Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 617

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 53 Weekending Zennor is rich in lore and literature and early autumn, when the days are still long but the crowds are thinning, is a fine time to visit this part of Cornwall’s Atlantic coast. This walk takes us alongmagnificent coastal paths and inland on quiet lanes and fields. Dogs on leads are welcome, but bear inmind all the advice on passing livestock – stiles may also pose an issue. From the car park in Zennor village, take the signposted path to the coast. The first section of this walk follows the SouthWest Coast Path and is clearly waymarked (don’t stray too close to the edge). Above Pendour Cove, so local legend has it, you can hear the singing of themermaid who lured the local churchwarden down there to live with her. Assuming you fall foul of no such distractions, take the coastal path that climbs to Veor Cove. Generally, the granite terrain is rocky but manageable, although care should be taken, especially when wet. After this, the spectacular stu unfolds. As you round the headland over Carnelloe and Boswednack Cli s (Cornish place names are something else), the views open towards Gurnard’s Head, so called for its great bulbous shape which resembles the head of the gurnard fish. The inviting crescent below is Treen Cove, but the rocky descent is challenging. It’s easier to push on to the head itself where, if the weather is good, you can recline on the grassy slope, listening to the breakers crash on the granite cli s below. When you can tear yourself away, turn inland following signposts for Treen. The way, well marked, leads you up to a junction, then left across farmers’ fields via hedges, stiles and steps before arriving not toomuch later at The Gurnard’s Head, a small, perfectly formed gastropub with an exquisitemenu that’s as strong on fish and seafood as you’d think. Slake your thirst with one of many Cornish hand-pulled ales. I can also recommend the Skreach small batch cider. The way continues across fields on a public footpath that should be obvious, headed always for stiles and gates. Route-finding shouldn’t be a problembut, as always, the relevant Ordnance Surveymap (see left), is advised as a foolproof aid. When you reach the road, follow it to the tiny hamlet of Boswednack. The field path back to Zennor is oftenmarked by white posts – or the remains of them– and follows the Zennor Church Path, or co n path – amedieval way for worshippers andmourners linking St Ives to Pendeen. The way now crosses several fields, headed directly for Zennor and your starting point, where you’ll have earned a good night’s sleep after salty Atlantic sea air and cider. What a terrific cocktail. Ramblers is for all those who love walking. Find out more at ramblers.org.uk. @StuartMaconie ‘You can recline on the grassy slope, listening to the breakers crash on the granite cliffs below’ ZENNOR In the first of a new series on great Britishwalks, Ramblers’ president and DJ Stuart Maconie takes a rugged but ‘doable’ hike throughwild Cornish seascapes, with a welcoming pub en route Weekendwalks PICTURE PERfECT Pendour Cove and Veor Cove near Zennor Head, with heather along the South West Coast Path (main); raw mackerel, rhubarb, ginger, lime yogurt and peanuts from The Gurnard’s Head (above) Information Best map OS Explorer 102 Land’s End Distance 4.2 miles Start and nish Zennor village car park, TR26 3BZ Duration 3.5 to 4 hours Grade Moderate to strenuous Zennor Head Carnelloe Cli Pendour Cove Gurnard’s Head Boswednack Cli Boswednack Treen Zennor