Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 612

11 AUGUST 202 2 19 DIANA HENRY Meal maths Burrata & ’nduja focaccia ” “ Globe artichokes can take time to prepare – but they’re worth the e ort Despite cooking them for years I look, puzzled, at globe artichokes every summer. “What do I do with these?” They aren’t one of theMediterranean vegetables that we’ve taken to our hearts. I’ve been throwing huge pans of courgettes, peppers and aubergines into the oven to roast for the past 40 years. As soon as I tasted them, I became obsessed. That charred flavour, the sweetness, the way everything collapses into a soft mass, and with little e ort from the cook. Globe artichokes aremore subtle in flavour and take a lot more preparation, but I made a dish this summer that mademe understand why they’re adored. I braised artichoke hearts in olive oil with shreds of Serrano ham. I discovered braising in olive oil on a trip to Greece. I don’t knowwhy I’d never thought of it, because the approach is obvious. You don’t use loads of olive oil, just more than usual, and you can cook peas and shallots, bitter greens and potatoes, peppers and onions andmore this way. The olive oil – and you should use an extra virgin oil that you love – imbues the vegetables with its flavour and the vegetables, in turn, flavour the oil. It’s a gentle way of cooking and the end results come from everything you put in the pan – the herbs, the garlic, the salt and pepper and spices. You can also use a bit of dry vermouth or sherry, depending on what you’re cooking, when the vegetables are cooked halfway, to bring another dimension. Back to the artichoke. Accept that this is going to take time and put somemusic on. Fill a large bowl with water and squeeze the juice of about three lemons into it. Keep another few halves for rubbing the artichoke flesh as it’s revealed. Cut your artichoke in half horizontally. Rub the exposed area with lemon. Remove the tough outer leaves one by one, until you get to the soft inner leaves. Remove these until you get to the hairy choke in the middle. Using a teaspoon, scrape the hair away and rub the exposed surface immediately with lemon. Cut o the stem then, using a small sharp knife, pare away the skin around the base, rubbing the artichoke heart all over with lemon as soon as the flesh is exposed. Once you’ve prepared one heart throw it into the acidulated water. Do the same with the others. They’re now ready to cook. Heat some extra virgin olive oil – it should come about 1.5cmup the side of heavy-bottomed pan – and add some chopped shallots and a few cloves of sliced garlic. Cook gently, allowing these to soften, then add some sprigs of thyme and the artichoke hearts (leave the acidic water behind). Toss them in the oil, season, cover with a lid and cook the artichokes until they’re tender, for about 40minutes. Keep an eye on them in case they get dry, then settle down to eat a heavenly dish. ‘Globe artichokes are more subtle in flavour, but I made a dish that made me understand why they’re adored’ DianaHenry is The Sunday Telegraph’s food writer. @dianahenryfood Serves 4 Ready in 10 minutes Preheat the grill or griddle tomedium. Cut the focaccia into 8 slices and grill or griddle on both sides, until lightly toasted. Drain the burrata. Spread the ’nduja on the focaccia, followed by some rocket and torn burrata. Drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil, if liked, then scatter with freshly ground black pepper. Serve with the remaining rocket on the side. 350g roasted tomato, olive & rosemary focaccia 285g pack No.1 Burrata 40g pack chilled Cooks’ Ingredients ’Nduja 25g wild rocket I’m a huge fan of the Waitrose No.1 Foundation Cederberg Chenin Blanc. It’s a super versatile wine for summer eating – gutsy enough to stand up to barbecued burgers and steaks, yet refreshing enough for salads. Fantastic value for money too MIKE NORTH Partner & drinks specialist Persiana Everyday Sabrina Ghayour This book’s title recalls Persiana, Sabrina’s breakthrough release of 2014. Like its predecessor, this is a celebration of theMiddle Eastern foods Iranian-born Sabrina was brought up enjoying, althoughmuch has changed in the past eight years. “The pace at whichMiddle Eastern dishes and ingredients have gained popularity is incredible,” she writes. Another change has been that Sabrina has become a stepmum to two boys. “Long, relaxing lunches and laid-back late dinners are no longer viable with a family to feed,” she writes. This need for expediency informs this collection of meals shemakes at home. This practicality isn’t gimmicky: “If you’re expecting these recipes to take 15minutes or have just five ingredients, I’mnot that girl,” she writes. It’s evident in her zaatar, tomato, olive and feta pastries, which use ready-rolled pu pastry. It’s there, too, in her fig, beetroot, goat’s cheese, chilli and walnut salad, featuring handy vac-packed beets. Sabrina’s overall approach is exemplified by her harissa and lemon roasted chicken thighs. “This is such a simple recipe that I confess I’ve beenmaking it for years and never thought to put it in one of my books,” she says. Meliz’s Kitchen Meliz Berg “I watchedmymumand aunt cook these dishes when I was growing up,” recalls Londonborn bloggerMeliz. “They resonate very deeply withme – they transport me straight back tomy deep-rooted family connection with Cyprus.” As you’d expect froma collection of family recipes subtitled Simple Turkish-Cypriot Comfort Food and Fresh Family Feasts, wholehearted fare is the order of the day – albeit refracted through the prismof the health-promotingMediterranean diet. So there’s a fine bulgur wheat salad called kisir, packed with fresh herbs such as parsley and mint and slicked in a pomegranatemolasses dressing. Then there’s türlü, an olive oil-rich stew of aubergines, courgette, peppers and more, best enjoyed at room temperature. Not that Meliz is shy about wheeling out heavier proteins where necessary. Etli güveç is a rich beef stew, bolstered by peppers and potatoes and shot through with the flavour of Turkish sweet red pepper paste. Then there’s her showstopping six-hour slow-roast lamb shoulder, flavoured withmint, lemon, pul biber pepper flakes andmore pomegranate molasses. “I urge you tomake it,” she writes. “It won’t be the only time you do so.” Books New releases Recipe writer: Zoe Simons, Photography: Clare Winäeld, Food stylist: Jennifer Joyce, Prop stylist: Rosie Jenkins Writers: Paul Dring, Frances Quinn, J ane Hornby