Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 613

18 AUGUST 202 2 19 DIANA HENRY Meal maths Pork, corn & feta tacos ” “ Ice cream deserves the utmost care and consideration to be fully enjoyed One of the things I enjoyed about going out for ice creams as a childwas the biscuits that camewith them. Therewere fancy ones –wafer cigars with chocolate that you got in sundaes; langues de chat that had a pleasing snap andwere servedwith bowlfuls of any flavour and, if youwere in an old-fashioned café that sold cakes, youmight get shortbread.Whenwewent tomy granny’s, we had scoops of vanillawith pink andwhitewafers. An ice-cream slider – a slice of ice cream froma block sandwiched between two thin wafers and wrapped tightly in greaseproof paper – is what I ordered from the ice-cream shop in our nearest seaside town. I preferred the ratio of wafer to ice cream. I could never understand why people liked ice-cream cones – they tasted of polystyrene and straw, but they were a useful development. Somany stories claim that ice-cream cones were ‘invented’ at theWorld’s Fair in St Louis, Missouri, in 1904. The story goes that an ice-creamvendor ran out of glasses for his ice cream so grabbed a wa e, formed it into a cone shape to hold ice creamand voila! It’s almost certainly not true, but there was a need for such a thing. The business of washing and drying loads of bowls and spoons was neither economical nor hygienic. An edible receptacle was the perfect solution. I still don’t like ice-cream cones, but I do think that ice cream should be served with something. Naked ice cream feels mean, unfinished, not properly dressed. Youmust have a little something on the side. I wouldn’t dreamof making cones or wafers (though if you fancy it, consult Ices: The Definitive Guide by RobinWeir and Caroline Liddell, as it has a recipe). I usuallymake langues de chat, shortbread or, for something softer, meltingmoments. But it’s summer – do you really want to put the oven on? I’ve spent a constructive afternoon looking at what would go with chocolate, raspberry and vanilla ice creams. Currently inmy onlineWaitrose shopping basket are Ines Rosales Orange Sweet Olive Oil Tortas, the thinnest, lightest Spanish biscuits. They’remade with olive oil and dissolve in your mouth. They’d be gorgeous with chocolate ice cream. No.1 Co ee Shortbread would be excellent too, as would the buttery Island Bakery LemonMelts, made on the Isle of Mull. No.1 Croquants de Cordes, a crunchy French biscuit made with almonds and egg whites, would go with any flavour, and Waitrose Salted Caramel All Butter Cookies are good for pure vanilla lovers (and children don’t get chocolate everywhere with these). The Levantine Table Pistachio and Rose Shortbread would be perfect with raspberry ice cream, and so would No.1 Lavender Shortbread. An interesting biscuit to eat with your ice creamon a summer’s day isn’t crucial, but it’s good to care about the small things. Wafers, langues de chat and amaretti are all fine, but it’s amazing what else is out there. ‘Ice cream should be served with something. Naked ice cream feels mean, unfinished, not properly dressed’ DianaHenry is The Sunday Telegraph’s food writer. @dianahenryfood Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. Place the pork kebab onto a baking tray and cook according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, place a dry frying pan over amediumheat and lightly toast each taco, keeping the others warm in between. Remove the skewers from the oven and carve the kebab into slices, then toss themeat with the cooking juices to coat. Spread some of the dip over each taco, then top with the pork and finish with the drained onion pickles. Serve with coriander to garnish, if liked. Serves 4 Ready in 1 hour 10 minutes 800g pack Mexicaninspired pork king kebab ½ x 400g tub Vadasz Red Onion Fresh Pickles The best barbecue ribs are slowly cooked for hours, until the meat falls off the bone – with our Slow Cooked Barbecue Beef Short Ribs, that’s already done for you, so all you have to do is änish them off on the barbecue PAUL GAMBLE Partner & senior brand development chef 180g tub spicy corn dip with feta & charred corn 300g pack Gran Luchito Mexican Soft Taco Wraps Baking Imperfect Lottie Bedlow This book’s title reflects the journey to baking proficiency taken by former Bake O contender Lottie. “I taught myself baking through trial and error,” she writes. “And when things go a bit wrong, just remember – who cares? As long as it tastes good.” Lottie shares biscuit recipes, including her lockdown favourite quarantine florentines, cakes such as her Etonmess gâteau and pastries including a chocolate, liquorice and blackcurrant tart. Best of all is the chapter of family recipes, which includes cousin Jess’ Irish stout cake and her nan’s Bakewell bites. Chetna’s Easy Baking ChetnaMakan Following her recent forays into all-round cooking, Chetna, another Bake O alumnus, is firmly back on home ground. This collection promises simple bakes with a twist of spice. Recipes include her pea and potato sabji stu ed bread, which features amasala-spiced samosa filling encased in a soft, flu y loaf. Then there’s her chocolate, cardamomand pistachio cookies, a sa ron fennel loaf cake with a zingy lemon drizzle, and her peanut masala tear-and-share rolls – an Indian take on a classic Chelsea bun traybake. The Vegan Baking Bible Karolina Tegelaar “I hate the low standards that are so common in vegan baking,” writes Karolina. “The whole point of baking is that it should be luxurious and decadent. Anything that doesn’t taste really good is pointless.” Swedish biologist-turned-baker Karolina duly delivers, withmore than 300 recipes and a scientific analysis of vegan baking, including a breakdown of di erent egg replacements. Expect aquafaba-based madeleines, classic carrot cake, and a vegan version of her homeland’s favourite chocolate cake, kladdkaka. Bake It. Slice It. Eat It TomOxford &Oliver Coysh Tomand Ollie are the duo behind Exeter’s The Exploding Bakery, a café born out of frustration with the standard of British co ee shops. Their recipes start with ‘look-mumno-hands’ bakes such as blueberry slices and lemon drizzle cake, beforemoving into more ambitious territory, with a summer fruit meringue-topped sponge and a sea buckthorn cheesecake. Along the way, you will encounter legions of flapjacks, blondies and brownies, such as themarmalade on toast brownie. Books Baking releases Recipe writer: Zoe Simons, Photography: Tara Fisher, Food stylist: Joss Herd, Prop stylist: Wei Tang Writers: Paul Dring, Frances Quinn, Jane Hornby