Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 613

SUMMER FESTIVAL GATHER AND FEAST ELLY CURSHEN A stunning vegan Caesar with crispy tofu croutons p22 IRVINE WELSH Life and times of the literary enfant terrible p10 WEDDING TAILS Why couples are adding their dogs to the guest list p42 It’s the season to be sociable, and these meaty New York-style beefburgers with all the trimmings will be a sureäre hit, p30 OFFERS Great summer savings on selected drinks p46 FREE 18 August 2022 Next issue out 1 September

18 AUGUST 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS Cod and haddock have been elbowed aside in favour of locally caught whiting, dab, pouting and unfashionable weaver fish, whilemenus have been pared back and – to slash food waste – customers are for the first time being charged for side dishes. They are among a battery of culinary ‘swaps’ andmeasures introduced by Jack Stein, chef-director of the Stein Group at the six restaurants his family runs in Cornwall, to try tomaintain an even keel amid the cost of living crisis. “Coming out of Covid, everyone had smaller menus as that simplifies things as well as reducing costs,” reflects Jack. “But we have since been battling with soaring expenses and trying not to pass those on to customers. “A big thing has been putting more unusual – and cheaper – locally-caught fish species onto our menus. Weaver fish (which lurk in the sand and are best known for their sting) is one that we have always turned our noses up at but it’s a delicious and a ordable alternative to sole, which we serve with a tasty lime butter emulsion.” It costs £20 for Restaurants adapt to offer diners more affordable options With the cost of living continuing to rise, and beset by shortages of produce and sta , inventive ways are being devised to keep customers happy and bills down, writes Rebecca Smithers amain, compared with an eye-watering £45 for Dover and £30 for lemon sole. Restaurants and pubs in the UK, which were just starting to bounce back from the pandemic and Brexit, are being hit by rocketing prices and inflation – which is at a 40 year high – alongside the harsh reality of changes in the way consumers go out to eat and drink. Amid steep rises in the costs of ingredients, they are seeking more creative ways to avoid increasing prices for diners. As well as substituting cheaper foods, restaurants have been overhauling and simplifying menus in favour of set price and tasting options. To tackle sta shortages they have been closing on some days, reducing the number of covers and introducing flexi hours for sta – longer days withmore time o . At The Unruly Pig in Su olk, a gastropub with a slew of awards, chef-patron DaveWall says it has managed to stay open seven days a week. “We have taken a di erent approach and capped numbers – instead of 70 covers each service, we limit it to 46.” Chefs who have sustainability at the heart of their businesses say they have been well placed to adapt menus to accommodate gluts or shortages of ingredients. At Hypha in Chester, dishes can change fromday to day, showcasing ingredients from local suppliers, growers and foragers, while it is upfront with customers about chargingmore if prices rise. The restaurant, which serves a plant-based menu withminimal foodmiles and boasts a ‘fermentation lab’, has retained itsMichelin ‘green star’ in recognition of its sustainable policies. Managing director Nicholas Friar says Hypha has morphed from serving only small plates to a 12-course tastingmenu – currently priced at £120 including the wine flight. “We serve this at one sitting at one table to reduce the number of interactions and ease pressure on sta ,” he explains. “The turbulence caused by sky-rocketing prices and the scarcity of chefs presents a taste of what we can expect as the impact of climate change a ects food production,” adds Juliane Caillouette-Noble of the Sustainable Restaurant Association. “It’s also giving chefs an opportunity to showcase their creativity and innovation, using all of every ingredient available and focusing on the finest produce.” The restaurant – which o ered dedicated, multi-choice vegetarian, vegan and dairyfreemenus – has incorporated these into a shorter standard à la cartemenu and has taken o its brill main course for which it would have had to charge £40. In London, Roberto Costa of Macellaio – with six Italian restaurants across the capital – says he imports 70%of his ingredients from Italy, where the prices of transport and electricity have soared by up to 35%. The self-styled ‘Butcher’s Theatre’ still has numerous steak options on themenu, but it has trimmed the number of courses, with a £35 pre-theatre and £20 set lunchmenu both popular. To help ease the sta shortage, in September his company is openingMatooro Academy to train young apprentices. CHANGING WAYS Jack Stein (main); Roberto Costa (top left); Dave Wall (above left); The Unruly Pig ( left); pumpkin tartlet from Hypha ( far left) ‘Chefs have an opportunity to showcase their creativity and innovation, using all of every ingredient available’ Cover photography: Photography: Con Poulos, Food stylist: Sian Davies, Prop stylist: Wei Tang, Photography: Maja Smend, Food stylist: Sian Davies, Prop stylist: Wei Tang, Alistair Linford/Shutterstock, Photography: Clare Winäeld, Food stylist: Liberty Fennell, Prop stylist: Rosie Jenkins, Stewart Girvan

18 AUGUST 202 2 3 Photography: Zodee Media, Claudia Gannon, Paul Winch-Furness, Rick Barrett/ Ambitious Creative, Simon Burt, Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images, Allen Murray Hockney art goes under the hammer An award-winning food shop that shares space withWaitrose in Cornwall is copying its neighbour by becoming an employeeowned business. Established in 2016, The Great Cornish Food Store in Tregurra Park, Truro, is the UK’s only example of a completely independent food retailer sharing its premises with amajor supermarket. The shop has its own butcher, fishmonger and deli, and all its food and drink is sourced fromaround 200 local suppliers. Products on sale include fish, crab and lobster caught daily, meat fromanimals raised on Cornish farms, freshly baked Cornish pasties, andmore than 40 locally made cheeses. Customers can also pre-order picnics to take to the beach. Now founder RuthHuxley is celebrating the shop’s sixth anniversary by giving sta a share in the profits, much like the John Lewis Partnership – the UK’s largest employee-owned company. “The store is in great shape, and we have an incredible teamwho verymuch deserve Cornish food shop hands ownership to its employees A career-spanning collection of DavidHockney’s works will go under the hammer in London next month, o ering the chance to buy a bona fide piece of art history. With advance price estimates ranging from£1,000 to £250,000, dozens of Hockney pieces – frompencil sketches to original paintings – will be available to bidders at auctioneers Phillips, in London’s Berkeley Square, on 13 September. The 85-year-old artist is best known for his coloursaturated California pool paintings of the 60s and 70s and recent iPad impressions of the seasonally shifting landscape in his native Yorkshire. He is pictured (left) in front of one of the lots, his 2011 work The Arrival of Spring inWoldgate, East Yorkshire. All the pieces belong to collectors Andrew and Sandy Ovenstone, owners of Cape Town’s famed Stellenberg Gardens, who plan to use the proceeds to invest in contemporary works by South African artists. Alice Ryan a boost after all the challenges they have handled so admirably over the past two years,” says Ruth. “I’m convinced we can really power ahead as a purpose-driven company, becoming evenmore successful while preserving our values and integrity.” Renowned for its dairy produce and the fresh fish and seafood caught on its shores, Cornwall is a food lovers’ destination. Put firmly on the culinarymap by Rick Stein in the 70s, it has attracted acclaimed chefs such asMichael Caines and Jude Kereama. Cornwall’s current Michelin-starred restaurants are Outlaw’s NewRoad and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen – both in Port Isaac and by Stein protégé Nathan Outlaw – and Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 in Padstow. Emma Higginbotham NEW-LOOK PARTNERSHIP The Great Cornish Food Store in Truro ( left); fishmonger Tom Jonik (below) SHAKEN OR STIRRED? A robotic bartender named Toni has joined the team at new virtual reality gaming venue Sandbox VR in London. Using an app, players can order everything from a spritz to a negroni, which is made by a pair of robotic arms. Created by Italian robotics company Makr Shakr, Toni can put together 80 drinks an hour, and can also slice lemons and brew coffee. SUMMER SUPPORT Throughout the holidays, Waitrose is helping households with a free childrens’ lunch bag, when customers spend £5 or more in their cafés. Children can choose one sandwich, a drink, a piece of fruit and two treats, including milk chocolate mini rice cakes and Pom-Bear crisps. There are 130 cafés taking part, with the offer running until Tuesday 6 September. BURGER MASTERS National Burger Day is on 25 August, so take inspiration from top patty joints such as Lucky Chip, whose ‘El Chapo’ features bacon, roasted jalapeños, blue cheese and aïoli, or Blacklock, which caramelises its onions in vermouth. Try a plantbased sweetcorn fritter from Mother Flipper’s, or a potato and onion patty with lime pickle, soy yogurt, poppadom and pickled red chillies inspired by Meatliquor’s ‘Burgaloo’. SUPER SLUG A rare åuorescent sea slug (below) has been spotted in UK waters for the ärst time. The 2cm-long multicoloured babakina anadoni, which has only been recorded a handful of times worldwide, was photographed off the Isles of Scilly by a volunteer diver from Cornwall Wildlife Trust. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of uplifting stories

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18 AUGUST 202 2 5 NEWS&VI EWS ANNA SHEPARD MY WEEK Alvin Hall WEEK 31: TRYING DIY DEODORANT It’s a particularly warmweek when we decide tomake our own deodorant. Using a recipe by low-waste living experts Fairyland Cottage, wemixmelted coconut oil with cornflour and bicarb and drops of lavender essential oil. It then hardens in a jam jar in the fridge. It’s a fa applying it with your finger, reports my teenager, but it smells decent. The bicarb neutralises odour and coconut oil is antibacterial. Although the hot weather provides a challenging test environment, trips to our local lido onmost days takes the pressure o our concoction. We find it holds back odour, but doesn’t stop you sweating. For holidays, or quiet days at home, I’d use it – but I’mnot chucking out my shopbought roll-on just yet. Going froma spray to a roll-on is an easier shift, and an important one, according to a newUniversity of York study. While harmful chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) are no longer used in aerosols, these have been replaced with volatile organic compounds (VOCs) such as propane and butane, which contribute to indoor pollution. “The widespread switching of aerosols to non-VOC alternatives would lead to potentiallymeaningful reductions in air pollution,” says Alastair Lewis, science director at the National Centre for Atmospheric Science. “Making small changes in what we buy could have amajor impact on both outdoor and indoor air quality.” For a vegan and aluminium-free option, I likeMitchumPowder deodorant. For less packaging, the Natural Deodorant Company o ers balms in glass jars. Another (cheaper) way to lower your deodorant’s environmental impact is to just use it less, but that would mean several showers a day to stay fresh. My year of living sustainably These past few days have workedmy last good nerve. I am currently living inmy bedroom, with only a narrow path to the bed. I’m surrounded by stacks of art books, cookbooks, biographies, anthologies and fiction. Totemic African sculptures, ceramics and decorative objects are crowded together onmy dresser, nightstands and every flat surface. Chairs, lamps and taborets are geometrically arranged next to and on top of each other in di erent ways – all to get as many pieces in the roomas possible. And there’s dust everywhere, even though I keep the bedroomdoor closed. Before I get into bed at night, I want to shake o the sheets. When I wake, my first instinct is to shake the dust o my body, but I’mafraid of knocking something over and breaking it. I amhavingmy apartment painted, a process that always seems to fall in the ‘be careful what you wish for’ column. At the end of June, I decided to refreshmy place as a birthday present tomyself. It was the beginning of a new decade inmy life. It felt like the perfect time for new colours, a new installation of art, and a simplified furniture arrangement. I knewmy spirits would be lifted each day just walking into the freshened rooms. At the start of the week, the painter discoveredmore cracks in the plaster walls that need repair. This means the painting is likely to take longer – a lot longer – and cost more. When I heard his every word, I just had to sit down, but there was no chair in that room. Since then, I findmyself thinking about an old friend who toldme that she’d rather move than have her apartment painted. At the time, I thought she was being dramatic. However, when her place eventually became an unsightlymess of unpainted patches from repairs, with sheets of cracked and peeling paint dangling from the ceiling, she sold the place as is and bought a freshly painted, new place that she wouldn’t have to decorate for at least 10 years. I remember the happiness and relief she radiated when shemoved in. Whilemy apartment is not nearly as bad as hers was, it needed freshening. During lockdown, my neighbours above me retreated to their country house. Unfortunately, during a heavy rainstorm, their terrace drains failed. The water collected and overflowed intomy apartment, causing leaks in the ceiling and walls in almost every roomof my place. More than a year ago, after everything dried out, I had the damage repaired and plastered, but I delayed having the areas painted. This week’s realisation is that I failed to fully anticipate how time-consuming, emotion-consuming, and crazy-making the process would be. It has slowed to the point of feeling torturous. Because of the rules of my apartment building, the painter can work only from9am to 5pmon weekdays, and never on weekends or holidays. I have come to view every full-day break in his schedule as a gift. I spend time alone in my apartment dusting and cleaning. I know it is fruitless, but it makes me feel better. I told the painter, who is meticulous, that I needed one room that is in perfect order, so I can remember why I was going through this stressful mess. So, he beautifully completed the smallest bathroom. I keep it spotless. It is my beaming light at the end of the tunnel. I retreat there with copies of TheWorld of Interiors to calmmyself, to remindmyself of the reward that awaits me... whenever that may be! Life is full of trials and decorating your home is definitely up there Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart Illustration: Alex Green/Folioart

18 AUGUST 202 2 6 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover j l There aremany reasons why I’mgladmy childhood was largely set in the 80s. Not just because of the joy of Duran Duran andWham!. Not just because I didn’t have to judge myself against theworld onTikTok. Not just because of rainy summers. Lots of things were the same as today, though. Parents nagged. School felt rigid. The summer break was too long. And, if you have a 16- or 18-year-old, there’s the calendar dread. Results day looms. It’s a strange day, when a line of figures tells a story about you, using no adjectives, no alternative endings and no background knowledge. Mine went like this: 3As, 4Bs and a C. And two years later, anA and aD. They are neither stellar nor appalling. They also, in adult life, mean nothing tome, while also being the single most important judgement onmy education. I’maware these results would get me nowhere in today’s competitive university entrancemarketplace. And I’mnot sharing them for the tedious ‘don’t worry if you failed, look where I’ve got to’ thing. Where you get to in life has more to do with opportunity, self-confidence, support, timing and not meeting prejudice on the way. I hope future generations findmore realistic ways to determine our abilities and future worth to society. New exam subjects would be a start. How about a pandemic studies GCSE combining science, geography, economics, psychology and even food, nutrition and PE? Or one in adaptability – the key skill of future generations, according to experts. A social media A Level could take in learnings from literature – Icarus sailing too close to the sun, the hubris in Greek tragedies – as well as coding and algorithms. And there’s still nowhere on entry forms where your home life is appraised for its calmness, or parents graded for their support. Where’s your chance to explain that it took you two hours to get to school every day or you got distracted by Alan/Ava in year 10, but you’re over it now? Or if the phrase: “You can turn your paper over now,” rendered you static with fear? These things contribute so much to how you do. I’d love to see some disruption to the system. I certainly don’t want to be an older person who says: “Plus ça change.” Even though it is one of the few phrases I know in French (Grade C – très disappointing). The other one is bonne chance – and I wish you lots of it. ‘How about a pandemic studies GCSE, or one in adaptability, the key skill of future generations?’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover When looking for a project to enjoy in retirement, most people go for something relaxing. An allotment, perhaps, or travelling. Not RamDass Chahal. His retirement is spent with wife Nirmala Dev tending the 8,000 grapevines he hand-planted on his 10 acres of land in Telford, Shropshire, creating Rodington Vineyard from scratch over the past 13 years. Arriving in the UK from the Punjab with his family in 1964, aged 17, RamDass began work in a Birmingham foundry, with Nirmala arriving a few years later to bemarried, as had always been agreed. When the foundry shut down he worked as a delivery driver, covering up to 500miles a day to provide for their gradually expanding family of five children. Later, the family settled in Telford when he secured another foundry job there. Years of physical work took their toll on his health, but RamDass noticed “the headaches, the sinus problems all disappeared when I would work onmy allotment. So I toldmy family that when I retired, I wanted to work in the fields. They said: ‘Dad, you have worked hard all your life, you should have whatever you want.’” The 10 acres of former grazing land a fewmiles from the family home was bought with savings, and when RamDass retired at 63 after the foundry closed, he decided to plant the orchard he’d visualised. However, the expert he consulted surveyed the sandy soil and exposed terrain and ruled out fruit Taking retirement goals to an award-winning level When RamDass Chahal created his vineyard, he didn’t even drink wine, but his quiet determination and commitment have earned him respect and success, writes Ellie Stott grape expectations Ram Dass Chahal’s wines have won several awards since his retirement project bore fruit Photography: Leon Foggitt

18 AUGUST 202 2 7 Photography: Lorne Thomson/Redferns/Getty Images 1 Where do you live? In North London with husband Stephen, daughter Ellie and Tibetan terrier Muttley. We got a dog because Ellie’s an only child – we hated the idea of her not having anyone to stomp off to her room with. 2How was turning 60? Traumatic! I thought I wouldn’t care, then about a week before I went: “Oh my goodness...” It’s just that life is so precious. You want to slow it down because it goes by so fast, but also it makes me determined to have an absolute ball. 3Are you a good cook? Yes. I cook to relax. My signature dish is wild mushroom risotto. I’ve always got the ingredients handy. 4Do people ask you more about acting or Altered Images? It’s a mixed bag. Some ask about Red Dwarf and Gregory’s Girl, and teenagers go: “You were the crazy mum in Skins!” Then I’ll be on the Tube and someone next to me will subconsciously sing [Altered Images’ 1981 hit] Happy Birthday. 5How did Mascara Streakz, your ärst album for 39 years, come about? During lockdown, I realised how much I missed singing. Stephen is an amazing musician, so we wrote some songs together. A friend said: “I’ll get you a deal on this” – and he did. 6Is it ‘true’ you’re the inspiration for Spandau Ballet’s number 1 single True? Gary Kemp said that, but I’m always embarrassed when people bring it up. They’re like: “It’s about you? You?! It makes me laugh. 7What would little Clare think of grown-up Clare? What a show off ! Mascara Streakz by Altered Images is out on 26 August. Interview: EmmaHigginbotham The actress and Altered Images singer on hitting 60 and inspiring a classic hit 7 QUESTIONS WITH… CLARE GROGAN trees on the spot. “Maybe grapes?” he suggested instead, more or less as a parting shot. RamDass was undeterred. “I didn’t mind what I grew, I just wanted to be out in the fields,” he recalls. With no experience of viticulture, he contacted agricultural college Harper Adams University, hoping to join a course. “They said: ‘We have no interpreter here and you have no formal education, we can’t take you.’ I said: ‘So you can’t helpme?’ They replied: ‘Oh no, we’ll help you, we just can’t admit you.’ They put him in touch withWroxeter Roman Vineyard, just a fewmiles fromhis land, where the owners lent him their expertise and equipment – a generosity of spirit that’s been typical, he says, throughout the wine community ever since. The Chahals faced a backbreaking task. Countless heavy posts were hauled in and 14kmof wire was hand strung ready for the vines. Planting took five years, with constant vigilance needed to defend the new shoots from rabbits and frost. Everything was done by hand, the only farm machinery being the old, broken blue tractor left behind in the sale, which later became the inspiration for the vineyard’s wine label. Although the couple’s children all have jobs of their own, they pitch in with business, practical and financial support. New vines take four to seven years to bear suitable fruit and their financial help has seen the vineyard through the early years of endless outlay. “I paid to look after themand now they pay to look after us,” says RamDass with a twinkle. The first harvest in 2013, four years after the first vines were planted, was ‘like Christmas’, says daughter Kiran, who helps with book keeping andmarketing. Expectations weren’t high, as they’d been warned young vines wouldn’t produce anything of quality. But they won six awards, with an international accolade the following year. Life at Rodington hasn’t always been rosé. A sudden late frost in June 2020 killed o a swathe of young grapes and vastly reduced the size and quality of that year’s harvest, but the vines were spared. Then RamDass su ered a heart attack and stroke, though he has recovered well. Today, production, which takes place at regional winemaking facility Halfpenny Vineyard, runs to a healthy 17,000 bottles a year. Nine grape varieties are grown at Rodington and RamDass chooses the blends himself. Not much of a wine drinker (he sometimes opens a bottle of red), hemakes his judgement by tasting the grapes, while Nirmala and Kiran don’t drink alcohol at all. Their own-label, easy-drinking reds fromRondo grapes are enormously popular and are award-winners, along with whites including Solaris, Bacchus and Ortega. Rodington wines are stocked by local merchants and restaurants and there’s a brisk trade from their onsite shop. Tastings and tours are on hold post lockdown, but there’s surely an income stream in pairing wines withNirmala’s Indian cooking, using herbs and veg she grows in the garden. Barns were built with the aimof producing wine on site, but no one seems in a hurry to follow the boutique vineyard trend. Other than the occasional trip to India to see family, the couple don’t take holidays. “Here, we have sun and a view, no worries and our own beds,” says Nirmala. “But look at this view…” says Kiran. It’s a glorious, hear-a-pin-drop, south-facing landscape with views across miles of fields towards theWrekin and Shropshire Hills. The vines are healthy and they also grow a variety of laden fruit trees – which would no doubt surprise the expert RamDass consulted. It could be the perfect place to put your feet up, do nothing and watch birds wheel in the sky, but it’s also an idyllic place to work. “This is not a job for them,” says Kiran quietly. “It’s therapy,” rodingtonvineyard.co.uk ‘I didn’t mind what I grew. I just wanted to be out in the fields’ easy does it Ram Dass and Nirmala by the old tractor seen on their wine labels; Ram Dass tends to his vines (right); daughter Kiran (below)

18 AUGUST 202 2 9 NEWS&VI EWS Photography: Entertainment Films, George Baggaley, James Hole, Hulton Archive/Getty Images Sea shanties have been dubbed ‘the rock ’n’ roll of 1752’, but even on dry land they couldn’t bemore in vogue. They’ve trended on social media, topped the charts and got the world harmonising. And their revival was kickstarted by folk group Fisherman’s Friends, who’ve sung for more than 25 years on the harbour at Port Isaac in Cornwall. In 2010, they netted a record deal which saw thembecome the first traditional folk act with a UKTop 10 album. In 2011, they played on the same stage as Beyoncé at Glastonbury, an occasion depicted in Fisherman’s Friends: One And All, the sequel to 2019’s hit filmabout their discovery, which is in cinemas from tomorrow (19 August). Amusical is due to set sail for theatres from 1 September. So why are shanties increasingly popular? “They’re ripe for amateurs, that’s the lovely thing. You don’t need a voice,” says James Purefoy, star of the two films, who was taught by the group in their local, The Golden Lion. (Yes, rehearsals were “a little bit lubricated”, he admits) “Shanties have a good verse and incredible rhythm, so they’re easy to pick up,” he adds. “If you can growl and remember the lines, you’re away. They’re liberating to sing, too. Theymake people happy. And somany are sort of in our DNA as British people. Songs like Drunken Sailor, I’ve been singing since I was a kid.” Their simplicity is due to their original use – synchronising a ship’s crew for tasks such as raising sails or pulling up anchor, while injecting spirit, camaraderie and fun into proceedings. “The rhythmand pace of the song depended on the nature of the work,” explains Jon Cleave, the Fisherman’s ‘Shanties have a good verse and incredible rhythm... They’re liberating to sing, too. They make people happy’ Hello again, sailor As the world’s oldest ‘buoy band’ returns in the sequel to hit 2019 movie Fisherman’s Friends, Katherine Hassell explains why sea shanties are riding the crest of a musical wave Gary Barlow, BrianMay and Ant &Dec. Our collective spirits needed a lift as we pulled together against Covid. Nathan’s interpretation of Bristol folk quartet The Longest Johns’ 2018 recording was a UK number one. It continued a global shanty craze bolstered by The Longest Johns, who first tried singing them in their early twenties at a barbecue after hearing Fisherman’s Friends. “We fell in love with this incredible sound,” says band member Jonathan ‘JD’ Darley. “The human voice is the best instrument and hearing people sing in harmony is magical. It ended up being our mission – how to get this music in front of people andmake them realise it’s cool.” The answer was gaming. The band sang while playing pirates in action-adventure game Sea of Thieves and posted footage on YouTube. Their rendition of 19th-century New Zealand whaling song Wellerman went viral multiple times on social media. Nathan Evans then answered a fan request to cover it on TikTok. “And that was it,” says JD. “It exploded.” The Longest Johns invited fans to video themselves singing their track (itself a UK number 37) for a YouTube singalong, theWellermanCommunity Project. Some 6,500 did, including sailors, children and signers for the deaf. “I was thrilled to see people embrace Wellerman,” says Jon Cleave, “because Fisherman’s Friends have always had a diversity in the ages of people that enjoy our music. People have come to Port Isaac since they were children to listen to us. Now they’re bringing their kids and say: ‘They like to listen to your CDs all the way. We’ve had six hours’ worth!’” he adds. James Purefoy’s family is no di erent. “I’ve got kids – Ned and Kit are five – and if we try putting on anythingmore sophisticated than the albumof themovie, they get very cross,” he grins. “They want to sing shanties all the time.” The Longest Johns’ latest album, Smoke &Oakum, is out now Friend with the walrus moustache. “If you’re acting against tide and weather to heave up amassive anchor, it could take half a day, so these songs have repetitive rhythms and dozens of verses. A good shantyman was worth his weight in gold as the fine tuner of the engine – the engine being themen [it was mostlymen on board]. He kept themamused and in time.” This goes some way to explaining why ScotsmanNathan Evans went viral last year singing Wellerman on TikTok. And why thousands joined in with the harmonising, including ship shape Clockwise from left: James Purefoy (third from right) in Fisherman’s Friends: One and All; Jon Cleave ( front row, second from left) and the rest of the Fisherman’s Friends; The Longest Johns, including Jonathan Darley ( left); a scene from 19th-century ships, where sailors sang sea shanties as they worked

18 AUGUST 202 2 10 NEWS&VI EWS The Three decades on from Trainspotting, Irvine Welsh doesn’t mind being called the ‘ageing enfant terrible’ of British literature. “It means I’m still alive,” he tells Paul Kirkley When Weekend catches up with IrvineWelsh, he’s in his country bolthole inHenley-on-Thames, the Oxfordshire market town whose Royal Regatta is a highlight of the English upper-classes’ social season. It’s an unlikely location, then, in which to sit down and craft scabrous tales of drugs, violence and wasted lives on Scottish council housing schemes – the template established in Irvine’s seismic debut novel, Trainspotting. But it’s a long time since the writer lived anything like the lives he chronicles in his books. “I come here to write – it’s nice to get out of the city,” he explains. “You’ve got the Chilterns, for walking in… it’s pretty relaxing, and quite posh. Nothing really bad happens here.” That’s not something that could be said about Irvine’s new book, The Long Knives, in which really bad things happen prettymuch all the time, often in excruciatingly visceral detail. A sequel to his 2008 thriller Crime (recently adapted for TV, with Dougray Scott), it picks up the story of DI Ray Lennox, who is recovering froma breakdown induced by the stress of hunting a child killer (with a side order of cocaine and alcohol addiction). A cosy crime novel it is not – Irvine is on record as saying Crime was an attempt at “themost overthe-top, horrendous book I could write”. “I didn’t even think about writing a crime book, specifically,” he reflects. “It’s not like a police procedural thing. It’s more a psychological, existential thriller – it’s about Lennox trying to work out themystery of himself, his reactions to where he’s been and where he comes from.” As such, this is not a black-and-white world of heroes and villains. Here, the cops are often as morally compromised as the people they’re chasing. “They’re at the extreme end of policing – it’s not like they’re issuing tra c tickets,” says Irvine. “They’re working with themost messed up, deviant behaviour. They’re trying to understand this world they’re policing, and they’re obviously drawn to that kind of work because they have issues of their own.” It’s set, likemany of his books, in Edinburgh, the city where Irvine was born 63 years ago. While his work has remained rooted in his hometown, the author is something of a citizen of the world. Having lived in Barcelona, Chicago, Dublin and San Francisco, he now divides his time betweenMiami, London andHenley, as well as Edinburgh. Though he’s been spendingmore time back home recently. “I left Miami and went back to Edinburgh for lockdown, becausemymum’s quite old, and I wanted to be closer. I’ve kept a flat there for about 30 years – it’s one of the first things I did when I got some Trainspotting cash, I bought a place in the NewTown.” Irvine was born in Leith, where his dadworked on the docks, but grewup inMuirhouse, a council housing scheme blighted by social deprivation and heroin addiction. On leaving school at 16, he upped sticks to London, living in squats and squalid bedsits while playing guitar in various failed punk bands. He took lots of drugs andwas frequently arrested for petty crimes, before getting clean and returning to Edinburgh to take up a job in the council housing department. What he really wanted to be, though, was a writer, and Trainspotting – a bracing, scurrilous collection of vignettes about a group of heroin addicts looking to escape the shrinking horizons of life on theMuirhouse estate – announced the arrival of amajor new literary voice, one that inspired acclaimand outrage in equal measure. A long game

18 AUGUST 202 2 11 Photography: Stuart Simpson

18 AUGUST 202 2 12 NEWS&VI EWS Photography: Maximum Film/Alamy, Buccaneer Media and Off Grid Film and TV/Jed Knight Irvine says he’s “never been tempted to settle down. After six months in one place, I get antsy and want to go somewhere else.” But he is about to marry for the third time, to Scottish actress Emma Currie, with whom he’s been “stepping out for a couple of years”. Despite being at the heart of it, Irvine wasn’t impressed by the Cool Britannia of the mid-90s. He called it “a requiem mass for British culture. “It was just recycling the past for the global marketplace,” he says. Dougray Scott, who played Ray Lennox in last year’s BritBox/ITV adaptation of Crime, will be back for the TV version of The Long Knives. “We’re gearing up to shoot at the end of August,” says Irvine. “It’s strange to have a book coming out, and for it to be going straight into production.” stage version followed, but it was Danny Boyle’s propulsive, Britpop-soundtracked 1996 filmadaptation that proved the game changer, placing Irvine, then in his mid-thirties, alongside the likes of Damon Albarn and DamienHirst as one of the poster boys of so-called Cool Britannia. With success, came riches – no small adjustment in itself, for a boy fromMuirhouse. “Money is great,” he smiles. “There’s nothing wrong with havingmoney. Fame is the killer – I’m so surprised that people want to be famous. They’re crazy. What you want is money. Especially if you’re a writer, because it buys you time to write. That’s basically what I’ve bought withmoney – the freedom to pursuemy hobby.” In the 30 years since his breakthrough, he’s publishedmore than a dozen novels and short story collections (alongside plays and screenplays) including The AcidHouse, Glue and several Trainspotting sequels, charting the progress of Renton, Sick Boy, Begbie and co intomiddle age. His 1998 novel Filth – the story of a corrupt, junkie copper, partly narrated by the protagonist’s own tapeworm–was the first to introduce Ray Lennox, who a decade later would take centre stage in Crime. In The Long Knives, Lennox is called in to investigate a series of brutal attacks on a wealthy, abusivemen, including a ToryMP. It’s fair to say our hero is not entirely sympathetic to the victims, and anyone who follows Irvine on Twitter will knowhe’s not exactly shy about sharing his own views about Britain’s ruling classes. But it would be wrong to read the book as some kind of revenge fantasy, he insists. Rather, it’s ‘a cautionary tale’ about the frustrations of people who feel ‘completely powerless’ in a society ruled bymoneyed elites. If this makes him sound gloomy, though, he’s actually cheerfully optimistic about the imminent collapse of civilisation as we know it, to be replaced, he hopes, by “some kind of anarchy, where people in communities look after their own interest. I basically have great belief in the human spirit,” he says. “There’s no real intellectual grounds for that, it’s just a deep-rooted internal belief that it’s gonna be OK. Maybe that’s just naivety onmy part.” Irvine is no stranger to controversy, with Trainspotting cementing his reputation as the enfant terrible of British literature. In The Long Knives, he wades into the sharkinfested waters of gender and trans discourse. Is this dangerous territory – even for him? “Yeah, it is,” he says. “It’s really dangerous territory now. When you’re writing about a marginalised group, you have to be conscious of how they’ve been treated. I had a trans sensitivity reader – a trans person – for both the book and the [upcoming] TV adaptation, and I was dreading it, because I thought: ‘This is going to be some formof censor.’ But, actually, it’s been themost educative part of the whole process. They’ve both been brilliant, incredibly helpful and informative. I feel I’ve got educated as a result.” What’s his take on the furore surrounding fellowEdinburgh literary luminary, JKRowling? “It’s a terrible tragedy, the way the debate has been polarised,” he says. “If you look at what’s happening… trans people have been discriminated against for years and this needs to stop. But why should women take up all the slack from that? ‘Cos they’re themost discriminated against section of the population, and have been for years. Look at what’s happening in America, and the rolling back of women’s rights. I think that’s the thing people like Jo Rowling are concerned about. The idea that they hate trans people, I think, is nonsense. Everybody has to really take a step back and try to take the heat out of the situation.” With DI Lennox being a habitual cocaine user, it’s clear that, 30 years on from Trainspotting, Irvine remains as nonjudgemental about drugs as ever. “It’s just an unremarkable part of everyday life,” he shrugs. “It’s like trying to write about the Scottish countryside without themountains. It’s just part of the landscape.” And yet, he’d kicked his own heroin habit by the age of 24 – so he had an awareness, even then, that it leads to ruin? “It never did feel right, in a lot of ways,” he reflects. “Nobody really goes: ‘I’mgonna become a junkie, that sounds cool.’ Although maybe I did, in a way. I fell into it throughmisadventure, and when you do that, it’s easier to kick it than if you’re doing it to self-medicate against some deep-seated trauma.” How does he feel about the enfant terrible tag. “I prefer ‘ageing enfant terrible’,” he laughs. “They’ve been callingme that for about 30 years now. I don’t mind, though, it means I’m still alive.” But in an age of professional provocateurs, he is at least poking the ants’ nest for a reason, with a body of work that tackles themes such as class division, social exclusion and Scottish identity. “I think, as a writer, you have to say what you feel,” he considers. “You don’t want to be punching down, but you have to express what you believe to be fundamental psychological truths.” Has he ever set out to shock for shock’s sake? “Yeah,” he says, with a grin. “There’s a visceral element to all art, and you’re trying to get a reaction fromyourself, as much as anyone else. It’s OK to have a character behave as badly as you canmake them, as long as you show the consequences of that, on themselves and others. Without those consequences, it just becomes a gratuitous exercise. “I’mnot interested in the posture of being a kind of bad boy, for the sake of it. I’m interested in something that’s actually provokingme into a line of thought, a line of discourse about what’s actually going on in the world.” IrvineWelsh’s The Long Knives (Jonathan Cape, Vintage) is published in hardback and ebook on 25 August choose life Ewan McGregor in Danny Boyle’s Trainspotting (below); Dougray Scott and Joanna Vanderham in Crime (top) ‘As a writer you have to say what you feel. You don’t want to be punching down, but you have to express what you believe’ FACTS AND FICTIONS

18 AUGUST 202 2 13 FOOD&DRINK Summer special Patti Sloley’s exotic fruit salad with peppercorn syrup p17 Happy harvesting The husband and wife team producing perfect plums p18 Elly Curshen Vegan Caesar with tofu croutons and other quick creations p22

14 18 AUGUST 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Savings to savour At this time of year, I like to eat outside as often as I can – our summer can be so short and the weather so changeable that it seems a waste not to make the most of every sunny day, or even (perhaps more likely) every sunny hour. So instead of waiting for the weekend, or evenings when friends are coming over, even a quick supper after work is taken outside when it’s warm enough. This week’s recipes from Elly Curshen (p22) lend themselves perfectly – they’re quick and easy, light and summery. I’ve also made a batch of Patti Sloley’s exotic fruit salad (p17) to keep in the fridge and have for breakfast – and yes, I’ll be eating that in the garden too! ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Spicy prawn & red bean chilli with rice Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 10 minutes 1 tbsp olive oil 1 Essential Green Pepper, chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed ½ x 120g pack Cooks’ Ingredients Chorizo Crumbs 2 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Deep South Cajun Rub 395g can Essential Red Kidney Beans In Chilli Sauce 250g pack wholegrain, wild & red rice 150g pack Essential Cooked King Prawns ¼ x 25g pack coriander, chopped, to serve 1 Heat the oil in a medium frying pan over a mediumhigh heat. Add the green pepper and sauté until soft, for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, chorizo and Cajun rub and cook for 1 minute more, until fragrant. 2 Pour in the beans and sauce, along with 50ml water, then stir and reduce the heat. Simmer for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the rice according to pack instructions. 3 Stir the prawns into the beans and simmer for about 1 minute, or until hot through. Serve over the rice then scatter with the coriander. Per serving 2804kJ/668kcals/23g fat/6g saturated fat/69g carbs/13g sugars/16g äbre/37g protein/3.9g salt Creamy pea & spinach tagliatelle with minty breadcrumbs Serves 4 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 10 minutes 100g Essential Spinach, leaves washed 150g frozen Essential Garden Peas, defrosted 2 cloves garlic 1 Essential Lemon, scrubbed, zest and juice 150ml Essential Double Cream 2 tbsp olive oil 40g fresh Cooks’ Ingredients Soft White Breadcrumbs 500g pack fresh Essential Tagliatelle ½ x 25g pack mint, änely chopped 1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Meanwhile, in a blender, blitz the spinach, peas, garlic, lemon zest, cream and 1 tbsp oil until smooth. Pour into a small saucepan and simmer on a low heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. 2 In a small frying pan, heat the remaining oil over a medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and cook until golden and toasted, for about 1 minute. Season and set aside to cool. Cook the pasta according to pack instructions. 3 Drain the pasta, reserving 100ml cooking water. Return the pasta to its pan, add the pea sauce and lemon juice, then toss to coat. Add the pasta water a splash at a time, until the sauce is smooth and creamy. Mix the mint with the toasted breadcrumbs and serve over the pasta. V Per serving 2185kJ/523kcals/28g fat/13g saturated fat/52g carbs/4g sugars/4.6g äbre/12g protein/0.2g salt Cook’s tip You can control the consistency of the chilli sauce by adding more water, a splash at a time, without compromising the robust åavours. Cook’s tip Our fresh pasta is super quick to cook, and made with free range eggs for a more luxurious åavour and texture. Dried pasta in the cupboard already? Start the recipe by boiling 400g for 10 minutes, or until just tender.

15 18 AUGUST 202 2 Looking to save money on your food bills without sacrificing any of the flavour? The Weekend food team has created these simple and delicious midweek meals – all making the most of our great value, great quality Essential range Cook’s tip If you don’t have a special steamer pan, don’t worry. Set the beans in a metal colander or sieve over a pan of water and set a pan lid on top. Cook’s tip If you like a little heat, try using Essential Peppered Smoked Mackerel Fillets instead. Waste not The broccoli stalk is too good to waste. Diced and cooked with the rest of the broccoli, it adds a lovely crunch and extra äbre. Pork chop piccata with green beans Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 15 minutes 240g pack Essential Round Beans, trimmed 1 tbsp plain åour 400g pack Essential Pork Chops 1 tbsp olive oil 60g Essential Unsalted Butter 1 shallot, änely chopped 1 tbsp capers, drained 1 Essential Lemon, scrubbed, zest and juice, plus wedges to serve, if liked 1 Steam the beans for 10 minutes, until tender. Meanwhile, season the åour and spread it over a plate. Pat the pork chops dry, then coat with åour. Shake off any excess, then set aside. 2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat. When the oil looks slick and shiny, add the pork chops, frying for 7-8 minutes, turning occasionally, until golden, no pink meat remains and the juices run clear. Transfer the chops to a clean plate lined with kitchen paper. Turn off the heat under the pan and carefully wipe it out with kitchen paper. 3 Return the pan to a low heat. Add the butter and, once completely melted, add the shallot and sauté for 1 minute, until starting to soften. Stir in the capers and lemon zest and juice, then turn off the heat. Serve the pork chops with the steamed round beans and spoon the butter sauce over everything. Add a wedge of lemon for squeezing, if liked. Per serving 2512kJ/605kcals/46g fat/17g saturated fat/13g carbs/4.5g sugars/5.9g äbre/32g protein/0.8g salt Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 500g Essential Charlotte Potatoes, halved lengthways 2 Essential Leeks, trimmed and sliced into 1.5cm rounds 1½ tbsp olive oil 100ml Essential British Crème Fraîche 2 Essential Limes, scrubbed, zest of 1, juice of both x 20g pack dill, änely änely chopped 1 clove garlic, änely grated 100g Essential Kale 1 pack Essential Hot Smoked Scottish Mackerel Fillets, about 300g 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7, with a large baking tray on the middle shelf. In a large bowl, toss the potatoes, leeks and 1 tbsp oil. Season. Remove the hot tray from the oven and spread the potato and leek mixture evenly onto it. Bake for 20 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche, lime zest and juice, dill and garlic until well combined. Season to taste and set aside. Toss the kale in the remaining ½ tbsp oil, rubbing the oil well into the leaves, then set aside. Pull the mackerel into åakes, removing the skin – watch for any bones. 3 When the potatoes and leeks have had 20 minutes, remove from the oven and top with the kale and mackerel. Return to the oven and bake for 5 minutes more. Serve with the dill lime cream. Per serving 1936kJ/465kcals/31g fat/9.5g saturated fat/25g carbs/5g sugars/4.7g äbre/20g protein/0.8g salt Black bean chicken with broccoli & cashews Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 418g pack Essential British Diced Chicken Breast 2 tbsp wok oil 1 large head Essential Broccoli, cut into small åorets, stalk diced 1 onion, cut into bitesized pieces 1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced 275g pack egg noodles 120g pack black bean stir fry sauce 90g Essential Cashew Nuts 1 tsp toasted sesame oil, optional, or 1 tsp wok oil 1 Pat the chicken dry with kitchen paper, then cut into bitesized chunks. Season and set aside. In a large wok or frying pan, heat 1 tbsp wok oil over a high heat. Add the chicken and stir fry for about 10-12 minutes until golden, the juices run clear and no pink meat remains. Transfer to a plate and set aside. 2 Return the pan to the heat and add the remaining wok oil. Add the broccoli, onion and chilli and stir fry for 3 minutes until taking on a little colour. Pour in 150ml water and cook for about 3 minutes, until the water evaporates and the broccoli is just tender. Meanwhile, cook the noodles in the microwave according to pack instructions. 3 Reduce the heat under the wok to medium, then stir in the cooked chicken, black bean sauce and ½ the cashews. Cook for 1 minute to heat through, then änish with a drizzle of sesame oil or more wok oil, if liked, and the remaining cashews. Serve over the noodles. Per serving 4065kJ/971kcals/43g fat/7.2g saturated fat/61g carbs/19g sugars/15g äbre/78g protein/1.7g salt Photography: Tara Fisher, Food stylist: Joss Herd, Prop stylist: Wei Tang, Recipe writer: Phylicia Jackson-Jones Charlotte potato & smoked mackerel with dill lime cream