Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 602

FREE 26 May 2022 HAPPY AND GLORIOUS A special edition to mark Her Majesty The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee

26 MAY 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS In recognition of her record-breaking seven-decade reign, HerMajesty The Queen’s PlatinumJubilee celebrations will culminate in a four-day weekend filled with pomp, pageantry and street parties. Beginning with the lighting of beacons across the UK and wider Commonwealth on 2 June and ending with a pageant through London charting HerMajesty’s life on 5 June, the o cial events programme promises to be as impressive as themilestone it marks. “This is what the country needs after the past two years: to get together and celebrate,” says Anita Atkinson, host of a Royal Teas themed pop-up in County Durham. “And what better cause for celebration thanHerMajesty’s 70 years of service to us? The Silver Jubilee in 1977 exceeded all expectations, but I think this year’s celebrations will top even that.” Symbolising unity, a border-crossing beacon relay has been a cornerstone of Royal Jubilee commemorations since 1897, Queen Victoria’s Diamond year. For the first time, all 54 Commonwealth countries will burn beacons for the PlatinumJubilee, with the Principal Beacon, built from350 trees and towering 21 metres, lit at BuckinghamPalace. Streamed live on BBCOne, hosted by Kirsty Young and Roman Kemp, the PlatinumParty at the Palace will see rock and pop’s biggest names – including headline act Diana Ross and George Ezra – play a 360-degree stage, purpose built to encircle the Queen VictoriaMemorial in front of Buckingham Palace (4 June). Ranging frombarbecues to the world’s longest street party record attempts, more than 60,000 people are throwing Big Jubilee Lunches prior to the televised PlatinumJubilee Pageant, starting at 2.30pm, which brings the extended bank holiday weekend to a close on 5 June. Taking place across central London in four acts, the pageant will begin with For Queen &Country, featuring UKArmed Forces andmilitary personnel fromacross the Commonwealth, spanning Australia, Canada, Ghana, Belize and Sri Lanka. Act two, The Time of Our Lives, charts popular culture over the past 70 years, from the 50s LambethWalk through to 70s Glam Rock and 90s Britpop to the present day. It will be led by a procession of 150media and sport stars, including Sir Cli Richard, Alan Titchmarsh, Torvill and Dean, Gary Lineker, Rosie Jones, Kadeena Cox and Heston Blumenthal. “I feel so proud to be part of this celebration,” saysWaitrose brand ambassador Heston (left). “During HerMajesty’s reign, the country has become a Pomp, pageantry and parties mark Platinum Jubilee A four-act spectacle through London and star-studded concert at BuckinghamPalace are among the highlights as the nation celebrates 70 years of service fromHerMajesty The Queen. Alice Ryan reports

26 MAY 202 2 3 place where we can truly celebrate human imagination and creativity. “Throughmy research into historical British cooking and Royal Families, I have never come across amonarch who has achieved what she has. This is an incredible milestone andmoment for thewhole country.” Act three, Let’s Celebrate, will unite performance groups fromacross the UK in amélange of Carnival, Fiesta, May Day, Mela andMardi Gras. It will star a 21-foot dragon puppet, a ‘river’ of schoolchildren flying flags of hope and a giant model oak and maypole, whose interlocking ribbons form an image of The Queen. Ed Sheeran will then lead the Happy and Glorious finale, inviting the crowd to join a gospel choir, the Band of HerMajesty’s Royal Marines and evenmore famous faces, such as Jeremy Irons, Bill Bailey and GokWan, in singing the National Anthem. Havingmade headlines with her 12,000-piece collection of Royal memorabilia – some of which will go on show at the pop-up tearoomat The Reading Rooms in Bishop Auckland on 2 and 3 June, a collaboration with local charity Bridge Creative, which helps adults with learning di culties into employment – Anita says everyone should take this opportunity to pay tribute toHerMajesty. “I’ve always thought of her as Elizabeth the Great, but now I think Elizabeth the Steadfast is more fitting,” Anita concludes. “She’s been there for us through somuch, unwavering in her service, and you don’t have to be a Royalist to admire that.” 1 ABERDEEN Set to bring thousands together to celebrate with tea, cake and sandwiches, Aberdeen’s Duthie Park is the site for a giant Queen’s Jubilee Family Picnic hosted by the city’s Lord Provost (5 June). 2 HILLSBOROUGH A chance to drink and dine in regal style, Hillsborough Castle, Northern Ireland’s ofäcial Royal residence, is hosting a four-day Jubilee Garden Party (2-5 June). 3 YORK With attractions including a red double-decker converted into a ‘bus bar’ and a showcase of Yorkshire food and drink, ranging from artisan cheese to small-batch gin, Yorkshire Spring Fair & Food Festival will also feature a communal Jubilee picnic (27 May-5 June). 4 SHEFFIELD Estimated to attract 50,000 visitors over the bank holiday weekend, Shefäeld Food Festival has moved from its usual spring dates to coincide For the ärst time, ofäcial Jubilee beacons will be lit in the capital of every Commonwealth country. They will blaze on 2 June, the anniversary of Her Majesty’s Coronation. The newly written Song for the Commonwealth – music by Nigerian composer Vincent Atueyi Chinemelu and lyrics by Australian singer-songwriter Lucy Kiely – will be sung in unison by choirs in all 54 countries, also on 2 June. State buildings and monuments in cities across the Commonwealth will be illuminated in royal purple – the shade selected for the ofäcial Platinum Jubilee emblem – from 2 to 5 June. ACROSS THE COMMONWEALTH The Platinum Jubilee will be marked in all 54 Commonwealth nations TIME TO CELEBRATE (clockwise from left) Her Majesty The Queen; Diana Ross; street parties; the Band of the Scots Guards; George Ezra The nation celebrates Public events and more than 2,200 street parties have been announced nationwide, ensuring the Jubilee weekend will bring people together to share food, drink and community spirit its 10th anniversary with the Platinum Jubilee, where streets will be lined with stalls and showcases of city farming and organic produce (2-5 June). 5 LIVERPOOL Taste Liverpool is set to turn the city’s most foodie streets, Hope Street, Bold Street and Castle Street, into immersive culinary experiences, via chef demos, restaurant takeovers and tastings (2-5 June). 6 ELY Eel is on the menu for Jubil-Eel Day, which celebrates the famous Fenland äsh as well as Her Majesty’s seven-decade reign. A vast eel puppet will lead 5,000 locals through the streets to the Jubilee Gardens location for a big community picnic (5 June). 7 WINDSOR A world record attempt will take place for the biggest picnic by seating an estimated 1,600 people at a 500m table – breaking the previous record, set at the May International Festival in Memphis, Tennessee, by 100m (5 June). 8 WOODSTOCK Four days of culinary celebration – including masterclasses with star chefs, such as Gennaro Contaldo of Two Greedy Italians and Bake Off’s Karen Wright – Blenheim Food Festival runs throughout the Jubilee bank holiday weekend (2-5 June). 9 LLANELLI The start of a 10-month series of cook-and-share workshops culminating in a commemorative Jubilee Cookbook, Breaking Bread Food Festival aims to bring old and young together through food, with high tea served alongside the cookery sessions (2 June). 10 TOPSHAM A street dining event featuring 350 tables laid end-to-end, the ‘longest table celebration’ will bring Topsham Jubilee Food Festival in Devon to a close (5 June). 1 2 3 4 5 8 9 6 7 10 Photography: Samir Hussein/WireImage, Getty Images, Shutterstock, Myles New Cover Photography: Bettmann / Getty Images

4 26 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Above and beyond During her seven decades on the throne, The Queen has balanced family life with travelling widely to perform her Royal duties. Here are the central moments from her remarkable reign 1952 Queen Elizabeth II succeeds to the throne upon the death of her father, George VI, on 6 February 1953 The Coronation takes place on 2 June after months of meticulous planning. More than 20 million Britons crowd around TV sets to watch the 27-year-old crowned at Westminster Abbey, and 11 million more listen on the wireless 1953 The Royal Yacht Britannia (above) is launched, and will sail more than a million miles on 968 ofäcial visits. Decommissioned in 1997, Britannia is now a åoating museum in Leith, Edinburgh 1953-4 The Queen embarks on a äve-and-a-half month tour of the Commonwealth, covering 40,000 miles across the West Indies, Australasia, Asia and Africa 1957 The Queen’s Christmas message is delivered on television for the ärst time, 25 years after it was ärst given in a radio broadcast by King George V 1964 Prince Edward is born at Buckingham Palace, completing the family. His birth follows Prince Charles in 1948, Princess Anne in 1950 and Prince Andrew in 1960 1965 The Queen visits West Germany to mark the 20th anniversary of the Second World War ending. It is the ärst Royal visit since 1913 1969 Prince Charles is invested as The Prince of Wales by The Queen at Caernarfon Castle (below) 1970 The Queen instigates the ‘Royal walkabout’ during a visit to Australia and New Zealand. The practice allows her to meet as many people as possible, rather than just ofäcials and dignitaries 1972 The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh celebrate their silver wedding anniversary 1977 Royal fever takes hold for The Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977, with fêtes and street parties held across the UK 1979 The Queen’s cousin, Lord Mountbatten, dies in an IRA bomb attack on his boat off Mullaghmore, Sligo. He was also uncle to The Duke of Edinburgh, who revered him 1981 The Prince of Wales marries Lady Diana Spencer at St Paul’s Cathedral. Their son Prince William is born the following June, followed by Prince Harry in 1984 time flies The Queen and Prince Philip wave to crowds gathered at Buckingham Palace to celebrate her Coronation in 1953 (below); a street party in Deptford for the Silver Jubilee, 1977 (right); The Queen in Tonga during her Commonwealth tour, 1953-54 (bottom)

5 26 MAY 202 2 1986 The Queen becomes the ärst British monarch to visit mainland China, two years after Margaret Thatcher’s government agreed to return sovereignty over Hong Kong to China from 1997 1992 The Queen declares this her ‘annus horribilis’, after The Prince of Wales and Prince Andrew separate from their wives, Princess Anne divorces Captain Mark Phillips, and a äre breaks out at Windsor Castle, severely damaging 115 rooms 1995 The Queen visits South Africa as the guest of President Nelson Mandela, a year after apartheid ended 2002 For the Golden Jubilee, The Queen visits the Caribbean, Australia, New Zealand and Canada, as well as 70 cities in the UK. Her sister, Princess Margaret, dies aged 71 in February and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother passes away in April, aged 101 2005 Camilla Parker Bowles marries The Prince of Wales, and becomes The Duchess of Cornwall 2008 Former South African President Nelson Mandela visits Buckingham Palace as part of his 90th birthday celebrations 2011 The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh visit the Republic of Ireland for the ärst time 2011 Prince William marries Catherine Middleton and they become The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge 2011 US President Barack Obama (below) attends a state banquet at the Palace during a two-day visit to the UK 2012 The Queen sails down the Thames in the rain on a royal barge for her Diamond Jubilee 2013 The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s ärst child, Prince George, is born. He is third in line to the throne 2016 More than 900 beacons are lit across the UK and overseas in April to mark The Queen’s 90th birthday 1993 Parts of Buckingham Palace are opened to the public for the ärst time, with proceeds raising 70% of Windsor Castle’s refurbishment cost. A day ticket grants access to the State Rooms, The Queen’s Gallery and the Royal Mews 2017 The Queen and The Duke of Edinburgh are the ärst members of the Royal Family to celebrate their platinum wedding anniversary 2017 The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge move from Norfolk to Kensington Palace, to take up their full-time roles as working Members of the Royal Family 2018 Prince Harry marries Meghan Markle. Two years later, the couple move to the US and step back from Royal duties 2019 Aged 92, The Queen shares her ärst Instagram post – a message and photo about a visit to the Science Museum 2021 The Duke of Edinburgh’s funeral takes place at Windsor Castle. Due to Covid restrictions, The Queen is seated alone and only 30 people attend 2022 The Queen cuts the cake at a reception for community groups at Sandringham on 5 February, the eve of Accession Day. The event marks the 70th anniversary of her reign and the start of the Platinum Jubilee celebrations meet and greet With Nelson Mandela in South Africa in 1995 ( left); the Diamond Jubilee River Thames pageant in 2012 (below); visiting Canton, China in 1986 (bottom); watching Tjapukai Aborigines light a ceremonial fire in Cairns, Australia in 2002, on the final leg of her Golden Jubilee tour (below left) Photography: Getty Images, Alamy Stock Photo

6 26 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views What do you thinkHerMajesty would do if left to her own devices on her PlatinumJubilee weekend? There can’t be many people on this planet who head towards a bank holiday weekend thinking: “Oh, actually, I am the holiday!” And whatever persuasion of royalist or shade of republican youmay be, you’d have to have a heart of stone not to want to wishQueen Elizabeth II well in her celebrations. It’s such a long period of service. Somuch smiling, so much polite interest, somuch support. Perhaps we should all sign a petition saying: “Head to the hills, Ma’am! We’ve got this!” Then she’d be able to spend the weekend at Balmoral. You can see why the fairy tale castle on Royal Deeside is just that. It’s been a favourite of the family since it was bought for Queen Victoria by Prince Albert in 1852. The young couple decided they wanted to build amore substantial property on the estate. Themulti-turreted ‘modern’ castle was built just 100 yards from the existing one, so that Albert and Victoria could live in the old property while the building work was done. Every generation has added something to Balmoral – The Duke of Edinburgh added a veg garden and planted oaks. Who knows what the next generationmight put in? We are unlikely to ever find out, though, as there have been very few glimpses inside the private rooms. You can, however, visit the grounds and the ballroom, where there’s currently an exhibition of some of The Queen’s outfits and a Salmon School art installation. Although privacymust be one of the things The Queen enjoys about Balmoral, I imagine she also loves Deeside’s ability to stand still in time. Nature’s grandeur does that to a place. The hills turn a glorious purple over the summer with heather. There are gentle riverside walks under a rustling canopy of beeches, clear waters running in the River Dee and salmon leaping, plus a sense that time marches to a di erent beat. Balmoral is also hosting a corgi meet on the lawns – arranged by the Corgi Society of Scotland – where 70 of themwill meet to wag, waddle and show o those permanent smiles. I hope HerMajesty enjoys every second of her Jubilee – and that she then gets to close the door behind her in her Scottish idyll and breathe a sigh of relief and dutiful satisfaction. And I hope someone has cleared up the lawn. ‘It’s such a long period of service. So much smiling, so much polite interest, so much support’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover day of joy A street party in London for The Queen’s Coronation (right); chef Graham Squire (below right); his sole dish at The Goring Hotel (bottom right); the 1953 banquet menu ( far right); a coronation chicken sandwich (below) On 3 June 1953, our newQueen sat down at a banquet, the first of several gatherings, to celebrate her Coronation the previous day. The spectacular ballroomof BuckinghamPalace was filled with heads of state, dignitaries andmembers of foreign royal families. Tables glittered with the silver gilt and Sèvres porcelain of the George IVGrand Service. Flowers were arranged at HerMajesty’s insistence so that all guests could clearly see her andTheDuke of Edinburgh. Howenthusiastically TheQueen tucked into the foodwewill never know, because that sort of detail is never shared. The complexity of creating the menus can only be imagined too. In 1953, many food items were still rationed and the Royal Family was not exempt. But Palace chefs devised a summery five-coursemenu – written in French – that included sole, rack of lamb with buttered green beans and new potatoes, asparagus with a hollandaise-likemousseline sauce and strawberries. On the following evening there was salmon, beef with peas and potatoes, more asparagus and an iced sou é. It sounds simple, but this was post-war Britain and as GrahamSquire, executive chef at The Goring Hotel, a stone’s throw from the Palace, says: “Amenu filled with rich salmon and sole, buttery asparagus, plump strawberries and sweet treats would’ve been very well received.” Seasonal British ingredients made it possible. “Asparagus and strawberries would have been abundant, as would salmon and sole with their seasons in full swing,” adds Graham. Themenu is not too di erent from the Coronation bu et available to shoppers at the John Lewis store on London’s Oxford Street – iced consommé, lobster, salmon, chicken in aspic and strawberries and cream. Nor is it far removed frommenus at The Goring, whose residents at the time of the Coronation included members of the royal families of Monaco, Greece and Liechtenstein. Graham is honouring the links this summer by recreating a PlatinumJubilee version of themenu they would have eaten. A cornet de saumon fumé from 1953 returns as a smoked John Ross salmon cornet with English wasabi and caviar. Consommé double is now chicken consommé, glazed veal sweetbread, morel and broad bean, and filet de sole Edinburgh is updated as Dover sole with seaweed-buttered Jersey Royal potatoes. A crown of English strawberry parfait is the take on parfait aux fraisesWindsor. “Dishes were named ambiguously after royal links,” says Graham. “This gave us room to be creative. We wanted to honour the 1953menu and its connection to seasonal British produce.” For drinks, the cellar’s finest Bordeaux were opened for Palace guests – a premier grand cru classé Château Lafite Rothschild 1934, a Saint-Julien grand cru classé Château Léoville Poyferré from the same vintage and a 1928 Château d’YquemSauternes. Meanwhile, shoppers at the John BarnesWaitrose store in north London could fill their glasses with a simple white Bordeaux, Château duMoulin Blanc Entre-deux-Mers, or VP Point-branded red or white wine for six shillings. Some splashed out, toasting the occasion with a 35-shilling bottle of 1947Moët & Chandon, or a 1945 Veuve Clicquot Champagne. If any dish is associated with the Coronation it is, of course, coronation chicken – cold poached chicken in a curriedmayonnaise. Poulet Reine Elizabeth, as it was first named, was served after the service atWestminster Flavours from an historic day With post-war rationing still in place whenHerMajesty The Queen succeeded to the throne, creativity was a key element of the celebratory menu, writes Tessa Allingham ‘It wasn’t luxurious, but children ran about, parents had a drink. I remember it being so much fun’ Photography: StockFood, Alamy Stock Photo, Tony Ward

7 26 MAY 202 2 Yesterday’s Spy (Bantam Press) is out now. Interview: Emma Higginbotham 7 QUESTIONS WITH… TOM BRADBY The newsreader and novelist on spying skills and cooking with crab 1 Where do you live? In Hampshire with my wife, Claudia. My three adult children come and go, and we have a small dog, who we love very much. 2 What did you want to be when you were little? My mum’s father was a doctor who died in the Second World War, so I thought maybe I’d be a doctor – but I was terrible at science. The next thing I wanted to be was a journalist. 3Best moment on air? The end of election night is always my favourite because it’s after eight hours of solid broadcasting. There was once a moment where I leaned my head back and exhaled in relief, and it slightly unfortunately went viral on YouTube. But that’s how you feel – you’re just so exhausted. 4 Describe your 10th book, Yesterday’s Spy, in a sentence… A thumping page-turner about a man in search of his lost son, in more ways than one. 5 Would you make a good spy? I’d be terrible. Some journalistic skills are similar – developing sources and getting information out of them – but journalists are wired a different way. They want to publicise information, not keep it secret. 6 Are you a good cook? I’m a ‘getting better’ cook. I’ve found cooking more and more therapeutic as I’ve got older, and I’m getting more conädent. I love making crab linguine from Sydney Food by Bill Granger, and I’m a passionate fan of Ottolenghi. 7 How are you spending the Jubilee, and what do you admire about The Queen? Some old friends of ours are getting married that weekend, so we’ll be principally celebrating that. The Queen is just so incredibly steady and consistent, and in a constitutional monarch, that’s really what people want. Abbey, part of a lunch that included tomato soup with tarragon, aspic-coated trout and a lemonmousse. It was created by RosemaryHume, cook, teacher, and co-founder of Le CordonBleu’s London cookery school. In her eponymous 1956 cookery book, Rosemary’s colleague, Constance Spry, recalls in brisk detail the challenge set by theMinister ofWorks, Sir DavidEccles, of creating, preparing and serving the Coronation lunch. She wrote: “Once the planwas firmly established, we concerned ourselves exclusively with our problems, which in brief were these. The luncheonwas for about 350 people. By 2pm, the guests would be hungry and probably cold. There would be people of many nationalities, some of whomwould eat nomeat. Kitchen accommodationwas too small to serve hot food beyond soup and co ee. The serving of the food would have to be simple because all the waitresses would be amateurs.” They pulled it o . Poulet Reine Elizabethwould become an enduringly popular dish but it would have been too expensive for most people in 1953. InRamsgate, 12-year-old Sheila sat with her cousins on the stairs at her aunt’s house, while adults commandeered armchairs around the television, bought for the occasion. “I remember UncleHarry moving aroundwith the aerial to get a signal,” she says. “The grown-ups all had sherry and I remember thinking it smelled horrible. After the Coronation, we took our own food onto the street. We’dmade flags at school andmymother hadmademe a skirt using red, white and blue crepe paper. We had fish paste sandwiches and jelly froma big bowl. There were fairy cakes with hundreds and thousands. It wasn’t luxurious, but the children ran about, parents had a drink and someone played war songs on a piano. I remember it being somuch fun.”

9 26 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart WEEK 20: PLANNING AND HAVING AN ECO JUBILEE PARTY Likemany people, I’ve joined aWhatsApp groupwithmy neighbours andwe’ve been discussing logistics ahead of our Platinum Jubilee street party. Right now, baking and bunting are front ofmind. Being a newcomer tomy area, I haven’t wanted to go too heavy on eco concerns. Launching into a personal crusade against single-use plastic, or demonstrating strong views on clingfilm, can put a dampener on celebrations. But with 1.1 billion plastic plates and 4.3 billion items of single-use cutlery being used inEngland every year, outdoor eating’s sizeable footprint deserves attention. IsabelMack, who set up the PartyKit Network, which connects people holding a partywith local kits of reusable tableware, says planning ahead is crucial. “It’s impossible to have a zero-waste party, butmaking early decisions about howyou are going to deal with di erent kinds of rubbish, and encouraging people to bring reusable cups, crockery and tablecloths can reduce your impact significantly,” she says. Before the party starts, consider where to stash recycling. If glass bottles and cans get mixed upwith foodwaste, separating it later is unpleasant and unlikely to happen. “Use a tub for foodwaste and another for cardboard and napkins. Thosewith compost bins can take some of it home,” says Isabel. If sewing’s not your thing, you can even rent bunting (buntingbyjen.co.uk), and I sawa hack online, usingmini clothes pegs to attach fabric triangles to twine – no needle required. As for the fabric, try using old bedding, although I’mnot sure I knowmy neighbours well enough to airmy ancient linens. My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD Themost painful memories are the ones that stick around. This week, I read a script that said: “Tell us about the day youmet The Queen,” and all I could think about was the day I didn’t. I was born in the 13th year of her reign. We are told that Queen Elizabeth II has met more people than anyone in history (not tomention every US president since Truman except LBJ, and every primeminister since Churchill). So you would think theremight be a good chance of me bumping into HerMajesty sometime beforemymid-fifties. But here I am, unmet at 57, and time is not onmy side. The painful memory is the only one I have. It was 2017, and Radio 2 had occupied some plots at Chelsea Flower Show. We had five ‘sensory gardens’ to represent the human senses. Chris Evans had a taste garden, Anneka Rice’s garden was colour themed. Zoe Ball’s made a noise and JoWhiley’s had smell. I had touch –my plants, likemy radio show, being occasionally abrasive. We were told in hushed tones by a BBCmanager: “There is a very special guest coming the day before the public opening – someone so special we can’t tell you who, but it’s The Queen.” The site by the Thames was locked down before HerMajesty’s arrival. For several hours, JoWhiley and I chatted about music and life as we waited for The Queen to arrive. However, I can’t remember anything Jo toldme about music or life, because all I was thinking was I was about tomeet The Queen. For years my world had been haunted by Paul Weller’s line fromThe Jam song DavidWatts. I ama dull and simple lad/Cannot tell water fromChampagne/And I have never met The Queen. I was a bolshy 12 at around the time that record came out. I remember being dragged to the Palace bymy parents onemorning so our family could join the crowds celebrating the Silver Jubilee — at the time, 25 years on the throne seemed incredible. My dad parked around the corner, with one wheel on the Buckingham Palace kerb (also incredible) and we stood for hours. Finally, we saw the golden carriage and the gentlemovement of a white-gloved hand fromwithin. I had begun the day cross and ended it with a sense of wonder. The securitymarshal at Chelsea Flower Showwokeme from mymemories. “She’s oneminute away!” I jumped up and stood grinning next to the sign saying: The Jeremy Vine Texture Garden. As The Queen’s hat bobbed in the distance, the marshal came closer. “Hey, you’re not wearing the right pass.” I stammered: “But… I’ve got this pass, look!”My heart bumped as he said: “That’s not the right pass.” The hat was almost here. “But… ” I turned desperately to indicate the sign, which even hadmy photo on. Possibly aware of the tense discussion to her left, and the ganglyman with grey hair close to tears, The Queen chose not to stop at my Texture Garden, and went to look at Chris Evans’ vegetables. When people talk about imposter syndrome, I say it’s not always in themind. So in the words of MrWeller, I have never met The Queen. I guess it won’t happen now. I only hope that when I gather with my neighbours to celebrate her 70 years, no one will tell me I’m wearing the wrong pass. I was so close but yet so far to a meeting with Her Majesty Illustration: Alex Green/Folioart MY WEEK Jeremy Vine

11 26 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Seventy years of celebrations With the Platinum Jubilee weekend almost upon us, we delve into the John Lewis Partnership archives to discover how the retailer marked the life and service of our Monarch over the past seven decades 1953: The Queen’s Coronation On 2 June 1953, twomillion people lined the streets to see the Coronation procession, which wound its way through the capital towardsWestminster Abbey. Marching soldiers, military bands, horse-drawn carriages – and of course HerMajesty The Queen herself – passed directly in front of John Lewis’s flagship store on Oxford Street. The retailer sold tickets to the event, with prices ranging from 10 to 35 guineas, depending on the view. Each ticket included a continental breakfast, lunch and tea. To cater for those who couldn’t be there, John Lewis also rented TV sets. Around 20million people witnessed the day’s events on television – it was the first time viewers had outnumbered radio audiences, heralding a new age of popular television. 1977: The Silver Jubilee Tomark the 25th anniversary of The Queen’s succession to the throne, Jubilee lunches took place at many John Lewis andWaitrose stores. With the 70s in full flow, the menu at the Bainbridge Waitrose, Yorkshire, featured a grapefruit starter, followed by royal game soup and a braised pork chop, called Charlie’s 2012: The Diamond Jubilee Only one of The Queen’s predecessors, Queen Victoria, stayed on the throne for 60 years – shemarked the occasion with a state banquet in 1897. In 2012, themain celebrations for HerMajesty took place on a long weekend between 2 and 4 June. Waitrose introduced picnic hampers, featuring Diamond Jubilee chicken, Sandringham strawberry crumble crunch and a Fiona Cairns chocolate cupcake. With the real ale revolution in full swing, the retailer launched a limited-edition Duchy Originals fromWaitrose Organic Diamond Jubilee India Pale Ale. It also joined forces with the London Philharmonic Orchestra to sell the o cial Jubileemusic CD, which featured the James Bond theme as well as Elgar and Gilbert & Sullivan. 2022: The PlatinumJubilee Seventy years after her Coronation, Queen Elizabeth II has now reigned for longer than any other Britishmonarch. To celebrate, pour yourself a G&Twith BuckinghamPalace gin (below), made from botanicals growing in the palace gardens. For an alternative toast, Moët &Chandon have released a PlatinumJubilee Cuvée Rosé Champagne, exclusive toWaitrose. While crispmaker Tyrells is launching an exclusive coronation chicken flavour. At John Lewis, the Barbie Signature Queen Elizabeth II Platinum Jubilee Doll is winning hearts, along with a commemorative range fromeco brand Bags of Ethics, which has partnered with treeplanting initiative The Queen’s Green Canopy. The range includes tea towels, biscuit tins, picnic blankets and cool bags. Selected items online at johnlewis.com, inWaitrose stores or at waitrose.com chop. The dessert was queen of puddings, a British classic with a custard base, topped with fruit andmeringue. Jubilee-themed clothing was also available at John Lewis stores, including Union Jack T-shirts (£1.75 each), colourful pop socks with a royal crest (79p) and headscarves featuring The Queen andHRHThe Duke of Edinburgh (£4.95). The o cial Jubilee tie, sold inmenswear departments, cost £1.95. 2002: The Golden Jubilee Marking half a century of ourMonarch’s reign, the Golden Jubilee culminated in two concerts at BuckinghamPalace – Promat the Palace and Party at the Palace. Waitrose was chosen to cater for these events. It designed an o cial Jubilee picnic hamper and its lorries were spottedmaking their way through the gates of the Palace. The hamper’s centrepiece was Jubilee chicken, an updated version of the Coronation dish, created by palace chefs and approved by The Queen. Other items included a Jubilee salad, smoked salmon roulade, strawberries and cream, half a bottle of Champagne and, most essential of all, amac – although, luckily, the rain held o for most of the weekend. LANDMARK OCCASIONS The Queen at Eldon Square shopping centre, Newcastle, as part of her Silver Jubilee tour in 1977 (top); Waitrose lorries deliver food for the Diamond Jubilee picnics in 2012 (above); the food and drink selection given to guests attending Prom at the Palace in 2002 ( left) majestic celebrations The Coronation procession passes John Lewis, Oxford Street in 1953 ( left); fireworks mark the end of the Diamond Jubilee concert at Buckingham Palace, 2012 (below) Photography: Getty Images, The John Lewis Partnership Archive, Alamy Stock Photo

12 26 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS WhenMichael Morpurgo lunched withHerMajesty The Queen, the conversation inevitably turned to horses. For it was a horse that prompted their paths to cross – Joey, life-sized puppet star of War Horse, the National Theatre adaptation of Michael’s bestselling children’s book. “She happened to have seen the play and developed a great a ection for Joey, somuch so that he was invited to see her before I was: he had his own audience with The Queen at Windsor Castle,” laughsMichael. “When you get close to her, she’s not got a crown on her head and she’s not full of airs and graces, so I just talked to her about horses and a bit about the play... It was just a very easy conversation. “She was tremendously friendly and engaging and, in a way, I forgot that she was The Queen. There was amoment where I thought: ‘Hang on, you’re a granny – you’re like my granny, I’ve known you all my life.’ There was this extraordinary sense that she was one of the family.” That lunch in 2016 – at whichMichael alsomet a halfdozen of HerMajesty’s corgis, who heralded her arrival at the table with a pitter-patter of paws “like a very, very gentle roll of drums” – in part inspired There Once is a Queen. A fairy tale biography of HerMajesty, the former Children’s Laureate was invited to write it in honour of the PlatinumJubilee. “This occasion seemed tome worth being a part of, because it’s a celebration of a great life: the life of an extraordinary woman, who happens to be a Queen,” saysMichael. “For most people, she’s part of a fairy story, so I thought: ‘Write a fairy story, don’t be shy about it.’ “[At lunch] she toldme about her amazement at meeting her first proper horse; shemust have been about 10, graduating fromher ponies. She had to reach up to touch it and described it as feeling ‘like warmvelvet’, which I found particularlymoving. So that moment had to go into the book.” While it pays tribute to her achievements on the world stage – saysMichael: “She’s charted for us, I think, some way forward froma time when this was a country of Empire into another world, amodern world” – There Once is a Queen imagines HerMajesty’s life away from the public eye. Illustrated byMichael Foreman, it begins with a young princess planting a sapling with her daddy and ends with a ‘granny Queen’ sitting beneath the resulting oak. It’s here that she shares confidences with her beloved horses and hounds: “It’s the place she goes to,” explainsMichael, “to be peaceful, out of everyone’s eyesight and earshot, where she can just be herself again. “The countryside is where she is clearly at her happiest, we can see that. She’s plantedmore trees than the rest of us have had hot dinners and, of course, the oak is quite a symbol of this country. So I felt an oak was a great symbol to have at the heart of the story.” Born in St Albans in 1943, the second son of Royal Academy of Dramatic Art-trained actors Tony Van Bridge and Kippe Cammaerts, Michael credits his mother with sparking his love for storytelling. “She had a wonderful reading voice and used to play parts,” he recalls. “She would come and sit on our bed –myself andmy brother Pieter – and she’d read us stories with enormous commitment. And they soaked into you, so I grew up loving stories.” Estranged while separated by the SecondWorldWar, Michael’s parents divorced when he was still a toddler. His mother remarried American literature professor Jack Morpurgo, her boys were given his name andMichael didn’t discover his father’s identity until his late teens, finally meeting him in his twenties. “I came froma split family – that’s what war does, it splits families up – and there was a degree of unhappiness,” he says Best known as the author of War Horse, the children’s novel which became a global hit on stage and screen, Sir Michael Morpurgo’s latest fairy tale follows the life story of Her Majesty The Queen. Alice Ryan talks to him ‘There’s a sense that she’s one of the family’

13 26 MAY 202 2 Photography: Jim Wileman / Guardian / eyevine

15 26 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS simply. “It is true, I think, when people ask – children ask this quite a lot – ‘Why do you write such sad stories?’, that you have to tell them straight, look them in the eye and say: ‘Look, if you write at all, there’s no point in writing unless you tell the truth.’ And the truth is that, as I was growing up, there was a lot of sadness, and I know it’s going on [in children’s lives] now, and you do not forget, you really do not forget, your childhood and things that happened to you.” Evacuated to Northumberland as littlemore than a baby, Michael returned to a London of rationing and bombsites; of limbless veterans begging for coins on the streets. “The adults were inmourning: mymother lost a brother and that was in the house. She su ered a lot. Everyone who lived through it su ered... What it did, of course, was tell me what war does, and that sets into you.” The subject recurs inMichael’s work, most famously in War Horse, which centres on farmhorse Joey, bought by the Army and sent to the French front in the FirstWorldWar, and themission his original owner, 15-year-old Albert, mounts to bring himhome safely. The book, published in 1982, became a National Theatre stage play in 2007, starring the now-iconic Handspring Puppet Company horses. Intended to run for 16 weeks, it went on to spend eight years in theWest End and to tour the globe, selling nigh on 10million tickets and winning two Olivier Awards. The book also became a 2011 Steven Spielberg film. Though he loved listening to stories, Michael harboured no writerly ambitions growing up: “I wasn’t a great reader as a child, I really wasn’t. School immediately turned words into the business of testing, of marks and red lines through things.” On leaving boarding school, he went to Sandhurst and, though he swiftly realised the Army was not for him, the move led to his first meeting withHerMajesty. Selected as one of three cadets to accompany her on tour in India, one each from the Army, Navy and Air Force, “we weremostly shadowing her visit,” recountsMichael, “but we did get tomeet her once and honestly, I can’t remember anything, all I know is how terrified I was. “I was told you have to shake hands and salute. As she was coming along the line, I couldn’t remember which came first, and no one onmy left was a soldier, so I couldn’t follow suit. I just had a huge panic. I did it in the end and she passed on by and smiled, which, of course, she does wonderfully.” On leaving the Army, Michael “just about got through” university and, like his by-then-wife, Clare, whomhemarried aged just 19, he became a teacher. “I found myself standing in front of a class of children, 35 little Year 6s. You know part of a teacher’s job is to entertain them and hold their attention – and I found the best way to do that was to do exactly what mymother had done and read thema story.” When the children’s interest in a particular story began to flag, Clare counselled her husband to tell one of his own, which he duly did. The headmistress sneaked into the back of the classroom to hear the Friday afternoon denouement and was so impressed, she instructed him to have amanuscript on her desk byMondaymorning for dispatch to someone she knew at Macmillan. “I got this wonderful letter back about amonth later saying: ‘DearMrMorpurgo, we liked your story and would like you to write four more. We will pay you £75.’ I thought tomyself: ‘Eat your heart out, Roald Dahl.’ I loved doing it and someone was payingme to do it, which was wonderful.” Famouslymentored by a pair of literary giants – playwright Sean Ra erty and poet TedHughes, the latter of whom befriended himwhen the two became neighbours in Devon in the 70s. Michael, now 78, has since published almost 140 books and counting, including Private Peaceful, again set in the wartime trenches; The Butterfly Lion, drawing on his experience of boarding school life; and Best Mates, about a champion racing greyhound looking for a forever home, all for children. In 2018, he was knighted for his work. A good story should, he reflects, both teach and transport. “If you read a book when you’re young and you love it, you get to know the people and can empathise with the people. So if you’re young and there’s an old person in the book, you can begin to understand what it is like to be old; if you are a boy, you can imagine, if the character is female, what it is like to be female. “If you live in a tower block in Birmingham and you are reading a book and it’s about the countryside, you can hear the birds singing, you know? All you’ve seen fromyour tower block probably is a pigeon, walking up and down the balcony, but read a book about an elephant that’s set in Asia and you don’t need to get in a jet to go there – a child will go there on her or his own.” Of all the stories he has written, Michael says the charity he helms with Clare, Farms for City Children, is “without doubt the best, because it happens to be true and it started [getting on LIFE OF LITERATURE Michael Morpurgo’s new book There Once is a Queen (main); War Horse (below left); with The Duchess of Cambridge (below); receiving his knighthood in 2018 (bottom) Five thousand copies of There Once is a Queen have been given to libraries in the UK and Northern Ireland by HarperCollins and The Reading Agency. Michael and Clare’s three children are all named after Shakespearian characters: Sebastian, Horatio and Rosalind. Michael and Clare now have eight grandchildren. Midway through lockdown, Michael was asked to write 15 poems for a new recording of Camille Saint-Saëns’ Carnival of the Animals by the Kanneh-Mason family. Dominic Fyfe of Decca Records chose Michael because, decades ago as a schoolboy, he took a Farms for City Children trip and never forgot it. ON THE RECORD ‘People ask why I write such sad stories. There’s no point writing unless you tell the truth, and the truth is, as I was growing up, there was a lot of sadness’ for] 50 years ago and is still going... That’s a really long story, as long as Tolstoy!” Founded in 1976, initially funded by Clare’s inheritance fromher father, Sir Allen Lane of Penguin publishing, it provides stays for thousands of children every year, either at theMorpurgos’ home farm in Devon or at sister sites in Wales and Gloucestershire. “Why do I think it’s our best book? I think there’s something very similar about reading a book, going to a play, seeing a ballet and spending a week in the countryside for the first time,” concludesMichael. “All aremoments when extraordinary things happen, things you’ve never seen before. They open your minds and open your hearts. And they are life changing.” There Once is a Queen byMichael Morpurgo is out now in hardback (HarperCollins Children’s Books) Photography: Michael Foreman, Getty Images

17 26 MAY 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Platinum bake JohnWhaite’s gorgeous jelly & custard celebration cake p20 Party time Fruit & nut ti n stars inWill Torrent’s Jubilee afternoon tea p22 Forest finds Why our Essential Strawberries are the pick of the UK crop p26 Recipe writer: Will Torent, Photography: Tara Fisher, Food stylist: Troy Willis, Prop stylist: Wei Tang

26 MAY 202 2 18 FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Savings to savour This week, we’ve got some delicious ideas for the Platinum Jubilee weekend, including a fantastic cake from GBBO’s John Whaite – inspired by the traditional queen of puddings – and an indulgent afternoon tea from Will Torrent, one of the chefs in our food innovation team. It’s my third Jubilee year here at Waitrose, and there’s always been one classic favourite we had to have on the menu – coronation chicken. Each Jubilee year, we give the dish a new twist, and this time, we set Will a challenge – could he make a convincing version without chicken? I couldn’t believe it when I tasted the result, made with king oyster mushrooms – it’s absolutely delicious, and the mushrooms really do have the texture of chicken. Give it a try! ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Smashed cucumber & beef noodle salad Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 15 minutes 1 tbsp low sodium soy sauce 3 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Chinese Rice Vinegar 2 tsp toasted sesame oil 2 tsp Essential Pure Clear Honey 1 large Essential Cucumber, halved lengthways 4 blocks wholewheat noodles 4 Essential Salad Onions, änely sliced 2 tsp sesame seeds 2 tsp Chinese äve spice 4 tbsp cornåour 2 x 230g packs Essential British Beef Rump Steak, cut into strips ½ tbsp Essential Vegetable Oil 1-2 tsp Lee Kum Kee Chiu Chow Chilli Oil (optional) 1 Whisk the soy, vinegar, sesame oil and honey in a bowl. Scrape the seeds from the cucumber with a spoon, then place each ½, cut-side down, on a board. Bash with a rolling pin until cracked all over, then chop. Toss in the dressing and set aside. 2 Cook the noodles according to pack instructions, then drain and rinse under cold water to stop them cooking. Add to the cucumber with the salad onions and mix well. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry wok, stirring until golden. 3 Mix the äve spice and cornåour in a bowl, then season. Coat the beef in the åour mix. Heat ½ the vegetable oil in the wok, then add ½ the beef to the pan and fry for 4-6 minutes, until golden. Set aside. Repeat with the remaining oil and beef, then return the ärst batch to the pan to heat through. Plate up the cucumber and noodles, top with the beef and sprinkle over more sesame seeds and chilli oil, if using. Per serving 3116kJ/741kcals/21g fat/1.3g saturated fat/98g carbs/8.1g sugars/11g äbre/34g protein/1.8g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day High in protein Vegetable tacos with quick-pickled onion, black beans & feta Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes ½ small Essential Red Onion, sliced into rounds 2 unwaxed Essential Limes, zest of 1, juice of both 1 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 110g pack äne asparagus, cut into thirds 200g Essential Cup Mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ tsp ground cumin 400g can black beans, drained and rinsed ½ tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Chipotle Paste 2 tbsp Essential Soured Cream 4 Gran Luchito Soft Taco Wraps 30g Essential Feta 1 Put the onions in a bowl, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, pour over the lime juice and set aside to pickle. Heat ½ the oil in a frying pan over a high heat and add the asparagus. Season and cook for 2-3 minutes, shaking the pan, until starting to brown. Transfer to a plate. 2 Return the pan to the heat until hot. Add the mushrooms and spread out in an even layer. Cook for 2 minutes undisturbed, then stir every minute or so for 5-6 minutes, until golden and crisp. Reduce the heat, add the remaining oil, the garlic and cumin and stir for 2 minutes more. Return the asparagus to the pan to heat through. 3 In a small pan, mash the beans, then stir through the chipotle and soured cream. Stir over a low heat, season, then mix in the lime juice used to pickle the onion. Meanwhile, heat the tacos according to pack instructions. Divide the beans between the tacos then top with the veg, pickled onion, crumbled feta and lime zest. V Per serving 2026kJ/483kcals/19g fat/5.3g saturated fat/52g carbs/5.1g sugars/11g äbre/20g protein/1.4g salt/ source of äbre 3 of your 5 a day Cook’s tip If you have time, prepare the cucumber up to 1 day in advance to marinate and take on the åavours of the dressing. Store in the fridge in an airtight container. Cook’s tip To speed this up further, use a pouch of readymade spicy refried beans or use canned beans, cooked in a little of the water they come in, and mash until creamy.

19 26 MAY 202 2 Looking to save money on your food bills without sacrificing any of the flavour? The Weekend food team have created these simple and delicious midweek meals – all making the most of our great value, great quality Essential range. Enjoy! Cook’s tip This recipe would work well with other omega 3-rich canned boneless äsh, such as mackerel or salmon. Omega 3 contributes to the normal function of the heart. Cook’s tip To mellow the taste of raw red onion, put the slices in a bowl and cover with cold water. Soak for 10 minutes before draining thoroughly and adding to the salad. Cook’s tip For added protein, stir a can of drained, Essential Lentils through the curry and allow to thoroughly heat through before serving. Sardine fish cakes with fennel, raisin & pine nut salad Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 10 minutes 30g Essential Raisins 2 x 85g cans Essential Sardines In Olive Oil, drained 20g Cooks’ Ingredients Panko Breadcrumbs ¼-½ tsp cayenne pepper, to taste ½ x 25g pack åat leaf parsley, most leaves änely chopped, a few torn ½ unwaxed Essential Lemon, zest and juice 1 tbsp Essential Fat Free Greek Style Yogurt 1 Essential White Egg, beaten 2 tsp Essential Olive Oil 1 tbsp pine nuts 1 bulb fennel 1 Cover the raisins with justboiled water and set aside. Put the sardines in a bowl and mash with a fork. Tip in the breadcrumbs, cayenne, änely chopped parsley, lemon zest, yogurt, egg and some seasoning and stir together until well combined. Divide the mixture into 4 and shape into patties. 2 Heat 1 tsp oil in a large frying pan. Add the patties and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side, until golden. When the cakes are almost ready, scatter the pine nuts into the pan and let them toast for 2 minutes, or until golden. 3 Meanwhile, änely slice the fennel using a mandolin or a sharp knife, reserving the fronds. Drain the raisins and toss in a large bowl with the fennel, fennel fronds, remaining oil, lemon juice, toasted pine nuts and torn parsley. Season and serve with the äsh cakes. Per serving 1511kJ/362kcals/21g fat/3.9g saturated fat/20g carbs/12g sugars/3.2g äbre/21g protein/1.4g salt/1330mg omega 3/1 of your 5 a day High in omega 3 Tikka chicken skewers with tomato salad, rice & yogurt Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes + soaking Cook 15 minutes 200g Essential Basmati Rice, rinsed until the water runs clear 60g pack tikka marinade 150g Essential Natural Yogurt 8 Essential British Chicken Thigh Fillets, cut into chunks 3 large Essential Tomatoes, chopped 1 small Essential Red Onion, änely sliced 1 green chilli, änely chopped (deseeded if liked) 25g pack coriander, roughly chopped 1 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Chaat Masala 1 Essential Lemon, juice 1 Preheat the grill to high and soak 8 wooden skewers in cold water, or use metal ones. Line a baking tray with foil. Cook the rice according to pack instructions. Put the marinade in a large bowl and combine with 50g of the yogurt. Add the chicken and mix until thoroughly coated. 2 Thread the chicken onto the skewers, put onto the tray and grill for 15 minutes, turning halfway through, or until the chicken is cooked, the juices run clear and there is no pink meat. 3 Meanwhile, make the salad by combining the tomatoes, onion, chilli, coriander, chaat masala and lemon juice. Season and serve alongside the chicken skewers with the rice and the remaining yogurt. Per serving 1808kJ/430kcals/15g fat/4.9g saturated fat/40g carbs/6.4g sugars/3.2g äbre/32g protein/1.1g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Low in saturated fat Tomato & green bean curry with flatbreads Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 30 minutes ½ tbsp Essential Vegetable Oil 1 Essential Onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 tbsp curry powder ½ tsp ground turmeric 15 curry leaves, or 1 tsp dried 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds 300g Essential Cherry Tomatoes 40ml Essential Coconut Cream 300g Essential Round Beans, trimmed and cut into thirds 2 Crosta & Mollica Wholeblend Piadina Flatbreads or Essential Wholemeal Tortilla Wraps 1 Heat the oil in a large heavybased saucepan and fry the onion for 10 minutes until soft and translucent – you may need to pour in a little water if it starts to catch. 2 Add the garlic, curry powder and turmeric and fry for a further 2-3 minutes, splashing in a little more water if needed. Add the curry leaves and mustard seeds until the seeds start to pop. 3 Tip in the tomatoes and cook, covered, over a low heat for 4-5 minutes until they start to break down, then add the coconut cream and 4 tbsp water. Add the green beans, then season. Cover with a lid and cook over a low heat for a further 8-10 minutes, until the beans are tender. Heat the åatbreads or wraps according to pack instructions and serve alongside the curry. V Per serving 1876kJ/448kcals/ 18g fat/5.9g saturated fat/51g carbs/ 15g sugars/14g äbre/13g protein/ 1.2g salt/2 of your 5 a day/vegan High in äbre Recipe writer: Sophie Pryn, Photography: Hannah Hughes, Food stylist: Lizzie Harris, Prop stylist: Wei Tang

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