Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 617

Weekend FREE Issue 617 | 22 September 2022 A LASTING LEGACY Clare Balding looks ahead to the reign of HM King Charles III and recalls The Queen’s lifelong love of animals and the countryside, p2-5

2 News&Views 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 The showmust go on is a familiar concept, but never has it felt more defined than in the past fortnight, with the death of our longest servingmonarch and the elevation to the throne of her eldest son, our longest serving heir. HisMajesty King Charles III made an immediate impact with an impromptu walkabout outside Buckingham Palace and a heartfelt address to the nation. He is not afraid to talk about love or show emotion. The King was brought up to follow the traditional upper-class behaviour of sti upper lip and a ‘keep calmand carry on’ attitude, but has mellowed with age and is now free to be his ownman. I suspect he will do things a little di erently fromThe Queen he adored. For many years as HRHThe Prince of Wales, he was dismissed as someone ‘who talked to the plants’ and a ‘tree hugger’. His visionary outlook on the environment was greeted with suspicion by sections of the print media, who had no interest in trying to decrease our CO2 emissions or reduce our reliance on fossil fuels. Prince Charles, as he was then, was put in a box firmlymarked ‘alternative’. He did his best to ignore critics, knowing he was following a path better for those who would live long beyond his own years. He has continued to learn fromexperts in renewable energy and to study ancient farming and gardening traditions that existed well before fertilisers. He turned his methods into a commercial success, with Duchy Originals 30 years ago. As early as 1970, long before it was a fashionable topic, he raised his concerns about pollution, public waste and the short-termnature of modern architecture. In 1985, way ahead of the curve, he turnedHome Farm in Gloucestershire, part of his Duchy of Cornwall, to organic production. By 2009, people began listening, as he gave a speech recommending a ‘sustainability revolution’ and demonstrating with his own actions how to improve our individual carbon footprint. He has cut greenhouse gas emissions at his Highgrove Estate by 18% in one year, installing air and groundsource heat pumps to keep the house warm, solar panels and wood chip boilers, improving insulation andminimising his carbon footprint as best as he can. The King even runs his ancient AstonMartin on surplus white wine and whey from the cheese process. In a keynote to world leaders at the 2009 United Nations Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, he said: “As our planet’s life-support systembegins to fail and our very survival as a species is brought into question, remember our children and grandchildren will ask not what our generation said, but what it did. Let us give answers then, of which we can be proud.” Only last October, at the COP26 climate summit in Glasgow, he gave the opening address and implored world leaders to take urgent action, warning that “time has quite literally run out”. We have finally taken notice of warnings fromaman who I predict will one day be seen as a prophet. The King cares more about the future of our planet than anymonarch we have had. He has now passed the baton on toHRHPrince William, the newPrince of Wales, who himself instigated the Earthshot Prize alongside Sir David Attenborough, which o ers a global award designed to incentivise change and to help repair our planet over the next decade. I look forward to witnessing the influence of our new green King. ‘The King cares more about the future of our planet than any monarchwe have had’ HAPPY DAYS Her Majesty The Queen with HRH The Prince of Wales at Windsor Castle in 1969 A KING FOR ALL SEASONS As we embark on a new era, Clare Balding looks forward to the reign of His Majesty King Charles III and reflects on the positive role he has played in nurturing the environment

3 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 CENTRE OF ATTENTION HRH Prince William and his father stand with livestock on a visit to Duchy Home Farm in 2004 (left); HRH The Prince of Wales with wife Camilla, the then Duchess of Cornwall (below); greeting the crowd on a visit to Southend-onSea (bottom) NATuRE’S AllY The then HRH Prince of Wales on a visit to Kew Gardens in 2017 (main); with his mother in the garden of Frogmore House last year (far left); speaking at the opening ceremony of the COP26 climate summit in Glasgow (left) FAMIlY SHOW On the balcony of Buckingham Palace for Her Majesty The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations last year (right) Photography: Getty Images

5 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 News&Views Away from the pomp and circumstance and far from the formality of daily duty, there was nothing HerMajesty The Queen enjoyedmore than being with horses and dogs. Whether it was a day at Royal Ascot or Epsom, at the Royal Windsor Horse Showwatching her beloved Highland and Fell ponies in action, walking the dogs at Balmoral, riding inWindsor Great Park or visiting the Stud at Sandringham, The Queen was at home. She had a great a nity with horses and was always steadfastly calmaround them, even if a foal was showing signs of skittishness. It was noticeable how relaxed they were in her presence. The Queen once said she would have happily been ‘a country girl’, surrounded by animals. In terms of dogs, she favoured the PembrokeWelsh corgi and, at the time of her death, had two corgis called Sandy andMuick and a dorgi (a cross between a corgi and a dachshund) called Candy. You will have seen the sketch with The Queen and Daniel Clare Balding, who has known Her Majesty since she was a child, reflects on the grounding presence of her horses and dogs throughout seven decades on the throne THE QUEEN’S BEST FRIENDS 1971, The Queen had givenmy parents a Shetland pony called Valkyrie onwhom I learned to ride. HerMajesty always asked after her and when she came to inspect a row of gleaming, athletic and beautiful race horses, was most satisfied to lower her gaze at the end of the line to the hairy, fat little figure of Valkyrie. “I’mglad to see her looking so well,” she would say. Racing is an unpredictable sport, but HerMajesty loved the challenge of trying to breed horses that could rival bigger operations in Ireland or backed byMiddle Easternmoney. As recently as this year, she was thinking long termand sending her broodmares to stallions she thought might prove to be a success in time. The Queen would notice patterns of behaviour and was broad-minded in her approach to training. She believed in trying new ideas, always with the emphasis on kindness. HerMajesty loved to see foals being born and had cameras installed in the foaling boxes at Sandringham so she could watch on an iPad or get enough warning to be there in person. She inspected each foal with a knowledgeable eye and loved to lean on the fence watching themgambolling in the fields, playing and ultimately learning to gallop. Since Aureole finished second in The Derby days after her 1953 Coronation, HerMajesty’s aimwas to win the greatest race of all. That never came to pass, but she won all the other British Classics andmany top-class races with home-bred horses, often fromgenerations of the same family. Royal Ascot’s most prestigious, historic race was won by The Queen’s filly Estimate in 2013 amid scenes of unbridled joy on the racecourse and in the Royal Box, and a statue of Estimate stands at SandringhamStud, where she is now a broodmare. The 37 racehorses currently in training, along with themares, foals and ponies, are now due to pass into The King’s ownership. I hope they bring himhalf as much joy as they did to his mother. FOUR-LEGGED COMPANIONS (Clockwise from far left): Her Majesty The Queen with The King’s Troop Royal Horse Artillery in 2017; riding Balmoral Fern in Windsor Home Park; Clare Balding and brother Andrew aboard Valkyrie; The Queen with her family and dogs in the grounds of Balmoral; Princess Elizabeth cuddling a corgi in 1936 ‘The Queen had a great affinity with horses and was always steadfastly calmaround them’ Craig as James Bond, filmed for the Opening Ceremony of the London 2012 Olympics, in which the dogs led the way along the corridor. That was true to life, as I witnessed once at Windsor Castle when the dogs led the way from the drawing room to the dining room for lunch, chasing after toys as they went. They gathered around The Queen at the table, no doubt hoping for the odd treat to ‘fall’ from the table. Corgis are notoriously naughty and have never been the easiest to train or discipline, yet The Queen adored them. Perhaps their lack of respect and unpredictable behaviour was a welcome distraction from the serious business of everyday life. I was lucky enough to knowThe Queen froma very young age, as my father trained racehorses for HerMajesty andmy brother took up themantle in 2003. They both spoke to her on a regular basis and every year in the spring, she would come to the yard to see the horses for herself andmeet the grooms who looked after them. Not long after I was born in Photography: Getty Images, Alamy Stock Photo

7 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 News&Views Photography: Samir Hussein/WireImage DAWN OF A NEW ERA Perched high on an adult’s shoulders to take in the sea of people surrounding her, this little girl at the gates of Buckingham Palace is one of millions who turned out to pay their last respects to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Dressed in a replica red jacket and hat, similar to the uniformof The King’s Guard – renamed in honour of the newmonarch, His Majesty King Charles III – she is witnessing the end of an era. When The Queen herself was a similar age, she would have had little idea that she would one day inspire millions of admirers around the world, particularly women and girls who would look on her as a role model – bright, committed and astute. This occasion alsomarks a time for optimism and new beginnings, with the newKing now at the helm. “My mother’s reign was unequalled in its duration, its dedication and its devotion,” said The King at his proclamation. “In taking up these responsibilities, I shall strive to follow the inspiring example that I have been set.” The big picture

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9 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 News&Views As someone who doesn’t like going to the gym, opting tomerge exercise with daily life – in other words, not domuch of it – I thought plogging and I would get on well. It’s a Swedish concept combining jogging with litter picking. Armed with a litter picker, a bag and gloves, as well as your trainers, it turns something designed to improve your health into something that also gives the local area a boost. So I tried it – and felt foolish. As if looking bright red and sweaty when you bump into neighbours isn’t bad enough, the accessories mademe look like someone on community service. Perhaps, if you’re a good runner, swooping down on sweet wrappers can be seamless. For me, it’s a big deal and exhausting, though hopefully earningme extra fitness points. I turn to Lizzie Car, who set up Planet Patrol, inspiring people to tackle litter in their community. She’s been plogging for years and has an app so you can record litter and put pressure on the companies responsible. “Set the distance you want to cover and plan a few stops on the way to collect litter around you – if you stop every time you spot litter, you’ll never get anywhere,” says Lizzie. She adds that there’s no need for a litter picker if you’re not keen. She takes gardening gloves and a washable shoulder bag instead. For my next plog, I recruit my teenager for support and we ditch the litter tongs. After a couple of kilometres, he suggests we drop the pace and call it plalking. In fact, this term already exists and it might bemoremy style. ANNA SHEPARD Week 34: Going plogging Sustainable living EWE JUST HAVE TO BE THERE Chef TomKerridge, known for high-end dining at his twoMichelin-starred pub The Hand and Flowers inMarlow, has launched a £15 two-course lunch menu at three of his other restaurants, saying that an a ordable lunch is one way of tackling tough times. Tom says he won’t makemoney from the deal, which focuses on school classics such as roasted beef and onion cottage pie, and is available at The Coach inMarlow, The Bull &Bear inManchester and Kerridge’s Bar&Grill at Corinthia in London. The return of prix fixe AUTUMN IN THE A IR Get ready for the autumn equinox tomorrow (23 September), traditionally a time to re ect on the past season and give thanks for a good harvest. Fruits, vegetables and meat are preserved for the cold months ahead, while foragers comb the hedgerows for ripe elderberries, rosehips and hazelnuts (left). Look out for wading birds, such as curlews, redshanks or oystercatchers, which populate estuaries this month, newly arrived from the colder north or preparing to migrate south. Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart lunch deal Tom Kerridge’s £15 two-course menu includes roasted beef and onion cottage pie (right) A flock of North of Englandmule sheep will be driven through the capital’s streets on Sunday (25 September) to celebrate an ancient tradition and raise funds for charity. The event marks the right of Freemen to herd sheep tomarket over the Thames toll-free. This year, the Lord Mayor of London, Vincent Keaveny, and guest Kate Humble will join Freemen and their guests to herd flocks along London Bridge’s downstreamwalkway for the 10th charity sheep drive. It is organised by The Worshipful Company of Woolmen, which traces its roots back to 1180. There is also a livery fair aroundMonument, showcasing rare breed sheep fromSpitalfields City Farm, blade-shearing, woollen products, and arts and crafts. Funds raised support The LordMayor’s Appeal and The Woolmen Charity, which promotes the industry and helps preserve its ancient links with the City of London, much of which was built with proceeds from the wool trade. sheepdrive.london Photography: Andy Sillett Photography/Sheep Drive, Getty Images

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 1 0 News&Views Annual household energy bills are set to be capped at £2,500 when they rise next month, but the cost of gas and electricity is still going up. While no amount of domestic savviness will swerve this crisis completely, Joanna O’Loan, of the Energy Saving Trust (EST), says we can embrace changes that will help to lower our bills. “Taking a number of quick energysaving actions in the home can reduce energy use, and in turn your bills, by several hundred pounds a year, without compromising your health, wellbeing or lifestyle,” she adds. SIMPLE WAYS TO SAVE ENERGY AND MONEY The government has announced action on rising household energy prices, but that won’t absorb all the costs. So try Anna Shepard’s thrifty tips in your home In focus Cooking time l Make friends with your microwave – it beats all other cooking appliances for value for money, costing around £30 annually, compared to £316 for an electric cooker, vegans, there’s also One Pot: ThreeWays by Rachel Ama. l Don’t overfill your kettle. The UK uses the same amount of electricity for boiling kettles as it does for the entire country’s street lighting – if you’re onlymaking one cup of tea, pour amug of water into your kettle. l Use a slow cooker tomake a casserole – it uses only a littlemore energy than having a halogen lightbulb turned on, says Uswitch. Kitchen appliances l By deflu ng the coils on the back of the fridge, you could improve its e ciency by 25%, according to the EST. It’s also worth making sure that there’s a gap of at least 10cmbehind your fridge and the wall to let hot air flow away quickly. l Choose an energy-e cient fridge freezer. It’s likely to be the greediest energy-guzzling appliance in your home, responsible for around 12%of your energy bill and costing an average of £73 to run each year, which will rise to £136 next month, according to consumer organisationWhich? l Sizematters, so only buy a large appliance if you need one. Research suggests a larger model that’s e cient could cost more to run than a smaller model with lower e ciency. l Run your dishwasher only when it’s full and use ecomode, which saves between 20 to 40%of its energy use. A dishwasher uses far less hot water than washing up by hand, according to the EST. Heating your home l “Heat the human, not the home,” says Money Saving Expert founderMartin Lewis. Embrace hot water bottles, electric blankets, blankets and layered clothing. l When turning the heating on, keep it between 18ºC and 21ºC, as recommended by theWorldHealth Organisation. Dropping it by one degree can save you £100 per year, according to Uswitch. l Fit smart heating controls, thermostatic devices connected wirelessly to the internet, to control your heating by zones and also remotely. Which? estimates that a household could save at least £100 a year by using them. l Turn radiators o in rooms you’re not using, but make sure the doors of these unheated rooms are kept shut tomaximise the warmth of the heated ones. l Bleed your radiators if they are colder at the top than the bottom. If you have cold spots in the bottomof your radiator, you may need a plumber to flush the system. according to research by electricity and gas supplier Utilita Energy. l Use your oven less often, but make it multitask, says Joanna. “Heating the oven for a single pizza can prove expensive, but cooking and preparing in batches is typically a cheaper way to prepare food.” l Use a lid – a low-tech but e ective way to shorten cooking time by trapping heat. l Don’t freeze warm food – your freezer will work overtime to cool it. Reverse this logic when defrosting food, putting it in the fridge to defrost overnight. This will help keep the fridge cool so it has to work less hard. l Cook ameal in one pot to reduce preparation, cooking time and water use, due to less washing up. For inspiration, try One: Pot, Pan, Planet by Anna Jones, or Jamie Oliver’s new book, One. For Illustration: Maïté Franchi/Folioart

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 1 1 l Service your boiler every year tomake sure your heating system is working as e ciently as possible. l Don’t push your sofa against a radiator – the heat needs to flow around the room. Allow six inches between a radiator and an itemof furniture. l Tuck curtains behind the radiator if they cover it when they are drawn. “Try to fold curtains so they hang below the windowsill, but a few centimetres above the radiator so you can benefit as much as possible from the heat,” says Joanna. l Switch up your duvet tog. The average duvet tog is around 10.5, but heat-e cient duvets run up to 18 tog – this is cheaper than putting the heating on at night. The living room l Turn your chargers o at the wall. This might only save you pennies, but since we have an average of 40-50 electrical appliances in our homes, it adds up. “Every charger draws a small amount of electricity, even if there’s not a device on the end of it,” explains Joanna. l Target appliances in the living room, since electricity usage here has more than tripled since 1970. Meanwhile, kitchen electricity usage has gone down thanks to increasingly e cient appliances, say experts at the Centre for Economics and Business Research. l Stick with a high definition TV, rather than upgrading to an ultra high definition 4K version, which requires a thirdmore energy. l Save up to £40 a year by turning your appliances o standby. According to Eco Cost Savings, leaving your TV on standby all year will cost you around £11, or 3.2p per day. l Install a smart meter – your supplier can do this for free – to see howmuch electricity and gas you are using, which will help you find ways to cut back. l Lower your boiler’s flow setting to 50-55ºC. According to Octopus Energy, this is adequate to heat your water and could cut your energy bills by 8%. A look at laundry l Try to avoid washing half loads. Instead, wait until the drum is three quarters full to ensure clothes are properly cleaned. By washing at 30ºC, the EST says your machine will use around 40% less electricity a year. l Hang clothes outdoors if possible, or use an indoor airer. A heated one would be cheaper than using a dryer – even themost e cient dryer will cost 48p per full load. And don’t put clothes on radiators, as this makes them work even harder to heat the room. l Do several loads of laundry in one session, and if youmust use a tumble dryer, drying the loads back-to-back will capture residual heat in the drum. l Clean the filters in your washingmachine and dryer regularly and you will get more e cient performance. Lightbulbmoments l Switching to energy-e cient LED lighting will save you around £7 per year per bulb, according toWhich? Halogen bulbs were banned in the UK in 2021, although retailers have been authorised to continue selling themuntil their current stocks run out. l Turn the lights o when leaving a room, as lighting accounts for 11%of the average household electricity bill. Do this even if you’re going to be coming back into the room in a fewminutes, says the EST. l Dust your lightbulbs tomaximise their wattage, advises electricity and gas provider Ovo. You should also consider howmany lights you need on in a roomand fit sensors or timers on external lights. Bathroomeconomics l Take showers instead of baths. Even having a 10-minute shower uses around 25 gallons of water, compared with 70 gallons for a full bath. l Fit a water-reducing shower head and tap aerator. These work by injecting air into the water, which comes out with the same flow rate, but using only a fraction of the water. l Keep showers to under four minutes, and swap one bath for a shower every week to save £35 per person per year, the EST estimates. A two-minute shower uses only approximately five gallons of water. For more advice, see energysavingtrust.org.uk They say ‘a change is as good as a rest’ but I’mnot sure it’s an adage that stands up to proper scrutiny. Sometimes, change feels exhausting. I know I’mnot alone in feeling strangely knocked for six by the sheer amount of it around at themoment. If you’d been on a fortnight’s holiday in Andalucía, out of wifi range, you’d be forgiven for having a kind of national whiplash. E ectively you’ve come back to a country with an ‘Under NewManagement’ sign hanging on the door. These times are not in the slightest bit restful. But if we, as citizens, are feeling a little ragged around the edges, what of our newKing? How on Earth has hemanaged to bear up so well? At his age too. I don’t say that in a cheeky or disparaging way. Change has many faces – the ability to bemalleable, to waft along in the breezes of life or to turn suddenly on a sixpence – and none of these are the traits associated with ageing. In fact, it’s quite the opposite isn’t it? With age, we earn the right to plant our feet more firmly on the ground. We become the solid trees in the forest which bendy saplings must weave their way around. We can use ageing as an excuse not to budge on anything. Many do – and at a far younger age. Although The King’s destiny has alerted him to how his life will change, I defy even themost well prepared heir to know how they’ll feel until they actually step up to that throne. You may well be able to rehearse the events and the schedule but not the loss that preceded it. Grief isn’t an emotion you can practise. It comes in waves and it comes when it wants to. For The King, the one person he could ask about such a peculiar change is no longer there to discuss that very thing. There are several questions we could all ask of ourselves at themoment – could you take on the biggest job of your life at the age of 73? Howwould you have survived the sheer pace of the last two weeks? And could you step into a role only made possible through loss? I know I couldn’t. The accession has provided a timely reminder about the value of age and the abilities it does bring with it. One of the loveliest things to emerge across this period of mourning has been somany older people being asked for their opinion, some being congratulated for living through the entire Elizabethan age, others simply telling their stories. Suddenly, our ‘youthquake’ doesn’t seemquite so overwhelming. So even if I don’t feel rested, I do feel a bit more balanced. I’ll try and fashion an adage out of that. Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover ‘The accession has provided a timely reminder about the value of age and the abilities it does bring with it’ FI GLOVER The journalist and broadcaster has her say Inmy opinion

12 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 News&Views The outside temperature has hit 30ºC and shows no sign of giving up its fierce pursuit of 40. It’s not even co ee time. Records are set to break, sales of fans to rocket. Headline writers are polishing the word ‘unprecedented’. Scorching temperatures aside, Claudia Roden, 86, shrugs o the heat like a pro. “You know, in Cairo, 40 degrees and even hotter was normal, and we didn’t have air conditioning. It doesn’t bother me,” she says. The Egypt-born food writer sounds calm, practical and unflustered over the phone fromher North London home. She’s in her book-lined study, the windows and curtains shut tight against the city’s summer heat because “it’s what we’ve been told to do”. She will move between here and her kitchen, a room largely unchanged since shemoved in with her children almost 50 years ago. Work distracts. It might be writing, a talk or lecture, checking recipes for amagazine feature or preparing for the launch of the 25th anniversary edition of her groundbreaking The Book of Jewish Food. “I’mworking on lots of things. For me, work is about puttingmymind to something that interests me. I forget about the heat. Every so often, I go downstairs to drink andmake something to eat,” she says. That meal might be the results of recipe testing, or leftovers froma recent gathering –maybe a portion of FUTURE PROOF Claudia Roden began collecting recipes to preserve her culture after enforced exile fromher native Egypt. The books that followed established her as one of the greatest foodwriters – and there’s more to come, writes Tessa Allingham

13 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 a tomato and red pepper salad, chilli-pepped and lemonsharpened fromher 2021 book, Med, or bulgur wheat and nuts tossed with a pomegranatemolasses, harissa, cumin and coriander dressing, or a slice of yogurt cake. During this year’s long summer, guests gathered frequently in Claudia’s garden. She admits to being no gardener, but enjoying the “wonderful feeling of nature” from the tall trees that mark the boundary and shade the terrace of her property at the end of a cul-de-sac inHampstead Garden Suburb. It’s the home in which she brought up her children, and built, as a single parent, her acclaimed food writing and broadcasting career. It’s really too big for her, she says, but she has no intention of moving, because she enjoys the area – “we have our own theatre groups and choirs and proms, we invite each other to dinner and drinks” – and anyway, what would she do with all her books? “Having people here, sharing ameal, having a good time is what makes me happiest now,” she says. “Last night, my family came, grandchildren too.” Her three children – Simon, Nadia and Anna – all live nearby, her six grandchildren are at university or working. “We had two friends fromHolland, young, the age of my grandchildren. They all helped finish the cooking, bring dishes out, set the table.” Is she a controller? She laughs. “I let themget on. Whatever they do is fine. But when a Spanish friend came to stay, and then a Greek friend who has a cookery school joined us, they insisted on washing up, and the next day, I couldn’t find anything. We had such a good time, though, did simple things. There is somuch pleasure in that.” That family and friends should be so essential to Claudia is not surprising – hers was one of thousands of EgyptianJewish families expelled from the country in the wake of the 1956 Suez Crisis. Expulsions were often immediate and citizenships were revoked, with passports stamped ‘one way, no return’. Egyptian-Jewish people sought new lives, eventually settling throughout Europe, the US and South America. Until then, life had been “charmed, a dream”, Claudia says. She grew up with her brothers, Ellis and Zaki in cosmopolitan, middle-class Cairo. Her parents, Cesar and Nelly Douek, were of Syrian-Jewishmerchant heritage. “We were part of a Jewish community in a country already full of minorities. There was an Armenian and a Syrian community, a big Greek one – every grocer was Greek – and an ancient Italian community.” She describes a comfortable, Europeanised life in the introduction to The Book of Jewish Food, with enchanting surroundings of “palm trees, pretty villas and gardens with bougainvillaea, jasmine and brilliant red flowers we called ‘flamboyants’’’. It was common to bemultilingual. The family spoke French at home and the children spoke Italian with their Slovenian nanny. She digresses. It happens frequently, so rich is her memory bank of stories, so ready is she to share them. ‘A dish always means a person, a place. Part of my research has always been to be part of people’s lives, even if for amoment’ Photography: Stuart Simpson/Penguin Random House

15 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 “A lot of my childhood was spent at the park. Nannies would take us there, make a circle around all the children, and we were supposed to stay inside it. But we’d escape to climb ‘themountain’ that was really a little hill housing an aquariumand an ancient tree,” she recalls. “On one return visit to Cairo, I went to the park. I found the tree, and it still had the letters we had carved into its bark – RRT, for Royal Rex Tree. It was verymoving.” As she got older, Claudia excelled at swimming, beating the national women’s backstroke record at just 15. Shortly after that, she was sent to boarding school in Paris (she still has a flat in the city), going from there to study art in London at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. She was a 20-year-old student when Suez happened. Claudia’s parents came to Golders Green, North London, settling in a house that became amagnet for displaced Jewish friends and extended family, a constant flow of people seeking new lives. Claudia started collecting recipes as a way of remembering a culture that she felt was at risk of being forgotten. “We thought we would never see each other again,” she writes in Med, “so [recipes] were something to remember one another by.” Cookbooks didn’t exist in Egypt, she notes – recipes were passed down frommother to daughter. The collection grew, starting as a “mixed bag because the Jewish community of Egypt was amosaic fromall over the old Ottoman world and theMediterranean”, and eventually, becoming her first book. The groundbreaking Book of Middle Eastern Food of 1968 (along with Jewish Food it’s the work she’s most proud of ), introducedWestern palates to zaatar, Persian lamb, houmous and pomegranate molasses – ingredients and dishes familiar to home cooks and restaurant-goers of 2022, but a revelation in late-60s Britain. The book also launched a career that resulted in some 15 publications – one that continues today with the publication of the 25th anniversary edition of Jewish Food. Beyond a cover richly decorated with detail from the ceiling of the synagogue in Toledo, Spain (a nod to Sephardi Jews of theMediterranean balances the Ashkenazi candelabra on the cover of the original edition), are recipes from the Jewish diaspora, personal stories, historical contexts and cultural digressions. It comes as no surprise that the original took 16 years to complete, so encyclopaedic is its scope, so scrupulous is Claudia’s research, fuelled as she was to document rigorously the culture of her displaced people, lest memory fade. The new edition finds itself in a di erent culinary landscape from 1997. Even Claudia questioned the idea when, in 1980, her editor at Penguin, Jill Norman, suggested she should write a book about Jewish food. “I said: ‘There isn’t such a thing, we just ate what was in the country.’” She accepted the challenge, however, and began piecing together the complex, global story of Jewish food by travelling hungrily, talking, observing, learning, asking for recipes fromanyone shemet. “There were no cookery books, no internet. You had to go and find people.” And context was all-important: “For me, a dish always means a person, a place. Part of my research has always been to be part of people’s lives, even if for amoment.” While the food of the Ashkenazi communities of eastern and central Europe was already recognised – salt beef and gefilte fish, the cheesecakes and strudels of bakeries as well as kosher delis – the fragrant flavours and spices of Sephardi cooking was found only in home kitchens. “Now I find echoes of Sephardi Jewish cooking everywhere in Britain. Their ingredients have become staples,” Claudia writes. “A generation has grown up using harissa fromTunisia, tahini fromLebanon, zhoug fromYemen.” New chapters suggest there’s more to discover – Claudia describes the wedding traditions and food-centred hospitality of the Algerian Jewish community in France, and explains the Ashkenazi-rooted, Sephardi-inflected cooking of Dutch Jews with a recipe for a yeasted ginger cake with almond and ginger paste. Years on, Claudia still feels thememory-triggering power of food and cooking. “Last night I made konafa. I took out my mother’s oven tray – the one I always use. When she came to England, the first thing she wanted to buy was a tray the right size for konafa, so this one is from 1956. I thought of her as I washed it, how she’d pull the strands of kadaif to loosen them.” You sense that memories are flooding her head. This Sunday (25 September) sees the start of the threeday holiday to celebrate RoshHashanah, the JewishNew Year festival. Claudia is not religious, but family will gather, traditions will be observed, and glasses raised, as much to mark the arrival of the book as that of Hebrew year 5782. “I don’t host [NewYear] anymore. My youngest daughter does it because her husband knows how to pray inHebrew. I’ll go to theirs,” she says. A crowd of vivacious friends and family will eat foods laden with symbolism. “In Egypt, we would eat something that represents the head of a sheep such as the brains, but here it’s a big fish to share, served with the head on. There’ll be rice, chickpeas, couscous, all symbols of fecundity, and the challah and pastries will be round.” Sweetness features too, signifying happiness in the formof honey, sweet potatoes, meat with quince or dried fruit. And what does the new year hold? Claudia has another book to write, she feels, but its shape is not yet clear. “There will be food, but there’ll bemorememory and storytelling. Maybe it’ll be a kind of memoir.” However it emerges, it will be one to savour, and for those closest to Claudia, it will be reason, as if one were needed, to gather around her table in that shady corner of Hampstead Garden Suburb and linger, talking and remembering, long into the night. The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey fromSamarkand and Vilna to the Present Day, 25th anniversary edition (Penguin) is out now. RoshHashanah recipes, p38 News&Views F O O D B I T E S Something you’re not keen on? In China I ate baby scorpions, deep-fried. I wouldn’t choose it again. How do you take your co ee? At home – strong, with milk and I make it by the infusion method. When I’m out it’s an espresso. What’s in your fridge? Must-haves are lemons, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, garlic, yogurt, milk, butter, cheeses, salamis, bread, wine and fresh fruit juice. A return trip? To Barcelona (below), for seafood soups and stews. ‘Now I find echoes of Sephardi Jewish cooking everywhere in Britain. Their ingredients have become staples’ a culinary journey Claudia in her kitchen in 1987 publicising her book, Mediterranean Cookery Photography: Getty images

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 17 Rustle up a speedy midweek meal with our protein-packed, responsibly sourced extra large king prawns. You’ll nd amazing recipes at waitrose.com, including this spaghetti with prawns, chorizo and fennel – ready in just 25 minutes Waitrose & Partners Extra Large King Prawns SAVE 1/3 £4.66/220g (was £7.25, o er ends 27 September) GREAT SEPTEMBER SAVINGS Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability Easy ways with KING PRAWNS OFFER

19 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 Food&Drink I’m so excited to share our new-look food and drink section with you this week. Putting it all together has been a lot of hard work for the whole team, but we’re really pleased with the results. I’m delighted that we’ll now have recipes from Elly and Martha every week, and because you told us you wanted more ideas for midweek cooking, there’ll be lots of inspiration for quick, easy ways to eat well even when you’re busy. I hope you’ll nd the new pullout format even more useful too, allowing you to build up a library of recipes you can cook again and again. What’s For Dinner? p20 Short Cuts p27 The Best withMartha Collison p30 Too Good ToWaste with Elly Curshen p33 Weekend Cooking with DianaHenry p34 RoshHashanah with Natasha Piper p38 Very Important Producer p40 Wine List with Pierpaolo Petrassi p42 ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Photographs: Con Poulos, Food styling: Sian Davies, Styling: Wei Tang

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 20 Photographs: Ant Duncan, Dan Jones, Food styling: Joss Herd, Styling: Wei Tang What’s for If you’re in need of easy, affordableweeknightmeals, look no further – these brilliant dishesmake themost of our Essential products, with a dash of something special fromthe newCooks’ Ingredients range dinner?

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 21 Food&Drink Serves 4 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 10 minutes ½ x 250g pack dried ne egg noodles 1 bunch Essential Salad Onions 500ml sh stock 160ml can Essential Coconut Cream 30g crunchy peanut butter 2 sticks Essential Celery, thinly sliced ½ x 190g jar Cooks’ Ingredients Singapore Noodle Paste ½ x 300g pack Essential Beansprouts 250g pack frozen Essential Cooked Peeled Prawns 40g Essential Roasted & Salted Large Peanuts, chopped 1 Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the egg noodles, then remove from the heat and set side. Meanwhile, thinly slice the salad onions, reserving the greenest tips. 2 Put the stock, coconut cream, peanut butter, celery, noodle paste and sliced salad onions in a large saucepan. Heat until simmering, then cook gently for 2 minutes. 3 Drain the noodles and add to the pan, along with the beansprouts and frozen prawns. Heat gently for 2-3 minutes, until piping hot. Ladle into shallow bowls and serve scattered with the reserved salad onions and peanuts. Per serving 1448kJ/347kcals/21g fat/9.7g saturated fat/17g carbs/5.5g sugars/4.6g bre/20g protein/2g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Prawn, peanut & coconut noodles Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 30 minutes 180g Essential Macaroni 1 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 1 large Essential Leek, very thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 350g tub Essential Cheese Sauce 60g Essential Pitted Black Olives, drained and chopped (from a 350g can) 300g frozen Essential Pea & Bean Mix 150g Essential Cherry Tomatoes, halved 50g Essential Mature Cheddar, grated 25g Cooks’ Ingredients Mediterranean Style Crust 1 Preheat the oven to 190ºC, gas mark 5. Cook the macaroni in boiling, lightly salted water for 8 minutes, then drain well, reserving some of the cooking water. 2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the leek gently for 3 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and fry for 1 minute more. Stir in the cheese sauce, olives, pea and bean mix, tomatoes, macaroni and plenty of black pepper. Heat through for 2 minutes, until hot, mixing in enough reserved cooking water to keep the sauce loose. Tip everything into a large, shallow baking dish and spread level. 3 Sprinkle over the cheese, followed by the Mediterranean crust. Bake for 20 minutes, until crisp, golden and piping hot throughout. V Per serving 1783kJ/426kcals/18g fat/8.3g saturated fat/45g carbs/5.1g sugars/7.1g bre/17g protein/1.3g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Creamymacaroni bake with Mediterranean sprinkles COOK’S TIP Use the rest of the Mediterranean crust just as you would dried breadcrumbs. Try it sprinkled over baked sh or chicken, or in any cheesy gratin dishes. COOK’S TIP Store the rest of the noodle paste in the fridge and use within 4 weeks. Try this recipe again using leftover shredded cooked chicken or pork, instead of the prawns. Oil (olive or vegetable) Butter Milk Honey Sugar White wine vinegar or malt vinegar Stock cubes Flour (tbsp) Salt Black pepper Garlic Dried mixed herbs Chilli akes Tomato ketchup Tomato purée Wholegrain mustard Soy sauce STORECUPBOARD ESSENTIALS Keep these staples to hand as the base for easy weeknight meals Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V Vegetarian.

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 23 Food&Drink Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 35 minutes 500g pack frozen Essential Grilled Vegetable Mix 2 vegetable stock cubes 4 cobs Essential Sweetcorn 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 green chilli, thinly sliced 1 slice brown or white bread, nely diced ½ x 25g pack coriander, chopped 150ml tub Essential Soured Cream 1 avocado, peeled, stoned and cut into thin slices ½ x 200g pack Essential Radishes, thinly sliced 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7, then scatter the vegetable mix into a large roasting tin and roast for 25 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, crumble the stock cubes into a large saucepan and add 1L boiling water from the kettle. Add the sweetcorn, cover with a lid and cook for 5 minutes, turning once. Lift the corn out onto a plate and leave for a few minutes, until cool enough to handle. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels away from the cobs. 3 Return the corn kernels (discard the cobs) to the pan of stock with the paprika, chilli, bread, coriander and vegetable mix. Cover and cook gently for a further 10 minutes. Ladle the stew into shallow bowls, top with spoonfuls of soured cream and serve scattered with the avocado and radishes. Per serving 1233kJ/296kcals/15g fat/5.2g saturated fat/27g carbs/12g sugars/11g bre/9.5g protein/0.2g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Mexican-inspired corn & pepper stew Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 8 minutes 400g can Essential Mixed Bean Salad 300g pack Essential 2% Fat British Turkey Breast Mince 4 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Vadouvan Spice Blend 1 Essential Red Onion, ½ nely chopped, ½ thinly sliced ¼ Essential Cucumber, halved lengthways, then sliced across 4 sprigs mint, leaves picked and nely chopped 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 tbsp caster sugar 4 Essential White or Wholemeal Giant Baps 2 tsp olive oil 120g Essential Greek Style Yogurt 1 Drain the beans and pat dry between several layers of kitchen paper. Reserve 100g in a small bowl. Transfer the rest to a larger bowl and mash with a fork until broken into small pieces. Add the turkey mince, vadouvan spice, chopped red onion and a little salt. Mix well and shape into 4 even-sized burgers. 2 Combine the cucumber, sliced red onion, mint, vinegar and sugar in a bowl and stir well to make a salsa. Halve the baps, ready for lling. 3 Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the burgers for 4 minutes on each side, until golden and cooked through. Place on the bap bases, top each with a spoonful of the reserved beans, yogurt and salsa, then top with the lids. Per serving 1821kJ/432kcals/8.7g fat/2.9g saturated fat/49g carbs/12g sugars/7.1g bre/36g protein/1.4g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Spicy turkey & bean burgers withminted cucumber salsa COOK’S TIP If you’re short of time, speed the preparation up by cooking 500g frozen Essential Sweetcorn in the stock instead of using fresh, then add the remaining ingredients. COOK’S TIP For a slightly more substantial supper, serve the burgers with Essential Oven Chips or French Fries instead of the oured baps.

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 25 Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 15 minutes 250g Essential Sweet Potatoes, scrubbed, then cut into 2cm chunks 100g pack Cooks’ Ingredients Spicy Italian Pepperoni 2 small red onions, sliced 1 stick Essential Celery, thinly sliced 200g frozen Essential Grilled Vegetable Mix 1 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Italian Seasoning 3 tbsp Essential Tomato Ketchup ¾ x 20g pack at leaf parsley or coriander, chopped (optional) 1 Cook the sweet potatoes in boiling water for 10 minutes, or until tender. Drain thoroughly. 2 Put the pepperoni, red onions and celery into a frying pan and cook gently for 5 minutes, until softened and lightly browned. Stir in the sweet potatoes, grilled vegetable mix and Italian seasoning, then cook for 3-4 minutes more, increasing the heat if needed, until everything is piping hot throughout. 3 Add the ketchup and 3 tbsp water, stirring brie y over the heat to combine. Lightly stir in the parsley or coriander (if using), then serve. Per serving 1843kJ/439kcals/17g fat/6.2g saturated fat/45g carbs/35g sugars/7.4g bre/23g protein/3g salt/ 3 of your 5 a day/gluten free Quick pepperoni & sweet potato hash Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 30 minutes 500g pack 20 Essential British Lamb Meatballs 2 Essential Green Peppers, deseeded, cut into small chunks 1 large Essential Red Onion, chopped 2 x 400g cans Essential Cannellini Beans 50g Essential Pitted Black or Green Olives, chopped 1 tbsp thyme, chopped, plus a few leaves to scatter 2 cloves garlic, nely chopped 100g Essential Half Fat Mayonnaise 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Heat a frying pan without adding oil, then fry the meatballs, shaking the pan frequently, for 5 minutes, or until browned. Lift out onto a plate with a slotted spoon. Add the peppers to the pan and fry for 5 minutes, then add the onion and fry for 5 minutes more. 2 Stir in the contents of the cans of beans (including the liquid), the olives, thyme, ½ the garlic and 100ml water. Heat through, then carefully tip into a roasting tin. Sit the meatballs on top and bake for 15 minutes. 3 In a small bowl, beat the mayonnaise together with the remaining garlic, plenty of black pepper and 2 tbsp water. Transfer the lamb and beans to plates and serve, with the garlic mayonnaise alongside. Per serving 2008kJ/481kcals/25g fat/ 7.8g saturated fat/25g carbs/6.8g sugars/11g bre/34g protein/1.3g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day/gluten free Lamb, peppers & cannellini beans with garlic mayo COOK’S TIP As an alternative to lamb meatballs, try using 4 Essential British Lamb Leg Steaks instead. Fry brie y in the pan with a dash of oil, then nish as above. COOK’S TIP This type of dish is perfect for using up small amounts of vegetables left in the fridge or freezer, such as French beans, mangetout, broccoli and runner beans. Chop and cook brie y in boiling water rst to soften, then toss them in once the onions and celery are browned.

22 SEPTEMBER 2022 27 Food&Drink Essential steak & chips SHORT CUTS Quick fix CHICKEN, PEA & FETA PASTA Cook the fries according to pack instructions, and fry the steaks to your liking. Just before serving, toss the chips in a generous pinch of the tru e salt and serve with a grating of cheese. Essential French Fries ‘My store cupboard is never without Essential Tuna Chunks for quick, nutrition-packed lunches and family meals in minutes – tuna pasta bake is a favourite. Responsibly sourced, pole- and line-caught and certi ed to the Marine Stewardship Council’s standard for sustainable shing, it’s great value on every level’ KATIE BISHOP Partner & assistant food and drink editor Essential British Chicken Mini Breast Fillets Essential Greek Feta Essential Spaghetti Essential Garden Peas A quick and easymeal using four great value Essential ingredients Essential Parmigiano Reggiano DOP Cooks’ Ingredients Tru e Salt Essential British Beef Frying Steak Photographs: Con Poulos, Food styling: Sian Davies, Styling: Wei Tang

ADVERT I SEMENT FEATURE Prices correct at time of going to print. Selected stores. Subject to availability These new British regal white potatoes make the ultimate roasties – they’re crispy on the outside and u y on the inside, with a buttery texture and a hint of sweetness. Try them in our recipe for roast potatoes with garlic at waitrose.com Comfort INCOMING Waitrose British Regal White Potatoes £1.60/1.5kg

30 22 SEPTEMBER 2022 Cottage pie Where better to beginmy new-look column than with a great British classic? I conducted thorough research and testing to produce this –my perfect cottage pie. I hope you enjoy giving it a go. There are tips so you can adjust it to suit you, too Serves 6 with a generous side of vegetables Prepare 45 minutes Cook 30 minutes 500g Essential 10% Fat British Beef Mince 1 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, nely chopped 1 carrot, nely chopped 2 sticks celery, nely chopped 300g chestnut mushrooms 1 tbsp tomato purée 125ml red wine 250ml Cooks’ Ingredients Beef Stock 1 tsp Marmite 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 bay leaf For the topping 800g red potatoes 90g butter 50ml milk 100g mature Cheddar, grated 1 Set a large cast-iron casserole or saucepan over a medium heat. Divide the beef mince into 3 and add the rst 1/3 to the pan. Use a wooden spoon to break it up, then fry for 2-3 minutes, until nicely golden all over. Caramelisation will add avour, so don’t be afraid to let it start colouring. Use a slotted spoon to remove the cooked mince and put into a bowl, before repeating with the rest of the meat in two more batches. 2 Add the olive oil to the pan (leaving any excess beef fat and brown bits in the pan), then add the onion, carrot and celery. Sauté for 5-8 minutes, until beginning to soften. 3 Blitz the mushrooms in a mini chopper or food processor (or nely chop by hand) until they resemble rough breadcrumbs. Add to the pan and cook for a further 3-4 minutes, then add the tomato purée and stir well. 4 Pour in the wine and scrape the bottom of the pan with the spoon to release its avour into the sauce. After cooking for 1 minute, add the browned mince back in, along with the stock, Marmite, Worcestershire sauce and bay leaf. Put the lid on the pan and simmer for 10 minutes, while you prepare the mash. 5 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Peel and chop the potatoes into even-sized pieces, each roughly the size of a golf ball. Add to a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and cook for 10-15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife. Drain into a colander, then rinse the potatoes in cold water (to wash away excess starch that makes the mash gluey) and set aside. 6 Remove the lid from the mince and allow to reduce for a further 5-10 minutes. Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer (see tips) back into the saucepan and add 75g butter and the milk. Stir just enough to combine and season. 7 Taste the mince and season. Remove the bay leaf and pour into a 2L ovenproof dish (about 20x25cm). Spread the mashed potato over the top of the mince and use the back of a spoon to create a wavy texture in the potato. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and dot over the remaining 15g butter. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the potato is golden brown on top and piping hot throughout. Allow to stand for 5 minutes before serving with green veg. Per serving 2163kJ/518kcals/29g fat/16g saturated fat/30g carbs/7.6g sugars/5g bre/28g protein/1.1g salt The Best with Martha Collison Food&Drink MARTHA’S TIPS Browning the meat rst caramelises its surface, which intensi es that rich meaty avour. Work in small batches – if you overcrowd the pan, the meat will release water and end up boiling rather than frying. Adding mushrooms bolsters the meat sauce, and lends umami richness. Blitz them until coarse – they disappear into the sauce, so mushroom-avoiders won’t know they’re there! Red wine adds luxury to your pie, but if you’re not keen leave it out and replace with 125ml beef stock mixed with 1 tbsp red wine vinegar. For lump-free mash, use a potato ricer. You can get a similar e ect by passing your mashed potato through a sieve. For extra crunch on your pie, try topping with 2 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Garlic & Rosemary Crust just before baking. Save on chopping time by using 500g frozen Cooks’ Ingredients So ritto to replace the separate onion, carrot and celery. For quick mash, use a 700g pack of frozen Waitrose Mashed Potato. Cook according to pack instructions, then mix in 25g butter and 50ml milk. You can chill your unbaked pie (covered) for up to 2 days, or freeze whole or in individual portions for up to 3 months.

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