Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 612

FREE 11 August 2022 12 P IZZA MEAL DEAL MARTHA COLLISON Mango yogurt lollies and other Foundation treats p23 ELVIS PRESLEY Stuart Maconie explains The King’s lasting appeal p43 VICK HOPE Versatile presenter on her latest TV venture p10 BEST OF BRISTOL Up, up and away for the city’s bustling food scene p36 Enjoy an easy dinner in the garden or a night in front of the TV with two pizzas, two sides and a dessert for £12 until 16 August, p29

11 AUGUST 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS Famous faces feel the heat in quest for kitchen glory As Celebrity MasterChef returns to our screens, contestants Clarke Peters and Lesley Joseph tell Katherine Hassell how they prepared to face the challenge Actor Clarke Peters is probably best known as unflappable detective Lester Freamon in television series TheWire. He also sang backing vocals on iconic hits such as Joan Armatrading’s Love and A ection, Steve Harley &Cockney Rebel’s MakeMe Smile andHeatwave’s Boogie Nights. Now, he hopes to prove he’s also hot stu in the kitchen, on BBCOne’s CelebrityMasterChef. What possessed him? “Amoment of madness!” Clarke gu aws in a video call from his home in Portugal. “A bit of it was people saying: ‘You’re not such a bad cook.’ The other reason was because I’ve been vegetarian for 40 years. I thought this would be a good platform to extol those virtues. It was Blackwood and former footballer Jimmy Bullard. As well as making a dinner party dish to dazzle in an hour, he had to create ameal using banana flowers in the Under the Cloche challenge. “Man, when they came out with that... I’d never done anything with them, but once I figured out what to do, I was away.” As his rival Lesley says: “Preparation is key to everything.” The actor diligently practised before filming and she admits: “It took over my life. I had a friend who’d been ill, so I took something round nearly every day. That mademe feel very good. I make the best pavlova and tarte tatin and amean fish pie.” Judges critiquing her dishes was less enjoyable. “To be criticised was hard,” she admits. “As an actor, we take criticismall the time, but that’s our job. Cooking’s di erent.” Lesley, 76, is no stranger to culinary catastrophe. Tasked with throwing a dinner party on Celebrity Come DineWithMe, her lamb was seriously undercooked. “It was a disaster,” she admits. “Though I did win the second time I did the show.” Clarke hoped that rehearsing would avoid calamities, too. “I wanted to practisemaking my roux. I spent more time with that than anything else. You’ll enjoy the end result!” he laughs. “I came away from the showwith amuch better knowledge of how to deal with sauces. Just a vegetable gravy over rice can be really nice if the consistency’s right.” And Clarke’s food adventures continue. After helping with the local carob harvest, he’s just made his first carob syrup. “It was fairly successful,” he grins. “Now, I’m thinking it might be interesting to imbue the carob with some cinnamon.” He adds: “I’mnot competitive. That’s probably bad to say going into Celebrity MasterChef. I should’ve said I’m in it to win it, but I compete withmyself to see if I can make something better. Cooking is alchemy.” CelebrityMasterChef, BBCOne and iPlayer stressful, but a lot of fun.” The 70-year-old is an inventive cook. “I’ve had to learn to be, as a vegetarian,” he says. “I experiment.” “My wife enjoys a salad I make. I take cooked basmati rice and all the seeds I can find – sesame, sunflower, pumpkin. I’ll roast some quinoa, dice an avocado andmix it with soy sauce. If I don’t have avocado, I’ll throw in raisins. I may not be a Cordon Bleu chef, but for what I do, I amamaster chef.” Whether judges John Torode and Gregg Wallace will crown him the winner is another matter, as there’s sti competition from 19 other celebrities in the six-week series. They include boxing champ Chris Eubank, Call theMidwife’s Cli Parisi, choirmaster GarethMalone, Strictly’s Katya Jones, presenter Lisa Snowden, McFly singer Danny Jones and actor AdamPearson. Clarke certainly needed to use his imagination in his heat, alongside the Birds of a Feather star Lesley Joseph, presenter Kirsty Gallacher, actor Richard STARS OF SCREEN Celebrity MasterChef judges John Torode and Gregg Wallace ( left); contestants Clarke Peters (below), Lesley Joseph and Chris Eubank (bottom) ‘I’ve been vegetarian for 40 years. I thought this would be a good platform to extol those virtues’ Cover photography: Rich Jones Photography/ Getty Images, Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

11 AUGUST 202 2 3 PEDAL POWER Five cyclists have completed a gruelling challenge to raise £50,000 for Horatio’s Garden, a charity that installs outdoor spaces at NHS spinal injury units across the UK. Starting in Belfast, the team visited all 11 spinal centres, covering 1,100 miles in 11 consecutive days. The challenge ended at Salisbury District Hospital, and they were joined by BBC Gardeners’ World presenter Arit Anderson for the änal 11 miles. NO PLASTIC, FANTASTIC Waitrose Essential Onions are now only available loose, to save 13 tonnes of plastic annually, help customers’ budgets and cut food waste. The supermarket already has more than 100 lines packaging-free. Plastic trays are also being removed for Essential Whole Chickens, saving 31 tonnes, as part of the retailer’s pledge to remove unnecessary plastic. NEW BAGEL ON THE BLOCK Edinburgh’s Bross Bagels has teamed up with actor Alan Cumming to create The Holesome Cumming Bagel, featuring Macsween’s vegan haggis, beef tomato, latke, pickled red onions and chilli mayo. Launched to tie in with Burn, the Scottish star’s new touring dance-theatre show about poet Robert Burns, the bagel collaboration will be a permanent vegan äxture with changing seasonal ällings (decided by Alan) at the deli’s four shops. GETTING FULL SUPPORT England Lionesses brought football home when they beat Germany in the Women’s Euros änal, but the tournament had another winner – the sports bra. Sales of the undergarment rose 140% at John Lewis over the weekend of the änal, implying that women were inspired by winning goalscorer Chloe Kelly (below) and her teammates. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of uplifting stories Chef and refugees bringing a Ukrainian f lavour to London From the chicken Kyiv and beet kvass borsch on themenu to the fixtures, fittings and sta , everything at newLondon restaurant Mriya Neo Bistro hails fromUkraine. The brainchild of Kyiv-born chef and selfstyled ‘gastrodiplomat’ Yurii Kovryzhenko, the Earl’s Court bistro is a celebration of his native cuisine and culture – and is sta ed solely with Ukrainian refugees. “My dream is tomake the world fall in love with Ukrainian cuisine and show how modern and creative the country is,” says Yurii. “ThusMriya, whichmeans ‘dream’ in English. It is also a reference to the world’s largest plane, Mriya, destroyed by Russian troops in the first weeks of the war. Since then, they say inUkraine: ‘They can destroy our planes and houses, but not our dreams.’” When the conflict began in February, Yurii and his partner Olga Tsybytovska were on a 10-day work trip to London. “I wanted to go home and defendmy country,” says Yurii. “However, everyone aroundme [said]: ‘What are you going to do? Canapés in the trenches?’ Therefore, I decided to concentrate on what I know how to do best.” What followed was a series of sell-out fundraising dinners, which generated hundreds of thousands of pounds in aid and sawYurii cook with star British chefs, including Jamie Oliver, Jason Atherton and TomSellers. Providing a livelihood for refugees, Mriya, which served its first diners this month, was the next step. Alongside Ukrainian classics such as borsch and chicken Kyiv – the former recently recognised by Unesco as a heritage WEEKEND SNAPSHOT Jumbo artwork It’s World Elephant Day tomorrow (12 August), and at Noah’s Ark Zoo Farm in Bristol, an unusually colourful herd is gracing the countryside. The 26 life-sized baby elephant statues, each hand-painted by local and international artists, are courtesy of Elephant Parade, a fundraising art exhibition that’s appeared everywhere from Rio de Janeiro to Hong Kong over the last 15 years. When it closes at the end of the month, many of the vibrant pachyderms will be auctioned off to raise money for the conservation and welfare of Asian elephants which, with just 40,000 left in the wild, are now an endangered species. dish – themenu will feature Yurii’s own signatures, including stu ed courgetteflower holubtsi. Cocktails are curated by Dima Deinega of Dima’s Vodka and the wine list features Ukrainian vintages. The bistro’s interior was designed and fitted by Lviv renovation company Replus Bureau, and all ceramics, artwork and furniture was supplied by Ukrainianmakers. “I amdeeply grateful to London and Great Britain for such incredible support,” adds Yurii. “I want to tell London about modern Ukraine in the language of taste – it’s the only universal language in the world.” Alice Ryan CLASSIC CUISINE Yurii Kovryzhenko in the kitchen (top); the traditional Ukrainian dish of borsch (above) Photography: BBC/Shine TV, Elena Bazu, Dmitriy Novikov, Noah’s Ark Zoo Farm, Lynne Cameron - The FA/The FA via Getty Images

11 AUGUST 202 2 5 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart ANNA SHEPARD Illustration: Alex Green/Folioart MY WEEK Chris Packham WEEK 30: WATERING THE GARDEN With a summer drought in full swing, our tiny patch of lawn is resembling straw. In the past, I’ve resorted to the sprinkler when the grass is parched. The kids love to dance through it on a baking afternoon, but after finding out that a sprinkler uses 1,000 litres of water an hour – enough to fill more than 12 bathtubs – I’ve changed tactics, instead hurling bowls of grubby washing up water onto the patchy tufts. (It’s a good reason to use a bowl, instead of washing up directly in the sink.) According to Anton Rosenfeld at Garden Organic, there’s no need to water a lawn. “Even if your grass has yellowed in hot, dry weather, it will recover,” he says. Instead, prioritise watering seedlings and young plants, but at the fringes of the day. Outside of earlymornings and cool evenings, there’s no point using a watering can, as the water is lost to evaporation. In a heatwave, he says, allow some water to soak into the soil first to prevent it running o dry soil. For mymost precious plants, I try layering mulch around them to lock inmoisture. It can bemade fromall sorts of bits and pieces. In the absence of straw and grass cuttings, I rip up a few egg boxes andmix that with a bit of compost to cover the soil aroundmy favourite camellias. To collect and store rainwater, a water butt is essential. In our last house, we hacked into our drainpipe to fit one. Despite several YouTube videos, it was the limit of our DIY ability. Until we dare repeat it, I’ve devised a rudimentary alternative. Themoment I hear the telltale taps on the windows of a summer downpour, I rush to the garden grabbing any bowls and buckets on the way. Eccentric, perhaps, but my camellias will thankme. My year of living sustainably Somemay like it hot, but I don’t like being subjected to the sort of oven-ready temperatures we’ve experienced recently. While the exotic rescued tigers at our Isle of WightWildheart Animal Sanctuary happily licked their ice lollies and romped around their pool, some UKwildlife flagged, faded and sadly died. I survived by retreating into an insulated house stocked with edibles and cool clean water andmorphed into a ‘naturist naturalist’, doing radio interviews sweating in the nude – but I wasn’t dying of starvation or thirst in the inferno outside. Let’s face it, I wasn’t a barnacle, baked onto its shoreside grave, or a baby swift lying on the streets after a failed bid to escape being cooked in its nest. I felt wretched contemplating the cruel di erence betweenmy discomfort and their desperate fight for survival. I enjoyed a brief reprieve with the news that a grass snake had been seen threading its way through the scorched fabric of my garden. That was a first for me – a grass snake in the garden. Wow! Meanwhile, another first occurred for Norfolk with the hatching of European bee-eaters in a quarry there, enthusiastically guarded bymy friend and fellow bird enthusiast FabianHarrison. These Versace-esque birds seldombreed this far north, so there’s an undeniable thrill in seeing their signature cochineal and teal contrails as they flit skywards to catch their prey on the wing. But knowing of their presence is bittersweet – another warning of our rapidly warming world. While I was away working on a new autism series for the BBC, I heard that we’d had another garden visitor – a skinny adolescent badger, wandering about in the blazingmidday sun rummaging for remnants under the bird feeders. It was probably severely dehydrated and starving, due to a lack of earthworms and other normally easymeals which had succumbed to the heat. Badgers can tolerateMediterranean climes – they populate Spain and other hot places – but their life support systems haven’t had time to adapt to life in a hot zone here. I don’t knowwhat happened to that poor badger. It haunts me. Some scientists believe this is the hottest our planet has been since civilisation began, perhaps for 125,000 years. I felt humbled by the folk protesting among the ancient boughs of the recently slain Queen Camel oak tree in Somerset. It spent 600 or so years growing but found itself in the path of a 21st-century slip road development to connect the newA303 dual carriageway to a private school. That tree lived through the Battle of Agincourt, Columbus’s arrival in the Americas and the Gunpowder Plot. Since reaching adulthood in its centenary year, it’s gifted us two hippos worth in weight of carbon capture. I contemplated this as I wateredmy knee-high two-year-old oak saplings, knowing that soon the post-heatwave hosepipe ban will be in place and it seems impossible they will live to 600 years old. This strikes me as apocalyptic-scale sadness. We cannot continue to treat our natural assets as disposable. It’s not as simple as plantingmore trees. My toddler saplings won’t mature into serious climate controllers or biodiversity providers withinmy lifetime – nature takes time to do its job. Our natural world is feeling the heat as temperatures rise

11 AUGUST 202 2 6 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views Everyone has something they’ve thrown out bymistake. The loss niggles away in our brains, doesn’t it? These things often seem to be far more valuable to us than they are. I recall a pair of earrings, not expensive but certainly irreplaceable, which I must have left in the shower at the gym. Then there’s my copy of an Ian Rankin limited edition short story, which he auctioned for charity. It got muddled up in a pile of newspapers in a hotel roomand was then thrown out. And I almost can’t bear tomention the love letter I left in the seat pocket of a plane in 1987. Spare a thought, then, for James Howells, an IT engineer fromNewport, SouthWales. During a clearout at his o ce 10 years ago, he accidentally threw away his computer hard drive. On it were 8,000 Bitcoins, mined in the very early days of the cryptocurrency revolution and worth around £150million today. Hemust have been in bits whenhe realisedwhat he’d done. Sometimes, I findmyself dwelling onmy earrings or the Rankin page of A4 that onlymyself and 99 other people got to buy. But imaginewaking up every night, missing such a life-changing sumofmoney? Since 2013, James has been fighting to excavate a local landfill site in the hope of finding his buried treasure – whichmay have disintegrated somuch that it’s not worth a penny. Newport Council has denied himentry because it’s unsafe – he’d have to dig past layers of compacted rubbish and it would pose an ecological risk. James argues that it wouldn’t just be him who benefits from the recovered drive – he’d give everyone in the area £50 worth of Bitcoins, set up a community cryptocurrency hub, clear the landfill site and replace it with a power generation facility. Even though he is now backed by a consortium, when the council response has the phrase ‘statutory duty’ in it, it’s not looking good. And let’s be honest – the ‘consortium’ is people investing in a high risk, no guarantee scheme to recover money that may or may not be still available in a high risk, no guarantee scheme. Still, I can see both sides of the coin. And if that hasn’t been registered as the title of James’ biopic, there’s no creative flair left in the world. He can have that one onme, along with some equally free advice – recycle your small electrical goods. They shouldn’t be going to landfill in the first place. ‘When the council response has the phrase “statutory duty” in it, it’s not looking good’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover Poetry is having amoment. Once confined to a dusty shelf at the back of the bookshop, collections of verse now adorn the window displays. And it’s no coincidence that this renaissance comes at a time of global instability. “People turn to poetry at big emotional moments,” says Allie Esiri, an award-winning anthologist and host of live poetry events. “You reach for it at a wedding, at a funeral, and in troubled times, because it helps us express things that most of us find di cult to put into words. People like to bemoved to tears, and they also like to bemoved to laughter. Poetry can do both of those things brilliantly and quickly.” Following record sales before the pandemic (peaking in 2018, with 1.3 million collections worth £12.3million sold), the category is still growing. It’s up 12% in volume since 2019, and up 11% in value since this time last year, according to The Bookseller magazine’s audience measurement data fromNielsen BookScan. Sales of physical books are partly driven by poetry’s popularity on social media. There are nearly 70million posts with the hashtag #poetry on Instagram, as people search for bitesized verses to comfort, a rmand amuse. “The internet means that people are seeing poetry and there’s a surge of sharing poetry online,” says Allie, pointing out that before the digital age, not everyone would have had poetry books at home. “It’s also a really easy thing to post on Instagram. You can’t post a novel, but you can post a poem.” The internet has made stars of poets including Brian Bilston, Rupi Kaur and Nikita Gill. Nikita regularly posts her work – and that of others – online, and also recognises the link between instability and a thirst for verse. “These past five or six years have been themost politically divisive time in recent history,” she says. “And that’s when poets do their best work, because our job is in hope and in love, and giving people something to hold on to at a time when there is nothing to hold on to.” Being online gives poetry immediacy and relevance, she adds. “For a long time, the kind of work we were reading was fromyears ago, but when social media came in, we suddenly found lots of poets talking about our current political situation, feminism, gay rights – issues that are a ecting us right now.” With this inmind, Nikita’s latest collection, These Are theWords (Macmillan), is aimed for the first time at a young adult audience. It has verses to help with everything fromfirst loves (and first break ups) to standing up for what you believe in. “A lot of young people feel unhappy and disenfranchised and for good reasons,” she says. “They lost two years due to the pandemic and things were supposed to get better now, but it feels like they haven’t. So they look to older people to give them some sense of hope and groundedness. Everything I say to my nieces now, I’ve put into this book.” What is it about poetry that speaks to people? “We live in a world where women, especially teenage girls, get told they’re too sensitive, so they can’t be in places like government, for instance, because they’re too emotional or too hysterical,” says Nikita. “But poetry is a place where emotions are celebrated, daily comfort These Are the Words, the new poetry collection by Nikita Gill ( left), is out on 18 August; Stars read poems on Allie Esiri’s app, The Love Book (above) Finding the words Turbulent times have led to a surge of interest in poetry, and it’s never been easier to seek out verses to comfort or amuse, writes Emma Higginbotham Photography: Peace Ofure, Getty Images, Neil Bedford

11 AUGUST 202 2 7 7 QUESTIONS WITH… SERGE PIZZORNO The Kasabian frontman on unplanned dog ownership and wowing Elton John 1 Where do you live? In Leicester with my wife Amy, kids Ennio and Lucio, and now our two dogs, Vince and Kiddo. I was tricked into getting them, but after years of thinking I didn’t want dogs, it turns out they’re phenomenal. 2 Strangest gig? We once played on a decommissioned Boeing 737. It was so unsafe – when people were bouncing, it was like we were 30,000 feet in the air in turbulence. 3 Do people still ask about that amazing goal you scored at Soccer Aid? Yes. Even Elton John said: “That goal!” And I was like: “Yeah, mad, wasn’t it?” If you watch it back, the two people who celebrate with me ärst are Will Ferrell and Mike Myers. You know your life’s weird when things like that happen. 4 Why is your new album called The Alchemist’s Euphoria? It’s about the alchemist in his studio using different types of music to create something new. The euphoria is the moment of the inception of a great idea. 5 What three things would you take to a desert island? I don’t know if I’d last on a desert island. Can I escape? How long am I there for? What are the rules? Can I take my wife and kids? That’s three things – then we’ll ägure everything else out. 6 Are you a good cook? I can do simple things well – like a mean omelette and good pasta – but if it gets technical, I’m out. What would I cook a guest? Sadly, they’d probably get a fry-up, whatever the time of day. 7 What would little Serge think of grown-up Serge? He’d go: “Wow, all those things you thought weren’t possible – they actually happened.” where you can feel anything you want and it’s not wrong. “For teenage girls, that is so deeply powerful and validating. Poetry has been sitting in the classroom for so long that people don’t realise that it can sound like anything and it can go anywhere. It’s such a liberating art form,” she adds. “It can change your life if you just find the right kind of poem, and social media is a very good place to do that.” Allie harnesses the power of the digital age with her poetry app, The Love Book, which has readings by Helena Bonham Carter, TomHiddleston, EmmaWatson and Damian Lewis to help demystify the words. She also puts her books in a one-a-day format, to suit those who feel overwhelmed by page after page of verse. Her latest, Shakespeare for Every Day of the Year, is out in paperback on 18 August (Macmillan). “It’s a ‘way in’ that’s not o -putting,” she explains. “People can read a daily poem, or turn to the one on their birthday, and then they discover more. I’m really, really keen to get poetry tomore people.” poetry in motion Helena Bonham Carter at the launch of A Poet for Every Day of the Year ( left); Allie Esiri at the launch of Shakespeare for Every Day of the Year (below left); Rupi Kaur on stage in Los Angeles earlier this year with her World Tour Secret Show (below) ‘A poem is a good thing to turn to. A poem is mindful. It nourishes the mind’ What would she say to someone who thinks poetry is not for them? “At school, you’re often set poetry as a comprehension task, but it doesn’t matter if you don’t fully understand it – the words should just wash over you,” she says. “You shouldn’t worry about what it means, and you’re not going to be tested on it! Just enjoy it. If you’re feeling worried or are having trouble sleeping, a poem is a good thing to turn to. You sometimes can’t quite take on a novel, or a big fat non-fiction book, but turning to a poem is mindful – the act of concentrating on one thing,” she adds. “Poetry is not going to cure anything, and it’s not going to solve a war or stop a tank, but it nourishes themind.” The Alchemist’s Euphoria by Kasabian is out on 12 August. Interview: Emma Higginbotham

11 AUGUST 202 2 9 NEWS&VI EWS Awave of new apprenticeship schemes aim to kickstart restaurant industry careers to tackle a sta shortage caused by Brexit andCovid. Rick Stein andD&DLondon, the chain which includes 100Wardour Street in London’s Soho, opened applications for apprenticeships earlier this year, and JKS Restaurants, home toMichelinstarred Sabor and Gymkhana in London, has followed suit. Themove comes as figures released last month by the O ce for National Statistics show there are an estimated 176,000 accommodation and food service vacancies across the sector. JKS cofounder and people director Sunaina Sethi says their motivation is to highlight hospitality as a positive career choice and combat sta shortages. With 11 JKS apprenticeship places available, candidates will be o ered an £18,000 salary and the chance to work both front and back of house across the group’s 13 restaurants. The scheme also includes quarterly opportunities to dine with JKS, plus trips to farms, breweries and vineyards. “There’s beenunderrepresentation for hospitality as a viable career WEEKEND SNAPSHOT Prize peony Its rarity, perfume, free-åowering characteristic and beauty have seen this blowsy peony winning Threatened Plant of the Year, an annual competition held by conservation charity Plant Heritage. Paeonia Gleam of Light hasn’t been on sale for more than äve years. The only recorded location is in winner Roz Cooper’s County Durham garden. “I’m thrilled that my peony has won,” says Roz. “Gleam of Light was available to buy for more than 60 years before it fell out of nursery catalogues. It’d be wonderful to discover more examples of it in the future.” Apprentices o er a taste of things to come for hospitality sector choice for school and university leavers to date. The skills you acquire and the growth potential available shouldmake it just as appealing as any other graduate schemes,” says Sunaina. “We’ve lost considerable numbers of the workforce due to Brexit and Covid, but hope that schemes like this will showcase howwe can nurture and upskill homegrown talent.” Lancashire’sMichelin-starred Northcote also plans to take on five kitchen apprentices to work alongside executive chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen for two years. Alice Ryan career path Apprenticeships at restaurants such as Gymkhana (above) will help build careers in hospitality Prince salutes decade of farming innovation HRHThe Prince of Wales has praised the ‘remarkable’ work of the farmer-led research network Innovative Farmers at an event to celebrate its 10th anniversary. The Prince joined 150 people on a Cornish farmtomark the occasion. Innovative Farmers has pioneered research and sustainable farmingmethods, withmore than 120 field labs (on-farm trials) that have been awarded more than £450,000 in grants. The network is funded by The Prince of Wales’s Charitable Fund through sales ofWaitrose Duchy Organic products. During the event, at Trefranck Farmnear Launceston, Cornwall, The Princemet trialists from several field labs, including one investigating livingmulches, where crops are sown into a permanent understory of clover to reduce the need for ploughing, artificial fertilisers and weedkiller. “I’mparticularly interested in livingmulches, which is the next interesting and very critical area I think I shall be particularly fascinated to see,” he said. “I’ve always felt that nature herself has so celebration HRH The Prince of Wales cuts a cake to mark the 10th anniversary at a Cornish farm where trialists demonstrated their pioneering work many of the answers, and that if we read the book of nature carefully enough, we discover that she’s created this astonishing –miraculous, really – waste-free circularity.” Farmers and researchers shared insights and hosted demonstrations to highlight pioneering work, such as using satellite data tomanage grassland and combining trees with farmanimals in agroforestry. Events tomark the 10th anniversary are taking place across the country, and horticulturalist and former Soil Association president Monty Don will also highlight the network when presenting the BBC’s Radio 4 Appeal, a weekly programme highlighting the work of a charity, on Sunday 28 August on behalf of the Soil Association. Anna-Marie Julyan Photography: Emily Fleur/Innovative Farmers, Caroline Stone

10 11 AUGUST 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Vick Hope can’t remember a time when she wasn’t busy. “At school, I used to get involved in every extra-curricular activity going,” she recalls. “The dance shows, the drama performances, cookery club, music, all the sports… I just love learning new things, going to new places, meeting new people. I guess that’s being busy, isn’t it?” It’s a pace of life that’s gathered speed as she’s got older. In the past two years alone – a period in which, in theory, the world ground to a halt – the DJ and presenter has hosted or guested onmore than 30 TV shows, on top of her ‘day job’ broadcasting on BBCRadio 1 for two-and-a-half hours, four afternoons a week. She’s also published her second children’s novel (co-written with her old Capital Radio pal Roman Kemp), been a judge on theWomen’s Literary Prize – for which she had to read a longlist of 74 books – and kept up a slate of charity commitments, including volunteering at a refugee project near her home in Dalston, East London. “Everything I do, I enjoy, and I believe in,” she says, when Weekend catches up with her in a raremoment of downtime. “Although I have been feeling quite tired recently, and I’ve started to realise the importance of rest and balance and boundaries. It’s something I’m trying to get better at.” Sunday lie-ins haven’t been an option lately, though, as she’s spent the summer hosting Vick Hope’s Breakfast Show on ITV. “It’s a happy, positive space,” says Vick of the programme’s feelgoodmix of inspirational stories and ideas, taking in everything from cocktail recipes to summer read recommendations. The idea is that, when you wake up on a Sunday, you can start the day feeling good, and try to eke that bit more out of the weekend.” It’s a show that’s verymuch built around the 32-year-old’s personality, from the set (“it’s all little bits of me”) to a regular slot called GiveMe Hope, in which celebrity guests o er up something that has made them feel more positive this week. She didn’t just get the gig on the strength of her name, of course. But it is a perfect fit for the show, suggests Weekend. “Yeah,” says Vick. “Althoughmy full name is Victoria NwayawuNwosu-Hope, because I’mhalf-Nigerian, andmy mumand dad wanted to keep a piece of my Nigerian heritage inmy name. And, I’mnot gonna lie, it was a shame to drop Nwosu, when I first startedmy career. It was advice I was given, and had it been a few years later, I don’t think I would have dropped it. The reasoning was that people would find it di cult to pronounce, or spell. But actually, what I should have said is: ‘Well that’s not good enough – a name from another country shouldn’t really be a problem.’” Vick’s drive and determination is clearly something she’s inherited fromher mother, Ady. “I’m constantly in awe of her journey,” she says. “She grewup inNigeria during the civil war [of 1967-70] and came to England just afterwards. She started a life here, inNewcastle, with not a word of English – she and her four siblings, in this little one-bed flat on their own. So yeah, I guess this idea of making something of yourself does come from that.” Ady – whomarried Nigel, an English software engineer – was also, in her own words, “fierce about education”. Luckily, so was her daughter. “I loved school,” says Vick, who has three brothers. “I was a really precocious kid and I loved learning, I wanted to do everything. It sounds so geeky and nerdy, but I’mproud of that. There was a time when I wouldn’t have told you that, because I didn’t think it was what a ‘youth broadcaster’ should say. But now… if there are any kids who think being really academic isn’t cool, then I just want to tell you that it’s totally cool. It’s great to feed your mind.” At 18, she applied to readmodern languages at Cambridge. “I think themain reason I chose Cambridge is that people Queen Vick The Cambridge graduate Vick Hope is equally at home judging literary prizes and working with refugees as she is on BBC Radio 1 and Strictly. Paul Kirkley meets her

11 11 AUGUST 202 2 Photography: Hoda Davaine/Contour by Getty Images

13 11 AUGUST 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS toldme I wouldn’t get in,” she laughs. “I asked a teacher where was best for languages, and he said Cambridge. So I was like: ‘Well, I’ll go there, then’. And he was like: ‘Well, let’s manage your expectations…’ Also, I wanted to do French and Spanish, but they didn’t do Spanish at my school, so I took myself o to night classes, and got my Spanish A Level as quickly as I could.”Well of course she did. Arriving at Emmanuel College, it wasn’t the French or Spanish that threw her, but the university’s secret language. “They all talked about ‘coming up’ to Cambridge,” she recalls. “But I’d gone down to Cambridge. I was used to being the onlymixed-race person, and usually the only black person, at school. But what I couldn’t believe when I arrived at Cambridge was how few northerners there were. “So it was such a shock, because they all seemed to know the same people, havemoved in the same circles. When I got there, I felt like the stupidest person in the class. I never understood how all these others – especially all these boys fromEton and places like that – had the confidence to put their hand up all the time. Even if they didn’t know the answer.”Most of themare probably running the country now. The pressure to conformwas something Vick had felt from an early age – as a child, she’d once asked her mum if she could wash her brown skin o in the bath. “And at Cambridge, I was definitely trying, as any 18-year-old does, to fit in – to dress, and domy hair andmake-up, a certain way, and try to emulate the people aroundme.” It wasn’t until her university year abroad – where, at 19, she ended up becoming the youngest ever journalist employed by The Argentina Independent newspaper – that she really began to feel comfortable in her own skin. “As well as the newspaper, I was working in a cocktail bar, and I remember meeting this Brazilian girl called Sura, who played in a band and had really big, bouncy hair. And I started to realise: ‘Oh, that’s how I can domy hair better.’ I started to become a little freer in the way I heldmyself, andmore confident about the way I looked. “When I came to London, I really embraced the idea that your heritage was part of your identity, rather than something you hid a little bit. Where I live, I can get food fromanywhere in the world, I can get all the Nigerian ingredients to eat the food that I grew up eating at home inNewcastle. The stu that makes you unique is something to be celebrated.” She’dmoved to London for a job withMTV, having been talent-spotted by them in Buenos Aires. It was the launchpad for a TV and radio career in which she’s juggled entertainment juggernauts such as The X Factor, I’ma Celebrity and Strictly Come Dancing (she lasted five weeks) with award-winning documentaries, literary judging panels and human rights activism. (In her three years at Capital, she was almost certainly the only commercial breakfast radio presenter with a Cambridge degree inmodern languages – little wonder The Sunday Times dubbed her ‘the voice of a generation’.) But, for all her drive, she’s never really had a plan, she says. “Doors have opened that I didn’t expect to.” Her role as an Amnesty International Ambassador is something else that can be traced back to her school days, when she started writing letters on behalf of prisoners of conscience. “I think when you’re young, your moral compass is much clearer,” she reflects. “You think: ‘These things are right and these things are wrong,’ and it doesn’t make sense that the wrong stu is allowed to happen.” Over the past few years, she’s also been involved in a project helping children fromasylum seeking families. “The kids I’ve been working with… I love them,” she says. “I feel I’ve grown with them. I’ve always cared about refugees, because I know mymum’s story. Although she always says: ‘I wasn’t a refugee, I was an immigrant, because I came here after the war.’ But I knowwhat she went through, I know that it’s not always fair – it’s not your fault if you’re born in a warzone. Everyone deserves safety, and the chance for a better life.” InMay, Vick got engaged to superstar DJ and record producer CalvinHarris after ‘a whirlwind five-month romance’ (© all the tabloids). It’s not something she wants to talk publicly about right now – but, as someone who has spoken in the past of being ‘a worrier’, and using therapy to work through her anxieties, it’s clear she’s on top of the world. “I’m the happiest I’ve ever been,” she beams. “It sounds so gushing, but I’ve worked out what makes me happy. It just takes time – it’s about getting older, and surrounding yourself with the right people and the right things. I’ve learned to let things go: to stop, take a breath and reprioritise, rebalance, set boundaries. And to just try to have fun. Life is too short. A lot has happened over the past few years – we all lost people. It makes you realise life can be fleeting. So try to have the best time you can. And then try to spread that happiness around.” Watch all episodes of Vick Hope’s Breakfast Show on ITVHub. Going Home with Vick and Jordan, BBCRadio 1 fromMonday to Thursday ‘A lot has happened over the past few years, so try to have the best time you can – then spread that happiness around’ ALL SMILES Vick Hope on the set of her ITV breakfast show ( left); out with fiancé Calvin Harris ( far left) Since September, Vick has cohosted Radio 1’s ‘drivetime’ show with Jordan North called Going Home. “It feels like a younger show than it has in the past,” says Vick. “It’s for people leaving school, leaving uni, wanting to end their day with a bit of a laugh. We don’t really plan the show – it’s absolute chaos. Jordan is so lovely. Everything you might have seen of him on TV? That’s who he is.” She also presents Radio 1’s Life Hacks and Ofäcial Chart: First Look (both on Sunday). Despite “feeling a little left out of the Cambridge demographic”, Vick found her own gang of like-minded souls. “There weren’t that many of us, but we gravitated towards each other. What’s that saying? Your vibe attracts your tribe. I’m still really close to my uni friends.” SHE’S THE ONE Photography: Karwai Tang/WireImage

11 AUGUST 202 2 15 FOOD&DRINK Pocket friendly Five deliciously a ordable midweek meals to enjoy p16 Diana Henry Why the globe artichoke is an unsung hero of summer p19 Foundation menu Including Martha Collison’s avocado chocolate tart p23 Photography: Dan Jones, Food stylist: Kathy Kordalis, Prop stylist: Wei Tang

16 11 AUGUST 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Savings to savour This month, we’re celebrating the anniversary of the Waitrose Foundation, which was launched in 2005. As a Partner, I’ve been very proud to see how it has grown over the years, and as a cook, I’ve been excited about the sheer quality of Foundation produce, from the fruit and veg, to the wine that our drinks specialist Mike North recommends (p19). A must-buy for me are Foundation mangoes – they’re some of the sweetest and juiciest I’ve tasted. That quality holds true across everything in the range, because if it didn’t taste good, it wouldn’t be on our shelves. This week, Martha Collison’s recipes (p23) showcase other favourites from the Foundation range. ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Creamy penne with broccoli & bacon Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 250g Essential Penne ½ x 750g pack frozen Essential Broccoli Florets 200g Essential British Smoked Bacon Lardons 150ml Essential Double Cream 1 tbsp Essential SunDried Tomato Pesto 1 Cook the pasta according to pack instructions, adding the broccoli to the pan for the last 5-6 minutes. 2 Heat a large, dry frying pan, then add the lardons. Cook gently for 10 minutes, until golden, crisp and cooked throughout. Remove from the pan and set aside, leaving a little of the fat behind. Add the cream and pesto to the pan and simmer for 2-3 minutes, until thickened. 3 Drain the pasta and broccoli, reserving a little cooking water. Mix the pasta, broccoli and most of the lardons with the sauce, adding a dash of the cooking water, and season. Serve, topped with the remaining lardons. Per serving 2246kJ/538kcals/31g fat/16g saturated fat/45g carbs/3.2g sugars/4.5g äbre/17g protein/1.2g salt Moroccan-spiced chicken with couscous & salad Serves 6 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 35 minutes 1.6kg pack Essential British Chicken Drumsticks 1 tbsp sumac 1 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Ras El Hanout 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp salt 1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper 1 bulb fennel, änely sliced, fronds reserved 400g can Essential Chopped Tomatoes 300g Essential Couscous 1 unwaxed lemon, zest and juice 200g pack Essential Crunchy Salad 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Put the chicken in a large bowl with the sumac, ras el hanout, garlic, 1 tbsp olive oil and seasoning. Rub well to coat the chicken. 2 Scatter the fennel into a large roasting tin, then put the chicken and garlic on top. Pour the tomatoes over, then add 50ml water to the tray and roast for 30-35 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through, the juices run clear and no pink meat remains. 3 Meanwhile, put the couscous into a large bowl. Add enough freshly boiled water to cover the grains by 2cm, season well, then cover and set aside. Whisk the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil with the lemon zest and juice. When the chicken is ready, åuff up the couscous with a fork and fold in ½ the dressing. Dress the salad with the remainder. Serve, together with the chicken and reserved fennel fronds sprinkled over. Per serving 2018kJ/481kcals/18g fat/3.6g saturated fat/41g carbs/ 4.3g sugars/4.9g äbre/37g protein/ 1.2g salt/1 of your 5 a day High in protein Waste not For more åavour and less waste, änely shred the harder core from the fennel, and any long stems too, and include them in the tray. They will soften down well in the sauce. Cook’s tip Frozen broccoli saves time, but if you prefer to use fresh, simply break a small head of broccoli into åorets. Alternatively, use green beans, soften courgettes in the bacon fat before adding the cream, or let washed baby spinach wilt into the pasta at the end of cooking.

17 11 AUGUST 202 2 If you’re looking to save money on your food bills without sacrificing any of the flavour, the Weekend food team has created these simple and delicious midweek meals – all making the most of our great value, great quality Essential range Cook’s tip If you’re clearing out the veg drawer, swap in chunks of red onion, peppers or halved tomatoes in place of the aubergine or courgette. For a cheat’s alternative to the minted yogurt, pick up a pot of tzatziki. Waste not Use the leftover teriyaki sauce in a veg-packed stir fry with brown rice noodles. Peppers, salad onions, mushrooms and broccoli all work well, but use what you have. Finish with some toasted sesame seeds. Cook’s tip Using dried rice makes this recipe more economical than ready-cooked pouches. Long grain rice is a good choice instead of basmati, as it holds its shape well. Wholegrain rice will up the äbre content. Crushed potato & halloumi traybake with summer veg Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 30 minutes 500g Essential Charlotte Potatoes, halved lengthways 250g Essential Cypriot Halloumi, cut into bitesized pieces 1 Essential Aubergine, cut into bitesized pieces 1 Essential Courgette, thickly sliced 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Herby Zaatar 1 tbsp olive oil 4 tbsp Essential Greek Style Yogurt 1 clove garlic, crushed x 25g pack mint, änely chopped, plus a few torn leaves to serve 3 Essential Salad Onions, shredded 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7 and line a large baking tray with parchment. Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the potatoes and cook for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the halloumi, aubergine and courgette in a bowl. Add the cumin, zaatar and olive oil, season and mix well to coat. 2 Drain the potatoes and set aside brieåy to steam dry. On a board, press each potato down with a fork, until slightly crushed and the skin splits. 3 Put the potatoes onto the baking tray with the halloumi and vegetables, and shake it so the potatoes take on a little of the oil. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are crisp. Meanwhile, combine the yogurt, garlic and mint in a small bowl and season. Serve the traybake scattered with mint leaves, the salad onions and the garlicky yogurt for dolloping. V Per serving 3274kJ/786kcals/47g fat/27g saturated fat/47g carbs/12g sugars/11g äbre/38g protein/3.8g salt Teriyaki-roast aubergine, edamame & tofu flatbreads Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 20-30 minutes 1 Essential Aubergine, cut into 2.5cm chunks 2 tsp Essential Olive Oil 50g Yo! Sweet & Sticky Teriyaki 150g frozen Essential Edamame Beans 100g ärm silken tofu 1 Essential Lime, juice 10g Clearspring Sushi Ginger, änely chopped, plus 1 tsp pickling liquid 2 Essential Large Wholemeal Tortilla Wraps 1 tbsp Good4U Salad Topper Super Seeds ¼ x 25g pack coriander, leaves only 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Put the aubergine on a parchment-lined baking tray and drizzle with ½ the oil and the teriyaki sauce. Toss to evenly coat each piece, then roast for 20-30 minutes, until browned and tender, turning after 15 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, bring a small pan of water to the boil and cook the edamame according to pack instructions. Drain and plunge into cold water. When cool, tip them into the bowl of a food processor, with the remaining 1 tsp oil, tofu, lime juice and 1 tsp of the ginger pickling liquid. Blitz until smooth, then taste, season and whizz again. 3 Warm the wraps according to pack instructions, then spread the edamame mixture on top, followed by the aubergine chunks, seeds, coriander and sushi ginger. V Per serving 2048kJ/490kcals/21g fat/4.5g saturated fat/42g carbs/13g sugars/16g äbre/25g protein/1.7g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Spiced king prawn fried rice Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 150g Essential Easy Cook Long Grain Rice 1 Essential Pointed Spring Cabbage 2 Essential Free Range White Eggs 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tsp medium curry powder 1 tsp ground cumin 2 x 150g packs Essential Cooked King Prawns 150g Essential Beansprouts 400g can Essential Cut Green Beans in Water, drained 4 salad onions, shredded, green and white parts separated 2 tsp light soy sauce, plus more to serve 1 Cook the rice according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, thinly shred the cabbage. Beat the eggs and set aside. When cooked, drain the rice and leave to steam dry for 5 minutes. 2 Heat 1 tbsp oil in a wok over a medium heat. Add the curry powder and cumin and sizzle for 30 seconds. Add the cabbage and stir fry over a high heat for 4 minutes, then tip onto a plate. Heat 2 tsp more oil, then add the prawns, beansprouts, beans and whites of the onions. Stir fry for 2 minutes, until the prawns are pink and opaque. 3 Stir in the rice and cabbage, then push everything to 1 side of the pan. Heat 1 tsp oil on the other side, then sizzle the eggs to set, before stirring into the rice. Add the soy sauce, stir fry for 1 minute, then serve with the rest of the salad onions and more soy. Per serving 1174kJ/280kcals/11g fat/ 1.5g saturated fat/22g carbs/1.8g sugars/5.3g äbre/21g protein/1.7g salt/ low in saturated fat 2 of your 5 a day Recipe writer: Lara Luck, Photography: Dan Jones, Food stylist: Kathy Kordalis, Prop stylist: Wei Tang

11 AUGUST 202 2 18 FOOD&DRINK First Bites Photography: James King wouldn’t get the same quality or yield. “Even so, as a crop, it has its challenges. Sweetcorn developed from the starchy field maize that farmers grow for cattle feed, which cows love but humans definitely wouldn’t. Sweetcorn was bred to have less starch andmore sweetness, but seeds need a certain amount of starch to get going, so the better the taste, themore di cult it is to grow. We’ve done a lot of work with di erent varieties over the years to get it as sweet and juicy as it is now. “It’s also really important to us to farm sustainably – the quality of the soil and the biodiversity balancemean everything in order to produce healthy and tasty crops. To farm successfully, you need to be a custodian of nature, and we farm the land so we can do it forever. “Our packing facility is powered by our own waste, and we’ll soon be certified net zero across the farm, too. Our founder, Peter Barfoot, was awarded a CBE for services to sustainable farming. “We’re in full swing with the sweetcorn harvest right now, so it’s a busy time and hard work. But there’s nothingmore satisfying than seeing a good crop go out, and knowing that people are soon going to be enjoying it – hopefully on a sunny day in the garden.” It’s sweetcorn time, and Neil Cairns and the team at Barfoots are busy harvesting juicy, golden cobs for the Essential Waitrose range Meet the producer ‘To farm successfully, you need to be a custodian of nature’ “Sweetcorn has become so popular in the UK that it might surprise people to know it’s not an easy crop to grow here,” says Neil Cairns (above). “It likes plenty of sunshine, and it hates cold soils, so it’s not exactly designed for the British climate. “But we’re lucky in that our farms, in Hampshire, the Isle of Wight andWest Sussex, are in a helpful microclimate. We get the highest light levels in the UK, and because the Isle of Wight is to the south west of us, it acts like a windbreak, protecting our mainland crops fromprevailing Atlantic fronts. If we were to try and grow sweetcorn even 20miles north of where we are, we Kitchen classics Ice Creams, Sorbets &Gelati: The Definitive Guide Caroline & RobinWeir RobinWeir fits the template for a particular kind of Englishman – that of the committed amateur. A pharmaceutical company owner by trade, he’s loved ice cream since his first epiphanic taste of amilk and cornflour ice as a London schoolboy in 1949. Since then, his passion has spiralled to the extent that he’s amassed perhaps the world’s largest collection of ice creamparaphernalia – some 14,000 items, ranging frommachines and scoops to books and postcards. So, when it came to composing the last word on the subject, he was well qualified. The result, co-authored with Caroline Liddell, was published in 1993 as Ices: The Definitive Guide and was lauded by Nigel Slater, Delia Smith andHeston Blumenthal among others. Their passion leaps fromevery page, whether explaining ice cream science or debunkingmyths about its history. Marco Polo first brought ice cream to Europe from China? Not a bit of it, they say. It’s highly unlikely he even went there in the first place. The pair o er a similarly withering assessment of today’s industrial ice cream. “Tomaximise profit, manufacturers pump their ice cream full of air,” they write. The book’s recipes, some 400 of them, include marmalade ice cream, quince sorbet, and parmesan cheese ice cream. “We beg you to put aside your prejudices and try this, especially with ripe pears.” Having written the last word on the subject, Robin went back to the day job, though he did compose a similarly exhaustive guide tomustard in 2010. That same year, the pair – nowmarried – released an updated, retitled version of their masterwork, which reflected newhistorical findings and included 93more recipes, with a new chapter on lollies. In this, they were spurred on by “the abundance of [lolly] recipes on the internet that do not work or are frankly inedible”. In an age where it’s increasingly hard to separate sound fromnoise, a definitive guide has never beenmore welcome. Published by Grub Street, grubstreet.co.uk Library must-haves for food lovers

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