Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 598

FREE 28 April 2022 SHARING THE LOVE Shelina Permalloo’s delicious pavlova for Eid p18 OFFERS Bank holiday savings on selected products p46 JACK DAVENPORT ‘Acting felt right for me, I don’t knowmuch else’ p10 ROAD TRIP The ultimate travel guide for the SouthWest coast p40 Essentially fabulous Create fuss-free and great value weekday meals, including this Cobb-style salad with turkey, sweetcorn & chive dressing, p16

28 APR I L 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS FOOD FOR THOUGHT 1 Use technology to bag a bargain or even a freebie. Olio is a clever app that lets you give away or accept food from people in your neighbourhood that would otherwise be wasted. Another is Too Good To Go, where you can buy a cheap ‘magic bag’ of surplus food from restaurants or shops at the end of the day. If apps aren’t your thing, go online to änd a community fridge near you: hubbub.org.uk has a network of 250 around the UK. 2 You don’t need a big garden or an allotment to grow vegetables, fruit and herbs. A pot, growing bag, window box or even an old bin is all you need to cultivate your own food. Lowmaintenance crops for beginners include salad leaves, courgettes, beetroot, potatoes and chillies. 3 Consider borrowing rather than buying glossy cookbooks. Check out your local library for whole sections devoted to different cuisines and dietary requirements, with publications by culinary favourites such as Nadiya Hussain, Sabrina Ghayour and Yotam Ottolenghi. Most libraries also lend ebooks for free (and don’t worry, the author gets a royalty from library loans, too). 4 Most ingredients can be frozen, be it reduced priced items from the shop, leftovers from dinner, or things you have in your fridge that won’t be eaten in time. Check that your food is suitable for freezing and is on or before its use-by date, then put it in a freezer bag, squeeze out the air and lay it åat (rather than a sack-shape) to save space, and label everything with a marker pen kept permanently in the nearest drawer. 5 Once ripe, keep fruit in the fridge. An apple will soon go soft and wrinkly in the fruit bowl, but stays fresh and crunchy for weeks if kept cold enough. Only bananas are better left on the side. 6 Invest in a slow cooker. They’re time-saving, economical to run (they use about the same amount of power as a lightbulb), and can transform the cheapest cuts of meat into tender stews. 7 Start batch cooking. Buy ingredients in bulk, set aside time at the weekend, turn on a podcast and cook enough for several future meals. For inspiration, try The Batch Lady by Suzanne Mulholland, We’re Hungry! by Ciara Attwell, The Batch Cook Book by Sam Gates or Cook Now, Eat Later by Mary Berry. BAG A STORE BARGAIN 8 Dried pulses, prepared and cooked according to pack instructions, are especially cost-effective. Lentils, beans, chickpeas and other legumes bulk out soups and stews in place of meat, provide both protein and äbre, and are sustainable to grow – so they’re good for you, your wallet and the planet. 9 Don’t overlook the deli counter. Not only are there regular deals, but it can work out cheaper too. You may only need to buy two slices of ham and a sliver of brie for a packed lunch or picnic, so why buy a whole pack that you might not eat in time? ways to save With fuel, energy and other cost of living prices continuing to rise, here are some money-savvy ideas that could keep bills down and, in some cases, help the planet too. Emma Higginbotham reports 25 TIME FOR CHANGE Grow your own fruit and veg (above); visit the deli counter to avoid buying too much food (below); cook in bulk and freeze leftovers (bottom left); get inspiration from culinary favourites like Yotam Ottolenghi ( left) Cover photography: Photography: Sam Folan, Food stylist: Joss Herd, Prop stylist: Wei Tang, Photography: Liam Desbois, Food stylist: Sonali Shah, Prop stylist: Max Robinson, Courtesy of www.garyholpin.co.uk, Phil Sharp

28 APR I L 202 2 3 10 Shop the freezer aisle. Once the preserve of oven chips and äsh ängers, today it stocks everything from haddock for äsh pie to berries for porridge, generally at lower prices than their fresh equivalents. Frozen vegetables are a good choice as they’re processed quickly, sealing in nutrients that are lost over time. 11 Buy loose in the fruit and veg aisle, too. As well as only picking up exactly what you need, you’re helping the planet twofold – by potentially saving waste and plastic packaging. 12 There are hundreds of items in the Essential Waitrose range, from fruit and veg to musthave household products. And although some cost just a few pence, the reduced price doesn’t mean a reduction in Waitrose standards or quality. 13 Similarly, canned goods tend to cost less than the fresh versions, with Essential Waitrose cans priced from 35p. Also, check out Tin Can Cook by Jack Monroe for a range of simple, pocket-friendly recipes based on canned food. 14 Waitrose’s best offers of the week are always included in Weekend and advertised at the front of the store, whether it’s a third off, three for £5 or a new lower price. Look out for yellow-stickered items too – if you can’t eat it on the day, pop it in the freezer. 15 Sign up to become a myWaitrose member for weekly discounts matched to the items you buy the most. Members can also claim 20% off selected items at counters in store each week – either meat, äsh, cheese or deli – among other money-saving beneäts. SAVE YOUR ENERGY 16 Turn down your heating thermostat. You’ll barely notice if your home is just one degree cooler, but it will make a noticeable difference to those energy bills. 17 Switch things off at the plug that aren’t being used, as ‘vampire energy’ – appliances left on standby – accounts for almost a quarter of Britain’s total electricity use. If it’s got a light, the chances are it’s sucking out power. 18 Apply for a free water meter, if your area offers them, and set yourself a challenge to shower in less than four minutes – you can buy shower timers for a couple of pounds. 19 Is all that laundry really necessary? See if your clothes can be spotcleaned or aired on the washing line instead. If not, wash them on a quick, low temperature setting. 20 With the price of petrol and diesel soaring, consider ditching your car more in favour of cycling or public transport. The government is spending millions on ‘active travel’ initiatives, such as safer bike lanes, and you can always join a car-sharing scheme for when you really need to drive. TIME FOR A REFRESH 21 Need a holiday? Consider doing a house swap instead of spending hundreds of pounds on a hotel or apartment. 22 Clear out your attic, bookcases, crammed cupboards and wardrobes, then sell your unwanted stuff on local Facebook groups, auction sites or apps such as Shpock or Vinted. Rather than buying new clothes, search for clothes swaps in your area, or consider setting one up. 23 Do you really need all those TV streaming services? Monthly subscriptions can quickly mount up, so keep a diary to see what you do – and don’t – actually watch. BBC iPlayer has free and frequently changing älms, and there are dozens of bingeworthy boxsets on All 4 to watch (or revisit), from Frasier and Father Ted to Friday Night Dinner. 24 Get änance ät. Look into autosaving apps, such as Chip, Plum or Moneybox, that automatically put money aside for you. Don’t let insurance companies automatically renew your home, car and travel policies – use a comparison site to shop around – and see if you can get a better deal on your broadband and mobile phone, too. 25 Cancel your gym membership in favour of free ätness, such as hiking, cycling, running (see parkrun.org.uk for organised events) or even swimming in rivers or the sea. Visit wildswimming.co.uk for ideas and safety advice. MAKE THE SWITCH Turn o lights and plugs not being used to save electricity (above); buy frozen fruit and veg (above left); have a clear out and sell unwanted items (above right); take outdoor exercise (below) Photography: Getty Images,Shutterstock

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5 28 APR I L 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart WEEK 16: USING POTATO PEELINGS We’re big fans of potatoes in this household. Many of our favouritemeals centre around mash, wedges or roasted tatties. Blame my husband’s Irish heritage, but our food waste bin’s never short of peelings. I’d like to reinvent them, inspired by anti-waste chef TomHunt, who turns them into crisps. We wash and dry thembefore dropping them into hot oil for a fewminutes. While they cool, we sprinkle over salt andmarvel at our wonky crisps. Tom suggests adding a squeeze of lime and a touch of chilli, which turns them into a tasty grown-up snack. Food waste campaigner and chef Martyn Odell oven roasts them for 15minutes. He also transforms carrot peelings into a salty, crunchy umami powder. His playful Instagramvideos (@lagomchef ) reveal the potential there is in reinventing scraps, as well as the fun you can have in the process. Don’t expect your peelings to look like normal crisps, but at least they don’t come in a package that combines plastic andmetal in a way that’s di cult to recycle. My next challenge is to avoid peeling spuds completely. I convincemy husband – whose family recipe for roast potatoes is sacrosanct – to try parboiling them in their skins, once he’s given thema quick scrub (any remnants of dirt come o when you boil them). They are delicious and slightly less fatty because a peeled spud soaks up the fat more easily. We also try skin-onmash, but prefer a creamier version. Anyway, we need to create a few peelings so we can have themas snacks. For more food waste tips seeMax LaManna’s #TooGoodToWaste series on theWaitrose YouTube channel My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD Last week I flew toBrazil tomeet artist Leandro Júnior and to attend the opening of his first solo exhibition at theMuseu de Arte Sacra de São Paulo. The trip connectedme tomy own youth inways I couldn’t have imagined. Before this visit, Leandro and I had nevermet, but a little over a year ago, a long-time friend, SimonWatson, who is a São Paulo-based art adviser, askedme if I would join a group of other collectors in financially supporting Leandro’s participation in an artist-in-residence programme in the city. Instantly, I said yes. An intuitive feeling – inmy gut, not my head – said this was something I should do. After years of collecting contemporary art, I was ready for a di erent type of art adventure. And givenmy interest in Brazil, my visionary friend’s track record of recognising, nurturing and guiding young artists and his forthright honesty, the one thing I felt sure of was that the journey with this artist would be, at the very least, memorable. In fact, it’s been extraordinary – and a journey about much more than art. I’ve learned about quilombos – the remote, di cult-to-access places in Brazil where escaped slaves settled. I’ve read about Jequitinhonha, the small city northeast of Minas Gerais that is Leandro’s roots and the source of inspiration for his paintings and sculptures. Andmy knowledge of Afro-Brazilian history has deepened and widened. But it is Leandro’s artistic journey in the residency programme that has beenmost impressive, inspiring, and a ecting. Because his financial resources were limited, early on, he’d dig up clay from the land around Jequitinhonha and used it tomake not just ceramic sculptures, but pigments for his paintings. He continues to use clay because it keeps himand his art practice connected to his roots. Some of Leandro’s early paintings are seascapes that contain prints of his hands, made by dipping them into the clay-pigment mixture and pressing themonto the painted image. Others depict the look and texture of the exterior walls of homes in Jequitinhonha, with red clay running down and through the lower blue border that is a characteristic decoration. In his portraits, most of the people are seen from behind looking into the distance, with clay used to delineate the infinite horizon toward which each of themgazes. These observations and thoughts about his artworks, along with inferences I’dmade about theman himself, were inmy headwhen I walked into Leandro’s studio andmet him for the first time. When he heardmy name, his face beamed. I felt enveloped by his smile as he walked towardsme to give me a hug. In that moment, I felt Leandro’s deep, heartfelt appreciation and gratitude. It was clear that participating in the artist-in-residence programme with its financial support had changed the trajectory of his life. And I realised he’d givenme a gift greater than art. He had givenme a full-circlemoment. In 1969, when I was growing up in the piney woods of the sandy Florida Panhandle, Dr Joel Fleishman, creator of Yale Summer High School inNewHaven, Connecticut, had selected me for a programme that openedmymind and eyes to new possibilities and paths. When I look at Leandro’s portraits of people, especially of young people, looking out into the open landscape, I can’t help but see a connection tomy young, rural self –wanting, believing, hoping, and trusting in a better future. A full-circle moment as I paid it forward to the next generation MY WEEK Alvin Hall Illustration: Alex Green/Folioart

6 28 APR I L 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views Spring has finally sprung. Welcome back blossom, bluebells and weak sunshine, or as one newspaper put it: “Springmarks the arrival of the new series of Britain’s Got Talent – a programme we watch to see what Amanda Holden and Alesha Dixon wear, rather than to ‘ooh’ and ‘aaah’ at contestants who juggle rabbits while slowly killing an Adele song in under 90 seconds.” We don’t even beat ourselves up about that level of shallowness. We need visual distractions more than ever right now and, if fashion and style is where you find it, this spring you are in for a treat. Even without BGT. Clothes designers everywhere have picked up the restrictive gauntlet of the trapped, dull pandemic life and shaken it out to reveal colour popping, magical, ethereal pieces of wonder. Gone are the androgynous boiler suits and lockdown athleisurewear. We’ve got floor-sweeping dresses in every colour, adorned with embroidery and pu ed sleeves that a five-year-old’s dressing up box would be proud of. We’ve got coats that are almost ecclesiastical in their billowing, cassocky nature. There are shimmering golds and bronzes, pleated skirts that whirl like fairground attractions, dazzling white suits à la Saturday Night Fever – and if you’ve ever felt the need to channel a pack of highlighters, summer 2022 will suit you. I mean, they’ll largely be on the young. And that’s a shame. The wardrobe of anyone over 60 would be greatly enhanced by Day-Glo leg warmers – both practical and cheery. I might start a side hustle. In fact, the only bit of this season’s styling I can’t embrace is the ‘cut out’. This is when you have a normal jumper, jacket or shirt which is fine from the front, but has a cut out section at the back. Literally a gaping hole, a slit, or slits on either side. It is to the workwear wardrobe what the penny-farthing is to the cycling commuter – ridiculous, impractical, but eye catching. You can’t wear a bra under a cut out top – or if you do, it’d have to be pretty from the back. Who, in the history of firmundergarment purchasing, has ever bought a bra because it ‘looks great frombehind’? I also worry that either Amanda Holden or Alesha Dixon might wear one cut out too far on family TV – it’s almost come to that a few times already. Come to think of it, is anyone watching for the ‘talent’ anymore? ‘Who, in the history of undergarment purchasing, has ever bought a bra because it “looks great from behind”’? Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover The power of food as a unifying force is explored in a collection of recipes and anecdotes from embassies around the world. It’s also the o cial cookbook of The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, as creator Ameer Kotecha tells Tessa Allingham Dine like a diplomat Back in the early 90s, and thanks to 30 seconds of advertising gold, we all thought we knewwhat an ambassador’s reception was like. It was about soft-focus shimmer and chandeliers, murmured small-talk, and a pyramid of foil-wrapped hazelnutcovered chocolates carried aloft by a white-gloved butler. It’s time to set the record straight, says Ameer Kotecha who, as a ForeignO ce diplomat (as well as foodwriter), is no stranger to the world of embassies and high commissions. The notion of free-flowing Champagne and piles of Ferrero Rocher is cliché. What’smore interesting, he says, is the power of food and drink tomake a diplomatic di erence. As Hillary Clinton said, food is ‘the oldest diplomatic tool’. There’s even a word for it – gastro-diplomacy. That’s the central theme in Ameer’s newbook, The Platinum Jubilee Cookbook. “I wanted to emphasise the power of gastro-diplomacy to help build bridges between international partners, break down barriers,” he writes, “to show that food can be a great unifier.” With 70 recipes from70 embassies and high commissions, Ameer bounds around the world to create a book that is part-recipe collection, part-fascinating history and anecdote, partcelebration of British food and drink and partglimpse into a world few ever experience. There’s a clue in the 70 – it is also the o cial cookbook of HerMajesty The Queen’s PlatinumJubilee, with a forewordwritten by Their Royal Highnesses The Prince ofWales and The Duchess of Cornwall. “It’s been such a pleasure to put together,” says Ameer, who juggledwriting it over two years with commitments as The Spectator’s food columnist, devising the PlatinumPudding competition and his full-time diplomatic job. “Counterterrorismby day, food and a rest by night.” You’ll find familiarity in recipes for shortbread, scones and crumble, and dishes that epitomise the cuisine of other countries – fragrant Indonesian nasi kuning, and an okra and lamb stew from Iraq, for example. “I didn’t want to leave out the biggies – Paris, Washington or Spain,” says Ameer, of the embassies included. “But I’ve included smaller places and cuisines readersmight not know.” In Lesotho, high commissioner AnneMacro has a post so small it doesn’t have a residence chef. Chicken breast cooked en papillote with lemon, rosemary and butter will likely be prepared by the commissioner herself, perhaps followed by her apricot ice creamsprinkledwith crumbed ginger biscuits. global flavours Diplomat and author Ameer Kotecha ( left); recipes for British scones (below) feature in his book, as well as fusion food, including beef rendang Wellington (above) Photography: David Loftus, Getty Images, Shutterstock

7 28 APR I L 202 2 7 QUESTIONS WITH… OMID DJALI LI The comedian and actor on Persian food and being mistaken for Stavros Flatley 1What were you like at school? I was actually pretty wild. I went from being very quiet to somebody who’d break into the staff room and play the piano naked. I was always up for a dare and a laugh. 2What’s the coolest thing in your house? The walking stick I used in the älm Gladiator. I bought it for about £12, and it’s worth a lot of money now. I’ll either auction it off or use it when I’m ancient. 3What would you cook a guest if you wanted to show off? A Persian dish called fessenjoon, which is a chicken stew made from walnuts and pomegranate molasses. It’s tangy and savoury, and everyone says it’s the most unusual dish they’ve ever had. 4How would your friends describe you? Rotund. And spiritually generous. 5Last conversation with a famous person? I sent a text to my wife, saying: “When I text you, please text me back within 10 minutes, or I get anxious.” But for some reason it went to [fellow comedian] Dara Ó Briain, who wrote back: “I’ll do my best, Omid, but I can’t promise. And why this all of a sudden?” I called him immediately to say sorry, it wasn’t meant for you. 6Do people stop you in the street? Yes. They say: “What was it like doing Britain’s Got Talent and what’s happened to the little boy?” They think I’m Stavros Flatley [the father who reached the 2009 BGT änal in the dance duo with his son]. Or Alexei Sayle. Now Alexei Sayle, I don’t mind… 7What would little Omid think of grown-up Omid? He’d be amazed at how conädent I am, but he’d say: “Maybe go a bit easier on the biscuits.” Omid Djalili: The Good Times Tour is at venues nationwide. omidnoagenda.com. Interview: Emma Higginbotham Andwho’s for braised zebu? This cattle breed is central to the cuisine of Madagascar, and is eaten at celebrations servedwith rice and a brothwith greens and ginger. In the absence of zebu, good braising beef is recommended. There’s a healthy dose of fusion. Take beef rendang Wellington, served by the BritishHigh Commission inKuala Lumpur to The Prince ofWales andDuchess of Cornwall during their 2017 visit. Charles Hay, high commissioner toMalaysia, is a fan: “Themarriage of that most traditional of British dishes, the beefWellington, with one of Malaysia’s best-loved dishes, the beef rendang, works well, with aromas of lemongrass, galangal and turmeric leaf,” he writes. Famous in diplomatic circles are chef James Viaene’s Lancashire hotpot canapés, dainty iterations of the hearty stew that he created for countless receptions. “James has retired,” says Ameer of themanwho ran the embassy kitchens in Paris for 40 years. “But he’s a legend in diplomatic chef circles.” Other stories are gentle, funny and satisfy curiosity. Ameer’s own experience of a week in Belize as acting high commissioner led to the inclusion of chimole stew. The memory, written by high commissioner Claire Evans, is of howAmeer and residence chef Sharon Sheppard shared the island’s dish of chickenwith ancho chillis, garlic and spices one spring evening that week. Come Christmas, a recipe frommince (s)pies is bound to be popular. It’s contributed by ‘C’ himself, chief of the Secret Intelligence Service, RichardMoore, and is of course “for your eyes only”. And did you know that in themonths of preparation for a State Banquet – surely the ultimate expression of gastro-diplomacy – threemembers of sta spend eight weeks unpacking the George IV grand service, polishing its 2,000 pieces of silver-gilt cutlery, candelabras and platters? Tucked among the recipes are stories behind familiar British foods and drinks – the likes of Colman’sMustard, PG Tips, and Lyle’s Golden Syrup – and recipes for cocktailsmade using British gins, sparkling wines, andwhiskies devised by bar managers at seven of London’smost prestigious bars. After all, part of the British diplomatic role is to fly the flag for such businesses abroad. Purple reign, the Dorchester hotel’s creation is a particularly apt Jubilee creation. The cocktail binds flavours fromall four UKnations –Northern Irish whiskey, Scottishwhisky, Welsh perry, and English raspberry liqueur – and is served in a platinum-purplemartini glass. It’s easy to see how gastro-diplomacy works, how conversations over the dishes Ameer describes aremore likely to be smooth. “One of the surest ways of breaking the ice when diplomats take up a newpost is to talk about the local food, show a real interest,” he says. “People warm to you, it gets relationships o to a good start. People have huge pride in their country’s food.” It works at themost critical geo-political level too, as proven in 2015 during the tense negotiations on Iran’s nuclear capabilities. Negotiators would eat separately during the talks, Ameer recalls. “But on 4 July, US Independence Day, the Iranians extended an invitation for the two sides to break bread together – no shop talk allowed. The occasion enabled US and Iranian negotiating adversaries to look at each other di erently – to finally see each other as people rather than as opposition. ‘I wanted to emphasise the power of gastro-diplomacy, to help build bridges and show food can be a great unifier’ The PlatinumJubilee Cookbook: Recipes and Stories fromHerMajesty’s Embassies around theWorld, by Ameer Kotecha (Bloomsbury Absolute) is out now. All royalties go to The Queen’s Commonwealth Trust, and The Prince ofWales’s Charitable Fund bonding banquets The Queen and Prince Philip on a state visit to France in May 1972, with the French president Georges Pompidou and his wife Claude

9 28 APR I L 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS FEASTING FOR CHARITY Indian restaurant group Dishoom is welcoming people from all faiths to join its ärst ever Chand Raat celebration on Monday (2 May). Meaning ‘night of the moon’, it marks the end of Ramadan and beginning of the Islamic festival Eid al-Fitr. Guests will feast on Dishoom favourites on the 42nd åoor of London’s ‘cheesegrater’ building, with proceeds going to school meals charity Akshaya Patra. dishoom.com/chand-raat OPEN THE BUBBLY Waitrose has been named Wine Supermarket of the Year 2022 at the prestigious International Wine & Spirit Competition. The win was credited to the impressive range and quality of Waitrose wines, as well as experiences such as producer tastings, and Partners’ wine knowledge. More than 200 in-store advisers hold Wine & Spirit Education Trust qualiäcations, and are on-hand to answer customers’ questions. UP WITH THE LARK Set your alarm early on Sunday (1 May) for International Dawn Chorus Day. If you slip outside for a walk before the sun rises, you’ll be treated to a range of birdsong, as nature’s symphony provides a free show. Visit wildlifetrusts.org/dawnchorus-day for examples to listen out for, from the low-pitched, åutelike blackbird to the loud, clear verses of the song thrush. RARITY RETURNS One of our rarest butteråies, the heath fritillary (below), is back from the brink of extinction thanks to conservation efforts. Known as the ‘woodman’s follower’ as it’s typically found near coppiced trees, reduced woodland management had contributed to its decline. A cold, wet May meant 2021 was a poor year for butteråies, but successes like this show we can make a difference, says the charity Butteråy Conservation. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of uplifting stories If you have a lawn, save yourself a job for a fewweeks by letting it growwild. Conservation charity Plantlife wants people to take part in its annual NoMowMay initiative by leaving their mowers in the shed. This will increase the number of lawn weeds and wildflowers that grow on the grass, providing food for bees, butterflies and other pollinators. “By letting your lawn bloom, spring-flowering plants get a chance to shine, bees and insects receive a nectar and pollen Park the mower for a walk on the wild side Pivot menus towards plants to reduce meat intake Last year’s National Food Strategy recommended that people in the UK consume 30% less meat by the end of the decade to aid human health and the environment. But how to shift the nation’s diet? One answer, according to new research, is to increasemeat-free options onmenus. As published in the International Journal of Behavioral Nutrition & Physical Activity, a study asked 2,205 UK adults to choose meals froma series of menus. When three of the four dishes weremeat-based, only 12% picked the plant-based option – but when three of four dishes were vegetarian, 48% opted to gomeat-free. Results of two further experiments, conducted in university and workplace cafeterias, followed the trend. “Our current production and consumption banquet, people benefit frommore time to relax, and less mowing reduces carbon emissions,” says Plantlife’s Archie Thomas. Research by the charity has found that reducingmowing in spring can result in enough nectar for 10 times more bees and other pollinators. It also discovered that more than 200 species were flowering on unmowed grass, including rare wildflowers such as meadow saxifrage and knotted clover. Unkempt lawns are becomingmore popular every year, according to the charity, with a growing number of people embracing a wild garden and sharing pictures using the hashtag #nomowmay. Plantlife also invites people to take part in its Every Flower Counts campaign, to discover the di erencemade by not mowing. Between 23 and 31May, it asks people to count the flowers in a squaremetre of their lawn and log the results online. This gives a personal nectar score, showing how much nectar sugar and pollen your lawn is producing, and howmany bees it supports. If you don’t have a garden, log results from a park or field. “Your data will still help us gather a national nectar score,” adds Archie. Anna Shepard plantlife.org.uk/everyflowercounts of meat has harmful consequences for the environment and human health,” says Rachel Pechey of the University of Oxford, who led the study. “Humans have ingrained habits, so for dietary change to pick up pace we need tomake it easier for people tomakemore sustainable, healthy choices. “Our three studies explored the impact of altering the ratio of meat-freemeals. Results suggested that increasing availability of meat-free options could be a promising intervention to reducemeat consumption.” The response was una ected by gender, job status and typical levels of meat-eating. Adds Rachel: “Reduction inmeat consumption is more likely when everyone can cut back a bit, rather than a few people cutting back a lot.” Alice Ryan Photography: Alamy Stock Photo, StockFood, Getty Images

10 28 APR I L 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Photography: Phil Sharp

11 28 APR I L 202 2 Jack Davenport grew up surrounded by actors – so he’s an ideal choice to star in the UK remake of French hit Call My Agent! Paul Kirkley meets him If it’sWednesday, it must be Atlanta. Jack Davenport is in the Georgian state capital on a flying visit to see his wife, fellow actorMichelle Gomez, who’s there shooting HBO’s comic book series DoomPatrol. But, in any givenmonth, the 49-year-old could literally be anywhere. “It’s a bit of a gypsy existence,” says Jack. “We were actually talking about this this morning. It’s slightly stressful, but also a problemof abundance, so you can’t really complain. We’ve been doing this for so long, you get kind of used to it. But we have a son, and that makes it more profound,” he adds, of making sure one of them is always at home inNewYork, or their weekend retreat in rural Connecticut. “Now the game is all about dovetailing. It’s never entirely neat and tidy. But every family has a juggling act of some description.” Does Harry, who’s nearly 12, appreciate that what Mum and Dad do is a bit exciting and exotic? “We do everything we can tomake himnot think that,” says Jack. “That said, the stu that Michelle, especially, has been doing for the last few years – they’re fun sets for a kid, there’s lots of monsters and robots and all kinds of crazy stu …” [In addition to Doom Patrol, Michelle’s recent jobs include Batman prequel Gotham and three years asMissy, the wicked nemesis to The Doctor in DoctorWho.] “But we try to normalise it.” Ironically, for Jack, being onmovie sets is the only normality he’s ever known. The son of the late actor Nigel Davenport (AMan For All Seasons, Chariots of Fire) and actress/theatre directorMaria Aitken, he grew up in a house where it was perfectly routine for the likes of JohnHurt or DenholmElliott to pop round for lunch. And they were always terrifically entertaining company. “The thing about actors is that our job is to play,” says Jack. “So you have to retain contact with some kind of childishness. As a child, these people can speak your language, to a degree, in a way in which a bankmanager might not be able to. Not to denigrate bankmanagers and their love for their children,” he adds, hastily. “As I’ve got older, I’ve realisedmy desire to be an actor wasn’t to do with ambition, it was to do with tribalism. I didn’t need to be the chieftain, I just wanted to be in the tribe. For good or ill, I love actors, I love their company. Most of my friends are actors. I don’t knowmuch else. It’s a dangerous decision, to invite a world of disappointment and pain into your everyday existence. But it felt right for me.” Dangerous or not, it’s a decision that’s worked out well: fromhis breakthrough role in seminal 90s BBC drama This Life and racy sitcom Coupling, tomovie hits including The TalentedMr Ripley, Kingsman: The Secret Service and Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean franchise, life in the tribe has been good to Jack. And now his latest project finds him further inside his comfort zone, acting in a show about actors – and their representatives on Earth – in the UK remake of hit French comedy-drama Dix Pour Cent, aka Call My Agent!. He was ‘trepidatious’, he admits, about how reworking such a well-loved showmight be received by fans of the ‘glorious original’. But he needn’t have worried – in the assured hands of Bafta-winning writer-director JohnMorton (Twenty Twelve, W1A) Ten Percent pulls o the trick of being a worthy homage to the sourcematerial, while finding its own, brilliantly distinct tone. “The first episode, in particular, is structurally very similar to the first episode of the French one. But thereafter, we bifurcate a lot,” says Jack. “The world of London showbusiness is quite di erent to Paris, particularly the depth of its links withHollywood, so we get a lot of good mileage out of that. And John… he’s a very funny writer, but there’s also a tenderness to his approach, which is moving.” Jack plays JonathanNightingale, a sharkish talent rep at the top London agency co-founded by his father (Jim Broadbent). Alongside the regular cast, the show features guest turns from some of the agency’s A-list clientele, with Life through a lens

13 28 APR I L 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS the likes of Helena BonhamCarter, OliviaWilliams, David Oyelowo, DominicWest, KellyMacdonald andHimesh Patel gamely stepping up to play screen versions of themselves. “Almost all the guests are either friends of mine, or I’ve worked with before,” says Jack. “I’ve known OliviaWilliams for 25 years. So it was very odd, to have themas facsimiles of themselves, andme as a di erent person. It was a bit like looking down the wrong end of a telescope. But the thing is, you don’t get points just for turning up and being a good sport. Actually, what we ask of the guest stars is quite revealing and vulnerable. Who doesn’t like seeing a curtain drawn back on that sort of thing?” Are actors’ reputations for being thin-skinned divas deserved – has Jack ever had ameltdown in his agent’s o ce? “I haven’t,” he smiles. “But some actors needmore bucking up than others. I do occasionally, but I go elsewhere.” Jack’s easygoing, equable personality (in conversation, he is charmpersonified) even helped him ride out what, on paper, sounds like a traumatic early experience – when, aged just eight, he was packed o to boarding school to shield him from the fallout of his parents’ divorce. “Children are adaptable, and I adapted,” he says. “But years later, I went back tomy prep school and, looking at this squadron of eight-year-olds, I was struck by how incredibly young they were. Andmy heart slightly broke for my eightyear-old self. Inmy parents’ defence, they were getting divorced, which isn’t easy for anyone. And the school they sent me to, the Dragon School in Oxford, is as humane as such an inhumane process can be. But it’s still essentially ripping a small child away from their family.” For all his tribal allegiance to actors, Jack wasn’t always sure he wanted to be one. He swerved drama school in favour of studying filmand English literature at the University of East Anglia, and was contemplating a behind-the-scenes career – until John Cleesemisread his request for work experience and gave him a small role in his comedy film Fierce Creatures. Having secured an agent, at 22 he was cast asMiles, the privileged, boorish law graduate in BBCTwo’s This Life – one of the defining shows of mid-90s ‘Cool Britannia’. “It predates the internet,” notes Jack. “That’s probably crucial to the warmth of its reception. I’m sure, if people could express their disappointment the way they do now [online], it wouldn’t have been so universally loved. The golden glowwe remember is partly a function of the era in which it existed.” The showmade instant stars of its young cast – indeed, by 2003, both Jack and AndrewLincoln could be found pursuing Keira Knightley across the big screen, he in Pirates of the Caribbean, Andrewwith those creepy cue cards in Love, Actually… “Poor Keira,” he says, shaking his head. Though he’d experiencedHollywood glamour up close starring alongsideMatt Damon, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow and Cate Blanchett in 1999’s The TalentedMr Ripley, jumping aboard Johnny Depp’s Pirates franchise was, says Jack, “the most Led Zeppelinmoment” of his career. “We were like an army – 800 of us flew to the Caribbean. I was on a jumbo jet where I knew every passenger. Then we got there, and flew o in 17 smaller planes. It was unbelievable. We’d be in the middle of nowhere, and suddenly there’d be 750 lunches. People don’t makemovies like that anymore.” In recent years, there has beenmuch discussion around privilege in the arts – a world, so the argument goes, in which working class actors are increasingly denied opportunities open to the likes of Benedict Cumberbatch, TomHiddleston and Eddie Redmayne. As the privately educated son of a well-connected family (his mother is the great-niece of newspaper magnate and wartime minister Lord Beaverbrook, and his uncle is Jonathan Aitken, the ToryMPwho was jailed for perjury), does Jack think it’s a fair conversation? “Like Benedict, my parents are both actors, and there’s no questionmy vague familiarity with film sets and theatres was an advantage,” he considers. “And a privileged education, in a way, gives you a degree of self-confidence. It might bemisplaced self-confidence, but it’s self-confidence nonetheless. Of course that’s unfair. Other people have to fight their way in. Nothing about my wife’s background [in Glasgow] prepared her for a career in showbusiness. Her journey is muchmore interesting and profound. I just ended up doing what mymumand dad did. Which shows a singular lack of imagination, probably.” He’s being a little harsh on himself here, of course. Because, while connections might get you through the door, you still have to prove yourself once you’re in the room, surely? “That’s true,” he says. “In this business, with the sums of money involved and the careers on the line, nobody’s going to go: ‘He’ll be alright, ’cos his dad did it.’ It doesn’t work like that. Because, guess what? A hundredmillion pounds will find you out really quickly.” All episodes of Ten Percent are streaming now on Prime Video The novelty of Pirates of the Caribbean started to wear off while making the back-toback sequels, admits Jack. “That sounds churlish, but we were spending months and months in a place you normally only spend a fortnight. There’s a big, complicated äght sequence in the second one, which took forever. But at least it’s the sort of thing I can show my son and say: ‘Look, once Dad could bend over without groaning.’” Son Harry recently watched Pirates for the ärst time, and “was both impressed and delightfully unimpressed”. Is he impressed there’s a Lego ägure of his dad from it? “I’m impressed,” laughs Jack. “It’s truly a highlight of my career, having my own Lego ägure.” Either way, says Jack, he can’t compete with the kudos of your mum knowing The Doctor. “There was a period when Harry would text Doctor Who, and Doctor Who (Peter Capaldi) would reply.” ‘My desire to be an actor wasn’t ambition, it was tribalism. I didn’t need to be the chieftain, I just wanted to be in the tribe’ jack of trades Jack Davenport stars with Jim Broadbent and Hiftu Quasem in Ten Percent ( left); alongside Orlando Bloom in the Pirates of the Caribbean franchise (below); with wife Michelle Gomez (bottom) FIGHTING TALK Photography: Amazon Prime, Alamy Stock Photo, Jenny Anderson/WireImage

15 28 APR I L 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Family feast Shelina Permalloo’s delicious sharing menu to mark Eid p18 Happy harvest Hard work pays o for team producing our asparagus p20 Elly Curshen Picnic perfection, including spinach & feta hand pies p26

16 28 APR I L 202 2 FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. I can still remember my mouth watering at the food MasterChef 2012 winner Shelina Permalloo cooked on the show – inåuenced by her Mauritian heritage, it looked so vibrant you could almost taste it. So I’m thrilled that she’s our guest chef for this issue, sharing some of the dishes that her family eat at home when they celebrate Eid (p18). Like the food that won her the MasterChef title, it’s colourful and full of åavour, and even just reading the recipes, I wanted to eat it! But what I really love is that she’s relaxed about taking shortcuts – her creations are generous and celebratory and also allow her more time to spend with family and friends, instead of being stuck in the kitchen all day. Whatever occasion we’re celebrating, we can all learn from that. ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Serves 4 Prepare 20 minutes Cook 10 minutes 4 Essential White Eggs, washed 2 Essential Sweetcorn on the cob (or 300g kernels) 2 Essential Romaine Hearts, shredded 180g pack 2 red Romano peppers, halved, deseeded and sliced 1 Essential Avocado, stoned, peeled and sliced 160g smoked turkey, chopped For the dressing 3 tbsp Essential Half Fat Mayonnaise 3 tbsp Essential Natural Yogurt 2 tsp Essential Red Wine Vinegar 1½ tsp Essential Wholegrain Mustard 2 tbsp änely chopped chives 1 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Lower in the eggs and sweetcorn and simmer for 8 minutes, then drain and run under the cold tap to cool. Meanwhile, make Cook’s tip For a meat-free version swap the turkey for smoked tofu or light mozzarella. Steak & balsamic roasted tomatoes on sourdough Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 230g pack Essential British Beef Rump Steak 250g pack Essential Cherry Tomatoes, halved 1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced ½ Essential Red Onion, sliced 2 large sprigs thyme 2 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 1 tbsp Essential Balsamic Vinegar 2 large slices sourdough or Essential Baguette 2-3 tsp Essential Hot Horseradish Sauce Basil leaves, to serve (optional) 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Take the steak out of the packaging, trim off the excess fat, season and set aside until ready to cook. Meanwhile, mix the tomatoes, garlic, onion and thyme in a medium roasting tin (it should all ät quite snugly) with 1½ tbsp oil. Season and roast for 10 minutes. 2 Stir the vinegar into the tomatoes and roast for 10 minutes more. Meanwhile, heat the remaining ½ tbsp oil in a medium frying pan over a high heat. Cook the steak for 2½ minutes on each side for medium-well done, ensuring all the edges are well browned, then set aside to rest on a board for 5 minutes. 3 Toast the bread, then spread with the horseradish sauce, to taste. Spoon over the hot tomatoes along with any roasting juices (discard the thyme). Slice the steak and arrange on top, scattering with a few basil leaves, if using, to serve. Per serving 2657kJ/635kcals/30g fat/2.3g saturated fat/57g carbs/9.6g sugars/5.1g äbre/29g protein/1.8g salt High in protein Cook’s tip There’s no need to waste tomatoes that are past their best – use this roasting technique to give them another lease of life. The hot oven caramelises them slightly and intensiäes their åavour, making them really delicious and versatile. Try them spooned over pasta or on salads, too. Savings to savour Cobb-style salad with turkey, sweetcorn & chive dressing the dressing by mixing all the ingredients together in a bowl. Season and set aside. 2 When ready to assemble, peel and quarter the eggs and slice the corn kernels from the cobs. Toss the shredded lettuce and 2 tbsp of the dressing in the base of a large platter or shallow salad bowl. 3 Arrange the eggs, corn, peppers, avocado and turkey in sections over the leaves. Splash over more dressing and serve immediately. Per serving 1337kJ/321kcals/18g fat/4.1g saturated fat/13g carbs/7.4g sugars/7g äbre/23g protein/0.9g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Source of äbre

17 28 APR I L 202 2 Cook’s tip Tahini is great for making creamy but dairy-free dressings. It should be stored in the fridge (it can be kept for up to 3 days) and can separate, so give it a good stir before using. A useful swap for tahini in this dressing, is our Essential Houmous – simply thin it down slightly as described above. Cook’s tip Both buckwheat soba noodles and tamari (and using the maple syrup option) contain no gluten, making this recipe gluten-free. Cook’s tip Any ärm white äsh ällets will work well in this recipe, including our frozen Essential Coley or pollock ällets. Defrost thoroughly before use. Roast salmon with spring veg & sesame dressing Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 2 fennel bulbs, fronds trimmed and set aside 1 bunch Essential Salad Onions, cut into 4cm lengths 1 tbsp Essential Olive Oil 200g bulgur wheat 300g frozen Essential Garden Peas 1 Essential Lemon, juice, plus extra wedges, to serve (optional) 480g pack 4 Scottish salmon ällets, skin removed 2 tbsp tahini ½ x 25g pack åat leaf parsley, änely chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Halve the fennel bulbs, cut out and discard the tough core, then cut the bulb into 1cm thick slices. Toss on a large roasting tray with the salad onions and oil, then roast for 15 minutes, stirring halfway through. 2 Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Add the bulgur wheat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the peas and cook for 3-4 minutes more. Drain thoroughly in a sieve, then stir into the tray with the fennel. Sit the salmon on top, squeeze over the juice of ½ the lemon, season and roast for 8 minutes, or until the äsh is opaque and åakes easily with a fork. 3 For the dressing, whisk the tahini with 5 tbsp cold water. Stir in the remaining lemon juice with the parsley and a pinch of salt (add more water to loosen if needed). Serve with the salmon, bulgur wheat and vegetables, and fennel fronds scattered over the top, with lemon wedges on the side, if liked. Per serving 2254kJ/538kcals/21g fat/3.5g saturated fat/47g carbs/3.5g sugars/10g äbre/34g protein/0.8g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day High in omega 3 Soba noodle bowls with asparagus, tofu & ginger dressing Serves 2 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 10 minutes 230g pack asparagus, ends trimmed and cut into 4cm lengths 200g pack soba 160g Essential Cucumber, halved and änely sliced 300g pack silken tofu, drained and cut into 1cm thick slices 2 Essential Salad Onions, änely chopped Black sesame seeds (optional) For the dressing 1 tbsp Cooks’ Ingredients Tamari Soy Sauce 1 tbsp Japanese rice vinegar 1 tsp maple syrup or Essential Pure Clear Honey ¼ tsp grated ginger (about 1cm piece) 1 tsp toasted sesame oil 1 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, add the asparagus and simmer for 3 minutes. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Add the noodles to the pan and simmer for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse under a warm tap to remove excess starch. Shake dry thoroughly. 2 Mix the dressing ingredients in a small bowl. Place the cucumber in a separate bowl and toss with 1 tbsp of the dressing. Set both aside until ready to serve. 3 Divide the noodles between bowls and top with the cucumber (and extra dressing in the bowl). Arrange the tofu and asparagus on top and spoon over the remaining dressing. Scatter with the salad onions and sesame seeds (if using), then serve. V Per serving 2243kJ/532kcals/11g fat/1.8g saturated fat/73g carbs/8.9g sugars/6g äbre/33g protein/1.6g salt/ gluten free Low in saturated fat White fish with cannellini beans, artichokes & spinach Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes ½ x 280g jar Cooks’ Ingredients Chargrilled Artichoke in Oil 2 echalion shallots, sliced änely lengthways 2 cloves garlic, crushed 400g can Essential Cannellini Beans, drained and rinsed 100ml dry white wine (optional) 100-200ml Cooks’ Ingredients Chicken or Vegetable Stock ½ tsp Essential Clear Honey 115g pack baby spinach 250-275g ärm white äsh ällets, such as Essential Hake or Cod 2 tbsp Essential Single Cream 200g Essential Baguette, to serve 1 Add 1 tbsp oil from the artichoke jar to a medium sauté pan or shallow casserole which has a lid. Set over a medium heat, add the shallots, a pinch of salt and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until softened. Drain the remaining artichokes of oil and pat dry with kitchen paper. 2 Add the garlic to the pan and fry for another minute, then stir in the cannellini beans and artichokes. Add the wine (if using, if not add 200ml stock) and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the stock and honey and bring to a simmer. 3 Stir in the spinach, then nestle in the äsh and season. Cover with a lid, lower the heat slightly and simmer gently for 6-8 minutes, or until the äsh is opaque and åakes easily with a fork. Stir the cream into the sauce and serve in shallow bowls with the crusty bread. Per serving 2827kJ/671kcals/12g fat/ 3.3g saturated fat/75g carbs/9.4g sugars/14g äbre/50g protein/1.7g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day High in protein Looking to save money on your food bills without sacrificing any of the flavour? The Weekend food team have created these simple and delicious midweek meals – all making the most of our great value, great quality Essential range. Enjoy! Recipe writer: Eleanor Maidment, Photography: Sam Folan, Food Styling: Joss Herd, Prop Styling: Wei Tang

XX XXXXX 2021 18 FOOD&DRINK Makes 8 Prepare 20 minutes + proving Cook 40-45 minutes 550g strong white bread åour, plus extra for dusting 1 tbsp fast action yeast 10g caster sugar 150ml whole milk, warmed 1 British Blacktail Medium Egg 100g butter, at room temperature For the älling 2 tbsp cumin seeds 200g grated Cheddar and mozzarella For the topping 1 British Blacktail Egg (any size) 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tbsp sesame seeds 1 To make the dough, bring all the ingredients together in a large bowl with 10g salt, until ‘shaggy’, then add 50-75ml warm water. Bring the dough together, then knead for 10 minutes, or until smooth. 2 Put the dough back into the bowl, cover with a clean tea towel and rest in a warm place until the dough doubles in size. This can vary depending on how warm your kitchen is. Line a large baking sheet with baking parchment. Mauritian-inspired naan This is typically eaten throughout Ramadan, and is usually on Eid tables during the year. It isn’t a naan you would probably recognise – it’s more of a hybrid dough, enriched with eggs, milk and butter borrowed fromFrench brioche. I love our island’s ethnic and religious identities, which have blended to create a unique cuisine. These can be made with beef mince or cheese Celebrate Eid with Shelina Permalloo Eid comes around twice a year and there’s always a panic, as they arrive in quick succession to one another. The first Eid of the year is right after the month of fasting and the second follows a fewmonths later. It’s a time of present giving and lots of cooking – to give away in charity, to give to friends and family, then for our households. Ramadan and Eid are firmly wrapped up in charity, so I like to give through food. My daughter and I work as a factory line, creating the most delicious Moroccan- and Mauritianinspired goodie box which will include indulgent sweets and biscuits. On Eid itself, the day is filled with people in and out of your house and a table full of food. I like to prepare a selection of sweet and savoury dishes that guests can serve themselves, meaning that I’m not going back and forth to the kitchen, as I want to be with family and friends and enjoy every moment together. I’ll also have a selection of hot drinks on tap, such as fresh Moroccan mint tea and a pot of co ee, that I top up every hour so everyone can help themselves. Shelina is a 2012MasterChef winner and cookbook author whose Southampton restaurant, LakazMaman, servesMauritian street food with amodern twist. @shelinacooks 3 Knock back the dough and divide it into 8 equal-sized balls. Dust the work surface with some extra åour, then take 1 ball and roll into a rectangle around 20 x 12cm. Sprinkle 2 tbsp cumin seeds and a good amount of grated cheese along the middle of the rectangle and fold it in ½ lengthways to ensure none of the älling escapes. Go over it with a rolling pin to ensure it is ärmly inside. 4 Roll this piece of dough up from one of the long edges to make a coiled rope shape, then shape this into a spiral. Tuck the loose end into the bottom of the dough. Repeat this process with the other pieces to give 8 individual ‘rolls’. Place onto the lined tray and allow to rise for around 30 minutes. 5 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Lightly beat the egg for the topping with a pinch of salt and 1 tbsp water to create an egg wash. Brush this over the tops of the naans, then sprinkle generously with cumin seeds and sesame seeds. Bake in the oven for 40-45 minutes, until golden and cooked all the way through. Allow to cool before serving. Shelina’s tip I like to cover the dough and put it into the microwave (without it being switched on) as I änd this creates a nice warm environment for the dough to rise. Per naan 1973kJ/471kcals/21g fat/12g saturated fat/51g carbs/2.7g sugars/2.6g äbre/18g protein/1.9g salt

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