Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 612

11 AUGUST 202 2 36 WEEKENDING Bristol THE FOOD LOVER’ S GUIDE TO If you’re planning a trip to Bristol this weekend, you’ll hopefully (weather permitting) witness the spectacular sight of hot-air balloons at the start and end of the day. It’s the welcome return of the International Balloon Fiesta, believed to be Europe’s largest ballooning event. But that’s not the only reason to visit Bristol. The city has long enjoyed a soaring reputation as a food lover’s destination. If arriving by train, start your culinary journey at Hart’s Bakery, tucked away in a converted railway arch beneath Grade 1-Listed Temple Meads station. Locally roasted co ee and exemplary cakes and pastries are delivered at this buzzing foodie hub, alongside daily lunch specials such as Sichuan lamb noodles withmustard greens. It’s a 20-minute walk to the historic harbourside for stunning views of Brunel’s iconic Clifton Suspension Bridge and the SS Great Britain steamship, now docked on Spike Island. Many of Bristol’s mustvisit food haunts started out as stalls at the plethora of markets around the city, before expanding with bricks andmortar sites. One of these is Farro Bakery, which gained a name for itself thanks to its croissants and bread but also its delicious canelé French pastries. For lunch on the hoof, head to St Nicholas Market, amelting pot of global street food stalls o ering everything from Kurdish kebabs to fantastic falafels. Be prepared to queue at Eatchu, a tiny venue with outdoor tables where you can enjoy Japanese gyoza dumplings with udon cooked to order. In the city’s old financial district, St Stephen’s Street is becoming a food lover’s micro-hub. A table at Marmo is one of Bristol’s hot tickets, thanks to the cooking of Cosmo Sterck. The £17 two-course lunch is a steal andmight feature freshlymade conchiglie pasta with pork shoulder ragù and sa ron. A few doors away is Cotto, an exciting new Italian wine bar from the teambehind Pasta Loco o ering delicious dishes such as wild rabbit ragù, broad beans and gnocchi. After a glass of locally brewed craft ale at Small Bar in King Street, head to nearby Welsh Back restaurant Adelina Yard, where Jamie Randall and his partner, Great British Menu finalist Olivia Barry, serve innovative dishes such as aged beef fillet with burrata, ponzu and buckwheat topped with grated smoked ox heart. Alternatively, follow the harbour around to Cargo, an ever-expanding waterside area of food businesses in converted shipping containers behind theM Shedmuseum, starting with the tiny 14-cover restaurant Box-E, where Elliott Lidstone produces exquisite seasonal plates singlehandedly in the open-view kitchen. Opt for Spanish-influenced seafood dishes at Gambas, where terrace tables provide spectacular harbourside views, and Japanese izakaya-styled bar Seven Lucky Gods, serving Sichuan fried cauliflower and Korean baby back ribs with white kimchi and apple salad. The booming Bristol food scene isn’t confined to the city centre and harbourside. Walk 25minutes south of the river and you’ll discover plenty of local gems in BS3. Best of From freshly cooked street food to fine dining, there’s something to suit everyone in this historic city. Mark Taylor reports WHERE TO STAY The hippest new place is Artist Residence, a converted Georgian townhouse and boot factory near Cabot Circus shopping centre. This swanky boutique hotel overlooks Portland Square and each of the 23 bedrooms have been individually designed by owners Justin and Charlotte Salisbury. The larger loft suites and roomy apartments are ideal for families. If you want to be even closer to the action, the stylish Brooks Guesthouse is next to St Nicholas Market. It also has four ‘rockets’ – airstream-style caravans for hire as double rooms on the roof with views across the Old City. IN THE KNOW Massive Attack put Bristol on the musical map, but they started out as the DJ collective Wild Bunch, often hanging out at Special K’s at the bottom of St Michael’s Hill. Now the hip 404 Not Found café, enjoy a well-made åat white and soak up the vibe where the inåuential Bristol music scene began. The band often used Christchurch recording studios in Clifton and were regulars in adjacent cider house The Coronation Tap. They weren’t the ärst local heroes to frequent the pub though – Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel drank there during the construction of his landmark Clifton Suspension Bridge. For decades, Bristol has been a popular älm and TV location, most recently in the Stephen Merchant comedy-drama The Outlaws, but the city’s global reputation for screen stars goes back to Hollywood legend Cary Grant. There’s a blue plaque outside the house in Bristol’s Horäeld district where he was born in 1904.