FREE 19 May 2022 WEEKENDSPECIAL Your expert guide to summer serves SPOTL IGHT ON GIN JARVIS COCKER Pulp frontman’s memoir inspired by loft clear out p10 OFFERS Great savings on selected Taste of the Med treats p50 GIN SPECIAL Get in the mix with our 12-page supplement OUT TO IMPRESS Perfect pastries in Bake O : The Professionals p9 The golden touch Martha Collison creates a buzz with six spectacular recipes using honey, including these butter shortbread cookies, p25
19 MAY 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS If ever you fancy triggering a spat on social media, express your sandwich preferences. Focaccia, cry some. Sliced white, say others. Bap! Bun! Baguette! Discussion of the relative merits of condiments – ketchup, brown sauce, mustard, pickles, chutney, mayo, slaw – can set the longest threads unravelling. Hours of argument about best fillings will likely leave that matter unresolved too. JimWinship does his best to settle things. The founder of the British Sandwich &Food to Go Association (BSA) knows the world of the UK’s quick-fix lunchtime food better than most. “It’s always ham, cheese, chicken, or eggmayo,” he says, ahead of British Sandwich Week (22-28May) when sandwiches in all their various forms will be celebrated. “They are the favourite fillings. We are conservative. “Bacon breakfast sandwiches were charging ahead in 2019 until we stopped going to o ces,” adds Jim. “But I think they’ll come back strong as themarket recovers.” Picking up a bacon roll and co ee on the way to work is a habit he predicts won’t be forgotten; nor the lockdown-fuelled appeal of home delivery, if working fromhome is the new normal. Despite sti competition, around 72% of our lunchtime spending still goes on sandwiches, says the BSA, and Jimexpects that by the end of the year the sector, pummelled by the pandemic, will have recovered to 2019 levels, when we consumed three billion a year, spending some £8 billion. “It’s convenience,” says Jim. “Sandwiches fit our lifestyle. They’re reasonably healthy too, there’s amix of carbs, vegetables and protein in one pack.” Value is a factor, though the price will inevitably rise as ingredient and operating cost hikes bite businesses. So what makes a brilliant sandwich? At waitrose.com, the chilli cheese sourdough toastie is themost searched for recipe this year. The combination of grated Cheddar and Gruyère and deseeded red chilli oozing out fromNo.1 White Sourdough, is as much about the filler as the bread. For David Gingell (below), founder of Big Jo Bakery in north London, it has to start with “good bread made with the best flour”. He usesWildfarmed flour, stone-milled fromwheat grown with care for soil health and biodiversity; it’s finding favour with many top bakers. Big Jo’s bestseller? “Egg mayonnaise with watercress. It’s a classic for a reason,” says David. “But a favourite is a simple jamon and cornichon, made with good quality salted butter and nicemustard.” Chef Michel Roux Jr might approve – during a trip to Paris for the BBC’s Remarkable Places to Eat, Michel and celebritymaître d’ Fred Sirieix lunch on classic jambon-beurre baguettes. The bread was fromGosselin, baker to the French president, spread with lightly salted Bordier Cornwall check out Fresh from the Sea in Port Isaac. Owner CalumGreenhalgh brings crab – spider crab too as the season now begins – fromhis boat up to the shop where it’s cooked, prepped, and crammed between slices of wholemeal bread to order. Like Best Dressed Crab, it’s true to its name. As for sandwich spats, just ask food writer and author Felicity Cloake. Her new book about British breakfasts, Red Sauce Brown Sauce sent The Daily Star into outrage by suggesting that the nation’s beloved bacon sandwich could work withmarmalade. It was, the paper’s front page screamed, a ‘bacon butty horror’. Sandwiches and everything to do with themdo indeed divide opinion. Why Britain is still a nation of sandwich lovers We consume almost three billion of them a year, ensuring their ranking as our quick-fix meal choice. Tessa Allingham goes in search of the ultimate bread options and fillers Normandy butter, generous amounts of French ham, and gherkins. “A jambon-beurre, when it’s made properly, with great ingredients, I tell you, it is ameal fit for kings,” saidMichel. Fred agreed. East London bakery The Dusty Knuckle turns sandwich-making into a culinary art – how about vegan aubergine katsu in homemade curry sauce with pickled carrot and daikon, or charred celeriac, Lincolnshire poacher cheese and a fried egg on toasted focaccia? Learn the tricks of their trade in their new cookbook, The Dusty Knuckle (Quadrille). In themood for seafood? Can there be any debate that a fish finger sandwich is best between two slices of buttered white bread, one slathered in tartare sauce? If you’re on the Isle of Wight, Best Dressed Crab at Bembridge sells a crab sandwich that is a locals’ favourite. In OOZING FLAVOUR A charred celeriac, Lincolnshire cheese and fried egg sandwich from The Dusty Knuckle (above); Big Jo Bakery’s jamon and cornichon ( left); Waitrose’s cheese chilli toastie ( far left) ‘Sandwiches fit our lifestyle. They’re reasonably healthy too, there’s a mix of carbs, vegetables and protein’ The chilli cheese sourdough toasted sandwich recipe is at waitrose.com/cheesetoastie Cover photography: Photography: Andrew Burton, Food stylist: Troy Willis, Prop stylist: Wei Tang, Shutterstock, Love Productions Photography: Matt Russell, Patricia Niven, Cristian Barnett, Getty Images, Kim Lightbody, Shutterstock
19 MAY 202 2 3 SWEET SENSATIONS A new voice in cookery writing makes her debut this month with The Last Bite, a book that promises ‘a whole new approach to making desserts’. Anna Higham, executive pastry chef at London restaurant The River Café, encourages readers to taste, season and cook desserts with their senses to let seasonal fruits shine. CHICKS ON CAMERA Now’s the time to get a bird’s-eye view of osprey, barn owl, pufän and peregrine falcon chicks hatching and being cared for by their parents via live webcams hidden near their nests. See wildlifetrusts.org/webcams, or visit rspb.org.uk/coquetlive from 31 May to watch pufän chicks hatch on Northumberland’s Coquet Island. WE HAVE LIFT OFF Two ‘cubesats’ will be sent into space from Cornwall’s Newquay Airport this summer, a ärst satellite launch from British soil. The mission will see the shoebox-sized satellites carried on Virgin Orbit’s LauncherOne rocket, which takes off horizontally from a modiäed Boeing 747 jet. Orbiting 340 miles above Earth, the satellites will support the Ministry of Defence’s science and technology activities. BE A PLANT COLLECTOR Horticultural charity Plant Heritage (plantheritage.org.uk) will launch its Missing Genera campaign at Chelsea Flower Show (24-28 May), calling for volunteers to protect plants at risk of being lost, like the open bell-shaped Campanula (below). Anyone can start a ‘living library’ to ensure plants don’t disappear once out of fashion. Chelsea Flower Show preview, p44. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of uplifting stories A rescue package of £16million has been pledged byWaitrose to help struggling British pig farmers. The industry has faced two years of disruption, caused by Brexit and the pandemic, which caused labour shortages and a drop in pork exports. Further hit by soaring production costs, many farmers are leaving the industry and thousands of pigs are being culled. “We’ve been farming pigs for 30 years and this has been the scariest time we’ve faced,” says RobMutimer, a pig farmer andWaitrose supplier fromSwannington, Norfolk. “The main problem is feed, which accounts for 70%of production costs. “It’s a blend of oils, cereal and protein, all of which are going up in price. Most of the oil used to come fromUkraine. The remaining costs – labour, fuel and electricity – have gone up significantly, too.” As a result of theWaitrose investment, the price the retailer pays its pig farmers will be enough to cover the increased costs, o ering financial security to avoid thembeing forced out of the sector. “This is a direct response to some of the most challenging conditions the pig sector has ever faced,” says James Bailey, Partner andWaitrose executive director. “It is not only the right thing to do, it will also ensure we continue to pay our farmers WEEKEND SNAPSHOT How to bee-friendly A third of the world’s food production depends on bees, so they very much deserve their own day. World Bee Day, which takes place on 20 May every year, is a chance to celebrate these precious pollinators and remind ourselves how we can help them to thrive. In our gardens and green spaces, we can plant åowers that are rich in pollen and nectar, such as alliums and poppies. We should also avoid chemicals, such as weed-killers, and leave areas of long grass to åower. a fair price, whilemaintaining our quality and high welfare standards.” All of Waitrose’s pork is British and outdoor bred, meaning its piglets are born in the fresh air and its breeding sows spend their lives outside. It was the first retailer tomake this commitment and has held the Compassion inWorld Farming’s Good Pig award since its creation in 2012. “I’mdelighted to seeWaitrose further bolstering its support for British pork farmers with this significant investment,” says Victoria Prentis, minister for farming, fisheries and food at Defra. “Never has there been a time when it’s neededmore.” Anna Shepard Beleaguered pig farmers get a £16m helping hand SUPPORT PACKAGE Labour shortages, a drop in exports and soaring costs are among the big issues facing pig farmers
5 19 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart WEEK 19: COUNTING OUR PLASTIC It’s the small bags of crisps that let us down. Despitemy attempts to put sandwiches in reusable paper bags and fobmy children o with fruit as snacks, our family still generates 14 small crisp and popcorn bags in one week. I know this because we have just taken part in The Big Plastic Count, the biggest investigation into plastic waste, in which households are encouraged to collect every piece of plastic they use for one week. The o cial count continues until 22May, but we did it earlier. It’s not too late to join now, even if you submit your results a few days late –more than 140,000 UK households have signed up so far. We collect our plastic in a cardboard box, then tip it onto the floor at the end of the week to sort into categories and tick boxes on the tally sheet. This data is sent o to be crunched, which will give us a percentage breakdown, including information about what will happen to each category. Before the week begins, we discuss what we’re collecting, which is plastic that normally goes to landfill and stu headed for the recycling bin. If you use a plastic item when you’re away fromhome, you bring that back, too. Being part of a citizen science project like this is exciting, as is discovering our household plastic footprint. But for me, it’s the way that collecting it makes youmore mindful about consumer choices that’s the biggest win. For my daughter, it’s the chance to think about how to reuse plastic. We now have a stash of empty popcorn bags which she is determined to repurpose as sandwich bags, which is actually not a bad idea. thebigplasticcount.com My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD Sex Pistols. Safety pins, black bin liners and spiky hair. It was a look designed to shock and, 45 years on, the image remains striking and vivid. The song that assured the punk band’s legendary status, God Save The Queen, has been reissued to coincide withHerMajesty The Queen’s PlatinumJubilee and we played a short burst on TheWorld Tonight on BBC Radio 4 this week. At the time of its original release, there was an enormous furore and the track was banned by the BBC, although that didn’t stop it from reaching number two in the charts. While it’s a bit noisy for a Tuesday night after 10pm, I foundmyself humming along, wrapped in a comforting glow of nostalgia. I’mpretty certain that wasn’t what the band intended. I was still at primary school in 1977, but looking back, it was an exciting year to be enticed into the world of popular culture. The death of Elvis Presley was the first time I felt that strange sense of loss you experience with a celebrity bereavement. The King dominated the airwaves for days afterwards and my brothers and I dutifully caught the bus toWoolworths and bought a greatest hits album, that’s no doubt still lurking in one of our vinyl collections. There was also the agonising wait for the release of StarWars. Although the Americans got to meet Darth Vader in the summer, here in Blighty, most of us who were desperate to visit a galaxy, far far away, didn’t even get to queue for tickets until the start of the new year. How did we cope? Celebrating The Queen’s Silver Jubilee probably helped. Do you remember those special coins? And the piles of commemorativemugs, plates, spoons and who knows what else?We lived on amain road so there was no possibility of a street party but I think theremay have been bunting and sandwiches in the playground at school. My sentimentality about the past is a trait that’s getting worse with age. But then, working in news, where every day brings a new drama and often a new horror, the past can feel like a refuge, especially if you carefully choose which bits to remember. If that sentencemakes you worry that I have quite a lot in common with your average dictator, I assure you, life has a way of crashing throughmy carefully constructed version of my personal history. Just recently, I was chatting to someone at a party who I had met briefly a few times before. As the conversation progressed, it became apparent we were about the same age and had gone to the same school. I laughed and said it was funny that we didn’t remember each other. I said it more than once. Several times, in fact. Eventually, he politely interjected and said he definitely rememberedme. We bothmoved swiftly on and I still cringe at thememory. More positively, a friend tookme to a performance by the Royal College of Music’s Jazz Orchestra. They were amazing and the atmosphere was electric. Their youthful energy seemed to reflect the infinite possibilities that lay ahead for a bunch of talentedmusicians at the beginning of their careers. I just wish I could tell them to take copious notes – the edit button on the track we call memory is definitely faulty. I’m seeking refuge in the past from a world of drama and danger Illustration: Alex Green/Folioart MY WEEK Ritula Shah
6 19 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover j l “This isn’t the original title,” says Andy Baraghani of his book The Cook YouWant to Be. “While writing it, the book was called The Cook IWant to Be. But then I thought: ‘This isn’t about me. It’s about the lessons I’ve learned that I want to pass on to people.’ So I flipped the title to bring in the reader.” Andy has long been passionate about sharing his knowledge, not least during his six-year stint as senior food editor on influential USmagazine, Bon Appétit, where his tutorials helped the title’s YouTube channel attract sixmillion subscribers. This knowledge was hard-won, gleaned from some of America’s most prestigious restaurants, including NewYork’s Estela and California’s legendary Chez Panisse. His book features 120 ‘everyday recipes to impress’, frommeatymains such as shawarma-spiced lamb chops with pickles to veg dishes, including sweet-andsour caramelised squash with pistachio zaatar. Pasta recipes include bucatini with spicy cauliflower ragù and lemony breadcrumbs; salads include persimmons with torn burrata and fresh lemon; while a chapter on eggs features the Iranian herb omelette, kuku sabzi. For Andy, though, the title will be a success if readers don’t follow his recipes. “I’ve seen cookbooks where the author presents themselves as an authority figure, outlining recipes that must be followed step by step,” he says. “But what wouldmakeme happy is if readers try a new technique, or learn about an unfamiliar ingredient, or fuse two things together to create something new. I want to give people knowledge and confidence to find their own way in the kitchen and to discover the kind of cook they want to be.” So what kind of cook is Andy? “Curious,” he says. “I’m 32. I’ve been cooking professionally since I was 16 – but I have somuchmore to learn. That’s what propelsme.” His love of food was ignited by his parents, who came to the US from Iran in 1977, two years before revolution in their homelandmade their stay in the San Francisco Bay area permanent. “I grew up within a very specific cuisine,” Andy recalls. “We lived in a small house and there would always be plenty of people there. I recall piles of fava beans being shelled andmountains of herbs being plucked and chopped for di erent dishes.” These included khoresh, the herb-laden Persian stews which come in a various versions, from lamb and quince to chicken, walnut and pomegranatemolasses. Then there was Andy’s favourite sa ron-infused rice, with its crusty base, the tahdig. “It became a joke in our family. I’d always arrange the tahdig shards onmy plate to look like there were fewer of them, in the hope of being givenmore.” At two full pages, Andy’s tahdig recipe is the longest in the book, though it contains only five ingredients. “There’s a lot of context to why this dish is the backbone of Iranian cuisine,” he explains. “It would be disrespectful tomymother, to the Iranian community and to everyone who wants to understand why this dish is so important if I didn’t include that detail. I refuse to sum it up in four easy steps!” When Andy decided to pursue a career in food, he looked beyond the tradition he grew up with. “I pushed it away because I was so familiar with it,” he recalls. “I wantedmore. I needed to understand regional Italian, French and Spanish food. I wanted tomove on to Chinese and Japanese.” His first catering forays were as a teenager, preparing dinner parties at the houses of family friends (“I wasn’t a businessman. I was just happy that people were covering the costs of these expensive groceries I was playing around with”). Then, aged 16, while finishing high school, he secured an internship to work weekends at a local restaurant. That local turned out to be pretty good. Opened by Beyond the comfort zone Andy Baraghani’s debut book tells of his lifelong love of food, rooted in the Iranian cooking of his family home and honed in some of America’s finest kitchens, writes Paul Dring ‘I want to give people knowledge and confidence to find their own way in the kitchen and to discover the kind of cook they want to be’ A recent headline hailed the arrival of ‘salad for breakfast’. It’s a new thing. A fashion. Celebrities are paving the way with their morning rocket and vinaigrette. Anyone for a quinoa and beetroot bowl? Dump your juicers and Nutribullets everyone – the salad spinner is in town! Well, well, well. This, is music tomy ears. Breakfast is my favouritemeal of the day. Never sweet, always savoury. My secret pleasure has been eating things that are clearly lunch and dinner at breakfast time. I’ll often have a couple of samosas. Quite frequently, a spinach roll. Maybe a chunk of cheese with a dollop of spicymayo on top. If there are leftovers from last night, I’ll be having those too – a slice of chicken and a few cold potatoes will do nicely with a dash of sriracha. Though I draw the line at soup. It’s always seemed strange that we’ve had such a formal relationship with our savoury breakfasts. Across the UK, they’re prescriptive. We’ll happily be served bacon, sausages, hash browns and tomatoes on a plate, all carefully separated. If you put those all together, then you basically almost have a cottage pie – but you just never get o ered cottage pie for breakfast. Why not? I’d order it. Other cultures seemmuchmore flexible. There’s a Japanese café nearby that serves udonwith pork and a raw egg – they call it their EnglishBreakfast. InChina, your wontons, dumplings and buns are the same as you’d get later on in the day, with asmany savoury variations as sweet. An Indian breakfast can look just as glorious as a lunch or dinner. This is not an exhaustive spin of the globe, I know. But, at last, it appears we aremoving on. It’s not just the salad that’s leading the way to a brighter British brekkie. There’s savoury porridge too. Apparently, it’s a foodie thing! Not only is it appearing onmenus of the charcoal croissant-loving hipster brigade, but it’s the go-to dish for food goddess Andi Oliver. Shemakes her savoury porridge with chicken stock, chilli, fried onions and greens. If it’s good enough for Andi, it’s good enough for me. I haven’t often felt in stepwith theworld of food fashion, mostly arriving as everyone else leaves. So, far fromgreeting these dishes with derision, I findmyself wiping down the chopping board of cynicismand sharpening up the tomato knife of joy. Today’s breakfast is bacon and rocket porridge with onions and chilli flakes. Come breakfast dinewithme! ‘My secret pleasure has been eating things that are clearly for lunch or dinner at breakfast time’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover Photography: Graydon Herriott, Emma Fishman, Getty Images, Ruth Crafer
7 19 MAY 202 2 food activist AliceWaters in 1971, Chez Panisse o ered Californian diners something radical – a daily changing, no-choicemenu of rustic, French-style food that championed the produce of the state’s farmers, growers and winemakers. By the time Andy arrived, it was hugely influential, its farm-to-table ethos providing a template followed by restaurants across the globe. “Every day therewas an education,” he says. Advised not to pursue culinary school by a Chez Panisse chef, he learned on the job instead. Instruction beganwith onion prep andmoved through to choppingmirepoix, toasting spices, making stocks, jointing chicken andmaking pasta, his confidence growingwith each new skill. The influence of Chez Panisse is discernible inmany of the book’s recipes. It’s there in salads such as his orange, avocado and dates – “at Chez Panisse, I learned just how transformative large pieces of citrus can be to a salad,” he recalls. It’s there, too, in his crispy plum and pistachio cake – “amash-up of Marian Burros’s plum torte from The NewYork Times and Lindsey Shere’s famous almond cake fromChez Panisse.” This forms part of a puddings chapter featuring just five recipes. “I’ve always thought of myself as a savoury person,” he says. “But I hope, in the future, the dessert chapter will be the biggest. I truly do. Because that wouldmean I’ve gone further out of my comfort zone. I want everyone to do that, to go to that place where theymight not feel comfortable, both in and out of the kitchen. Because that’s usually when something wonderful happens.” home flavours Andy Baraghani (below) and his beloved tahdig ( left); orange, avocado and date salad (below); shawarmaspiced lamb chops with pickles (bottom left); Chez Panisse in California (bottom) The Cook YouWant to Be: Everyday Recipes to Impress (Ebury Press) by Andy Baraghani is out now This Is Not a Pity Memoir (John Murray) by Abi Morgan is out now. Interview: Emma Higginbotham 7 QUESTIONS WITH… AB I MORGAN The screenwriter and creator of The Split on bad films and excessive talking 1 Where do you live? In Stroud Green, north London, with my husband Jacob, children Jesse, 20, and Mabel, 18, and Styler the labradoodle. I love London because it’s a city of strangers. Everyone’s from everywhere else – it’s rare you meet a Londoner. 2 Describe your book, This Is Not a Pity Memoir, in one sentence Following Jacob’s collapse with a brain seizure, it’s the chaotic, crazy couple of years we have as he comes out of a coma and into a new world order where he no longer knows who I am, and we have to re-navigate our lives. 3 Best thing that’s happened this week? I laughed my head off at a really bad älm with Jacob. It was just brilliant to be in the cinema and really enjoy how bad it was together. It’s been a long time since we’ve been able to do that. 4 Where would you go in a time machine? The period of Jane Austen looked fun. Who doesn’t love a fan and an empire-line dress? And it’s when they discovered hot chocolate and åirting, both of which I quite like. 5 Are you a good cook? I’m a damn good cook, and cooking has kept me sane. When bad things happen, the one thing I love is the simplicity of making a meal. 6 Alas, The Split has änished. Are rumours of a spin-off true? I always conceived the show as three series, but as a creative team, we’d love to änd some way to keep the joy and ethos going. No news yet, but watch this space. 7 What would little Abi think of grown-up Abi? She’d say: “Stop talking so much! I thought you were going to get elegant and digniäed.”
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9 19 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS “Some of the flavour combinations are absolutely insane,” reveals Liam. Bacon mousse being a case in point. “It was so good,” he enthuses. “You have that whole sweet and salty flavour combination and it melted in your mouth.” His co-host wasn’t so sure. “Bacon and cake!” Stacey exclaims. “I couldn’t get my head around it. No disrespect to the chefs… I don’t have a very elegant palate. I was not ready for amousse cake with a smoky bacon aftertaste.” Veggies, including asparagus, parsnips and mushrooms, unexpectedly loomed large in sweet bakes. “They were very experimental,” says Liamof the teams. “But a lot of vegetables have an underlying sweet note. One teamput sweetcorn in their dessert. That was delicious. Definitely one of themost obscure flavours we tried.” Ironically, Stacey admits to playing truant from food tech class at school. “I enjoyed it – it wasn’t likemaths, English and science – but there was always something happening at the park,” she laughs. Tasting everything in the Bake O : Professionals kitchen has, however, been an education. Quizzing Liam (“he’s my baking Yoda, my encyclopedia”), similarly so and Stacey intends tomake treats such as praline and white chocolate ganache at home. The LooseWomen panellist found her passion for the show catching, too. “They madememy own Tupperware box – it had Stacey’s Bakes on it,” she grins. “I’d take it home tomy kids to show themwhat they’d beenmaking. Mymiddle son, Leighton, loves baking and watches Junior Bake O . And there was a dinosaur week whichmy two-year-old, Rex, was over themoon about. I took home little dinos, claws, bones. I’ve still got bits of sugar inmy kitchen the kids won’t eat because they looked so good.” Stacey Solomon didn’t have to be asked twice to become the new co-host of Bake O : The Professionals. A longtime fan of the highly skilled baking show, which returns to Channel 4 for a seventh series, she couldn’t wait to get stuck in alongside fellowhost LiamCharles. And who could blame her? With pastry chefs at the pinnacle of their craft, the job sounds less like hard work, more like access to an all-you-can-eat sweet trolley. “We still had to learn some lines!” protests the 32-year-old, who replaces comedian Tom Allen. “It’s been a dream job, because I say: ‘Ready, steady, go!’, then eat all day. I was in awe. I was like: ‘Wow! I cannot believe what I’mwitnessing.’ I didn’t appreciate the level of skill it takes. And the smells… ohmy gosh. I tasted everything. I must have been a stone heavier by the time I’d finished.” That’s a small price to pay when you see the lengths to which the chefs go to impress judges Benoit Blin and Cherish Finden. Benoit (chef-pâtissier at Raymond Blanc’s LeManoir aux Quat’Saisons) and Cherish (executive pastry chef at the Pan Pacific LondonHotel) have exacting standards. And the calibre of creations is – as ever – extraordinary. “They seem to get better and better,” says co-host and former Great British Bake O contestant Liam. Twelve pastry chef pairs frompâtisseries and hotels as well as a wedding cakemaker compete over 10 weeks. First of the weekly challenges is tomakeminiatures for afternoon tea. Second is to create a banquet showpiece. Episode one sees themmake strawberry fraisiers, then reinvent the treacle tart, while future themes include Tales of the High Seas, Land of the Dinosaurs and Ancient Mythology. Sweet skills As hit reality show Bake O : The Professionals returns, Liam Charles and new co-host Stacey Solomon reveal the inventive ingredients of this year’s passionate pâtissiers. Katherine Hassell reports ‘I was in awe. I didn’t appreciate the level of skill it takes. And the smells… oh my gosh. I tasted everything’ aprons on Bake O : The Professionals returns with Liam Charles, Benoit Blin, Cherish Finden and new co-host Stacey Solomon ( left); this year’s contestants (below) Bake O : The Professionals returns to Channel 4 on Tuesday (24May) at 8pm Photography: Love Productions
10 19 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Loft in music Jarvis Cocker tells Paul Kirkley how an attic clear out inspired the year’s most original pop memoir
11 19 MAY 202 2 In 1981, a teenage Jarvis Cocker was pictured in the She eld Star holding a plastic tortoise. The photoshoot, in Jarvis’s mum’s living room, was to celebrate his band Pulp being invited down to London to record a session for John Peel’s legendary BBCRadio One show. But it was only when he came across the photograph again four decades later that Jarvis fully appreciated its symbolism. “I looked and thought: ‘What am I holding?’” the now-58year-old tells us fromhis home in Shepherd’s Bush. “And then I realised it was a tortoise. Which is crazy – how could I have known at the time I was destined for life in the slow lane?” Pulp would indeed take the long way round to glory, eventually finding success during the Britpop goldrush of themid-90s, when the nation finally – and enthusiastically – embraced Jarvis’s witty, waspish tales of furtive voyeurs, adolescent yearnings among the woodchip wallpaper and seedy trysts in Bri-Nylon sheets. Disinterred froma crawlspace at the end of his attic, the tortoise picture is one of many treasures that form the basis of Jarvis’s terrific new book, Good Pop, Bad Pop – an account of his formative years that’s almost certainly the first showbiz memoir by way of loft clearance. Some artefacts – like the school exercise book in which the 15-year-old Jarvis outlined his surprisingly fully formed manifesto for Pulp’s world domination (“my Dead Sea Scrolls”) – are the stu of proper pop archaeology. But, for Jarvis, the junk and bric-a-brac – the stubs of Imperial Leather soap and piles of broken plastic novelties – are just as important. From the name Pulp to a fashion sense forged rummaging through local Methodist jumble sales, he has a lifelong fascination with ‘society’s cast-o s’ andmisfits – of finding art and poetry in ‘things other people throw away’. “Maybe that’s why I’ve held on to all this stu ,” hemuses. “There are things in there I’ve been carting around ever since I left home – which is a long time ago now.” Another photo in the book shows Jarvis, aged seven, surrounded by his immediate family – his mum, grandma, sister and two aunts. With his dadMac having left for a new life in Australia that year, it was an almost exclusively feminine environment (even the cat, Nif, was female). Did that inevitably shape his personality? “Totally,” he says. “For example, when I got to puberty, and started wanting to learn about sex and stu , I had to do it all through eavesdropping on their conversations. I was learning it all completely froma woman’s point of view.” His mother Christine had dropped out of a fine art degree when she became pregnant with Jarvis – so, althoughmoney was tight, it was arguably amore bohemian household than was the norm for working-class She eld at the time. “There was a bohemian edge to it, I guess,” says Jarvis, cautiously. “My father left a lot of books, which was important. I spent a lot of time climbing onto the bookshelf to pick one.” Another legacy of his parents’ artistic side is his name, which he hated somuch he used to pretend he was called John. (It didn’t help that, for a while, his mumalso insisted on sending him to school in lederhosen, a ‘gift’ fromhis uncle John’s German in-laws.) “I’ve askedmymumabout the name, and never really got to the bottomof it,” he says. “But I really hated it as a child, I thought it was cruel. That’s why, whenmy son Albert was born [in 2003, to his then wife, French fashion stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington], I was determined he’d have a normal name.” It was only when punk came along that young Jarvis fully embraced his moniker. “You had all thesemade-up names like Johnny Rotten and JohnnyMoped,” he says. “And I just thought: ‘Well I’ve already got a weird name…’” Punk changed his life in somany ways. “It happened at the ideal time for me. I was thinking: ‘I want to be a creative person, how do I do it?’ And then punk came along and said: ‘Don’t worry about learning to play an instrument or anything like that – just get on with it.’ That was a brilliant bit of timing, because it gaveme permission to join in.” When that first Peel session failed to translate into pop stardom, Jarvis spent much of the next decade ‘sleeping through’ Thatcher’s Britain on the dole in She eld. (Technically it was supplementary benefit, he notes – but “the dole just sounds more iconic”). After a long fallow period, in 1985 a re-energised Pulp emerged with a new line-up and a new single, ready for the band’s ‘glorious second coming’. At which point Jarvis, in an ill-fated bid to impress a girl, fell 20ft froman upstairs window, fracturing his pelvis, wrist and foot (‘Cocker comes a cropper’ ran the headline in the She eld Star). In the end, it proved to be something of a lucky break, as it was while convalescing in hospital that Jarvis resolved to writemore about the world and the people around him, refining his ‘magic formula’ for pop glory as: ‘ScottWalker + BarryWhite + Eurodisco + Gritty Northern Realism= The Future’. ‘You had these made-up names like Johnny Rotten and Johnny Moped. And I thought: “Well, I’ve already got a weird name”’ Photography: Dean Chalkley/Guardian/eyevine
WORK OUT YOUR WAY From £30.75 per month. 0% APR Interest Free Credit. Interest Free Credit available over 12 months. 0% APR Representative. Subject to status. Terms and conditions apply.* Click and collect available at Waitrose. Find out more by visiting johnlewis.com *John Lewis PLC, 171 Victoria Street, London SW1E 5NN, is a Credit Broker (Register No. 724309) for the purpose of introducing the credit provided by Creation Consumer Finance Limited, Wellington Buildings, 2-4 Wellington Street, Belfast BT1 6HT (Register No. 311518). Both are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Credit is available subject to status to UK residents aged 18 or over.
13 19 MAY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS This love of disco, forged in the neon nightlife of 80s She eld, was one area in which Jarvis diverged from his fellow punks – while they were obsessed with ‘keeping it real’, for him, “pop had nothing to do with reality – it was an improvement on reality”. “When I was a kid, I thought that if you became famous it meant you would live inside the telly,” he explains. “And when I got older, something of that idea was still there – that it would be like living in a di erent dimension, a di erent realm. But that can take you into some dangerous places, when you think something artificial is better than reality.” This is a lesson Jarvis would learn the hard way when, after those long, agonising years in the slow lane, he finally got his wish, and became a bona fide pop superstar. Though the book ends in the late 80s (a second volumemay follow) Jarvis alludes to the coming hurricane when hementions ‘the song that mademy name’. That song, of course, being Pulp’s class anthem Common People, the withering tale of a trustafarian poverty tourist, inspired by a girl Jarvis hadmet while studying fine art and filmat London’s St Martin’s College. Within amonth of the song’s release, Pulp were parachuted into Glastonbury’s Saturday headline slot. “It was the very first concert we’d played after Common People became a hit,” recalls Jarvis. “Talk about a Harrier Jump Jet leap to fame. I think the previous year we’d played at 2pm. Themoment when we played Common People and everyone was singing it back… I don’t think I’ll ever have an experience like that again. It was amagical moment.” But themagic wouldn’t last. Within a couple of years, Jarvis had grown weary of the whole Britpop circus – he still can’t bring himself to use the Bword – and life in the white-hot glare of fame (complete withmovie star girlfriend, Chloë Sevigny) suddenly felt less like an escape than a trap. Then there was theMichael Jackson incident. Incensed by Jackson’s faux-messianic performance at the 1996 Brit Awards, Jarvis famously invaded the stage, and wiggled his bottomat the self-proclaimed King of Pop. He was hauled o to be interviewed by the police, on suspicion of assault (even though there had been no physical contact with either Jackson or the children surrounding himon stage), while a slightly worse-for-wear BobMortimer called on his former career as a solicitor to o er legal representation. Thoughmost now remember the episode with amusement, Jarvis himself was traumatised by the accompanying furore, which he credits with contributing to a nervous breakdown. “I don’t really talk about that, because I don’t like to think I’m milking it for anything,” is all he’ll say today. “But yeah, it had a big impact onmy life. And not a particularly positive one.” If Pulp’s million-selling 1995 album Di erent Class is considered a high watermark of Britpop, then 1998’s anxious This Is Hardcore marked the start of a 30-year hangover, whichmost of themain players have spent trying to distance themselves from the whole thing. “We thought something a bit left-field and interesting was going to happen inmainstream culture,” says Jarvis. “Then it got hijacked by Tony Blair, and a few years later you’ve got Geri Halliwell in a Union Flag minidress. Then unfortunately RobbieWilliams happens, and you know it’s all over.” Jarvis has spent the two-and-a-half decades since shuttling between Paris, where Albert lives, and the London home he shares with his girlfriend, art director KimSion. During that time, he’s parlayed his reputation as one of pop’s most celebrated men of letters into an eclectic career taking in everything from solo records and a Sony Award-winning radio show to being an editor-at-large for Faber &Faber, and has even created an album of nature sounds for the National Trust. He’s guest edited Radio 4’s Today programme, appeared on Question Time and in a Harry Potter movie, and there’s an animated version of him inWes Anderson’s FantasticMr Fox adaptation. “I thinkmy life has tended to oscillate between two poles,” he reflects of his journey to this point. “There’s this idea of wanting to escape and be a spaceman or something, or escape into TVland or celeb-land. And then there are these bumps, these falls to Earth – like that fall from the window – where I realise: ‘Actually no, real life is where it’s at.’ I hope I’ve becomemore stable. I wear lead boots when I’mwalking down the street now. I can’t float o anymore.” Good Pop, Bad Pop: An Inventory by Jarvis Cocker (Penguin) is out on 26May PULP NON-FICTION “It was kind of accidental, really,” explains Jarvis of his autobiography via loft clearance. “I decided to have a clear out, and it gradually dawned on me that, if you put all these things I was pulling out in the right order, it would tell a story.” His dad, Mac Cocker, was a radio DJ and occasional actor who spent much of his life in Sydney. “I think kids will just accept whatever the environment is,” says Jarvis of life without a father around. “It was just an absence and it’s only as I’ve got older that I’ve realised that was quite unusual. I didn’t feel like I was missing out on anything at the time.” In 1996, Melody Maker declared Jarvis ‘the äfth most famous man in Britain’ – behind John Major, Frank Bruno, Will Carling and Michael Barrymore. ‘When I was a kid, I thought if you became famous it meant you would live inside the telly’ steel city stars Pulp’s 1998 band line-up of Mark Webber, Nick Banks, Jarvis Cocker, Steve Mackey and Candida Doyle (top); Jarvis, aged seven, at home with his mum, grandma, sister and aunts ( far right) Photography: Dean Chalkley/Guardian/eyevine, Getty Images
15 19 MAY 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Midweek magic Quick and easy dishes that taste amazing and cost you less p16 King of potatoes The annual race against time to produce Jersey Royals p20 Martha Collison Six fabulous recipes to enjoy if you’re sweet on honey p25
16 19 MAY 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Savings to savour Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. I always love it when one of our talented team takes a simple store-cupboard ingredient that we normally don’t look twice at, and shows us lots of new and interesting ways to use it. It’s something Martha Collison is good at, and this week (p25) she’s taken a fresh look at honey – one of the simplest foods there is – in sweet and savoury recipes. Honeycomb ice cream is something I’ve seen on a lot of restaurant menus, and Martha’s recipe makes it astonishingly easy (though do make sure to follow her tip on washing the saucepan). Her simple idea for chilliinfused honey is genius – I’ll be drizzling it on absolutely everything this summer. ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Steak, polenta & rojo sauce Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 15 minutes 200g Essential British Beef Rump Steak, excess fat removed 1 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 1 Essential Red Onion, änely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ tsp Bart Mediterranean Herbs 500ml pack Cooks’ Ingredients Vegetable Stock 1 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Sundried Tomato Paste 1 tbsp sherry vinegar 250g Essential Cherry Tomatoes, halved 100g polenta 15g Essential Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated 1 Lightly season the steak on both sides. Heat ½ tbsp of oil in a frying pan and fry the onion for 3 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for another minute. Add the herbs, 5 tbsp of the stock, tomato paste, sherry vinegar and tomatoes. Remove from the heat. 2 Bring the remaining stock to the boil in a saucepan and add the polenta. Cook, stirring for 5 minutes, until thickened and smooth. Stir in the cheese and plenty of seasoning, adding a little boiling water if the mixture is very thick. 3 Cook the tomato mixture for 1 minute to heat through. Spoon the polenta and tomatoes onto plates and keep warm. Wipe out the frying pan with kitchen paper, return to the heat and add the remaining oil. Fry the steak for 2 minutes on each side (for medium rare), or until browned all over. Leave to rest for 1-2 minutes, then thinly slice and serve over the tomatoes. Per serving 2335kJ/556kcals/10g fat/6g saturated fat/51g carbs/12g sugars/6g äbre/39g protein/0.9g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day/gluten free High in protein Aubergine, pepper & coconut curry with rice Serves 2 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 20 minutes 3 tsp Essential Vegetable Oil 1 Essential Aubergine, cut into bitesized chunks 1 Essential Onion, sliced 1 Romano pepper, sliced into rings 1 tsp garlic paste or purée 125g brown basmati rice 1 tsp mild or medium curry powder ½ tsp ground allspice 145ml Essential Reduced Fat Coconut Milk 1 tsp desiccated coconut ¼ x 25g pack coriander, leaves only 1 Heat 2 tsp oil in a nonstick frying pan, then add the aubergine and cook over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, or until golden and starting to soften. Remove from the pan, then add the remaining 1 tsp oil, the onions, peppers and garlic paste or purée. Fry for 3 minutes, or until the onions and peppers are starting to soften. 2 Cook the rice according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, return the aubergines to the onion pan and add the curry powder and allspice. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant. 3 Add the coconut milk, then simmer for 8-10 minutes, until the vegetables are tender (adding a splash of water if needed). Season. Serve the curry immediately, scattered with the desiccated coconut and coriander, and the rice alongside. V Per serving 1492kJ/357kcals/ 15g fat/6g saturated fat/44g carbs/ 12g sugars/10g äbre/6.3g protein/ 0.2g salt/2 of your 5 a day/vegan/ gluten free High in äbre Cook’s tip You can use any other lean Essential beef steak such as sirloin instead of the rump. If you prefer your steak cooked right through, increase the cooking time to 3-4 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the meat. Cook’s tip Coconut milk, both reduced-fat and regular, makes a brilliant standby for enriching all kinds of dishes without adding dairy. Put the leftovers from the can into ice cube trays and freeze. These can be dropped straight into curries, soups and smoothies, straight from the freezer.
17 19 MAY 202 2 Looking to save money on your food bills without sacrificing any of the flavour? The Weekend food team have created these simple and delicious midweek meals – all making the most of our great value, great quality Essential range. Enjoy! Cook’s tip Try this spiced tofu in a ‘vegeree’ (a vegetable kedgeree – see waitrose.com/recipes). Make the scramble as above. When the rice part is ready, wilt the spinach in the hot rice then toss the tofu through, änishing with the chilli. Scatter with nuts for added crunch and nutrients. Cook’s tip For a speedier version, omit the potatoes. Roast the salmon with the asparagus, also rubbed in a little oil and seasoned, for 15-20 minutes. Serve with Essential Couscous (prepared according to pack instructions) and änish with the parsley plus a spoonful of Essential Low Fat Greek Style Yogurt. Cook’s tip This recipe could also easily be made with Essential chicken, pork or plant-based mince. The leftover Chinese leaf can be shredded and added to salads, or try it tossed with a little kimchi paste and mayonnaise to äre up a roast chicken sandwich. Tofu scramble on toast with watercress salad Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 10 minutes 1 tsp Essential Olive Oil 225g pack The Tofoo Co Smoked Tofu, crumbled into large pieces 1 tsp garlic paste or purée ¼ tsp ground turmeric 115g pack baby spinach 2 large slices bread 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 100g watercress 1 Essential Avocado, sliced ½ Essential Lemon, juice 1 Heat ½ tsp oil in a nonstick frying pan. Add the tofu, garlic paste or purée, turmeric and seasoning and cook over a medium heat, stirring often, for 2-3 minutes, until the tofu is golden. Remove from the pan and set aside. Tip the spinach into the same pan, and cook brieåy over a high heat to wilt, then season. 2 Toast the bread. When the spinach has wilted, add the tofu back to the pan and let it heat through again. 3 Drizzle the remaining oil over the hot toast, then top with the scrambled tofu and spinach mixture. Scatter with the chilli. Toss the watercress and avocado with the lemon juice and some seasoning and serve alongside. V Per serving 1273kJ/303kcals/8.1g fat/1.2g saturated fat/39g carbs/3g sugars/6.9g äbre/15g protein/1.1g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day/vegan Low in saturated fat Salmon & asparagus traybake Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 480g pack 4 Scottish salmon ällets 1 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Herby Zaatar 1 Essential Lemon, 1 tbsp juice plus wedges to serve 1 tsp Essential Olive Oil 400g pack Parmentier potatoes 2 x 230g packs asparagus, trimmed and halved ¼ x 25g pack åat leaf parsley, roughly chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6 and line a large baking tray with baking parchment. Rub the salmon with the zaatar, lemon juice, oil and seasoning, then set aside on a plate to marinate for 10 minutes. 2 Scatter the potatoes over the baking tray and roast for 10 minutes, then add the marinated salmon and asparagus to the pan. Roast for another 15-20 minutes, until the äsh is opaque and åakes easily, the asparagus is tender and the potatoes are golden. Scatter with the parsley, then serve with lemon wedges. Per serving 1588kJ/380kcals/18g fat/4.7g saturated fat/24g carbs/4.6g sugars/5.4g äbre/27g protein/0.5g salt/ 1355mg omega 3/1 of your 5 a day/ gluten free High in omega 3 Miso turkey with udon & Chinese leaf Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 2 x 300g packs Essential British Turkey Breast Mince 2 tsp Essential Vegetable Oil 1 large Essential Onion, sliced 1 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Shichimi Togarashi 1 tsp white miso paste 1 tsp soy sauce ¾ Chinese leaf, thinly sliced 2 x 150g packs Amoy Straight to Wok Udon Thick Noodles ½ x 25g pack coriander, leaves picked 1 tsp black sesame seeds 1 red chilli, thinly sliced ½ Essential Lime, juice 1 Heat a large, wide nonstick saucepan until hot. Add the mince to the pan, break it up with a wooden spoon and stir continually, until cooked through, the juices run clear and no pink meat remains. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. 2 Add 1 tsp vegetable oil to the same pan, then add the onions and sauté for 2-3 minutes, until starting to soften. Return the mince to the pan, add the shichimi, miso and soy and stir. Add about 75ml water, then simmer gently for 3 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tsp oil in a large wok until hot. Tip in the Chinese leaf and stir fry for 2-3 minutes, adding a splash of water if needed. Add the noodles to the cabbage and stir fry for 2-3 minutes, until hot through. Serve the mince on top of the noodles, then scatter with the coriander, sesame seeds and chilli. Add the lime juice and serve. Per serving 1622kJ/384kcals/6.2g fat/1.2g saturated fat/26g carbs/5.9g sugars/5.1g äbre/53g protein/1g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day High in protein Recipes: Lara Luck and Joanna Farrow, Photography: Hannah Hughes, Food styling: Joss Herd, Prop styling: Wei Tang