom in home cooking began – 27% say they aremore A cooking boom in lockdown inspired a culinary adventure in our kitchens – and the trend shows no sign of slowing down, writes Emma Higginbotham GLOBAL FLAVOURS FOR HOME COOKS taste sensations Cooks’ Ingredients Ramen Paste (left); Mandy Yin (below) is one of the chefs and restaurateurs who inspired the new range adventurous now, with just 5% saying they are less so than before. This echoes figures from Waitrose. In 2020, sales of its own-label Cooks’ Ingredients range – which includes herbs, spices, pastes, oils and sauces fromaround the globe – were up 25% as people embraced cooking and experimented with exciting flavours to remind themof holidays abroad andmeals out. TimDaly, Partner and product developer, says he’s not surprised by the survey results, and predicts a growing demand for flavour-packed ingredients as people continue to cook from scratch. “With the rising cost of living, customers are tryingmore andmore to replicate that restaurant experience at home,” he says. “Cooking is a hugely important part of our customers’ daily lives and we know they look to us for inspiration in the kitchen.” Tomeet the demand, the supermarket’s Cooks’ Ingredients range has been relaunched and expanded. Inspired by global restaurant menus, social media trends and bestselling cookbooks, more than 40 new products have been added, including frozen wild garlic, Japanese seasoning shio koji, and cacio e pepe paste for making a quick version of the TikTok favourite pasta dish. With a focus on elevating everyday dishes, there’s also tru e salt to sprinkle over risotto, flu ymashed potato or even vanilla ice cream, cinnamon sugar to add aromatic sweetness to bakes, and flavour-packed fats such as miso butter, which gives a deep umami hit to soups and sauces, or whenmelted over steak or fish. “The new range is all about unleashing creativity,” says Tim. “One of my favourites is the green tikkamasala paste. People are familiar with a red tikkamasala, but this is herby and spicy, and so versatile. Use it as amarinade, swirl it into soup, stir it through rice or grains, or spread it over chicken and potatoes for your Sunday roast.” Packaging for the 450-strong range has also been updated, withmost labels including QR codes to take customers to tips and recipes. And packets, bottles and jars aremore environmentally friendly – 62 tonnes of packaging has been removed, including 41 tonnes of plastic. The Cooks’ Ingredients range has continued to evolve over the years to reflect changing tastes and trends. First launched in 2005, it centredmainly on baking staples and herbs and spices for Indian, Italian and Chinese cuisines. Today, products are sourced fromas far afield asMalaysia, Mexico and theMiddle East, inspired by the food of chefs and restaurateurs such asMandy Yin, Thomasina Miers and NoorMurad. “These unusual and unfamiliar ingredients can give a real twist to your cooking,” says Tim, adding that the range is accessible for all levels of cooks. “It’s from simple things like fresh basil, which you could add to fresh tomatoes and olive oil for a side salad, up to something like our gunpowder spice blend, for which the QR code will direct you to some fantastic recipes. They’re vibrant and flavourful, and give cooks of all abilities the confidence tomake delicious dishes at home.” new ideas Wild garlic, tru e salt and shio koji (top); chips with tru e salt (centre) cacio e pepe paste for pasta Cover Photography: Mowie Kay, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Max Robinson

3 6 OCTOBER 2022 67% Raymond Blanc may have brought us his French style of home cooking, but it’s British apples and pears that impress the TV chef and restaurateur. As orchards yield their autumn crop, he points out that we’re the greatest apple and pear nation, thanks to centuries of experience and an ideal climate. We should support UK growers and enjoy their produce, he says, as it’s “some of the finest, high-quality fruit in the world”. Raymond (right), who is partnering with the growing organisation British Apples and Pears, says the fruits not only play a starring role in winter puddings, such asMaman Blanc’s famous apple tart, but they are also perfect for snacking on. “Apples and pears are one of the best-value snacks, o ering great taste, ample health benefits, value for money and storability,” says Raymond.“They travel minimal foodmiles to reach our supermarket shelves, whichmeans they’re also the ideal environmental choice.” The British gala apple is one of his favourites. “This sweet and delicate apple, with its red and golden hue, has a great crunch,” he says. Cox apples also win favour for their “great flavour and aromatics”, as well the fact they keep their shape when cooked. “They are brilliant for tarte tatin or chopped intomu nmixes, they pair well with rich cheeses, and are ideal chopped into a salad with blue cheese and celery.” British Conference pears are another top choice, being “fragrant, classic and delicious with lots of sweetness,” says Raymond. He adds: “They go beautifully in salads, or as a purée on porridge or in bircher muesli.” Due to good weather this spring and summer, the quality and quantity of this year’s crop is high, with growers predicting a full yearround supply. You can enjoy the pick of the seasonwith theWaitrose Best of British selection. It includes some varieties that are only available for a fewweeks a year. Anna-Marie Julyan A four-day week pilot scheme has been given the seal of approval from participants so far, with 86% of respondents involved saying they would be ‘extremely likely’ or ‘likely’ to consider retaining the shorter working week after the six-month trial period. The study, run by 4 Day Week Global, is midway through, with 46% of respondents reporting that their business productivity has ‘maintained around the same level’, while 34% report that it has ‘improved slightly’, and 15% say it has ‘improved signifcantly’. Billed as having the potential to be ‘a triple-dividend policy, which can simultaneously improve human, economic and ecological wellbeing’ the trial involves 3,300 UK workers across 70 businesses, ranging from a fsh and chip shop to fnancial institutions. FOUR-DAY WEEK GETS GREEN L IGHT G O O D N E W S I N B R I E F This week’s uplifting stories fromAnna-Marie Julyan Affordable art The National Gallery has launched a pay what you wish scheme for the rst major exhibition of Lucian Freud’s work in 10 years. Art lovers can view more than 60 of his paintings for as little as £1 on Friday evenings (until 22 January 2023). Meanwhile, London’s Battersea Arts Centre has extended its own pay what you can programme, launched last year, with the majority of tickets for its performances available on that basis. Boost for beavers The beaver’s talent for helping to combat climate change by restoring waterways, wetlands and biodiversity will be harnessed with a strategy for Scotland to expand the population to more lochs, burns and rivers. Since being reintroduced 13 years ago, there are now more than 1,000 beavers and government agency NatureScot will o er support with a new beaver advisory group, more releases and help for land managers living alongside them. Rising tide of solar Bobbing on Portugal’s Alqueva reservoir, 12,000 solar panels span an area the size of four football pitches. Europe’s largest solar farm on a manmade reservoir generates enough power for more than 30% of the region’s population. Launched this summer, it’s part of a trend towards oating solar power plants. Since 2015, global capacity has grown from 68 to 5,000 megawatts, and is set to quadruple within ve years. Go for the glow A Cornish pub has gone back to its 18th-century roots after rising bills prompted ‘candlelit Mondays’. At The Masons Arms in Camelford, Cornwall, punters chat over a pint or pie of the day by candlelight (the kitchen and loos are thankfully exempt). The landlords thought it was a better response than cutting the menu or opening hours. The percentage of people who voted to legalise same-sexmarragies, surrogate pregnancies and adoption of children by same-sex couples in Cuba. Following a rare referendum, themajority voted in favour of the newFamily Code. Following the result, president Miguel DíazCanel, tweeted: “Love is now the law.” high praise Raymond Blanc is a fan of British apples UK is best for apples and pears, says TV chef Photographs: Con Poulos, Louise Hagger, Food styling: Sian Davies, Styling: Wei Tang, Stock Photographs: Getty Images, Shutterstock, Lorne Gill/NatureScot

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5 6 OCTOBER 2022 ANNA SHEPARD Week 36: Learning to darn Sustainable living News&Views Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart Photography: Getty Images, Kimberley Espinel, @thelittleplantation It’s that time of year when I dig out my winter tights, only to find that most pairs have ladders or holes in the toe. Ditto jumpers withmoth damage. This usually prompts a trip to the shops to restock, but this year I’mgoing to domore sewing. Darning is not new tome. I once recruited mymum for a lesson. She left me with a little woodenmushroomand thread in di erent colours, but these have been neglected. Mostly, I throw out any holey undergarments, or push them into a textile recycling bin. But the fashion industry produces 10%of global carbon emissions, says the United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Textiles in landfill releasemethane, plus throwing out clothes also wastes the carbon required to produce them. To refreshmy darning skills, I watch a fewThrifty Stitcher tutorials on YouTube. Luckily, the same method is required for all holes – take a bit of the fabric around the hole, then stitch across it in both directions. Most people use a yarn in a similar colour to the garment, but making a statement with contrasting colours is also a thing. Visible mending celebrates darning rather than disguising it, according to textiles artist Celia Pym (@celiapymon Instagram). Turns out that darning is also a great excuse to sit in front of the TV, while the kids clear up dinner. I tell them I’m tackling something important and sustainable, even if darning a sock only takes 10minutes. MORE PUPILS COULD MISS OUT ON FREE SCHOOL MEALS The number of children who can’t have free school meals, even though they’re living in poverty, is likely to rise this autumn, a charity has warned. Across England, one in three of the 800,000 school-age children living in povertymiss out on this support, according to Child Poverty Action Group (CPAG). Themain reasons are restrictive eligibility criteria – a household on charity book Turkish eggs with feta from Eat with Beder universal credit in Englandmust earn less than £7,400 per year (after tax, and not including benefits), regardless of family size – and a lack of universal provision. This contrasts with Scotland andWales, which aremoving towards free school meals for all primary school children. To help the cause, charities such as Chefs in Schools and BiteBack 2030 are calling on the government to extend free school meals to all children in poverty. An online petition at biteback2030.com is urging people to sign it, and also write to theirMPs to raise awareness. “Those on low incomes are being hit by a lack of eligibility for free school meals combining with rising cost of living pressures,” says Sara Ogilvie, policy director at CPAG. “Now families even above that level are starting to struggle to make ends meet too.” A recent video on charity Chefs in Schools’ Instagramaccount showed a dinner lady fromLancashire describing how, in the summer term, she had to turn away 10-15 children every day because they had no lunchmoney. “I’mdreading October,” she says. “Something has to give, and it shouldn’t be children’s spirits.” Newcookbook to get people talking A new charity cookbook launches on World Mental Health Day (10 October) with personal re ections and recipes from contributors including Dame Joanna Lumley, entrepreneur Steven Bartlett and Partner and John Lewis Partnership chairman Dame Sharon White. Eat with Beder (Meze Publishing) features more than 70 recipes, from Turkish eggs with feta and chilli butter to miso mushroom dumplings, as well as meditations on the importance of self-care and talking to others. “Food is an amazing way to bring people together while providing a chance to softly raise awareness around the topics of mental health and suicide prevention,” says Razzak Mirjan, who founded the charity Beder in memory of his brother, who died by suicide aged 18.

6 6 OCTOBER 2022 100 YEARS OF BROADCASTING FOOD News&Views In focus Everyone has to eat, and everyone needs inspiration for what to put on their plate, so it’s no surprise that cooking shows have been a BBCmainstay since its launch in 1922. The first days of radio cookery are lost in the airwaves, but with the dawn of television – and the Beeb’s mission to inform, educate and entertain – countless chefs have shown us how a domestic chore can be a real pleasure. At your service Early television sets were so expensive that those wealthy enough to afford themdidn’t domuch cooking. They had servants for that. Hence, in January 1937, those affluent viewers watched episode one of Cook’s Night Out – which was essentially about how to cope when your staff leave you in the lurch. The 15-minute showwas presented live by Marcel Boulestin, proprietor of Restaurant Boulestin, London’s priciest place to eat. The Radio Times preview said he would ‘demonstrate before the camera the cooking of an omelette’. Evidently, the slot was far too long to just prepare the eggy treat, soMarcel rustled up a hollandaise sauce to boot. The original celebrity chefs In the 40s, TV sets becamemoremainstream and, as cooking shows took off, the celebrity chef was born. Among the first was Philip Harben, an ex-forces cook with a neat beard and natty striped apron, whose 1946 show Cookery made himan instant hit. Others includedMarguerite Patten, creator of delightful dishes fromdismal wartime rations, and Zena Skinner, who is best remembered for gauging whether spaghetti is cooked by throwing it against a wall to see if it sticks. Down to Earth andmotherly, her goal was to be ‘the housewife’s friend’. No-nonsense cooking Entirely indifferent tomaking friends was Fanny Cradock, who debuted with Kitchen Magic in 1955. Clad in frothy ballgowns and pantomime damemake-up, Fanny was a complexmix of charm, condescendence and downright ferocity, particularly with Johnnie, her henpecked co-star and husband (who in fact wasn’t her husband at all). Her ideas were often unusual – a 1975 Christmas series featuredmincemeat pancakes, green mashed potato, and instructions to “think of somebody you never liked” before pricking your goose’s skin – but audiences adored her. It’s a Delia Less sparkly than Fanny, but decidedlymore helpful was Delia Smith, whose Cookery Course (1978-1981) taught viewers classic culinary skills, rather than blinding themwith fancy concoctions. The first to take the cooking show out of the studio and into her own home kitchen, Delia guided both beginners and old hands through foolproof recipes, be it pâtés, preserves or puddings. The 'Delia effect' led to shops running out of the ingredients and gadgets she used on air. Even today, her name is synonymous with reliability. “It’s a Delia.” Enough said. Igniting our taste buds By the early 80s, home cooks were hungry for more adventurous fare. Step forward actress-turned-food-writerMadhur Jaffrey who, with her show Madhur Jaffrey’s Indian Cookery (1982), had a big hand in turning us into a nation of curry lovers. Thrilled by her success, BBC producers began a two-year odyssey to discover a ‘real’ Chinese cook. They found KenHom, a Chinese-American chef who, likeMadhur, would help elevate our tastes tomoremulticultural delights. Before 1984, when Ken revealed how to whip up stir fries in KenHom’s Chinese Cookery, the humble beansprout had seemed daringly exotic. Flamboyant Floyd Characterful presenters were clearly a hit, and nobody was more colourful than Keith Floyd (left). Despite being an untrained chef, his Bristol restaurant was hugely popular, and his likeability saw him scoring cooking spots on local TV and radio, before he was headhunted to present Floyd on Fish (1985). Famed for his chaotic cooking style – often one-handed, given that he’d have a large glass of red in the other – the tipsy gastronaut helped turn the genre from instruction to entertainment, with shows filmed both outdoors and around the world. The real deal Thanks to Keith, cooking shows took a relaxed turn at the end of the last century. You’d never get away with pitching presenters as fat, hairy or (God forbid) naked nowadays. But for the Two Fat Ladies, aka Clarissa DicksonWright and Jennifer Paterson (1996-99), Hairy Bikers DaveMyers and Si King (2004 onwards) and Jamie Oliver in The Naked Chef (1999-2001) – the naked referred to themore pared back food prep, not clothing – it was a winning label. So was the formula of these shows: hearty grub, banter with the crew and cool rides – motorbikes and a sidecar for the Hairys and Fatties, and a scooter for young Jamie for their culinary adventures. As the BBC celebrates its centenary on 18 October, Emma Higginbotham looks back at the ever-evolving food programmes that kept the nation cooking

7 6 OCTOBER 2022 FI GLOVER Inmy opinion As someone who spends most of their working life doing something with audio, I’mdrawn to stories about sound. The headline is often obscure, but this week, there’s a story that’s relevant tomany of us: researchers have found that listening to soothingmusic can stop you from snacking. We all recognise the benefits of calmingmusic. Spa users know that panpipe Celine Dion covers and tinkling whale music are essential to creating a stress-busting ambience. Anyone who has ever stepped foot in Classic FM’s HQ knows that it operates the radio station fromamassive bean bag, snuggled together with faux fur rugs over them, while toasting their tootsies on a warming fire. I made that up, but I think they should consider it. Our ears play a vital part in regulating our brains and our stress responses – calmmusic can lower blood pressure, heart rates, cortisol spikes and anxiety levels. But we didn’t know, until now, that it could stop us fromeating toomuch. This new research comes fromDr Helen Coulthard from DeMontfort University and Dr Annemieke van den Tol of LincolnUniversity, who asked 120 adults to choose three songs – a comforting one, a distracting one and one they turn to when stressed or frustrated. Their eating habits were thenmonitored in stressful situations, where they were encouraged to listen to their mini playlists at the same time. The ones who put on the comforting tune ate 35% less than those who chose the other tunes. It’s a staggering di erence. These people weren’t choosing panpipemuzak or whale calls – they choose tracks such as Bowie’s Life onMars and The Lazy Song by BrunoMars. This was not drool-inducing slumber music, so it’s a change in habits we can all make easily. Phew! Trying to change eating habits often involves spending time andmoney on new books, plans, gadgets and apps, and once I start that, I get stuck in the wheel of thinking about food. Then I head to the fridge. I’ve been tempted to do that this week because it’s been a tad stressful inmy audio world. I’ve said goodbye to Radio 4’s The Listening Project and left the BBC. Along with Jane Garvey, I’mheading to new radio pastures, which feels like an exciting adventure, but is also quite daunting. These things might usually have sent me into a tailspin involving grab bags of crisps and hunks of cheese. But now I’mpopping on a Luther Vandross track and hoping to sail past the snack drawer. I’ll keep you posted on how this goes. Actually, I might need a whole album. Fi and Jane start a new show on Times Radio from3-5pm, Monday to Thursday, onMonday (10 October). @fifiglover fresh-faced GreggWallace. Back under the studio lights of the olden days and featuring inspirational guest chefs, its success spawnedmany a weekend show on rival channels. Children and hungover people’s loss was the home cook’s gain – now hosted by genial chef Matt Tebbutt, more than amillion people tune in every week. A century on Today, the BBC’s cooking output continues to be prolific and popular with home cooks. It’s a tasty blend of mononyms including the likes of Nigella, Nigel and Nadiya, alongside gastronomic travelogues, informative guides and edge-of-the-seat competitions such as Best Home Cook, Great BritishMenu and, most recently, BBCThree’s Hungry For It – a kind of MasterChef for cool people. What would Monsieur Boulestinmake of its exuberant judge Big Zuu, who, for his Algerian borek recipe on Saturday Kitchen this summer, whipped up a lovely-looking omelette? We think he’d approve. Reality bites Turning cooking into a competition with ‘ordinary’ civilians was another ratings hit. As well as primetime favourite MasterChef, rarely off-screen since its 1990 debut, daytime staples included Ready Steady Cook (19942010) and Can’t Cook, Won’t Cook (19952000), both fronted by perma-cheery Ainsley Harriott (right), and both indirectly inspiring The Great British Bake Off (from 2010). The baking behemoth needs no further explanation, other than to say it launched the careers of far-from-ordinary civilians such as JohnWhaite, Nadiya Hussain andWaitrose’s ownMartha Collison. Weekendwonder Saturdaymornings used to be the preserve of children’s shows, but in 2002 the pantsswinging, cartoons and gunge gave way to Saturday Kitchen, originally hosted by a top chefs on tv (Clockwise from top left) Delia Smith’s Cookery Course, 1990; Madhur Ja rey’s Indian Cookery, 1982; Fanny Cradock on Problem Cooking, 1967; The Naked Chef, Jamie Oliver, 1999; Nadiya’s British Food Adventure, 2017; Marcel Boulestin in Dish Of The Month, 1938 ‘Calmmusic can lower blood pressure, heart rates and anxiety levels. But we didn’t know it could stop us from eating toomuch’ The journalist and broadcaster has her say Photography: BBC, Getty Images

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6 OCTOBER 2022 9 News&Views Almost onemillionmiles above us, the JamesWebb Space Telescope (JWST) is orbiting the sun. Hailed by US space agency Nasa as a ‘newway to see the universe’, the space telescope (above) is the world’s largest andmost powerful astronomical instrument. The JWSTwas 30 years in themaking before it was launched on Christmas Day last year. It has three infrared instruments to study the origins of the universe and the formation of galaxies, stars, and planets. Its 18 hexagonal mirrors – which fold back inside the rocket when not in use – allow it to have the largest possible reflective surface area with which tomake observations. Back on planet Earth, World Space Week, which ends onMonday (10 October), celebrates space and sustainability by examining how technology such as the JWST could help us address the dangers our planet faces. A collaboration betweenNasa and the European and Canadian space agencies , the JWSTwill also enable us tomonitor the weather on far-o planets and their moons, to shed light on our own climate patterns. A deeper understanding of Venus, for example, could help with our battle against global warming – the planet’s atmosphere is filled with CO2, which creates a greenhouse e ect making it 100 times hotter than Earth. Nasa administrator Bill Nelson says the telescope will transformour understanding of space. “It will help uncover the answers to questions we don’t even yet know to ask... questions that will help us better understand our universe and humanity’s place within it.” OUT OF THIS WORLD The big picture Photography: Paopano / Alamy Stock Photo

1 0 6 OCTOBER 2022 News&Views Sue Barker doesn’t really give interviews. Like the late HerMajesty The Queen, she prefers to keep her own counsel, and has largely shunned themedia spotlight since retiring from the international tennis circuit four decades ago. But now the 66-year-old is ready to have her say – in a bracingly forthright newmemoir, Calling the Shots, and in what turns out to be a no less candid conversation with Weekend to promote it. The book was, in part, a promise to her latemother Betty, who passed away earlier this year at the grand age of 100. “Sadly, she died before it came out,” says Sue. “She had dementia, and had forgotten a lot of things, so she’d have loved to for us to have read it together. Because obviously she lived through it all withme – all the highs and lows.” There’s certainly no shortage of those in the book. But Susan Barker’s early life was defined by two particular strokes of luck. One was being born in Paignton on the English Riviera, close to the British tennis mecca of Torquay. And the other was being selected at school, aged 11, for coaching by local tennis guru Arthur Roberts. “It all just fell into place,” Sue tells Weekend fromher home in the Cotswolds. “If I’d been born a few years earlier or later, if I’d been born fivemiles away, if my sister had passed her 11-plus [meaning Sue would have followed her to the local grammar, instead of being taught by tennis-loving nuns at theMarist School], none of it would have happened.” In fact, she was lucky to be alive at all. When Betty fell pregnant sixmonths after giving birth to Sue’s brother Neil, she decided she couldn’t a ord a third child on her husband Bob’s salary as a brewery rep. And so, as Sue rather matter-offactly relates it in the book: “One night she drank toomuch gin and bounced herself down the stairs,” hoping to trigger amiscarriage. “Possibly that’s why I don’t like gin,” chuckles Sue, with gallows humour. “But I’mglad I hung in there. My mumand I were incredibly close. It was a very loving family.” (As a young baby she also narrowly survived whooping cough – she stopped breathing several times – and her older sister Jane throwing her out of amoving car. It’s honestly amiracle her autobiography got to progress beyond her first birthday.) As for Arthur Roberts… “He was just themost incredible man,” says Sue. “He knew how to get the best out of people. He taught me somuch that I’ve taken through the whole of my life – throughmy television as well as my tennis career – about having the guts to go for it, and not being afraid to fail.” Arthur was an unforgiving, “hard as nails” taskmaster, with a “brusque” manner (it was he who insisted she shorten Susan, which he hated, to Sue). But his only desire was to see his young charges succeed. Sue’s first coaching session cost £1 – and that was the onlymoney Arthur ever took fromhis prize pupil. “Years later, when I tried to pay himback, he made a secret deal withmy dad to invest themoney that I thought I was giving him into an annuity for me,” she reveals. “And I was earning goodmoney – nothing like players today, but even in the 70s I was earningmore than £100k a year. He was just themost unbelievable, wonderful man.” At 18, Sue waved goodbye to her parents and flew o to her new rental home inNewport Beach, California, fromwhere she would join the fledglingWomen’s Tennis Association tour of America. She quickly climbed the rankings, with victory in the 1976 French Open, aged 20, helping push her to world number three. She assumed, she says, that there would bemanymore Grand Slam titles, but defeat to STRA I GHT DOWN THE L INE After years of keeping her personal life under wraps, Sue Barker is finally ready to tell her story. “I had to be honest,” she tells Paul Kirkley

1 1 6 OCTOBER 2022 Photography: Vincent Dolman

12 6 OCTOBER 2022 Martina Navratilova in theWimbledon quarter-finals a few weeks later dented her confidence. The following year, she looked set tomeet her great British rival VirginiaWade in theWimbledon final, but unexpectedly crashed out after a shocking semi-final performance against Betty Stöve. These matches would prove to be a pivotal moment in Sue’s life: “I was never the same player again,” she writes in Calling the Shots. “Those losses broke something inside of me.” The 1977 defeat also played out against a distracting personal psychodrama – the reclusive Arthur Roberts had promised to put in a rare appearance to watch her play, but never turned up, leaving his protégée to search the Centre Court crowd in vain for her mentor. “I begged and begged him to come,” says Sue. “I’mnot making excuses – I played the worst match of my life, and I have no one else to blame for that but me. But I would have loved him to be there.” In 1982, Sue embarked on a brief romance with Cli Richard – and has spent the four decades since being constantly reminded of it, not just by tabloids (hence the 40-year media silence), but by Cli himself, who, much to her ba ement, has continued to frame their relationship as “the one who got away”. In the book, Sue finally breaks her silence – dedicating a whole chapter to venting her frustration. “I had to write about it,” she says. “I couldn’t write a book without being honest. It’s been a part of my life, and I couldn’t ignore it. Cli has had his say, and this was my chance to havemine. “You know, he’s a fabulous guy, we had a great time, and I’m sad that, over the years, he’s constantly brought up why he didn’t want tomarryme – as if he’d upset and disappointed me. I didn’t think that was fair onmy husband. We were literally coming back fromour honeymoon,” she recalls of her 1988marriage to landscape gardener and formerMet Police detective Lance Tankard, “and there was this huge billboard outside the newsagents: ‘Why I wouldn’t marry Sue, by Cli .’ That was really sad, because he knew this was mymoment of happiness, so that did upset me. “And then it happened again and again and again, and I just kept thinking: ‘This has got to stop at some point.’ I’ve told his agent, his manager, his friends: ‘Please don’t talk about me.’ I still feel upset by it, and let down by him.” A year after her retirement from tennis in 1984, an “utterly miserable” Sue was rescued from the career doldrums when she landed a job as a sports commentator on Australia’s Channel 7. A job at Sky TV in the UK followed, and in 1993 she was poached by the BBC, going on to front everything from the Olympics (it was she who promised us “the greatest show on Earth” before the London 2012 opening ceremony) to Sports Personality of the Year, as well as being themuchloved face of Wimbledon TV coverage for 30 years. Two personal highlights were hosting Grandstand, and her 24-year stint on AQuestion of Sport. “Grandstand was a programme I grew up watching withmy dad, and I never imagined I’d be sitting in that chair,” she says. “That and AQuestion of Sport were the two things I always watched withmy dad, so that’s why they probablymean themost to me. Sadly, we lost my dad in 1990, before I joined the Beeb. But I know he’d have been very proud.” Sue kicked down the door for women in sports broadcasting. “It was a whole di erent era,” she says. “I knew that I wasn’t being paid as much as my fellow presenters – even those who weren’t doing as much as me – but it was just the way it was. Thankfully, it’s changed now. I think, certainly as far as the BBC goes, there are probablymore female presenters thanmale now.” In her memoir, Sue is typically forthright about the News&Views BIG INFLUENCES Sue’s rst coach Arthur Roberts (right); celebrating her mother Betty’s 100th birthday (below); Photography: Sue Barker, Getty Images, BBC, Kai Mayfair

13 6 OCTOBER 2022 way the BBC is going... There’s a lot of new talent coming on board and that’s great. But I did think: ‘I’mnot going to allow that to happen again.’ Plus, it was a perfect year to sign o , with it being the centenary [of the currentWimbledon site], andmy 30th year.” Her enduringmemory of this summer’s tournament, she says, took place on Centre Court – that hallowed theatre of dreams that had been the venue for some of themost exciting, andmost heartbreaking, moments of Sue’s life – when she received a standing ovation during the Parade of Champions. “That was so emotional – when the crowd started standing I absolutely went. I was in floods of tears,” she says. “Then it suddenly dawned onme, hang on aminute, I’m standing here on this court, and there’s Billie Jean [King], Roger [Federer], Novak [Djokovic], Rod [Laver], Björn[Borg], Chrissy [Evert] and I thought: ‘No, look, this is their day,’ and I managed to bring it round. But it meant the world tome.” Of course, it’s likely she’d never have had her long second career as a broadcaster (for which she was made a CBE last year) if the first hadn’t ended in disappointment. “My dream as a little girl hitting against the garage wall didn’t come to fruition,” she writes in Calling the Shots. “But it opened up other opportunities. If it’s possible to be at peace with yourself, and yet have a smidge of regret, that’s how I feel about thatWimbledon semi-final.” “I hope the book doesn’t come across as always whingeing?” she asks, suddenly anxious it’s all sounding a bit negative. Not at all, Weekend assures her. We’ve just chosen to focus on the juicy bits. (For how she accidentally created an entire branch of the Royal Family, her private lunch with The Queen – and what she stole from it – andmore, you’ll have to read the book.) “Because I’ve had themost amazing fun, and two incredibly rewarding careers,” she says. “You’ve got to have bumps along the way to appreciate the good bits.” And next? Having broken radio silence and lobbed a few truth bombs into the air, has Sue developed a taste for speaking her mind? “Actually,” she says, “I think I might keepmy head down for a fewmonths…” F O O D B I T E S manner in which she and team captainsMatt Dawson and Phil Tufnell were sacked from AQuestion of Sport in 2021. “We knew our time was up, and I don’t have a problemwith that – I don’t own the show, and the boys don’t own the show,” she says. “I just felt we were left out to dry a little bit.” Having been let go during a five-minutemeeting “in an anonymous back room in Salford”, Sue was incensed when the BBC pressured her to say she’d chosen to ‘step aside’. “They askedme to say I was leaving for the good of the show,” she recalls. “And I thought: ‘What does that mean? That I’m not good enough?’ I didn’t feel that was fair onme, so I said: ‘No, I can’t say that.’ It would have been nice to have been given a slightlymore dignified exit froma show that had been a huge part of my life,” she sighs. “But, for whatever reason, they chose not to.” The experience, she admits, has left her “slightly damaged” – and was amajor contributing factor in her stepping down from Today atWimbledon this year. “Look, I’m66, I wasn’t going to have toomanymore years left, and it was nice that they’d o eredme another three. But I just sensed, with the Calling the Shots (Ebury Spotlight) by Sue Barker is out now. Sue Barker Live: Calling the Shots tours until 21 October. See penguin.co.uk/events ‘That was so emotional – when the crowd started standing I absolutely went. I was in floods of tears. But it meant the world tome’ You started eating lots of steak after seeing tennis legends Rod Laver and Ken Rosewall order them. Are you still a fan? I do love a steak, but I’m trying not to eat as much red meat as I’m getting older. They ate two llet steaks each, so it went down really well with my mum when I said that’s what I needed for dinner every night! Favourite place to eat? There’s a fabulous Indian restaurant in Cheltenham called Prithvi, which is wonderful. And we recently went to a brilliant Chinese restaurant in London, Kai Mayfair. How many Wimbledon strawberries do you reckon you’ve eaten over the years? Not as many as I will next year! Normally I’m dashing around non-stop, with barely time to go to the loo. So next year I’m going to do the whole Wimbledon experience as a punter – loads of strawberries and Pimm’s. CENTRE STaGE Sue at Wimbledon in 1977 (above); receiving a hug from John McEnroe and a standing ovation from the crowd this year (left); with her rst tennis racquet (above, far right); with team captains Matt Dawson and Phil Tufnell on the set of A Question of Sport (right) GREaT TaSTE Noodles, enoki mushrooms and prawns at Kai Mayfair

1 5 6 OCTOBER 2022 Food&Drink ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor On midweek evenings, when I’m short on time but don’t fancy pasta or a stir fry, my go-to dish is a traybake – everything in one tin, and the oven doing the work while I get on with something else. A good traybake recipe can often use simple ingredients, but bring avours together so cleverly that you end up with a dish that’s much more than the sum of its parts. That’s certainly true of Martha Collison’s chicken traybake, which is perfect for an autumn evening. She also has great tips and twists for the dish, so you can ring the changes now and then. What’s For Dinner? p16 Short Cuts p21 Too Good ToWaste with Elly Curshen p23 The Best withMartha Collison p24 Weekend Cooking with ChetnaMakan p26 What I’mCooking with Ed Smith p31 Very Important Producer p32 Wine List with Pierpaolo Petrassi MW p34 Photographs: Con Poulos, Food styling: Sian Davies, Styling: Tony Hutchinson

1 6 6 OCTOBER 2022 What’s for If you’re in need of easy, affordableweeknightmeals, these brilliant dishesmake themost of our Essential products, with a dash of something special fromthe newCooks’ Ingredients range dinner? Photographs: Mowie Kay, Food styling: Liberty Fennell, Styling: Tony Hutchinson Words: Sophie Pryn

17 6 OCTOBER 2022 Food&Drink Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 15 minutes 100g quick cook Italian spelt 250g Essential Beetroot Salad 2 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Walnut Oil, plus 1 tsp 1 Essential Little Gem Lettuce, cut into eight wedges 380g pack 2 Essential British Chicken Breast Fillets 40g walnuts, toasted and chopped ½ x 20g pack tarragon, leaves only, nely chopped ½ tbsp Essential White Wine or Cider Vinegar 1 small clove garlic, crushed 1 Cook the spelt according to pack instructions, then drain well, return to the saucepan and mix with the beetroot salad. Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp walnut oil in a large nonstick frying pan. Add the little gem and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side until lightly charred, then transfer to a plate and set aside. 2 Put the chicken breasts between 2 sheets of baking parchment and use a rolling pin to atten the llets to a thickness of about 1cm. Season. Heat 1 tbsp walnut oil in the pan used to char the lettuce and cook for 3-4 minutes on each side, until the chicken is thoroughly cooked with no pink meat and the juices run clear. Set aside on a plate to rest, then slice. 3 While the chicken rests, put the walnuts, tarragon, vinegar, garlic and remaining 1 tbsp oil in a bowl. Season, then mix to combine. Divide the spelt between plates, top with the little gem, chicken and walnut salsa and serve. Per serving 2528kJ/606kcals/34g fat/4.3g saturated fat/30g carbs/14g sugars/6.3g bre/41g protein/0.7g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Warm chicken & beetroot salad withwalnut salsa Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 20 minutes 260g pack Essential Spinach 25g pack basil 250g Essential Italian Ricotta 1 unwaxed lemon, zest ½ x 130g tub Essential Pitted Black Olives, nely chopped 50g Essential Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, nely grated 75-100g Cooks’ Ingredients Pepperoni, slices cut in ½ 680g jar Essential Passata 6 fresh Essential Lasagne Sheets Essential Mixed Salad, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 180ºC, gas mark 4. Boil a kettle of water and put the spinach in a colander in the sink. Pour over the boiling water until the spinach has wilted, then rinse under cold water until cool enough to handle. Squeeze out as much water as you can from the spinach leaves, then roughly chop and put in a bowl. 2 Roughly chop the basil (reserving a few leaves to garnish) and add to the spinach. Add the ricotta, lemon zest, olives, ½ the cheese and the pepperoni. Season and mix to combine. 3 Pour the passata into a shallow oven-proof casserole. Lay the lasagne sheets on a chopping board and spread each one with 1/6 of the mixture, then roll each sheet up and slice into 4 equal-sized pieces. Arrange the pasta swirls, cut-side up, in the sauce. Sprinkle over the remaining 25g cheese and bake for 15-20 minutes, until bubbling and golden. Scatter with the reserved basil and serve with mixed salad. Per serving 1985kJ/475kcals/25g fat/12g saturated fat/33g carbs/9.8g sugars/5.6g bre/26g protein/2.2g salt/2 of your 5 a day Pepperoni & black olive rotolo Oil (olive or vegetable) Butter Milk Honey Sugar White wine vinegar or malt vinegar Stock cubes Flour (tbsp) Salt Black pepper Garlic Dried mixed herbs Chilli akes Tomato ketchup Tomato purée Wholegrain mustard Soy sauce STORECUPBOARD ESSENTIALS Keep these staples to hand as the base for easy weeknight meals Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V Vegetarian. COOK’S TIP To toast the walnuts, add them to a hot, dry frying pan and cook, tossing regularly, until slightly golden and fragrant. COOK’S TIP The best way to slice the lled pasta swirls without the lling spilling out is to use a sharp, serrated knife which will saw through the spirals instead of squashing them.

19 6 OCTOBER 2022 Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 15 minutes 1 Essential Red Onion, roughly chopped 2 tbsp Essential Olive Oil ½ tbsp ground cumin 25g pack fresh coriander 400g can Essential Mixed Bean Salad, drained (not rinsed) 30g Cooks’ Ingredients Smoky Chipotle Crust 2 Essential Extra Mature British Cheddar Slices 2 Essential Wholemeal Giant Baps, toasted 4 tbsp vine-ripened tomato salsa 1 Essential Avocado, peeled, stoned and sliced 1 Put the onion in the large bowl of a food processor and pulse until nely chopped. Heat ½ tbsp oil in a large nonstick frying pan and add the onion and cumin. Fry, stirring regularly, for 5 minutes, then tip into a mixing bowl. 2 Put most of the coriander in the bowl of the food processor (reserving some of the leaves to garnish) with the beans. Whizz until a thick paste has formed, then add to the bowl with the onions. Season and stir to combine, then divide the mixture in ½, form into 2 patties and roll in the chipotle crust to coat. 3 Wipe out the pan used to fry the onions and heat the remaining 1½ tbsp oil over a medium heat. Fry the burgers for 4 minutes on one side, reducing the heat if needed, then carefully ip them over. Top each one with a cheese slice, cover with a lid and fry for 4 minutes more, or until the cheese has melted. Spread each bun with 1 tbsp salsa, then top with a burger, another 1 tbsp salsa, avocado, the remaining coriander and the bun lid. V Per serving 3170kJ/759kcals/37g fat/10g saturated fat/69g carbs/10g sugars/19g bre/28g protein/2.8g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Mixed bean burgers with a smoky chipotle crust Serves 1 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 1 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Lemongrass Paste 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp light soy sauce 1 Essential Lime, ½ thinly sliced, ½ juiced 80g pack trimmed Tenderstem broccoli 1 Essential Hake Fillet 1 red Thai chilli, deseeded and nely sliced 1 Essential Salad Onion, nely sliced, whites and greens separated 60g Essential Long Grain Easy Cook Rice 1 tsp black sesame seeds (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 180ºC, gas mark 4. Put the lemongrass paste, sesame oil, soy and lime juice in a small bowl and whisk together to make the dressing. 2 Cut 2 x 30cm squares of foil or baking parchment. Put 1 on a baking tray and arrange the broccoli in a single layer. Sit the hake llet on top and layer the lime slices over the sh. Scatter over the chilli and the white salad onion slices, then drizzle with the dressing. 3 Top with the other parchment (or foil) sheet, scrunching the edges together to seal the parcel. Bake for 16-18 minutes, until the sh is cooked through and opaque. Meanwhile, cook the rice according to pack instructions. Scatter the green salad onion slices and sesame seeds (if using) over the sh, then serve with the rice. Per serving 1871kJ/445kcals/16g fat/2.5g saturated fat/ 45g carbs/6.1g sugars/5.1g bre/26g protein/2.3g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day COOK’S TIP Next time, try swapping the hake for another type of sh – salmon, cod or trout would all work well, but bear in mind that cooking times may vary. COOK’S TIP You can still make these if you don’t have a food processor – nely chop the onion and coriander and use a potato masher to crush the mixed beans. Aromatic hake parcels with Tenderstem broccoli & rice Photographs: Mowie Kay, Food styling: Liberty Fennell, Styling: Tony Hutchinson Words: Sophie Pryn

*SELECTED POSTCODES . SUBJ ECT TO AVAI LABI L ITY. DEL IVERY CHARGES APPLY. £40 MINIMUM SPEND. WAITROSE .COM EVERYTHING YOU LOVE AT A CL ICK QUAL ITY FOOD YOU KNOW AND LOVE P ICKED, PACKED AND DEL IVERED WITH CARE F IND EVERYTHING YOU NEED FROM SPECIAL DI ETS TO SPECIAL RECI PES

21 6 OCTOBER 2022 Food&Drink SHORT CUTS O er ends 7 February 2023. Selected lines only. Subject to availability. The very best dine-in for two Serve the chicken with the cauli ower, kale and couscous, heated according to pack instructions, with warm atbreads and topped with a generous amount of coriander. Add a drizzle of natural or Greek yogurt too, if liked. Chickenwith zaatar-roasted vegetables, cauliflower couscous & flatbread The Levantine Table Chicken with ZaatarRoasted Vegetables Cauli ower, Kale & Couscous The Levantine Table 2 Handstretched Flatbreads Cooks’ Ingredients Coriander ‘I love our new Cooks’ Ingredients Green Tikka Masala Paste. A twist on the restaurant favourite, it makes a great base for a curry and works as a marinade for meat and seafood. Try it swirled into soups, too’ TIM DALY Partner & product developer Quick fix No.1 Cottage Pie £8.50/800g No.1 Salted Miso Caramel Brownie £3.25/220g No.1 Green Vegetable Medley £3.25/225g Photographs: Con Poulos, Food styling: Jennifer Joyce, Styling: Wei Tang

23 6 OCTOBER 2022 Food&Drink Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 25g walnuts 1 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 1 shallot or ½ small onion, nely chopped 1 clove garlic, nely grated or chopped About 250g mushrooms (single, or a mixture of varieties is ne) 150g dried pasta ½ tsp sea salt akes About 125g Essential Soft Cheese ½ unwaxed lemon, zest and juice Small handful fresh herbs such as parsley, basil or chives 1 Heat a dry frying pan, add the walnuts and toast over a low heat for 2-3 minutes, until golden. Roughly chop and put to one side. 2 Add the oil to the same pan, set over a medium heat and soften the shallots, or onion, and garlic until translucent (about 3-4 minutes). Meanwhile, pulse the mushrooms in a food processor, or use a knife, until nely chopped. Easymushroom, soft cheese &walnut pasta MORE LEFTOVER IDEAS Mushrooms that need to be used up quickly, before they turn slimy, and half a tub of cream cheese. Sound familiar? They are two of themost searched for ingredients in ‘leftovers recipes’. I’ve kept this one accommodating – use whatever mushrooms you have (they’ll all be chopped up so amixture of sizes and shapes is fine) and it was tested with Essential Soft Cheese and Essential Soft Goat’s Cheese, as well as vegan creamalternatives. Taste some of themixture before adding the pasta and cooking water, and you’ll see it alsomakes a delicious pâté. Creamymushroompasta is a classic combination for good reason – it’s quick, comforting and delicious. Penne, rigatoni or fusilli are great pasta shapes to use in this recipe. @ellypear MUSHROOMS Too good towaste withElly Curshen 1Use up soft cheese by making a small amount of cream cheese icing, delicious on carrot or courgette cake or banana loaf. Blend soft cheese with about double the amount of icing sugar, beat with a little butter and milk to taste and loosen, plus a dash of vanilla paste or extract. It can be used immediately, chilled for 2 days, or can be frozen and ready to use once defrosted and blended again. 2Alternatively, fold leftover soft cheese into the beaten egg mixture when making an omelette or frittata. Don’t break it up too much – a few lumps of cheese create delicious creamy pockets once it’s cooked. 3Roasting mushrooms is a great way to use a lot quickly. Make a big trayful and keep in the fridge (for up to 5 days) to add to rice bowls, salads and more. Place trimmed button mushrooms into a baking dish or roasting tin and toss with olive oil, sherry vinegar, soy sauce, bruised whole garlic cloves and some seasoning. Arrange it all in a single layer and roast in a hot preheated oven, mixing halfway through until tender. 3 Add the mushrooms to the pan and toss everything well. Arrange in an even layer and cook, uncovered, over a medium-high heat, undisturbed, for 5 minutes. Stir well, rearrange into an even layer again and repeat for 5 more minutes, until golden and dried out. Mixing too much will stop the mushrooms from browning, so patience is key. While the mushrooms cook, boil the pasta according to pack instructions. 4 Sprinkle the mushroom mixture with the salt and add the soft cheese, lemon zest and juice. Stir well. Reduce the heat to low and stir until the cheese has melted, then remove. 5 Drain the pasta, reserving the cooking water. Add it to the mushroom mixture and toss well to combine. Use a slosh of the cooking water to bring everything together and coat the pasta in a glossy, creamy sauce. Divide between 2 bowls. Finely chop the herbs. Sprinkle the pasta with the chopped roasted walnuts, herbs and plenty of black pepper and serve. V Per serving 2425kJ/581kcals/32g fat/12g saturated fat/ 56g carbs/4.6g sugars/4.8g bre/16g protein/1.6g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day S C A N T HI S CODE F OR MOR E R E CI P E S Photographs: Con Poulos, Food styling: Sian Davies, Styling: Rosie Jenkins

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