Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 592

FREE 10 March 2022 7-13 MARCH FOOD WASTE ACTION WEEK SUPPORTING AGAINST PARTNERS WEEKENDSPECIAL MEET THE B CORPS The companies balancing proät with people and planet March is B Corpmonth and a chance to spread the word about a growing breed of companies that are tackling environmental and social issues as part of their everyday strategies. These are businesses that have achieved ‘B Corporation’ status by proving they look after their teams, make a di erence in their communities and take serious account of their impact on the planet. Hundreds of UK companies have become B Corps, including The GuardianMedia Group, outdoor clothing brand Finisterre and travel company Sawday’s. They MARK KERMODE Film critic previews the star-studded Baftas p37 OFFERS Great savings on simple suppers fromWaitrose p42 BE THE CHANGE Our eight-page pullout on B Corp companies CRUFTS IS BACK Perfect pooches bidding to be crowned top dog p41 Love your leftovers Elly Curshen shares her delicious recipes using food that’s often thrown away, p22

2 10 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VIEWS JORDAN’S TIPS FOR MAKING YOUR VIDEO STAND OUT Be authentic: The TikTok community values authenticity above all else, so don’t aim for content that is overly polished or stylised Use creative tools: This is where magic happens. Use älters, stickers and sounds to bring your video to life Go vertical: All videos should be shot (or edited) for vertical viewing – so embrace the full-screen experience Could you whip up a dish from three lonely ingredients in your fridge? If so, it’s time to take the TikTok #TooGoodToWaste challenge, writes Emma Higginbotham ‘TikTok is perfect for recipe inspiration, food hacks and restaurant recommendations’ Lights, camera, food waste action! Creative cooks are being set a challenge byWaitrose: to take three or more ingredients from their fridge that need using up, thenmake a TikTok video of themselves transforming them into something delicious. Called #TooGoodToWaste, the challenge ties in with FoodWaste ActionWeek, which highlights the link between throwing food away and climate change. TikTok food stars including Poppy O’Toole, Ni Kabvina and Made in Chelsea’s the Proudlocks are getting involved, and Waitrose is hoping that everyone will join in, whether just by watching the videos and feeling inspired tomake a dish from something destined for the food bin, or filming themselves taking up the challenge. “We know that FoodWaste ActionWeek is important to people and this gives us an opportunity to try something di erent,” says SarahHood, Partner and social marketing lead atWaitrose, on why they’ve chosen to use the video-sharing platform to get themessage across. “You need to use three or more ingredients to create something delicious, then share it using the hashtag #TooGoodToWaste, and tag content, with #tiktokrecipe generatingmore than 5.2 billion views.” Raising awareness about wasting food is at the heart of the #TooGoodToWaste challenge forWaitrose. In Britain, households throw away 6.6million tonnes of food a year – the equivalent, per family, of eight meals a week – which is responsible for nearly 25million tonnes of CO2 emissions. “We know food waste is one of the key topics our target customers caremost about,” says Sarah. “And 70%of all food wasted in the UK is wasted by citizens in their own homes, so everyone has a role to play.” The impact that our food choices and behaviours have on the planet is already a hot topic on TikTok. The #vegantok hashtag has hadmore than 105million views, while #zerowaste has had 1.8 billion. “Our community has established clear values when it comes to food,” says Jordan. “Sustainability and protecting the environment are areas they care deeply about, which is why hashtag challenges like this resonate so well.” To find out more, visit tiktok.com/tag/ TooGoodToWaste. This takes you to the #TooGoodToWaste page, where you can see all the videos and join in too. “Themore people that take part in the challenge, the better,” says Sarah. “We want to get themessage out thatWaitrose cares about foodwaste, andwe help you to care about it as well. “It’s an opportunity to explore the issue, to use your food in amore inventive way, to savemoney – and have some fun.” your friends to encourage them to take up the challenge as well.” With TikTok’s popularity soaring over the past few years, food has been a favourite theme of its short videos, with #cooking and #foodtok receiving 72.3 billion and 14.5 billion views respectively. Anyone with a smartphone canmake a video using the app, and polished performances are far from necessary – cooking videos are often filmed one-handed amid the kitchen chaos. “TikTok’s short-formformat hasmade it the perfect place to share everything fromrecipe inspiration and food hacks to restaurant recommendations and quirky kitchen gadgets,” says JordanBourse, TikTok’s retail and fashion brand partnershipsmanager. “Food lovers make up a large part of the platform’s billion-strong global audience, with 66%of people counting food and drink as a key interest. And inspirational recipes have easily become one of themost popular types of fridge fun Film a short recipe using food destined for the bin; Ni Kabvina and Poppy O’Toole (below) Cover Photography: Tom Regester, Food stylist: Jennifer Joyce, Prop stylist: Rosie Jenkins, Chiabella James/ © 2020 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All Rights Reserved, Fabio Lovino/ © 2021 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Pictures Inc. All Rights Reserved, Yulia Titovets/ © The Kennel Club

3 10 MARCH 202 2 AD BREAK Transport for London’s ban on junk food advertisements has led to more healthy shopping habits, according to the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine. Researchers concluded that the ban, which began in February 2019, is associated with a 1,000-calorie decrease in high fat, salt and sugar (HFSS) foods in Londoners’ weekly shops, and that the most striking impact has been on chocolate and confectionery, which fell by 20% per household. SNAPPING ANIMALS A photography exhibition featuring the animals of Longleat has gone on display at the Wiltshire safari park. But rather than being a commission for professional photographers, the images were all snapped by staff and guests. “We have always been amazed at the standard of photographs taken by our visitors, so we decided to create an exhibition to celebrate their achievements,” says Longleat’s Daisy Mercedes. PIE EYED It’s British Pie Week (7-13 March) and on 11 March, the winner of the British Pie Awards will be announced at the pastry favourite’s spiritual home, Melton Mowbray. Last year’s Supreme Champion was a meat and potato pie from Bowring Butchers in Mansäeld. Chichesterbased Turner’s Pies produced 2020’s winner, a rump steak and Stilton pie, while a vegan curried sweet potato, butternut squash and spinach pie by Jon Thorner’s of Somerset triumphed in 2019. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of uplifting stories Stars of the big screen will be served a vegan feast at the EE Bafta FilmAwards on Sunday (13March). Nominees including Will Smith, Leonardo Di Caprio (right), Ariana DeBose (below right) and Lady Gaga will be o ered the plant-based dinner at the Grosvenor House hotel, following the ceremony at London’s Royal Albert Hall. Themenu begins with a starter of marinated beetroot with whipped vegan curd and black cabbage relish, followed by an open tartlette of spring greens and leeks with cider and onion purée. For dessert, A-listers will dine on apple tart with caramelised pu pastry and green apple sorbet, while sipping veganfriendly Taittinger Champagne. “We’ve gone plant-based again, using seasonal British ingredients,” says Anton Manganaro, head chef at Bafta 195 Piccadilly, who devised a similarly sustainable dinner for last year’s awards. “Times have changed, and people are calling for lower carbon It’s not just land dwellers who like tomake noise. Under the sea, there is a lot of chat. From the chirps of a clownfish to the boing of aminke whale, a vast number of aquatic noises ring out in our oceans. Scientists are now planning to create a reference library of every sound in the sea to helpmonitor the health of marine ecosystems. Called the Global Library of Underwater Biological Sounds, or Glubs, it will bring together existing sound libraries of aquatic species, and also identify unknown noises. Experts believe that 1,000 of the world’s 34,000 known fish species make some noise, as well as all 126marinemammals, but manymore sounds may be waiting to be discovered. There are also regional dialects: Madagascar’s skunk anemonefishmakes di erent fighting sounds to thosemade by the same species in Indonesia. “The world’s most extensive habitats are aquatic, rich with sounds produced by a diversity of animals,” saysMiles Parsons of the Australian Institute of Marine Science. “There is a need to document, quantify and understand the sources of underwater animal sounds before they disappear.” Under the sea… it’s noisy Vegan menu takes centre stage at Baftas footprints onmenus.” Since actor Joaquin Phoenix persuaded the Golden Globes to go plant-based in 2020, other ceremonies have followed suit, including the Critics’ Choice Awards and the Screen Actors Guild Awards. However, hardenedmeat-eaters can still choose an alternative at the Baftas, says Anton: “We’re o ering a duckmain course as well, using the whole bird, so it’s a lower carbon footprint.” Around 1,800 diners are expected, and Anton, who will work alongside Grosvenor House hotel executive chef Nigel Boschetti, admits it’s a challenge to cater for such numbers. “But it’s good to be pushed,” he says, “and it’s always such a great evening.” movie meal Actors and directors will dine on a British, seasonal, vegan menu at London’s Grosvenor House hotel (right) ReadMark Kermode’s Baftas preview, p37 TO ALL OUR CUSTOMERS Thanks to the incredible generosity of customers and employees (Partners), the John Lewis Partnership has raised £1 million for the British Red Cross’s Ukraine appeal. This includes a donation of £100,000 from the Partnership and a further £150,000 of matched funding. Donations to this vital cause can still be made via jland.partners/UkraineCrisisAppeal. Turn to p8 for more Photography: Getty Images, Alamy Stock Photo, Joseph Clearly AnteUpPhotography BAFTA/Scott Garätt, Taylor Hill/FilmMagic

5 10 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart WEEK 10: GREEN-PROOFING THE FAMILY’S LAUNDRY Without wanting to sound like a 50s housewife, managing the laundry is an unavoidable part of life, especially if you have children, who seem to find throwing clothes into the washing pile easier than folding and putting themaway. As a result, our machine is put through its paces most days and we plough through laundry liquid. As well as teachingmy kids to wash clothes only when they look or smell bad, I’mkeen to explore alternative ways to keep our household clean and reduce plastic waste. So when a friend tells me about her Ecoegg, which she started using because other products gave her eczema, I buy one. Inside are biodegradable pellets that clean your clothes because they containmolecules, known as surfactants, that lift dirt from the fabric. Other ingredients in themineral pellets make sure that grime in the water does not move back onto the fabrics. You lay the egg on top of your washing and after 70 washes or so, you replace the pellets and reuse the plastic egg shell. It does bang around in the druma little, but gives o a lovely fresh scent, although not as strong as most conventional products. My only complaint is I’ve noticed it’s not great at removing stains. If I have a particularly grubby load, I’ve started adding a dash of Ecover Zero Laundry Liquid. This is one of those small compromises that enables me to stick with doing the green thing, most of the time. If you’re not ready to go full egg, Ecover’s concentrated bio laundry liquids come in bottles made from 100% post-consumer recycled plastic and contains only plant-based, biodegradable ingredients. My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD I have a delayed o ce party tonight. Back in December, we booked a session at Bounce, a fun table tennis venue. Then Omicron hit, so we postponed ’til March. I love table tennis, but I have toldmy boss that, at the moment, I’mnot able to serve well. Naturally, he asks why. Reluctantly, I answer that I have a sore right arm– because I fell o my penny-farthing. “Ah yes,” he replies, half a smile playing around his lips, like a ping pong ball that can’t decide which side of the net to fall. He has seen the story. Everyone, it seems, has seen the story. When I went for amassage at a rather lovely spa across the road frommy house last week, the lady at reception said: “Is it because of the fall?” At least she avoided the next question. Why, Jeremy, why? I got this more than enough beforemy tumble fromeight feet up onto unforgiving grass. But now I’masked continuously: why return to amode of travel that fell drastically out of fashion when someone invented smaller wheels? So, a bit of history. The first recognisable cycle kknown as a boneshaker. But a lack of gears and small wheels meant it was uncomfortable inmotion or got stranded on even the slightest incline. EugèneMeyer, a Frenchman, had the idea in 1868 of a large front wheel kept in shape by spokes, and by the 1880s, the penny-farthing had properly arrived. Themassive front wheel made it a smoother ride andmeant that – without a chain or gears – at the optimum cycling speed of 12mph, the rider wasn’t having to pedal like crazy. The only issue was safety. The phrase ‘breakneck speed’ came courtesy of the penny-farthing. Which takes us back to the question. Why ride a bicycle that was made obsolete by the arrival of the ‘safety bicycle’ 130 years ago? To answer, I need to take you back further once again to a summer’s day in 2015. I was on Strictly and, in a state of exhaustion, tookmyself o for a therapeutic co ee and cake onmy local high street. Tomy surprise, as I sat there stretchingmy legs across the pavement, aman sailed past on a penny-farthing. I wrestled withmy phone to take a photo, then I realised the key thing was just to enjoy themoment. As I looked around, I saw that everyone else on the street had stopped to watch. The man himself was a little green faced, and wearing a grimly determined expression, but themoment was magical. “One day,” I thought, “I’mgoing to do that.”When inspiration nudgedme a couple of years later, I found a gentleman called Roger inMiddlesbrough who sourced a penny-farthing with a 56-inch wheel from, I think, China. It was all going well – and actually quite a lot of people were laughing – until my upside-down star jump over the handlebars caused by hitting a grass divot in west London. So now the question is: “Why have you climbed back on it?” The honest answer is that I love it somuch I couldn’t wait. The only di erence is that my beaming expression has turned a little grimmer and a little greener, and I understand better the nervous determination of theman who passedme on the high street seven years ago. Howmy beloved penny-farthing inspired smiles, stares and soreness Illustration: Olivia Waller/Folioart MY WEEK Jeremy Vine

6 10 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover j l There are toomany jarring juxtapositions in the world right now. The super-yachts moored yards fromdinghies carrying desperate people fromdesperate situations. The profits of energy companies, set against the choice to heat or eat. Donated clothes at refugee centres on the borders of an invaded country versus the sashaying of the catwalks at Paris FashionWeek, only a few hours flight away. Couture fashion is an easy target for ridicule. But to dismiss its ephemeral first-world influencemight be missing a point, because it tells us something about where we all are right now. Many kinds of creativity do that. I had the pleasure of meetingMichelle Ogundehin this week. She talked about her work in the world of interiors as the former editor of Elle Decoration and judge of BBC’s Interior DesignMasters. She said that this year, ‘colour drenching’ is the thing to watch out for – big swathes of colour splashed on walls and floors and ceilings. The brighter the better. And this year’s catwalks reflect this in amanner. At the house of Dior, a bit of history is being emphasised. Dior was home to the NewLook after the SecondWorld War – an hourglass silhouette that emulated poise and glamour after the enforced utilitarianismand scrimping of the war years. This season, designerMaria Grazia Chiuri sent models down the catwalk with a familiar nipped in waist and peplum jacket, but with an airbag. MGC has collaborated with D-Air Lab, an extreme sports clothing brand who usually design to keep Arctic explorers safe. “Why shouldn’t beauty combine with performance?” asksMGC. There are also ankle protectors to wear with kitten heels. As a short woman who’s teetered for toomany years, I welcome those with open arms. Admittedly, opening those arms might set o the air bags too. It’s not just Dior – Balenciaga released a hi vis jacket last year, just like the ones you’d wear if you were repairing theM42. It costs £3,000. I’ll leave it to those who have cash to burn. But, for the rest of us, noting these designer foibles does say something – that we’re scared and we need all the protection we can get. And actually, that’s not a bad thing to see, discuss and recognise, in whatever place it’s presented to us. ‘Couture is an easy target for ridicule. But to dismiss its first-world influence might be missing a point’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover The sight and sound of red and gold bangles clinking against ametal pan; the feel and fragrance of a spice-filled kitchen; her mother’s smile. Whenever KalpnaWoolf cooks dhal, these are thememories she stirs up. “Whenmymumwas dying, themost terrible thing was not being able to see her. Until lockdown, my sisters and I had taken turns to cook, deliver and feed her lunch every day,” says the food writer and editor, whosemother, then living in a London care home, died fromCovid in 2020. “I suddenly foundmyself cooking all these dishes of hers – some of which I hadn’t made for years, others I hadn’t ever made before – and sharing them withmy sisters. It not only brought backmemories, I found it a genuine comfort – it showedme, yet again, the incredible power of food.” The ability of a signature dish to connect and comfort us is the theme of Kalpna’s new book, Eat, Share, Love. Part cookbook, part memoir, it’s a collation of recipes and real-life stories fromUK home cooks, each bringing a di erent culinary heritage to the table. There’s a recipe for Bosnian breskvice, dinky peach-shaped cakes baked for special occasions, which transports Dino Zelenika Food has the power to unite us with our pasts and to other people. That’s KalpnaWoolf ’s core message in her new cookbook, Eat, Share, Love, as she tells Alice Ryan Connecting through the comfort of food straight to his childhood home inMostar. And Eritrean zigni, a spiced beef stewwhich reminds Negat Hussein of her mum, who, havingmigrated to Sweden, habituallymade it in vats and shared it with her neighbours. The Cypriot meat-and-potatoes staple antinaxto krasato was passed down to Athanasis Lazarides by his motherMaria, who brought it to the UK aged 16, after family finances compelled her to emigrate alone. And a quintessentially English rhubarb crumble takes Beth Osborne back to her Grandma Hare’s country kitchen, where they’d slice fruit harvested fresh from the garden and dust it with sugar froma green glass shaker. Having spent 25 years with the BBC – latterly overseeing all the broadcaster’s cookery series, a role which saw her work withNigella Lawson, Lorraine Pascale and The Hairy Bikers – Kalpna says losing her mother gave her the final push to publish the book. But the concept, she explains, originated with 91Ways to Build a Global City, the charity she founded six years ago on leaving the BBC. “I’d read a Census statistic that there were 91 di erent languages spoken in Bristol, my home city,” says Kalpna. “It’s a beautiful city but very siloed – by class, by ethnicity, by wealth. I knew food could cross those divides: everybody, fromany and every background, understands that when seeking joy Kalpna Woolf ’s new cookbook celebrates treasured recipes that evoke warmth and reassurance Photography: Rob Wicks, Paul Gregory, Getty Images

7 10 MARCH 202 2 7 QUESTIONS WITH… ALEX KAPRANOS The Franz Ferdinand frontman on inventing soups and turning 50 1 What did you want to be when you were little? A punk rocker. The guys on Top of the Pops looked like they were having a great time and I wanted to do that too. 2 Favourite career moment so far? T in the Park, 2004. Suddenly, we’d gone from playing to a couple of hundred people to tens of thousands, all jumping up and down and going crazy. It was a surreal moment and a lovely one. 3 What’s the greatest hit on your new greatest hits album? All of them! But most people probably know the band from Take Me Out. I never get sick of playing it – it’s a banger. 4 Most expensive thing in your wardrobe? I’m wearing it right now. It’s a silk and cashmere dressing gown I was given after modelling it in a photo shoot. It’s one of those things you walk around in thinking: “I’m fancy.” 5 We hear you’re an excellent cook? I cook to unwind and like making stuff up. Yesterday, I dug up some parsnips and invented a parsnip and walnut soup. My bandmates are always trying to persuade me to go on Celebrity MasterChef. 6 Best and worst food you’ve tasted on tour? Both were in the US. I love proper fried chicken – there’s a place called Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken in Memphis and it’s amazing. The worst was service station hot dogs. You didn’t want to know what was in them. 7 Any qualms about turning 50 this month? No! I love being the age I am. I’ve enjoyed my life so far and I fully intend to enjoy the rest of it. Hits to the Head by Franz Ferdinand is out on 11 March. Interview: Emma Higginbotham centuries, adds Kalpna, “toMoghul influences, the time of Alexander the Great”. Her creamy butter chicken, which shemakes for every occasion, “was probably served to emperors – I like to think it was”. The dish will likely be on the table next weekend, along with her sister’s special pilau, decorated with fans of sliced eggs and tomatoes, andmalpura, stacks of small sweetened pancakes drizzled with syrup. The feast will markHoli – which falls on 18March – the Hindu spring festival famed for colour-throwing, a tradition which sees people dancing through the streets covered head to toe in powder paints. “The streets are filled with colour and so are our tables,” says Kalpna. “Mymother lovedHoli and so do I. We’ve always got together, siblings, children and now grandchildren, for colour throwing and, of course, for food. “It’s the celebration of a new year, of good things to come. I see it as a celebration of hope.” With profits from the sales of Eat, Share, Love going to 91Ways, Kalpna’s personal hope is, she adds, to see the organisation “roll out in cities across the UK, bridging divides through the simple act of sharing our food and our stories”. “If Covid has taught us anything,” observes Kalpna, “it’s surely that we are stronger together.” Eat, Share, Love: Our Cherished Recipes and the Stories Behind Them (Meze) by KalpnaWoolf is out now. 91ways.org togetherness and hope Kalpna with her parents ( far left); walnuts, dates and apricots (main); Dino Zelenika’s breskvice (top); keema kofte (above right) you o er a plate of food, it’s an act of kindness.” On the basis that sharing food leads to the sharing of stories and, ultimately, a shared understanding, Kalpna began 91Ways with a series of pop-ups, a di erent cook sharing their culture and cuisine each time. “We put out signs saying ‘free food’ and people came,” she says. Funded by grants, cookery lessons for schoolchildren and the elderly followed, then a food parcel service during the lockdowns. Barriers have been broken and friendships forged. A desire to unite people through food is, reflects Kalpna, in her blood. Her mother and father came fromneighbouring Indian towns “at a time when Hindus lived happily cheek by jowl with their Muslimneighbours. They were schooled together, worked together, feasted together”. In the wake of Partition, which saw the region become part of Pakistan, her parents fled to NewDelhi before settling in London’s Southall, where her father subsequently founded the first Hindu temple. Operating an ‘open door policy’, everyone was welcome at their house and therefore at their table: “Everybody had to be fed! There was a constant bustle, running in and out of the kitchen.” The family’s recipe repertoire dates back ‘Everybody understands that when you o er a plate of food, it’s an act of kindness’

HELPING THOSE WHOSE LIVES HAVE BEEN TORN APART IN UKRAINE Just days after we announced the ärst steps we are taking to help those affected by the humanitarian situation in Ukraine – you’ve helped us raise £1 million for the British Red Cross’s Ukraine appeal. As Waitrose Weekend went to press, donations were still rising rapidly thanks to the incredible generosity of customers and our employees (Partners). This includes a donation of £100,000 from the John Lewis Partnership and a further £150,000 of matched funding. The money will be used to provide food, water, medicine, warm clothing and shelter to those whose lives have been torn apart. Speaking as we announced the start of our efforts to help, John Lewis Partnership Chairman Sharon White said: “I am deeply distressed by the humanitarian crisis unfolding in Ukraine – innocent people losing their lives, their loved ones, their homes and families being separated. “We all share common humanity and all conåicts – near and far – strike at the heart of our values.” Mike Adamson, chief executive of the British Red Cross, said: “The Red Cross is responding to the unfolding crisis in Ukraine. People are losing their homes and lives; families are being separated, people are åeeing the country. “Donations will help us reach displaced people in Ukraine and those åeeing to neighbouring countries with food, water, medicine, medical equipment and other essentials. We are hugely grateful to the John Lewis Partnership for our longstanding partnership on disasters and emergencies as well as this generous support for the Ukraine appeal.”

9 10 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Farming gets a hand from the final frontier As grass starts growing in the spring and farmers turn out their livestock to graze the fresh growth, theymight want to cast their eyes skywards – not to the clouds, but to space. Information beamed from satellites overhead has the potential to ‘revolutionise’ grass management, according to the architects of a new digital tool. It will draw on satellite images of individual fields combined with weather information and algorithms to provide regular updates on how grassland is performing, as well as its potential to store carbon. “Some satellites go over on a daily basis, some on a weekly basis and the latest ones can see through cloud,” explains Steve Keyworth, director at Environment Systems, which is collaborating with Innovative Farmers and The University of Edinburgh for the two-year trial. “We’remeasuring biomass: the green. Howmuch grass is there? You can turn that into feed value and work out whether farmers will have enough or need to supplement.” They currently use a handheld tool Go peat-free and protect our precious habitats ‘Some satellites go over on a daily basis, some on a weekly basis and the latest ones can see through cloud’ EYES IN THE SKIES Satellites can help farmers with their grass management Nutrient-rich andwith the ability to hold water, peat – the partially decomposed remains of ancient plants and animals – has long been used by gardeners for their compost. But those very qualities are what make peatlands such precious habitats. Home to a unique ecosystemof flora and fauna, they also store carbon: globally, peatlands sequest twice as much carbon as the world’s forests. Harvesting peat not only destroys wildlife havens, but releases harmful greenhouse gases. Stored carbon becomes CO2 and is lost to the atmosphere forever, contributing directly to climate change. New analysis by TheWildlife Trusts estimates asmuch as 31million tonnes of CO2 could have been released into the atmosphere since 1990 as a direct result of using peat in horticulture. Peat extracted in 2020 alone could release 880,000 tonnes of CO2 – the equivalent of driving a car for 2.2 billionmiles. “These losses are gigantic, irrecoverable and unjustifiable,” says AilisWatt, peat o cer at TheWildlife Trusts. “Extracting peat is bad for our climate andwildlife. The UK is already one of themost nature-depleted countries in the world, and extracting peat destroys complex ecosystems vital for nature’s recovery. It has to stop.” Fromnext week, the entireWaitrose range of bagged gardening compost will be peat-free, and the UK andWelsh governments are conducting a public consultation on ending the use of peat in the retail sector by 2024. However, TheWildlife Trusts is calling for an immediate ban, saying that waiting another two years could addmore than 1.5million tonnes of CO2 to the atmosphere, and do further damage to declining species and habitats. Emma Higginbotham called a rising platemeter tomeasure their grass in a few spots, but this new approach will bemore comprehensive. A carbon budget model developed at Edinburgh University will also show farmers the carbon stored in vegetation and soil, and how that changes throughout the year. Called Pastoral, the project is looking for livestock farmers to help co-design the cutting edge tool. They can sign up at Innovative Farmers (innovativefarmers.org) – a research network funded by The Prince of Wales’s Charitable Fund through sales of Waitrose Duchy Organic products – which is coordinating the field trials. Anna-Marie Julyan HELPING HEDGEHOGS A new report on hedgehog numbers has found that the national population is stabilising, and may even be recovering in urban areas. Actions such as making ‘hedgehog highways’ – access holes in garden fences and walls – and the creation of more than 100,000 volunteer hedgehog champions have helped, according to the report’s authors. But they warn against complacency, as rural numbers have declined by at least 30% since 2000. hedgehogstreet.org Photography: Copernicus, Soil Association, Shutterstock, Getty Images

10 MARCH 202 2 10 NEWS&VI EWS Steve Backshall isn’t afraid of danger. Click on the explorer and naturalist’s website and you’ll find himencircled by a fat python, kayaking through lumps of Arctic ice, dangling froma treacherous rockface and chatting with a wolf. Dig deeper and you’ll discover he has been stalked by a polar bear, swumwith sharks (without a cage, obviously), broken his back in a climbing accident and, on several occasions, come face-to-face with death. At least the 48-year-old will be on safer ground when he hosts SevenWorlds, One Planet Live in Concert at the O2 later this month. “I certainly hope so,” says Steve. “Unless a lighting rig falls onmy head.” Based on the landmark 2019 BBC series narrated by Sir David Attenborough, it’s a celebration of the wildlife that thrives on each of the seven continents. “It was one of the grandest andmost ambitious series that the Natural History Unit have ever done, which is saying something. They’ve condensed it into two segments, and it’s going to play on a giant screen with an 80-piece live orchestra, a choir – andme!” he laughs. “They’re not expectingme to fill the shoes of Sir David, thank God, but I will be the host.” He’ll do a cracking job. Perhaps TV’s most amiable tough guy, Steve is best known for Deadly 60, the Bafta-winning CBBC show adored by children in which he trots the globe in search of nature’s 60most predatory animals. Given that it’s been running for nearly 15 years, he’s met manymore killer creatures than that. “It’s been going long enough now that the kids who watched it way back in 2007 are now going to university, and not hundreds but thousands are getting in touch, saying, ‘I’ve just graduated withmy BSc inmarine biology and I only wanted to do it because I watched your programmes,’” he says. “It puts a lump inmy throat every time. It’s themost satisfying part of this whole journey – that in some small way, it has made a di erence.” Steve’s own fascination with animals and adventure stems fromboyhood. Growing up with his younger sister in Bagshot, Surrey, he was an outdoorsy child: “I was very lucky in that my parents were too. Neither of them finished school, and they certainly didn’t study biology, as I have, but they loved the outdoors, nature, animals,” he says. They lived on a smallholding, surrounded by rescue animals ranging fromdonkeys to peacocks, and because his parents worked as ground sta for British Airways, a generous travel allowancemeant the family hot-footed around the globe. “We had a crazy childhood. We weren’t loaded – we’re not the kind of people who normally would get to go to farflung places – but we went everywhere,” he says. Including Zimbabwe where, aged seven, Steve had a seminal experience. “We had a local guide who seemed to be omnipotent,” he recalls. “He’d reach down into the dust, pick up a dropping, rub it between his fingers and say: ‘Ah yes, a warthog came past this way two days ago pursued by some lions.’ And you come round the corner and there would be the carcass of the warthog. It was breathtaking, like having SherlockHolmes in our midst. I wanted to be him, and I guess it’s not too far away from where I’ve actually ended up.” After an adventurous gap year backpacking and a degree at Exeter University, Steve went into travel journalism. It didn’t go as well as he hoped. “I had an absolute shocker,” he grins. “I hadmy first big piece in the press when I was 17, 18, and I felt like I was the bee’s knees. And then inmy early twenties I was back home, living withMumand Dad, working in bars and as a kitchen porter because I couldn’t paymy bills. “Then I had a brainwave of getting a video camera, going to Colombia and basically filmingmyself. I sold it to National Geographic and out of nowhere, I went from being a struggling travel writer to being their ‘adventurer in residence’, literally overnight. “I can remember the excitement now,” he continues. “The vice president gaveme his credit card and said, ‘Go o and film these expeditions yourself, and bringme back the films,’ and I had thousands of ideas running throughmy head. That was the big turning point inmy life. It all just fell into place and I never looked back.” After five years at National Geographic, Stevemoved to BBCOne’s The ReallyWild Show, followed by Deadly 60. With such a lethal-sounding title, you’d think his life was Naturalist Steve Backshall tells Emma Higginbotham about his journey to becoming a broadcasting behemoth, brushes with death and why Sir David Attenborough is irreplaceable ‘I am, without question, not an adrenalin junkie’ ‘Hippos are one of the most unpredictable animals. I’ve had encounters that have been way too close’

10 MARCH 202 2 11 Photography: Tom Jackson

12 10 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS perpetually under threat frompiranhas and scorpions, but apparently not. “People would be surprised at how few really dangerous moments we’ve had with animals; there have been far more with human beings – with near car accidents or gettingmugged. “But there have been a couple of close ones,” he admits. “Hippos are one of themost unpredictable animals and I’ve had a few encounters that have been way too close.” Diving withNile crocodiles alongside his cameraman in Botswana also proved way too close to danger: “A four-and-a-half metre male croc came straight at us. It would have taken the tiniest of munches and I wouldn’t be here. We’ve not dived with big crocs again, and I never will.” But his worst moment didn’t involve animals. Filming the series Expedition in the Himalayas in 2018, Steve flipped his kayak and spent nearly fiveminutes upside-down in glacial water. “That really was a near- death experience – the closest I have come. I thought I was going to drown, I thought I was gone. I was just very lucky that my pal Sal Montgomery hauledme out.” At the time Steve’s wife, double Olympic goldmedal-winning rower Helen Glover, had recently given birth to their son Logan, after losing his twin in pregnancy. It made the moment evenmore potent for Steve. “In that situation, you think far more about what the end game would be, and so that was really a ecting. It really hit me quite hard.” The couple have since had twins Kit and Willow, who turned two in January. Has becoming a dadmade himmore wary of taking risks? “I would say so. It’s di cult, becausemy view of risk is very di erent to what most people’s would be! I amwithout question not an adrenalin junkie. The fear and the adrenalin hit is an unfortunate sidee ect, at best. I’ve probably come closer to dying on cameramore times than anybody else in TV history, but I don’t seek it!” So howwould he feel if they decided to follow in Daddy’s footsteps? “Oh God, it makes me feel sick even thinking about it, let alone the possibility theymight be stupid enough to actually go out and do some of the things that I did,” he laughs. “But how am I ever going to tell themnot to? I amgoing to have so little grounds to ever lecturemy kids on anything when they get older. “But at the same time, my life has brought me somuch joy, and somany incredible opportunities, I’m torn. I would be beside myself if any of my kids decided they wanted to dive with big sharks, but I can’t possibly hold themback.” For themoment, though, watching rather than experiencing the world’s wildlife is all that most of us can achieve, and shows like SevenWorlds, One Planet Live in Concert are impressive ways to do it. “With all of these blue-chip natural history programmes, it is the opportunity to see our natural world at its very best, to be overwhelmed with its majesty, and that’s why it lends itself so well to a big-screen live presentation,” says Steve. “It will potentially be quite an emotional experience.” It was certainly an emotional series. As well as showing nature in all its glory, it didn’t shy away fromhighlighting the devastation wreaked by climate change: scenes included a freezing albatross chick trying desperately to clamber back into its nest, and walruses – driven onto overcrowded land because of themelting ice – falling to their deaths froma cli . Are people going to be crying in the aisles? “I hope so. We will have done our jobs if there’s not a dry eye in the house.” Because people need to knowwe’re killing the planet? Steve pauses.“The job these programmes do probably better than anything else is to inspire wonder,” he says. “Jacques Cousteau said people protect what they love, and first and foremost what we need to do is to draw people to the natural world. “We’re at a crux point, because there has been this turn in wildlife filmmaking towards negativity and a sense of doom, which people can find really o -putting. So we need to find out where the balance is, where we can ethically stand in a position where we are telling the truth without alienating our audience, and also letting themknow there’s something they can do.” There’s no doubt that people will listen to Steve, so does he secretly fancy being the next Sir David Attenborough? “There will never be another Sir David. He is the greatest broadcaster of all time. Nobody can tell a tale and have a roomful of hardened biologists and cynics all weeping into their hankies like he does. He will never be replaced. “And themedia landscape is di erent now,” he adds. “There is never again going to be just one broadcasting powerhouse, there will be several hundred thousand voices on somany di erent platforms, and I would love to be one of them. “I try to keep up with the changing ways that people are telling stories now, even though TikTokmakes me feel like a 90-year-old. I hope that I can keep this career going for as long as possible, because I still love it,” he concludes. “It’s been such a weird and wonderfully tangled journey to get here, but if it was to end tomorrow, I don’t have any regrets.” ACTION MAN Steve met Helen at a Sport Relief event in 2014; they married two years later and live with their three children in Buckinghamshire. As well as a TV presenter, naturalist, explorer and mountaineer, Steve’s CV includes educator, author of 12 books, marathon runner and martial arts black belt. “I always ägured that I would need to settle on just one thing,” he says, “but I’m nearly 50 and that hasn’t happened yet.” ‘Dancer’ is no longer on the list, however. Despite making it to week nine of Strictly with partner Ola Jordan in 2014, he says he now sticks to ‘dad dancing’ at weddings. ‘I am going to have such little grounds to ever lecture my kids on anything when they get older’ SevenWorlds, One Planet Live in Concert, 02, London, 31March. For tickets and info, visit seven-worlds-one-planet-live.co.uk planet backshall ( from top) Steve swims with a hippo during filming for Deadly 60 in 2009; wife and professional rower Helen Glover and their three children; dancing with Ola Jordan in Strictly Come Dancing, 2014 Photography: Rosie Gloyns, backshall.steve/Instagram, Guy Levy / BBC

10 MARCH 202 2 13 FOOD&DRINK Festival flavours Mallika Basu’s Holi menu stars a pretty thandai cocktail p16 Zero hero The producers of Toast ale are making beer out of unused bread p18 No waste Elly Curshen’s eco-aware recipes for FoodWaste ActionWeek p22 Photography: Tom Regester Food Styling: Jennifer Joyce Props Styling: Rosie Jenkins

10 MARCH 202 2 14 To make delicious and nutritious choices, look for our Good Health label FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Healthy Every Day Our guest chef this week (p16) is one of my favourite cooks, Mallika Basu, who grew up in Kolkata and came to England as a student, not knowing how to boil an egg and armed with just two of her mother’s recipes – a chicken curry and a dhal. She taught herself to replicate the delicious, wholesome food she grew up with, and now she’s known for cooking that’s full of authentic åavours, but quick and easy to make. The menu she’s put together for us in celebration of the Hindu festival of Holi is inspired by recipes from her childhood, and her memories of the celebrations made me chuckle. ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Gochujang beef stir fry with rice noodles Serves 4 Prepare 5 minutes + marinating Cook 10 minutes 2½ tbsp gochujang chilli paste 1 tbsp honey 1½ tbsp low salt light soya sauce 1½ tbsp Chinese rice vinegar 300g pack Aberdeen Angus beef frying steak 100g rice vermicelli noodles 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 300g pack superbright stir fry 100g beansprouts 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted 1 Combine the gochujang, honey, soya and rice vinegar in a bowl. Cut the beef into änger-width strips and add to the bowl. Mix well, then leave to sit for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cook the noodles according to pack instructions, then drain and set aside. 2 Heat ½ tbsp sesame oil in a wok or large frying pan over a high heat. Add the beef, leaving any residual marinade in the bowl. Fry for 2-3 minutes, then remove to a bowl with the juices. 3 Add the stir fry mix to the wok and cook according to pack instructions, with an extra drizzle of sesame oil. Return the beef, any cooking juices, and remaining marinade to the wok together with the beansprouts and toss well until piping hot and cooked through. Stir in the noodles to heat through, then pile into bowls, topping with a scattering of sesame seeds to serve. Per serving 1471kJ/350kcals/12g fat/3.1g saturated fat/33g carbs/8g sugars/2.5g äbre/27g protein/0.9g salt/1 of your 5 a day Low in saturated fat Mediterranean vegetables & Greek cheese with beans Serves 4 Prepare 5 minutes Cook 30 minutes 500g frozen grilled vegetable mix 200g Essential 50% Reduced Fat Greek Salad Cheese 1 tbsp olive oil ¼ x 15g pack oregano, leaves only ½ tsp chilli åakes, plus extra to serve 1 lemon, ½ thinly sliced, ½ juiced 2 x 400g cans cannellini beans, drained 150ml fresh vegetable stock ½ x 90g pack wild rocket 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C, gas mark 7. Pour the vegetable mix into a large baking tray then nestle the Greek salad cheese into the middle. 2 Drizzle with ½ tbsp olive oil, then scatter with the oregano and chilli åakes. Tuck the lemon slices around the pan and squeeze the lemon juice over the tray. Season and bake for 25 minutes. 3 Stir the beans and stock through the vegetables, breaking up the cheese into large chunks. Bake for another 5 minutes to warm the beans through, then stir in the rocket and drizzle with the remaining oil. Divide between 4 plates and garnish with extra chilli åakes to serve, if liked. V Per serving 1340kJ/320kcals/11g fat/5.1g saturated fat/30g carbs/9.2g sugars/11g äbre/21g protein/1.7g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day/gluten free High in protein Cook’s tip We have lots of different combinations of vegetables in our range of stir fry packs, so why not ring the changes each time you try this recipe to änd your favourite combination? Cook’s tip Try other canned beans or pulses in place of the cannellini beans. And in place of rocket you could use up other salad leaves in the fridge.

10 MARCH 202 2 15 CASHBACK ON GOOD HEALTH FOODS FOR VITALITY MEMBERS If you are a Vitality member with a myWaitrose card, you can receive up to 25% cashback onWaitrose food that carries the Good Health label – visit vitality.co.uk for details. Recipes: Katie Marshall Photography: Hannah Hughes Food Styling: Jennifer Joyce Props Styling: Wei Tang Cook’s tip Eggs are high in protein and a good source of vitamin D, which regulates calcium and phosphorus absorption to aid healthy bones, muscle and teeth. Other vitamin D sources include fortiäed breakfast cereals and spreads, soya drinks (dairy alternatives), oily äsh and pork. Cook’s tip If time is pressing you could use some of our Cooks’ Ingredients Diced Sweet Potato, where all the work of peeling and chopping has been done for you. Alternatively, use one of our prepared fresh or frozen packs. Cook’s tip Chorizo or other cured meats would work well in place of the bacon in this recipe, or for something meat-free try frying diced halloumi or smoked tofu until crisp instead – a little oil would be needed to do this and get the pieces golden and crisp. Leek & haddock omelette sou é Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 1 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tsp extra for dressing 1 leek, thinly sliced 100ml half fat crème fraîche, plus extra to serve 100ml milk 240g pack traditionally smoked haddock ällets 6 British Blacktail Free Range Medium Eggs, separated 1 tbsp åour ½ x 25g pack chives, änely chopped 150g watercress 1 lemon, cut into wedges, to serve 1 Warm a medium ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat with ½ tbsp olive oil. Fry the leek for 5-6 minutes, until soft. Remove from the pan. Mix together the crème fraîche and milk then add to the pan with the haddock. Simmer for 6-8 minutes, turning the äsh, until opaque. Transfer the äsh to a plate with a slotted spoon and lightly åake. 2 Combine the egg yolks and åour in a large bowl. Add the warm milk mixture with the leeks and chives. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks with electric beaters, then fold into the yolk mix. Wipe the pan clean, add the remaining oil and return to the heat. 3 Preheat the grill to medium. Add ½ the egg mixture to the pan then scatter with the haddock. Top with the remaining egg mixture and place over a low heat. Cook for 5-6 minutes, until the top starts to set. Place under the grill for 3-4 minutes, until golden. Leave in the pan for 2 minutes, then serve in wedges with extra crème fraîche, watercress and lemon wedges to squeeze over. Per serving 1122kJ/269kcals/15g fat/5.5g saturated fat/7.4g carbs/3.5g sugars/2.3g äbre/24g protein/1.3g salt/2.4μg vitamin d/1 of your 5 a day High in vitamin D Chicken traybake with sweet potato mash Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 2 medium courgettes, cut into 1cm slices 1 red onion, cut into wedges 3 cloves garlic, 2 sliced, 1 crushed 50g low-fat cream cheese 40g red pesto 4 chicken thigh ällets ½ tbsp olive oil 300g sweet potato, peeled and cut into 2cm chunks ½ x 20g pack tarragon, leaves only, roughly chopped 1 Preheat the oven to 220°C, gas mark 7. Place the courgette, onion and sliced garlic in a baking tray. Mix all but 1 tsp of the cream cheese in a bowl with the pesto. 2 Open out the chicken ällets and put a spoonful of the pesto mixture inside each one. Roll up and place in the baking tray. Drizzle with oil and season. Bake for 25 minutes, or until thoroughly cooked, the juices run clear and there is no pink meat. 3 Meanwhile, cook the sweet potatoes in boiling water for 15 minutes, or until tender. Drain, then mash with the reserved cream cheese, crushed garlic and seasoning. Divide between warm plates. Stir the tarragon through the roasted vegetables, then serve with the chicken and mash, spooning any cooking juices over the top. Per serving 2272kJ/541kcals/20g fat/5.7g saturated fat/51g carbs/30g sugars/8.7g äbre/35g protein/0.7g salt/ source of äbre 3 of your 5 a day Lentil & tomato stew with bacon Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 2 rashers unsmoked back bacon ½ tsp garam masala 400g can chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato purée ½ low salt vegetable or chicken stock cube (dissolved in 50ml boiling water) 400g can Essential Lentils ½ x 25g pack coriander, roughly chopped 2 tbsp low-fat Greek-style yogurt 2 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Crispy Fried Onions 1 Place a medium frying pan over a medium heat. Add the bacon and fry for 3-4 minutes, until crispy and the fat has been released. Remove with tongs to a plate lined with kitchen paper. 2 Reduce the heat and add the garam masala to the pan. Fry for 15 seconds, or until fragrant, then add the chopped tomatoes, tomato purée, stock and lentils. Simmer for 15 minutes, or until thickened. Season, stir through most of the coriander then ladle into bowls. 3 Roughly chop the bacon. Top the lentil stew with a spoonful of yogurt, then a scattering of onions, bacon and the remaining coriander to serve. Per serving 1089kJ/260kcals/8.7g fat/3g saturated fat/25g carbs/8.6g sugars/8.2g äbre/17g protein/1g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day High in äbre

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