Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 605

FREE 23 June 2022 YOUR TOP-TO-TOE WEEKENDSPECIAL HOME VINTAGE Future looks sunny for English wine industry p2 & 34 OFFERS Great summer savings on selected products p46 BEAUTY SPECIAL Go for the glow with our eight-page supplement GLASTO’S BACK! Meet one of its stars, plus Stuart Maconie’s preview p10 & 40 A show of Pride Orlando Murrin pays tribute to the movement with his New Orleans-inspired jambalaya, p17

23 J UNE 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS Photography: Getty Images, Thomas Alexander Photography, Sussie Bell / Selina Lake,Talking Tables, Cheshire Fire & Rescue, Chris Blacklay Cover Photography: Photography: Sam Folan, Food stylist: Jennifer Joyce, Prop stylist: Wei Tang, Andrew Hayes-Watkins, Andrew Allcock Vineyards tell a story of success “Sales of sparkling wines from supermarkets are very positive, at around 50% growth, and the direct to consumer channel also looks to have continued its sharp rise in 2021, with vineyards reporting extremely high visitor numbers and online sales,” saysWineGB’s Julia TrustramEve. “Consumers really do seem to show an appetite for buying local.” Waitrose now stocks more than 100 English wines, including award-winners such as Nyetimber, Bolney, Gusbourne, HushHeath and Simpsons Estate, as well as Glyndwr, fromWales’ oldest family run vineyard. The retailer’s own-brand fizz, made with grapes grown on its Leckford Estate in Hampshire, has also been flying o the shelves. “Leckford Brut continues to grow in popularity with our customers,” says Partner and wine buyer AlexandraMawson. “Last year, we sold a record 31,000 bottles, and the 2021 vintage will be particularly special, because it is the 10th anniversary of our first release in 2011.” Pierpaolo Petrassi chooses his top English wines, p21; great British vineyards to visit, p34 grape expectations Sales of English still wines and fizz are surging as the domestic industry expands It’s EnglishWine Week until 26 June and with business blossoming for homegrown labels, there’s lots to celebrate, writes Rebecca Smithers The vines are in leaf and the bees are buzzing happily around the flower-filled alleys. It’s EnglishWineWeek, and the ideal time to explore vineyards in some of themost beautiful corners of the countryside. Many of the UK’s 200-odd wineries have opened their doors to visitors since the relaxation of Covid restrictions, and are investing in extensive facilities – including on-site accommodation – to o er tours, picnics and tastings. Fromdelicate fizz to rich reds and crisp whites, a diverse range of homegrown wines are enjoying booming sales – and giving their international competitors a run for their money. Sparkling wine in particular, barely on the radar at the previous two Jubilees, proved a big hit during this month’s celebrations tomark the 70th anniversary of HerMajesty The Queen’s Coronation as consumers stocked up on the best of British. Consumption has tripled since the Diamond Jubilee 10 years ago and, in 2021 alone, sales of English fizz rose by 45% atWaitrose, with the retailer selling 455,000 bottles – 120,000more than 2020. Miles Beale, chief executive of theWine and Spirit Trade Association, says the four-day holiday this month gave the sector a further fillip that will carry on “as the UKwine sector continues to invest and grow, and a greater range of products come on to themarket”. Taste is everything in an industry where awards are highly prized. In the recent Decanter WorldWine Awards, UK varieties made in 21 counties – fromBerkshire and Kent to Su olk andWorcestershire – were awarded a total of 151 medals, the sector’s biggest haul in the competition’s 19-year history. These included a gold for Hampshire’s Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV. Following English sparkling wine’s success, the Waitrose Drinks Report 2022 says British winemakers are now growing the still category, with its top sellers including Bolney Estate DarkHarvest and the Pinot Noir Rosé fromSimpsons Estate in Kent. Both English red and rosé enjoyed a 70% increase in sales at the supermarket in 2021. The industry is also one of the UK’s fastest-growing agricultural sectors, reports trade bodyWineGB. Over the past five years, some 8.7million new grapevines have been planted in England andWales, with a 70% increase in land used for planting. English wines are now produced by 180 di erent wineries and exported to 30 countries. Average annual production in the last four years has been around 10million bottles. Another boost came last week, with the news that Sussex wine had been awarded Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status –much like Champagne in France – which guarantees that it’s froma specific area. Sussex wine joins products such asMelton Mowbray pork pies, Scotch whisky and Welsh lamb in earning the accolade. WineGB is to publish figures suggesting a big year for sales in 2021, even compared with the 30% growth in 2020, and despite Covid hitting the hospitality sector hard. ‘Vineyards report high visitor numbers and consumers really do seem to show an appetite for buying local’

23 J UNE 202 2 3 JAM PACKED The latest TikTok drinks craze elevates a breakfast favourite to cocktail hour – a spoonful of raspberry and lychee jam with ice, vodka and sparkling water by @katchaomeow has had nearly a million views. Other ideas include blackberry jam, ice, Hendrick’s gin, lavender bitters and cucumber tonic. COOL TO BE KIND Research for charity Save the Children found that a third of young people have become more charitable in response to the pandemic and war in Ukraine. So its new campaign – The Fun Raisers – encourages them to raise money ‘and smiles’ for peers around the world. It was launched by children’s author Julia Donaldson, who handwrote a book about her childhood fundraising experiences, Bunches of Bluebells, to auction. FINDING FOOD HEROES Nominations for the BBC Food & Farming Awards 2022 are open until Monday (27 June). Categories include best food producer, best street food or takeaway and community food champion. This could be a cook, chef or someone in food preparation who has had a positive impact on the lives of others. Awards aim to ‘honour those who have done most to promote the cause of good food’. STAG NIGHT Look out for endangered stag beetles, and submit sightings to People’s Trust for Endangered Species (PTES) for its annual Great Stag Hunt. Recognisable by their antler-like mandibles, the bugs often åy around on warm summer evenings. “We know stag beetles live in woodlands in mainland Europe, but we don’t know whether they’re living in UK woodlands,” says PTES conservation ofäcer Laura Bower. See stagbeetles.ptes.org. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of uplifting stories WEEKEND SNAPSHOT Pride of the fleet The Cheshire Fire and Rescue Service will be out and about at events this summer with their rainbow äre engine. The colourful vehicle has been part of the åeet for several years, but took on new signiäcance when the service was named the UK’s second most inclusive LGBTQIA+ workplace in Stonewall’s Top 100 Employers list 2022. Mark Shone, senior LGBT champion, says being ‘loud and proud allies’ attracts people to consider a career with them. “Over the past äve years, the number of LGBT people applying to become äreäghters in our service has doubled,” he says. Unpack the bunting and dig out the best tablecloths and crockery – it’s time to host a Great British Garden Party in support of the National Garden Scheme (NGS). Founded in 1927, the NGS has unlocked the delights and secrets of some 3,500 private gardens for the public to explore and enjoy, with all donations going to charity. Its sister garden party scheme is now in its third year. In 2021, hosts devised a multitude of creative interpretations of what a summer outdoor party can be – froma classic afternoon tea to an urban barbecue – together raising £40,000 for health charities, includingMarie Curie, Macmillan Cancer Support and Parkinson’s UK. Championing it again this year is ‘queen of cakes’ DameMary Berry, who’s as passionate about gardening as she is about cooking. She’s opened up her garden for more than 20 years and has beenNGS president since 2016. This year, Mary is planning a tea party for friends in the garden of her Oxfordshire home. “The roses will be at their best and I hope the weather keeps fine,” she says. Guests will be treated to a slice of her colourful red velvet cake and a selection of dainty homemade smoked salmon, egg mayonnaise and watercress, and cream cheese and chive sandwiches. They will also take part inMary’s ‘guess the herbs’ challenge – asked to name her homegrown selection with eyes covered in exchange for a donation. “There’s something special about visiting a garden,” saysMary. “Sharing your passion with like-minded people and enjoying delicious cake brings such enormous pleasure.” O cial Great British Garden Party dates are until Sunday 24 July, but you can choose any day to suit you. Rebecca Smithers Go to ngs.org.uk/garden-party-sign-up for more details and to register your own event Let’s get the party started tea and cake Mary Berry (top) is opening up her garden and you can host one too FUNNY FODDER Fancy dinner with comic Sindhu Vee? Then download Dish, the new podcast from Waitrose, hosted by Nick Grimshaw and Angela Hartnett. This week, Nick makes pomegranate and chilli margaritas and Angela cooks cod with crab, tomatoes and dill, all served with laugh-out-loud conversation. waitrose.com/dish

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23 J UNE 202 2 5 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart WEEK 23: RENTING KIDS’ CLOTHES I can’t be the only parent who spends a considerable amount of time weeding out clothes frommy kids’ cupboards that no longer fit or have never been worn. The problem is not just that children grow, but that the changing seasons means you end up missing the windowwhen an outfit does fit. For my two boys, the older one passes items to the younger. My daughter has no younger siblings, whichmakes me reluctant to buy her anything at all. We wait for handme-downs from friends, or rifle through the rails at charity shops, but shemisses out on special outfits. So she is beyond excited when we sign up to Little Loop, a children’s clothes rental company, which has partnered with John Lewis to expand its shared wardrobe. For £18 amonth we have 100 credits, which translates into six or seven items, which can be swapped at any time. The choice is huge, including brands such as Polarn OPyret and Frugi, as well as more than 50 items fromJohn Lewis. When our parcel arrives, my daughter falls for a blue jumpsuit and has barely taken it o since. This leads to concerns about stains – I want her to enjoy the clothes but I don’t want to feel anxious when she eats spaghetti bolognese. Little Loop founder CharlotteMorley confirms my subscription includes insurance against staining and wear and tear. “All returned items are professionally cleaned, and – if needed –mended, then rented out at a price that reflects their condition,” she says. We imagine children like owning their clothes, but with new ones replacing them, my daughter can’t wait to package hers up, even the jumpsuit, which can be swapped for the next size up without using any credits. My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD At 61, I’mapparently just 57 questions away fromuncovering my ‘personality style’ bymeans of a test derived from the American Psychiatric Association. My partner Charlotte was given the questionnaire and I regretted overcompensating for a derogatory remark about it by chipping away at the first 50 questions. My grilling started late, and by 4am the birds were chirping and I still didn’t have a clue who I was. Mad about birds andmademad when they are abused, for sure. What I do know is that I’ve always been determined, which helps with the challenges of campaigning. For every bad biodiversity news story we’re force fed on Twitter there is a serving of something uplifting to whet the appetite – even for those who believe all is already lost. Hence, I always look forward to presenting Springwatch and doing a bit of thighrubbing while celebrating some of the good news – the beauty, the brilliance and resilience of our native wildlife. There were several highlights for me. Ospreys reclaiming another of their stolenUK territories – back breeding in Poole Harbour for the first time in 200 years. We were able to share themoment that one of their chicks broke out of its egg, putting a tick in the ‘justice for wildlife’ box. We also finally cracked nightjar nest voyeurism, with remote cameras poised to capture a new generation of these avian oddballs hatching. Then we got under the carapace of burying beetles to big up their extraordinary parenting skills – these ‘super nannies’ mollycoddle their larval brood, puking up puréedmeat while ferociously defending their next meal. I also squeezed in some filming at The Hospital of St Cross outsideWinchester. My late father and I visited this 12th-century ‘almshouse’ many years ago. Founded byWilliam the Conqueror’s grandson to o er refuge to the community, it’s now a five-star hotel for a colony of swifts thanks to the e orts of Hampshire Swift Group. Eventually I migrated home. After checking in withmy two curly haired joy-grenades, miniature poodles Sid and Nancy, I downloaded footage from the garden cameras. Bingo – a pair of mandarin ducks on the pond. It was infrared, but I could picture sunburnt orange feathers on their back, the splash of Cadbury’s purple on their breasts and a dash of forest green and ruby red on their heads. Another treat was when a scorpion fly joined us for a ‘green shakshuka’ Sunday lunch... look for themamong nettles and brambles and you’ll see the enlarged genitals of themales, which look like scorpion stingers. I almost forgot that I was temporarily promoted to chief giant rabbit yoga instructor while Charlotte was away. Sevenyear-old Otto is the big-eared apple of her eye – she bakes him ‘yoga’ biscuits tomotivate the evening stretching sessions prescribed by his physiotherapist. MyWhatsApp video, entitled ‘yogamayhem’, was met with a curt reply reminding me to take it seriously, remove the poodles and ditch the distractions. Who’s ever heard of the ‘downward lagomorph’? My week ended on a high when I caught up with a social media campaign I launched in April – #FoxOfTheDay – inviting people to share their love for foxes by posting images on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram. One photograph of a vixen with her suckling quadruplet cubs accruedmore than 10,000 likes. Not a bad show of a ection for an animal villainised and persecuted by a nastyminority. All is not lost. My personality type likes poodles, foxes and yoga for rabbits Illustration: Olivia Waller/Folioart MY WEEK Chris Packham

23 J UNE 202 2 6 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover j l I don’t know if you have hadmuch time of late to consider a burning question – is it really still cool for cats? Social media suits themwith their symmetrical beauty and penchant for falling o things in a comedic way. And who doesn’t like a shared post of a playful kitten at the end of a long day? But have we gone too far in thinking they are here just for us and not for themselves? Two headlines caught my eye this week – the first being ‘Keep Killer Cats Inside At Night To ProtectWildlife’, which is the familiar tale of howmuch the average feline likes to feast from the bu et of nature after it’s had its bowlful of cat food froma pouch. The second headline was more intriguing: ‘Playful Cats Keep Insects Away’ is the story that scientists have found a reason why cats like rolling around in catnip and silver vine leaves. Masao Miyazaki, a scientist at Iwate University in Japan, found that when cats rub their heads in these leaves and tear or chew them, they cover themselves in nepetalactol, a compound that repels mosquitoes. It’s the tearing and chewing bit that’s key because bruised leaves release up to 40 times as much of the stu . Miyazaki noted that he had no bites on his own armafter rubbing it with damaged silver vine leaves. This is a huge development. And let’s think about it – if all the domestic cats were locked up indoors, we wouldn’t discover such helpful things. So I’d say let them roam free and tell us things, you clever, beautiful creatures! This week also brought us the headline ‘LockUp Your Koi Carp, The Otters Are About’, telling howWiltshire Police issued an alert to the owners of expensive fish in local garden ponds because one pond owner has lost 30 carp and goldfish to the sleek otters of Corsham. I’m sympathetic for her loss – up to a point. I’d quite like to applaud the otters though because all they have done is find amassive freemeal, eat it then avoid the police roadblock on the way home. The natural world is full of its own rules –we can’t pick and choose the ones we take from it, canwe? Back to the cats – I’ve only just noticed ‘cat soup’ in the pet food aisle. What on Earth next? Cat canapés? Feline amuse-bouche? I leave you with this: perhaps if you are only giving your cat ‘soup’, then it’s your fault that they’re heading out for a fuller meal later, not theirs. ‘The natural world is full of its own rules – we can’t pick and choose the ones we take from it, can we?’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover Cynthia Shanmugalingam traded an economics degree at Cambridge for a food career – and has since opened novice eyes to Sri Lankan cuisine with pop-ups at acclaimed restaurants and now through her debut cookbook. Tessa Allingham reports Culinary songbook hits the right notes Cynthia Shanmugalingam says I should open windows or switch on the extractor fan, and it’s a tip worth heeding. Coriander, cumin, fennel and black peppercorns release their familiar warmth in the dry heat of a pan. In go fresh curry leaves and handfuls of dried Kashmiri chillies, seeds rattling inside wrinkled crimson skins. My kitchen starts to smell toasty. It’s pungent, rather than killer hot, but the aroma catches inmy nose and throat every so often and I open another window. “I’mso thrilled youmade the spicemix!!!” comes the three-screamer approval when I sendCynthia a picture ofmy filled jamjar. I plan tomake her coconut dhal withkale recipe and crab fried rice touse yesterday’s leftover rice. Its freshness appeals, so too does the descriptionof howthe grainswill absorb the tamarind and coconutmilk curry liquid, then go crispy. “Try the red curries too – chickpea or lamb or chicken,”Cynthia suggests. Imake a note. The spicemix is key tomost of the savoury recipes in the Sri Lankan cook’s exuberant debut, Rambutan. The cookbook opens novice eyes to the island’s bold, fiery, largely vegetarian cuisine that, says Cynthia, ‘hasn’t yet had its time in the sun’, too long overshadowed by other South Asian countries, particularly India. “Sri Lankan food is not Indian food,” she proudly declares. It is instead a complex, layered cuisine determined in part by the island’s geographical diversity. The spiciest curries are in the north, amap reveals, sri lanka’s best Crab fried rice and fried chicken sandwich; chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam Photography: Alex Lau, Stuart Simpson, Penguin Random House

23 J UNE 202 2 7 Just Got Real by Jane Fallon (Michael Joseph) is out now. Interview: Emma Higginbotham 7 QUESTIONS WITH… JANE FALLON The TV producer-turnedbestselling author on becoming vegan and hanging upside down 1 Where do you live? Hampstead in North London, with my boyfriend Ricky [Gervais] and my gorgeous cat Pickle. 2 Coolest thing in your house? One of those machines where you hang upside down to help your bad back. They’re called inversion tables and they’re amazing. Everyone who comes round is like a child when they see it – they all want to have a go. 3 You produced 90s classic This Life: who was your favourite character? Anna, because she’s such a beautiful mess. The way Daniela Nardini played her was completely brilliant, but so not like her as a person – she’s a sweet, lovely woman. 4 Describe your new book Just Got Real in one sentence A woman uses a fake photo on a dating app, but discovers that the only thing real about the man she connects with is his photo. 5Can you cook? I really enjoy cooking. During lockdown, I decided to make the home vegan, because of all of the animal rights stuff we do, and actually it was really good fun. My tip for would-be vegans? Don’t feel it has to be all or nothing immediately. Give yourself time and, if you slip up, give yourself a break. 6 What do people ask you about Ricky? They always say: “Does he make you laugh?” And I imagine me just sitting here, stony-faced, while he’s saying funny things. 7 Fanciest outät in your wardrobe? I auctioned all my expensive things for Ukraine, but I’ve still got the dress I wore to my ärst Golden Globes, which I love so much. It’s pale lavender and very ätted. To be honest, I couldn’t cram my carcass into it these days, even if I could änd something to wear it to. Rambutan by Cynthia Shanmugalingam (Bloomsbury Publishing) is out now so too is the best shellfish and prized karthakolombanmangoes. The flavours of Muslim street food such as kothu roti (shredded flatbreads with spiced vegetables, meat or eggs) is typical of the east coast. To the west, Christian, Burgher andMalay influences are strong, while the Sinhalese south is home to kiri bath, a coconut rice dish often eaten for breakfast with a spicy sambol. Themountainous centre is where you’ll find tea plantations, sweet mangosteen, jackfruit, and eccentriclooking rambutan. It’s a cuisine that’s also been shaped by some 450 years of colonial rule by the Portuguese, Dutch and British, the latter until independence in 1948. Cynthia describes the impact as creating ‘Sri Lanka’s culinary songbook… a unique food tradition that is completely our own’. Watalappan tart is amarriage of Portuguese custard tart and Sri Lankan cardamom, jaggery and coconut milk, and Cynthia’s take on lamprais (she describes it as a ‘feast of rice, curries, crunchy things and pickles’) has its roots in Dutch lamprijst, meaning packet of rice. Other countries’ cuisines have touched Sri Lanka too. Stu ed rotis andmutton rolls – short eats or snacks – areMalay in origin, and falooda Persian. Cynthia’s version of the iced dessert involves the combination of no-churn crème fraîche ice cream, raspberry granita, pieces of rambutan and soaked basil seeds. Adaptations come easily. “I’m from the north of Sri Lanka, which is themost chilli-hardy, but even I can’t handle too much, so I do sometimes temper the spice,” says Cynthia. “My food isn’t intended to blow your head o . And there are somany weird and wonderful vegetables in Sri Lanka, but I’ve tried to use ones that are easily available in the UK.” She does, however, insist that a Ja na crab curry be true to her beloved grandmother’s recipe (it was her ammamma who encouraged Cynthia to cook) if it’s to deliver ‘possibly the best recipe in the book, and in the whole island’. Cynthia wrotemost of Rambutan in Sri Lanka, travelling when the pandemic allowed. She immersed herself in her culinary and familial heritage, cooked with locals and captured their recipes. “The recipe part was maddening, it’s all a bit of this, a bit of that. But it was such a joy to be with [mymother], to connect with people through food, spend time in their kitchens.” Rambutan is more than a cookbook, however. Cynthia doesn’t shy away from the ugly side of Sri Lanka’s colonial history ‘It was a joy to be with [my mother], to connect with people through food, spend time in their kitchens’ bold and beautiful Cynthia’s new cookbook features recipes including rambutan and rose frozen falooda dessert or the civil war, fought between northern Tamil rebels and themajority Sinhalese government for 26 years until 2009. Many of her relatives – her family is Tamil – fled during the war. Her home inNelliady, Ja na District, was bombed. Her parents moved to the UK in the 60s and Cynthia and her siblings were born in Coventry, but the war was a fact of life growing up, she says. “My cousins came to live with us, my grandmother too. My dad was always looking at Ceefax for news,” she recalls. It makes a powerful backdrop to the recipes. Rambutan is amoving personal story of family, the expectations of a culture, a search for identity, and the distress of displacement and separation caused by war. Cynthia’s parents spoke English at home, so urgent was their desire to fit in, but on childhood trips to Sri Lanka it was the opposite. “Dadmade surewe got buses and ate street food, trying to get us to bemore like regular Sri Lankan kids than spoiled Westernised imports, whilewe sweated, scratchedmosquito bites, and longed for cornflakes,” shewrites. She felt out of place years later at her grandmother’s funeral – Cynthia’s account of this leaves a catch in the throat that’s as unavoidable as the one you getmaking her spicemix. “I think Dad still hopes I’ll get a real job. I’vemademy peace with that,” she says. “It must seemmadness to him to trade a Cambridge degree [in economics] for a career in food.” She couldn’t help it that she ‘loved cookingmore than policy reports’, and when visits to chef Asma Khan’s early supper clubs showed Cynthia that food could be a career, she didn’t look back. Hosting pop-ups in London, including at Asma’s Darjeeling Express and Jeremy Lee’s Quo Vadis restaurants, helped her believe that her dreamof opening a Sri Lankan restaurant might come true. It will. The former Konditor &Cook site at London’s BoroughMarket is being transformed into a restaurant – Rambutan – which, come October, will sing with the flavours of Cynthia’s recipes. Sri Lanka’s dhals, crab fried rice, colourful veg dishes, red curries and fried chicken sandwiches with pol sambol will be on themenu. The vibrant, important pages of Rambutan will leap into life.


23 J UNE 202 2 9 NEWS&VI EWS The recent warmweather sawmany of us dusting o the barbecue for the first of many outings this summer. Yet the liquid oozing fromyour sizzling burger is nowmore likely to be beetroot juice, as the seismic shift to plant-based alternatives continues apace. Shoppers wanting to enjoy the occasional veganmeal have an ever-widening choice of meat-free patties and sausages to chuck on the grill. A realistic mince-like texture has been available for some time, thanks to ingredients such as seitan (made from gluten), jackfruit, mushroom, soy and pea protein, and further innovation is promised in a boomingmarket where even traditional meat industry giants are investingmillions. At themost technologically advanced end of the spectrumare laboratory-grown and 3D-printed alternatives – not yet widely available – whichmimic a whole cut of lean meat, such as a steak or lamb chop. “There has been an explosion in new plant-based products, from ‘meaty’ burgers inmajor fast food chains to vegan ‘chicken’ breasts that can be grilled or steamed,” says Toni Vernelli from the charity Veganuary. “Innovation is at the heart of the plant-based If you’re leaving space on your barbecue for meat-free alternatives, you’ll be spoilt for choice, as plant-based innovation is soaring, writes Rebecca Smithers alternatives industry, with brands striving for ever more realistic and nutritionally superior versions of traditional meat products.” The UK has become the world’s second largest meat-substitutemarket after the US. Retail sales hit £600million last year, and are forecast to reach £855mby 2026, according tomarket researchersMintel. Brand consultants Kantar say the rise of flexitarian diets means that, compared with 2017, an extra 1.1 million people are eating meat substitutes in an average week, with 9%of the population now doing so every week. In a further sign of vegan food going mainstream, the humblemeat-free sausage has just been added to the O ce for National Statistics’ basket of goods, used as ametric to calculate the cost of living. AtWaitrose, the aim is to help shoppers ‘make simple and tasty swaps’ for meat through own-label and specialist products, says Scott King, Partner and brandmanager for the GoVeggie and PlantLiving ranges, adding that both are ‘perfect for barbecues’. “They highlight the delicious flavours of vegetables and pulses, allowing our customers to celebratemeat-free for what it is – vegetables and spices – rather than what it isn’t,” says Scott The PlantLivingmushroomand leek sausages, Scott adds, tap into the trend for usingmushrooms for an umami hit, “giving thema deeply savoury flavour and satisfying A taste of the future MEAT-FREE FEAST Seitan steak with pepper and mascarpone sauce (main); Max La Manna (below); Bi ’s Plant Shack range (right) texture. They’re just as versatile as meat and delicious in a hot dog with fried onions, or for bangers andmash. It’s an easy and enjoyable way to add variety to your diet without compromising on your favourite foods.” A new kid on the block is vegan comfort food brand Bi ’s – renowned for crispy fried jackfruit burgers, and the UK’s first ‘wings’ with a sugarcane ‘bone’ – whichmade its supermarket debut atWaitrose in April. “The range is focused on big flavours, comforting dishes and going beyond the obvious,” says cofounder Christa Bloom-Burrows. “It’s perfect for barbecues as well as big nights in.” Food companies may well have nailed texture, but there is occasionally room for improvement when it comes to taste, according to award-winning vegan chef Max LaManna.“Otherwise people will just go back to themeat options they’re used to,” he says. Highly rated on taste is the Beyond Burger fromUS giant BeyondMeat. Ihab Leheta, its vice-president of international business development, says further innovation is planned for substitutes. He adds: “Anything you see in themeat cabinet is a potential target, including steak and bacon.” Watch this space… ‘Brands are striving for ever more realistic and nutritionally superior versions of traditional meat products’ See p23 for four irresistible meat-free summer recipes fromElly Curshen Photography: StockFood , Lizzie Mayson,Biffs

23 J UNE 202 2 10 NEWS&VI EWS Photography: Olivia Richardson

23 J UNE 202 2 11 Rebecca Taylor is feeling a little frazzled. “I’m so sorry,” says the artist better known as Self Esteem, whomissed our appointment earlier this morning, and has now appeared on Zoom, unwrapping a towel fromaround her wet head. “How are you? I look like ****!” she laughs, as she catches herself on screen. “I’mbehind on everything, and I’ve got a car coming for me at three, so I need to domy hair in front of you.” Apologies, Weekend assures her, aren’t necessary, and if Rebecca is slightly at sixes and sevens, that’s hardly surprising. As we speak, it’s a year, almost to the day, since the release of I Do This All the Time – the breakthrough single that announced Self Esteemas one of themost exciting and talked about pop stars in Britain, and ushered in 12months of frantic activity during which her feet have barely touched the ground. “I’ve not had a day o since,” she says in her earthy Rotherhamaccent. “It’s obviously amazing, and what I’ve always wanted. But the adjustment is still happening and… I think it’s hard to be an adult anyway, and I’mnot a very orderly person. I keep having to buy socks and pants ’cos I haven’t had time to wash, and things like that. I keep thinking: ‘How does Victoria Beckhamdo it?’ But I guess they have people to do it for them, don’t they? And therein lies the discrepancy, withmusic, because you can, quote unquote, make it, and still be pretty skint.” While shemight lack actual funds, Rebecca has no shortage of critical acclaim in the bank – her second albumunder the Self Esteembanner, Prioritise Pleasure, was named the best record of 2021 by both The Sunday Times and The Guardian, which also declared I Do This All the Time the year’s best single. She was also named Artist of the Year by BBCMusic Introducing, won Attitude magazine’sMusic Award, and was nominated for two Brits and two NME Awards. She is, then, verymuch having ‘amoment’. But a week before our chat, Rebecca had also tweeted a tongue-in-cheek message asking where her medal was for “honouring everything I said yes to when I was less burnt out”. Is there a certain irony, wonders Weekend, in an album called Prioritise Pleasure – amusical manifesto of selfempowerment on which Rebecca renounces her former life as a timid people-pleaser – resulting in her working harder, and having to pleasemore people, than ever? “Yeah, but work is pleasure tome,” she insists. “It’s my reason for existing, and I love being this busy after 15 years in an industry going: ‘Hello, I’m clever, look at me, give me opportunities…’” Most of those 15 years were spent as one half of cult She eld folk duo SlowClub, alongside fellow vocalist and multi-instrumentalist CharlesWatson. They enjoyedminor success, and supported the likes of Mumford & Sons and Florence + TheMachine, but Rebecca felt confined, musically and personally, and the relentless touring wore her down. In 2017, she re-emerged as Self Esteem– a radical reinvention of her entire brand that took in not just music but theatre, visual art (she directs her own videos) and social media. As a label, Self Esteemwould also turn out to have a certain aspirational quality. “Though I didn’t mean that at the time,” she stresses. “I just thought it was a cool band name. I didn’t have any idea that I didn’t have any self-esteem, or that self-esteemmight changemy life and become a weirdly Ahead of her appearance at Glastonbury this weekend, Rebecca Taylor tells Paul Kirkley why Self Esteem isn’t just her musical alter ego – it’s a whole new way of life The pleasure principle

23 J UNE 202 2 12 NEWS&VI EWS self-fulfilling thing. That’s why,” she adds, “I’mgoing to call my next album Loads and Loads of Money…” It’s not just becoming a brilliant pop star that’s helped her self-esteem– she’s also gone down the therapy route. “That’s something I’mvery committed to,” she says. “I’mnot fixed or changed, but there’s a natural amount of self-worth that I’ve now got. Being in a band for 10 years with a load of guys, you get very good at shapeshifting – for survival, more than anything. Not frommy bandmates, but from the industry as a whole. I was in the back of a van at 19, and only now do I see how fraught with danger that is, and howmuch of my behaviour was centred around staying safe, or making sure I wasn’t being any trouble. I think a lot of women have felt that. My dream is that women get to wake up and not have to think about everything, in the way that men don’t.” On Prioritise Pleasure, themes of self-care and selfactualisation run alongside stories of self-sabotage and millennial anxiety. I Do This All the Time, a deadpan spoken wordmemo-to-self punctuated by huge gospel choruses, reads like a sardonic update of Baz Luhrmann’s Everybody’s Free toWear Sunscreen, in which Rebecca contrasts her own advice – ‘don’t send those long paragraph texts, stop it, don’t’ – with that of her former management: ‘All you need to do, darling, is fit in that little dress of yours… If you weren’t doing this, you’d be working inMcDonald’s, so cheer up.’ On the clamorous title track, meanwhile, she pledges to stop trying to please people who ‘liked the idea of me, in theory’. “Being a woman has sort of been a disadvantage for memy whole life,” she says. “And the album is just trying to illuminate that.” The title, she adds, is ‘not as sexy as it sounds’ – for her, prioritising pleasure could equallymean just staying in and not going somewhere she doesn’t want to go. And yet, it is also a sexual record, and deliberately so. Having been a victimof sexual assault, Rebecca is determined not to let it define her experience of sex. On I’mFine, she sings of living as proudly and as sexually as I like to be, adding: You took that from me and you used it. But I’ll never lose it. “One in three women have been sexually assaulted – that’s unifying, and eternal,” she says. “When that happens, you have a choice. For me, it felt like I needed to live smaller in order to be safe. And then I was like: ‘No, that’s not fair.’ That’s an injustice that’s boilingmy blood every day. And if I can do anything about that withmy art, then it’s worth it. What are womenmeant to do – just never leave the village?” But it’s not just that. After years of strikingmeek indie poses with SlowClub, Rebecca – who recentlymoved to London after a spell inMargate – is enjoying indulging her confident ‘West EndWendy’, especially during her camp, glamorous, sharply choreographed live shows. She is also, in person and on stage, very funny – a scarce commodity among modern pop stars. “I’ma performer,” she says. “And one of the biggest turnarounds for me has been realising I need that, and that there’s no shame in accommodatingmy need to create.” The daughter of a secretarymumand steelworker dad who grew up in a Christian household in Rotherham, the young Rebecca was a promising cricketer, until music turned her head (“though it’s not that hard to be a promising under-16 ladies cricketer in South Yorkshire,” she notes drily). Part of her, she admits, still thinks that performing is ‘for southerners and people with rich parents’, while shyness has previously kept her inner diva in check. “I get very intimidated by social stu ,” she admits. “But writing, performing – singing about my feelings and dancing and doing all this ****, that’s where I feel safe.” Rebecca’s recent Attitude award was in recognition of her work as a queer musician (she came out as bisexual in 2013) – though she’s not convinced of her qualifications as an LGBTQIA+ rolemodel. “I don’t thinkmy sexuality is very interesting,” she shrugs. “But I refuse to live secretly, or with any shame, and I guess that’s inspiring, if you need it to be. Not that any young people listen tome,” she laughs. There was a time, Rebecca has admitted, when she felt compelled to lie about her age. Now, she thinks it’s brilliant and hilarious for a 35-year-old woman to be nominated for best breakthrough act at The Brits. “The way women are supposed to have a shelf life, or whatever – I refuse that as a concept. Maybe I’d bemakingmoremoney if I said I was 29? But I wouldn’t sleep at night, because it’s pathetic.” This weekend, Rebecca will cap an extraordinary year when she performs on the John Peel Stage at Glastonbury. Is she excited? “Oh God yeah,” she says. “I’ve played the (BBC) Introducing stages but never had a proper slot, so it feels like amilestone. The basis of my career has been looking at other people and going: ‘Why not me?’ and being wound up about how impossible it is to get heard. It used to breakmy heart, that I wasn’t there [at Glastonbury] or part of it. It’s not a case of: ‘Oh I’m so validated now you’ve o eredme a slot.’ It just feels like, with everything inmy life right now, I’mfinally in situations that matchmy work ethic andmy ambition.” Prioritise Pleasure is out now. Self Esteemplays Glastonbury on Saturday, and tours the UKFeb/March 2023. Self Esteem’s trademark sound – mixing tribal percussion (she is a äerce drummer) with huge gospel choruses and shards of jagged electronica – are the result of Rebecca’s collaboration with producer Johan Karlberg. “Sonically, it’s got to be big and dramatic and powerful,” she says. “So far, I’m renouncing any middle ground. The Lion King is a big inåuence!” She lost out at The Brits to Little Simz – but it was OK, she says, because she got to meet Doctor Who. “I was feeling a little deåated, then Jodie Whittaker came up and said: ‘I love your album! ’ I was like: ‘Oh my God! ’” She recently provided the score for Suzie Miller’s West End play Prima Facie, starring Jodie Comer as a lawyer who suffers a sexual assault. It’s been ‘an amazing experience’, she says. And there is surely no hotter ticket in 2022 than Jodie Comer and Self Esteem…? “Two gay icons, for sure,” she laughs. MUSICAL NOTES ‘My dream is that women get to wake up and not have to think about everything, in the way that men don’t’ POWERFUL PRESENCE Self Esteem on stage ( left); with Charles Watson in Slow Club (below) Photography: Robin Little/Redferns, Wendy Redfern/Redferns

23 J UNE 202 2 13 Less is more Hake with roasted red pepper sauce and other Savings To Savour p14 Beyond the canapé Diana Henry on how to keep your guests happy at parties p19 The great outdoors Elly Curshen’s meat-free menu for summer entertaining p23 FOOD&DRINK

14 23 J UNE 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Savings to savour If there’s one thing that shows how far vegetarian and vegan food has come in the recent years, it has to be barbecues. Not that long ago, if a vegetarian was invited to a barbie, they could expect to be fobbed off with a sad-looking veggie burger, while everyone else feasted on steaks and sausages – and good luck änding anything to eat at all if you were vegan! But, as this week’s amazing recipes from Elly Curshen show (p23), it’s perfectly possible to have a great barbecue without any meat, or even one that’s entirely plantbased. Her dishes are packed with åavour, and while I love a good steak as much as anyone, they’ve deänitely inspired me to try out some new ideas this summer. ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Teriyaki-roast aubergine, edamame & tofu flatbreads Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 20-30 minutes 1 Essential Aubergine, cut into 2.5cm chunks ½ x 100g pack Yo! Sweet & Sticky Teriyaki 2 tsp Essential Olive Oil 150g frozen Essential Edamame Beans 100g ärm silken tofu 1 Essential Lime, juice, plus wedges to serve 10g Clearspring Sushi Ginger, änely chopped, plus 1 tsp pickling liquid 2 Essential Wholemeal Tortilla Wraps 1 tbsp Good4U Salad Topper Super Seeds ¼ x 25g pack coriander, leaves only 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Put the aubergine on a parchment-lined baking tray and drizzle with the teriyaki sauce and 1 tsp oil. Toss the aubergine to evenly coat each piece, then roast for 20-30 minutes, until browned and tender, turning halfway through. 2 Meanwhile, bring a small pan of water to the boil. Cook the edamame beans for 2-3 minutes, then drain and plunge into cold water. When the beans are cool, tip them into the bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender with the tofu, lime juice, the pickling liquid from the ginger and the remaining 1 tsp oil. Whizz until smooth. Taste, season and whizz again. 3 Warm the wraps according to pack instruction, then spread the edamame mixture on top, followed by the aubergine chunks, seeds, coriander and sushi ginger. V Per serving 2048kJ/490kcals/21g fat/4.5g saturated fat/42g carbs/13g sugars/16g äbre/25g protein/1.7g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day High in protein Leek, artichoke & pea stew Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 25 minutes 80g piece Essential Baguette, torn into bitesized chunks 2 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 2 Essential Leeks, cut into 1.5cm rounds 2 cloves garlic, crushed 390g can Essential Artichoke Hearts In Water, drained 20g white miso paste 125ml dry white wine 500ml fresh vegetable stock 100g frozen Essential Petits Pois ½ unwaxed lemon, änely grated zest and juice ¼ x 25g pack basil, leaves only 3 sprigs mint, leaves only, shredded 1 Preheat the oven to 140ºC, gas mark 1. Spread the bread chunks out on a baking tray, then put in the oven to crisp up while you make the stew. 2 Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or casserole. Add the leeks and a pinch of salt and fry, stirring occasionally, for 6-8 minutes, until softened and starting to brown a little. Add the garlic and artichokes and fry for 1 minute more, then stir in the miso paste until all the veg is lightly coated. 3 Pour in the wine and bubble away until reduced by ½, then add the stock and bring to the boil again. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, adding the petits pois for the änal 2-4 minutes. Season and squeeze in the lemon juice. Add the bread to the pot and divide between bowls. Tear over the basil leaves, scatter with the mint and lemon zest and änish with black pepper. V Per serving 1841kJ/441kcals/16g fat/ 2.7g saturated fat/41g carbs/12g sugars/12g äbre/15g protein/1.8g salt/ source of äbre/vegan 2 of your 5 a day Waste not Use the leftover teriyaki sauce in a veg-packed stir fry with brown rice noodles. Peppers, salad onions, mushrooms, and broccoli would all work well, but use any veg that you have available. Top with toasted sesame seeds. Waste not Crisping up bread in the oven like this means it doesn’t disintegrate as soon as it touches the liquid. It’s also a brilliant way to use up bread that may be going a little stale and needs using up – baking will give it a new lease of life.

15 23 J UNE 202 2 Looking to save money on your food bills without sacrificing any of the flavour? The Weekend food team have created these simple and delicious midweek meals – all making the most of our great-value, great-quality Essential range. Cook’s tip To make this meal for 2, swap the chicken mince for some Essential sausages or chipolatas – simply squeeze the meat from the sausage skins, roll into balls and cook as above. Cook’s tip Essential chicken or turkey ällets, strips or slices would also work well here, as would our delicious pork chops. Adjust cooking times accordingly, until cooked through, the juices run clear and no pink meat remains. Waste not This recipe makes a generous amount of red pepper sauce as it’s really useful for leftovers – it pairs beautifully with grilled chicken or vegetables and works well as a quick pasta sauce, or as a dip with crudités, too. Chicken meatballs with rice, dill & orange Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 30 minutes 15g barberries 2 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 1 large Essential Red Onion, ½ coarsely grated, ½ änely sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tbsp zhoug 500g Essential 5% Fat British Chicken Mince 2 x 250g packs Merchant Gourmet Glorious Grains With Red Rice & Quinoa 125g Essential Spinach, roughly chopped 1 Essential Orange, scrubbed, zest and a squeeze of juice 20g pack dill 4 tbsp Essential Natural Yogurt 1 Immerse the barberries in just-boiled water, cover and set aside. Heat ½ tbsp oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the grated onion with a pinch of salt for 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes, then tip into a bowl and mix with the zhoug. Add the chicken mince, season and mix until well combined. Roll into 20 rough balls. 2 Heat 1 tbsp oil in the pan and fry the meatballs for 15 minutes over a medium heat, turning regularly until browned all over and the chicken is cooked through, the juices run clear and no pink meat remains. 3 Meanwhile, tip the grains into a large pan, then add a splash of water and ½ the spinach. Stir over a low heat until the rest of the spinach äts into the pan. When the spinach has wilted, take off the heat and add the sliced onion, orange zest and juice, dill, drained barberries and the remaining ½ tbsp oil. Season. Divide between plates, top with the meatballs and serve with a dollop of yogurt and a little more zhoug, if liked. Per serving 2312kJ/550kcals/18g fat/3.8g saturated fat/50g carbs/7.3g sugars/6.9g äbre/43g protein/1g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day High in protein Pork with peanut salsa & Chinese leaf slaw Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 15 minutes 1½ tbsp Essential Sunåower Oil 2 small cloves garlic, änely sliced 10g ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 large red chilli, deseeded and änely chopped ½ tsp Essential Clear Honey 1 tsp light soy sauce 30g Essential Roasted & Salted Peanuts, änely chopped 2 Essential British Pork Shoulder Steaks ¼ Chinese leaf, shredded 1 Essential Carrot, peeled and coarsely grated or julienned ¼ x 25g pack chives, änely chopped 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 tbsp black sesame seeds 1 To make the peanut salsa, heat a frying pan until smoking hot, then add 1 tbsp oil. Add the garlic, ginger and chilli and cook until golden and crisp – take care not to burn the garlic. Pour into a small bowl and stir in the honey, soy and peanuts. Set aside. 2 Wipe out the frying pan, then heat the remaining ½ tbsp oil over a high heat. Season the pork and fry for 6-7 minutes on each side, until cooked through and golden, the juices run clear and no pink meat remains. Transfer to a plate to rest. 3 While the pork is resting, mix the Chinese leaf, carrot and chives in a bowl with the sesame oil and sesame seeds. Serve alongside the pork with the peanut salsa. Per serving 2175kJ/524kcals/40g fat/ 10g saturated fat/9.4g carbs/8.1g sugars/5.5g äbre/28g protein/0.7g salt Hake with roast red pepper sauce & charred salad onions Serves 4 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 20 minutes 350g Essential Charlotte Potatoes, large ones halved or quartered 1 bunch Essential Salad Onions 2 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 2 x 200g packs Essential Hake Fillets 50g whole skin-on almonds 1 small clove garlic, crushed 180g roasted red peppers (from a jar), drained and roughly chopped 1 tbsp sundried tomato paste ¼ tsp hot smoked paprika ¼ x 25g pack åat leaf parsley, roughly chopped, plus extra leaves to serve ½ tbsp sherry vinegar ½ x 265g pack Essential Mixed Salad 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Boil the potatoes for 15-20 minutes, until tender. Meanwhile, peel and discard the outer skins from the salad onions, trim the bases and halve larger ones lengthways. Arrange in 1 layer on a baking tray, toss with 1 tbsp oil and season. Roast for 5 minutes. 2 Pat the hake dry using kitchen paper, drizzle with ½ tbsp oil and season. Put the äsh on the baking tray and cook for 12-15 minutes more, until the onions are slightly charred and tender and the äsh is cooked through, opaque and åakes easily with a fork. 3 Meanwhile, put the almonds in the small bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender. Whizz until the nuts are the size of breadcrumbs. Add the garlic, peppers, tomato paste, paprika, parsley and vinegar, then blend again until it forms a thick paste. 4 Dress the salad leaves with the remaining ½ tbsp oil and some seasoning, then serve with the hake, salad onions, potatoes and pepper sauce. Finish with a little parsley. Per serving 1325kJ/317kcals/16g fat/ 2g saturated fat/19g carbs/4.1g sugars/5.1g äbre/23g protein/1.1g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Low in saturated fat Recipe writer: Sophie Pryn, Photography: Sam Folan, Food stylist: Jennifer Joyce, Prop stylist: Wei Tang