Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 591

FREE Your regular edition of Weekend is inside 100 Top tips and helpful hacks to cut the amount we throw away and support the fight against climate change WAY S TO R E D U C E F OOD WA S T E 7-13 MARCH FOOD WASTE ACTION WEEK SUPPORTING AGAINST PARTNERS

3 MARCH 202 2 2 100 WAYS TO REDUCE FOOD WASTE Around a third of the food we produce globally is wasted, which has a direct impact on climate change. That’s why anti-waste charity Wrap is hosting the second annual Food Waste Action Week from 7-13 March. The aim is to support the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal of halving food waste by 2030. Everyone can play their part, so here are 100 ideas to help make the most of the food you buy THE FRUIT BOWL 1 When you have more fruit than you need, make smoothie packs for the freezer. Bananas, mangoes and plums all work well. Cut fruit into small pieces, then pop a selection into a freezer bag. When you’re ready to make your smoothie, add a little juice, milk or natural yogurt to make the frozen fruit easier to blend. 2 Stew fruit that needs eating to make a crumble or compote to add to plain yogurt. Stewed fruit will keep for äve days in the fridge, and also freezes well. 3 Once a pineapple has been cut up, store the pieces in an airtight container for a few days in the fridge to stop them from going brown, or freeze them. 4 Bananas are one of our most wasted food products. UK households throw away 920,000 every day. Freeze overripe bananas in chunks for an instant ‘ice cream’, then blend from frozen with a little peanut butter. 5 “That lonely looking apple or pear will be lovely chopped up and heated through in a saucepan with some butter, brown sugar and cinnamon – a perfect porridge topper,” says Rukmini Iyer, author of the Roasting Tin series. 6 Store berries dry in the fridge, and wash them only just before eating. Any sooner and the residual water will cause them to spoil. 7 Waitrose Cookery School chefs suggest making lollies with overripe fruit – heat in a pan with a little water and honey, then blitz and pour into moulds. 8 Make banana pancakes. Mix two overripe bananas, two eggs and ¼ tsp baking powder. Drop small amounts of the mixture into an oiled pan for two minutes each side. 9 Keep unripe mangoes out of the fridge, but once ripened, you can move to the fridge to slow down the ripening process. 10 Did you know that you can freeze citrus fruit? If you’re only using half a lemon, cut the rest into slices, freeze åat on a tray then bag ready for use, or freeze in ice cube trays with water for a tasty addition to drinks. 11 Glut of berries? Freeze loose on a tray (so they don’t stick together) then bag up and keep in the freezer. You can use them in puddings, on porridge or just blend from frozen with yogurt and honey. EAT YOUR GREENS 12 Salad leaves or celery looking sad? Try plunging into icecold water for 15-20 minutes, then drain to bring them back to life. 13 Rocket or other dark green leaves can be frozen from fresh and added to sauces, stir fries and wilted, as you would spinach. 14 Serve leftover salad leaves by wilting them on the plate under a cooked ället of äsh. 15 Don’t chuck the tough stalks from greens, say Waitrose Cookery School chefs – slowly braise them in stock for a tasty side. 16 Slightly overripe avocados are great for guacamole, or freeze yours whole, half or diced and mashed with a squeeze of lemon to be used at a later date. 17 Tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers which need using make a great homemade salsa. 18 Roughly chop any remaining coriander leaves and stalks, then freeze them to add to future cooking straight from frozen. 19 Asparagus stays fresher for longer if you stand spears in a glass with 2.5cm water, cover loosely with a plastic bag and keep chilled. 20 If you have a big bag of spinach, wilt it down in a little butter while super-fresh – it’ll keep for longer in the fridge. 21 Make a veggie stock. Save scraps – like the butts and peelings of carrots, papery garlic skins and pepper cores – in the freezer or for a few days in the fridge. Then simmer with a bay leaf and any herbs lying around. 22 Reuse your juicer pulp. For veg such as celery and carrot, leftover pulp makes a great base for soups and stews. Just fry in a little olive oil with onion and garlic. 23 Store soft herbs like parsley and coriander in a jar or glass with 2.5cm water in the fridge, or at room temperature for basil. 24 Once the last gherkin has been eaten, don’t discard the brine – cut a cucumber in half lengthways and slice. Fill the jar, ensuring the cucumber is completely covered in the liquid, then pop in the fridge, and after a couple of days you’ll have pickled cucumber. 25 There’s no need to throw away watercress stalks – they have a deliciously peppery åavour. Try änely chopping them to stir through a tomato pasta sauce, or fold into mayonnaise to serve alongside chicken or äsh. 26 “When you have accumulated enough valuable scraps, whether they are meat or vegetables, remember that you can freeze them to make a nice broth, soup or stew another day,” says zero-waste chef and Silo founder Douglas McMaster. ROOTS AND OTHER VEG 27 Root veg going to waste? Slice thinly and deep-fry in 190ºC oil until golden. Season with salt for chunky homemade crisps. 28 Revive and crisp carrots by cutting a slice off the bottom and placing them in a glass of water. 29 “Forget about peeling your spuds or indeed any veg, which avoids waste and saves money and time, while providing extra nutrients,” says Juliane Caillouette-Noble from the Sustainable Restaurant Association (SRA). 30 If you are keen to peel your spuds, make potato peel fries. Drop the peelings into a bowl of cold water to prevent them from turning brown and to rinse off the excess starch. Pat dry on kitchen paper, then deep fry in vegetable oil until crisp. Serve with a simple soured cream and chive dip. 31 Try this nifty trick from Waitrose Cookery School for ginger peelings: dry in a low oven and store in an airtight container for ginger tea. Or any leftover ginger can be thinly sliced (no need to peel it) and infused with hot water for instant tea. TOO GOOD TO WASTE Cover Photography: Photographer: Aaron Tiley Prop Stylist: Wei Tang Food Stylist: Camilla Wordie

3 MARCH 202 2 3 39 Keep leftover veg in boxes or bags at the front of the fridge, preferably at eye level, where you’re more likely to notice them. MAKE MORE FROM MEAT AND F I SH 40 Transform leftover shepherd’s pie by wrapping it in ready-made puff pastry, baking until piping hot throughout and serving with brown sauce. A pie in a pie! 41 Strip your chicken. Once you’ve had your roast, take your cooled chicken frame and tear all the meat off the bone. Don’t forget the legs, the wings and the dark meat on the back. There is far more meat than you think, and it’s ideal too for a salad, pie or burrito.* 42 Make stock with your stripped carcass, which you can turn into chicken soup by adding veg, leftover chicken and a pulse, pasta or grain. A little miso paste will add umami depth. 43 Leftover roast pork is the perfect meat to create tacos. Turn it into strips and åavour it with sautéed onions, peppers and a little chipotle paste.* 44 Try different meats. Waitrose is committed to buying whole carcasses from farmers, so nothing is wasted. You can try ox cheek, beef short ribs and calves’ liver from its range. 45 Serve strips of leftover beef with pappardelle pasta, or turn it into beef stroganoff.* Even easier, pile beef slices onto soft white bread with plenty of mustard mayonnaise and rocket for the ultimate sandwich. 46 Consider buying frozen äsh. It’s often cheaper than fresh, and you can take as much as you need straight from the freezer. 47 If you have leftover cooked beef or lamb, chop it up and stir in lots of fried onions, garlic and herbs, says chef and Wahaca founder Thomasina Miers. “With this, I’ll make a shepherd’s pie but instead of topping with mash, I use coarsely grated parsnips and carrots. It’s less faff and tastes delicious, and also uses up any stray root vegetables.”* 48 Blend leftover smoked mackerel with lemon juice and a touch of Greek yogurt or cream cheese for a delicious sandwich äller, pâté or dip. Dill and freshly ground black pepper are tasty additions. 49 Did you know that cooked äsh can be stored in the fridge for up to three days? Turn it into a äsh pie, äsh cakes, croquettes or pâté.* 50 Leftover mash? Make äsh cakes by adding canned salmon, salad onions and a beaten egg. Shape into patties, coat in åour and fry for a quick and delicious äsh supper. 51 “I love to cook leftover äsh al ajillo,” says Thomasina Miers. “This means warming it through with an oil infused with garlic and thinly sliced chillies. Guajillo chillies are best as they’re mild and sweet, but with a toasted chilli åavour. Sprinkle the äsh with lots of parsley, squeeze over lemon and serve with steamed potatoes to mop up the garlicky juices.”* SMART WAYS WITH DAIRY AND EGGS 52 Freeze milk. If it’s full fat rather than skimmed or semi, the cream will separate when it defrosts, but give it a good shake and it’ll taste completely normal. 53 Old parmesan rinds can enrich soups and stews. For a åavourful leek and potato soup, drop in a few rinds while the potatoes are softening, then take them out before serving. 54 Freeze hard cheese by cutting it into small portions or grating some into a plastic container, ready to top lasagnes and other tray bakes. 55 Too much yogurt? Make a marinade for meat, use it in curry for extra creaminess, mix it into cake batter for a moister texture, or make a dip with chopped herbs. 56 You can freeze yogurt, either in its tub or decanted into small cups. Once it’s defrosted, give it a stir if it has separated. 57 Leftover yolks from meringue making? Beat together with a little salt or sugar and freeze in small quantities for pastry, sauces and custards. 58 If you don’t want to freeze spare egg yolks, they’ll keep in the fridge for two days. Time to put a creamy carbonara or crème brûlée on the menu. 59 Like yolks, egg whites can be frozen for up to six months. Store in small cups or ice cube trays, then defrost to use as a glaze for pastry or bread, or in cocktails such as amaretto sour. 60 You can also make pancakes and omelettes using only egg whites, which makes them less rich. 61 Scattering eggshells in the garden provides a natural way to keep the slugs at bay. It also adds calcium to the soil. THE GREAT BAKE SAVE 62 Not going to änish all of the fresh-from-the-bakery sourdough or cake you bought for the weekend? Slice and freeze, then defrost the cake when you’re ready. The bread can be toasted straight from the freezer. 63 Get your own back on kids who don’t eat their crusts. Soak them in an egg and milk mixture, top with raisins and honey, then bake to make a leftover bread and butter pudding. 64 Dried out bread works perfectly well in French toast. Beat a couple of eggs with some milk, add cinnamon if you like, then soak the bread in the mixture before frying. 32 You can also do this with lemongrass stalks. Add a squeeze of lemon and a spoonful of honey to taste. 33 Save brown onion skins to make stock. Not only do they provide a delicious åavour, they also give the liquid a lovely golden brown colour. 34 Don’t store mushrooms in plastic or airtight containers, as this prevents air åow and will speed up spoilage. If mushrooms are turning brown, don’t bin them – just peel the outer layer and discard any dry stalks. 35 “If we have too much cauliåower or cabbage, we pickle it, including the leaves, using a mix of one-part vinegar, one-part sugar and one-part water,” says Maria Hunter, owner of The Pig’s Head in Clapham, London. “We add caraway seeds, thyme, a bay leaf and maybe some fresh garlic and sliced onion. After using the pickles, we use the leftover liquid in salad dressing.” 36 Make a ‘fridge curry’ with leftover vegetables. Simply roast, fry or boil ärst and add to your favourite curry sauce. 37 Grate leftover courgettes, carrots and onions into pancake batter with some cheese or spices. Fry until golden on both sides. 38 Tomatoes too soft or bruised to serve fresh? Waitrose Cookery School chefs advise chopping and frying with garlic and herbs for a pasta sauce. *Reheating means cooking again and not just warming up. Always reheat food until it is steaming hot all the way through and ensure a centre temperature of 75ºC. You should only reheat food once

4 3 MARCH 202 2 milk and a few pieces of dark chocolate for hot cake pudding. 72 Make cake pops – kids will love them! Crumble up leftover cake and mix with some icing to bind it together. Roll it into balls and then leave to harden in the fridge for an hour. Coat them in melted chocolate for extra tastiness. 73 Fruit cake that needs eating can jazz up vanilla ice cream. Crumble it into the ice cream and return to the freezer. STORECUPBOARD ESSENTIALS 74 Keep a list on your phone of what’s in your dried food store, fridge and freezer, to stop buying ingredients you already have. There are lots of apps to make this easier, such as Fridge Pal, which allows you to keep a shopping list, an inventory of your cupboards and a meal planner in one place. 75 Nearly empty jars of mayonnaise, mustard, chutney, horseradish and chilli sauce can be transformed into salad dressing by adding oil, vinegar and chopped fresh herbs to the container, replacing the lid and giving it all a good shake. 76 Turn leftover pasta into a lunchtime salad. Toss in oil and freeze single portions. Defrost in the fridge in the morning, and at lunchtime stir in tomatoes, cucumbers and feta. 77 If you’ve got leftover beans and pulses, mash or blend with some garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and any herbs lying around for a houmous-style dip. 78 Use out-of-date nuts, dried fruit, cheese and oats to make fat balls with suet or lard for the birds in your garden. 79 Cool leftover cooked rice quickly, refrigerate, then use to make burritos by mixing it with canned refried beans. Add chopped avocado, soured cream and cheese, wrapping with a tortilla. Use cooked rice within 24 hours and ensure it is piping hot before serving the burritos. 80 Make arancini from cold risotto. Tuck a piece of mozzarella inside a ball of rice, then coat in breadcrumbs and fry. 81 Food writer and chef Claire Thomson suggests adding leftover spaghetti, even with sauce attached, to beaten eggs, grated parmesan and chopped herbs, then pouring into a frying pan to make a tortilla – it’s one of her kids’ favourites. 82 Use the water from a can of chickpeas or other pulses to make a vegan meringue. Called aquafaba, it contains protein just as egg whites do. Search for The Happy Pear’s egg-free pavlova on waitrose.com. SHOPPING, STORING AND SERVING 83 “Do a monthly shop for long-life goods you know you will use,” says food writer Anna Jones, author of One: Pot, Pan, Planet, A Greener Way to Cook. “I änd limiting the amount I buy to one tote bag’s-worth makes sure I do not keep adding extra things we don’t need.” 84 Freeze leftovers. If you’ve made something like pasta or rice with a sauce, freezing the sauce separately will work better. Many chilled convenience meals freeze well too. If you know you’re not going to eat something on time, pop it in the freezer before the use-by date, then defrost completely before cooking, following the pack instructions. 85 Not änished a bottle of wine in time or had enough of your beer? Freeze the remainder for cooking. Beer batter or red wine ragù, anyone? 86 Freeze ginger whole on the day of purchase and, using a microplane, grate as much as you need into dishes. 87 Make ‘fridge soup’ every week or so with any vegetables and herbs that look past their best, then freeze in portions. 88 “Check the index of your favourite cookbooks or look online for ideas on how to use up what you have in your veg drawer,” says Rukmini Iyer. 89 A rigid weekly menu plan might not be for you, but a note on the fridge detailing the items that need using up, prioritising use-by dates, can be very helpful. 90 Some foods keep better outside the fridge. This includes onions and two of the UK’s most-wasted food items – bread and potatoes. Store both in a cool dark place, like a bread bin or cupboard. 91 Treat waste like ingredients. Ollie Hunter, chef and author of 30 Easy Ways to Join the Food Revolution, suggests making a habit of chopping up broccoli stalks to cook and mashing potatoes with their skins on. 92 Be fruit savvy. Apples, pears and citrus fruit will keep longer in the fridge. Pineapples and bananas last longer outside. 93 Knowing means preventing, says Douglas McMaster. “By knowing what meals you are going to cook, you can plan your week and buy the correct amount of food, saving unnecessary surplus.” 94 Separate bananas and apples to prevent them from overripening. They both produce a lot of ethylene gas, which will cause fruits to ripen faster. 95 The average UK fridge temperature is set to 7ºC, which is too warm for most foods and can lead to them going off. Check the instruction manual of your fridge to see which setting is below 5º. 96 Serve meals at the table from large dishes, rather than plating up beforehand. Once food is on plates, if it’s uneaten, it’s more likely to be wasted. 97 To make sure that you don’t end up with an overloaded freezer – with lurking UFOs (unidentiäed freezer objects) – why not aim to eat one meal a week from the freezer? Try to remember to label everything before you freeze it. 98 Understand date labels. You can still eat food after its best before date, but it won’t be at its best (dried pasta, for instance, can be eaten three years after its best before date). Use-by dates should be taken more seriously, however you can freeze food up to and including the use-by date. 99 According to Karen Cannard, founder of the Rubbish Diet Challenge which encourages people to slim their bins, having a poke around in your food waste bin is one of the best ways to understand exactly what you are chucking away each week – and how you can avoid it. Just don’t forget to give your hands a really good wash afterwards! TIME TO GET COMPOSTING 100 The most environmentally friendly way to deal with food waste is to home compost it (see p41), which means you produce compost to use in your – or someone else’s – garden. This not only prevents food rotting and producing methane in landäll, but also means it will not create a further transport footprint. The next best thing is a council collection food scheme, which mostly turns our scraps into energy or fertiliser. 100 WAYS TO REDUCE FOOD WASTE 65 “Mix breadcrumbs with egg and chopped herbs, then form dumplings to boil for a few minutes in a broth. This is a favourite Italian recipe of mine,” says Jennifer Moseley, founder of Wood Street Bakery, East London. 66 Bread rolls past their best? They can be improved by a spritz with water, then äve minutes in a hot oven, or you can turn them into breadcrumbs in a blender. Freeze the breadcrumbs if you have too many. 67 Use åatbreads in a fattoush salad or crusty bread in panzanella – drier bread is best to absorb the delicious dressings. 68 Tear bread that is a few days old into chunks, toss in oil, and bake in a hot oven for about 10-15 minutes, turning halfway. Store the croutons in an airtight container to use in soups or salads. 69 Gather crumbs from your breadboard and store in a tub in the freezer. Once full, use them to make chicken nuggets, äsh goujons or breaded äsh cakes. 70 Cake that’s a bit past its best can act as a super thickener for a milkshake, especially chocolate. Blend it with chilled milk. 71 Cake can be transformed by a short stint in the oven. You could break it up, then add a little 7-13 MARCH FOOD WASTE ACTION WEEK SUPPORTING AGAINST PARTNERS Photography: Alamy Stock Photo, Getty Images, Shutterstock

FREE 3 March 2022 WAYNE’S WORLD Mark Kermode on the Batman phenomenon p42 OFFERS 20% o selected products for a brilliant breakfast p46 THE GREEN LIGHT Six of the best no-waste dishes fromMary Gwynn p22 ZERO HEROES Chefs and restaurateurs putting the planet first p32 Ahead of his first sports column for Weekend, presenter DanWalker talks Strictly dance adventures and why he’s privileged to do his job, p10 Whole new ball game

2 3 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VIEWS Saving food to save the planet From apples to yogurt and everything in between, the amount we throw away is a major contributor to the climate crisis – and it’s time to change our ways, writes Emma Higginbotham Whether it’s remembering our reusable shopping bags or sorting the recycling, we’re all doing our bit in the climate change battle. But there’s one area where everybody could domore – stop throwing away good food. It’s tempting to take food for granted, particularly if we haven’t spent much on it. Bread crusty? Throw it. Milk been open for a few days? Tip it down the sink. Carrots looking bendy? Chuck them. We’ve all done it – every day, UK homes discard 20million slices of bread, the equivalent of 3.1 million glasses of milk and 2.7million carrots. Yet while theymay have cost us pennies, the cost to the planet is huge. Getting those products from the farm to our kitchen has used up valuable resources at every stage – up to 30%of global greenhouse gases come fromproducing our food. “When you waste food, you waste everything that’s gone into it,” explains sustainability expert HelenWhite. “To grow food you need land, you need to create space for that land which can lead to deforestation, then there’s all the water, the fertiliser, the energy and the transport that you need to bring it to your plate. If it gets scraped into the food waste caddy, uneaten, all of that is going to waste as well.” Then there’s the problemof what happens after we throw it away. When food rots in landfill, it produces methane, a greenhouse gas more potent than carbon dioxide. Rotting food is responsible for 8-10%of all man-made greenhouse gas emissions – that’s more than aviation. Globally, a third of all food never makes it to the table, and in the UKwe chuck out 4.5million tonnes of edible food every year, mostly in our own kitchens: 70%of all food wasted in the UK happens at home. To put it into context, if we all went without wasting food for just one day, it would have the same positive environmental impact as planting half amillion trees, or taking 14,000 cars o the road for a year. That’s why anti-waste charityWrap is holding its second annual FoodWaste ActionWeek (March 7 to 13). Organised through its Love FoodHateWaste campaign (lovefoodhatewaste.com), its aim is to raise awareness about the harmful e ects of throwing food away, with the tag line ‘wasting food feeds climate change’. This year, there’s a special emphasis on FOOD WASTE IN NUMBERS UK households throw away 6.6 million tonnes of food a year – the equivalent, per family, of eight meals every week This wasted food is responsible for nearly 25 million tonnes of CO2 emissions (equivalent to 5.4% of the UK’s territorial emissions) The majority (4.5 million tonnes) is food that could have been eaten, and is worth approximately £14 billion – that’s £60 a month for a family with two children It requires an area almost the size of Wales to produce all the food and drink currently wasted in the UK In a recent Love Food Hate Waste survey, 81% of UK citizens said they are concerned about climate change, but only 32% see a clear link with food waste freeze please Your freezer is your friend – and gives you more time to use food up Cover photography: Chris Floyd, Styling: Eric Down, Grooming: Susana Mota

3 3 MARCH 202 2 7-13 MARCH FOOD WASTE ACTION WEEK SUPPORTING AGAINST PARTNERS Partner and senior environment manager. “We’re currently collecting data fromour key suppliers so we can understand what waste is being produced, and where it’s going, and find solutions.” Meanwhile in store, Waitrose stocks several brands which turn surplus food into something delicious, such as Urban Cordial (fruit), Toast Ale (bread) and Blue Skies ice cream (coconut). In terms of meat, the retailer buys the entire carcass of an animal from livestock farmers to ensure that none of it is wasted, and sells ‘forgotten’ cuts such as pig’s cheek, beef short ribs and calves’ liver. Then there’s the ‘a little less than perfect’ range of fruit and veg, which would otherwise have been rejected because of its appearance. These products – including apples, onions, carrots and strawberries –may look wonky, but taste just as good as their perfectly shaped counterparts. The supermarket is also helping customers with waste-saving tips and tricks on waitrose.com. “Customers can do somuch,” says Ben. “Even what seem like small changes canmake a big di erence. “The key is just be really mindful of what you have in the fridge and in the cupboard, and consume as much of it as you possibly can before it goes o . Value your food, make sure you’re only buying what you need and use it all up, because otherwise it’s an incredible waste of resources which, globally, we can’t a ord.” “Eat what you buy, enjoy it, love every mouthful,” agrees Helen. “It’s a win-win: it’s savingmoney, it’s saving resources, and it’s a simple thing that we can all do to save the planet. Food needs to go in bellies, not bins.” For recipes and tips on food waste, visit waitrose.com/foodwasteathome freezing what we haven’t used, rather than binning it. “Your freezer is your friend, and there’s not much you can’t freeze,” says Helen, who’s a special advisor for the campaign. “‘Not used in time’ is one of the biggest reasons for food waste in the UK, so if youmove something from the fridge that’s approaching its date into the freezer, you’re pressing pause, and giving yourself another opportunity for that food to be used.” Saving food in this way is not only good for the planet, but for our wallets too, adds Helen. “An average UK family wastes the equivalent of eight meals a week, and when you look at themonetary value, it’s about £730 over a year. That’s a lot of money! “We can all do this,” she adds. “To think ‘I’ve got to changemy car’, or change how we heat our homes – they feel like quite FARESHARE OF SUCCESS Since 2017, Waitrose has partnered with anti-hunger charity FareShare to donate leftover food from their stores to the people who need it most, such as school breakfast clubs, homeless shelters, older people’s lunch clubs and community cafés. Shops with in-date but surplus food can scan and upload products using the FareShare app. This is then collected by local charities and community groups which turn it into meals. To date, more than eight million meals have been donated. Waitrose is also giving fridges and freezers to community organisations to increase their capacity to accept and store surplus food donations. “The eight million meals we’ve donated from our shops – that’s where we’ve shifted the dial the greatest in our own operations,” says Ben Thomas. “It’s been an incredible lever for us to reduce food waste and support those most in need.” big changes, whereas actually just eating the food we buy instead of chucking it feels a lot more doable, yet it can have a significant impact.” ForWaitrose, reducing the wastage that occurs before the products reach customers is a priority. The supermarket has pledged to halve food waste across its supply chain by 2030, and is adopting ‘whole chain food waste reduction plans’ – in short, identifying and tackling waste hotspots. “What we’ve done is try to get our house in order, which has been really successful – we’ve seen amassive reduction in food waste in our own operations – and nowwe’re focusing on our supply chain,” says Ben Thomas, no bin win Unwanted food can be used in no-waste recipes, composted ( left) or donated to community fridges for FareShare (right); sustainability expert Helen White (below) ‘Eat what you buy, enjoy it, love every mouthful. It’s a win-win’ 20 MILLION SLICES OF BREAD THE STATS Every day, UK homes throw away approximately 4.4 MILLION POTATOES 3. 1 MILLION GLASSES OF MILK 1 .2 MILLION TOMATOES 970 THOUSAND ONIONS 920 THOUSAND BANANAS 800 THOUSAND APPLES 720 THOUSAND ORANGES 86 THOUSAND LETTUCES 2.7 MILLION CARROTS 2.2 MILLION SLICES OF HAM THREE IS A MAGIC NUMBER Could you whip up a dish from the lonely food in your fridge? Waitrose is challenging TikTok users to make something delicious out of three ingredients that need using up. From Monday (7 March), search #TooGoodtoWaste on TikTok to watch the videos or take part Photography: Getty Images, StockFood/Gräfe & Unzer Verlag/Grossmann.Schuerle


5 3 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart WEEK 9: CUTTING BACK OUR PAWPRINT In the eyes of our children, our 10-yearold cat, Alfonzo, can do no wrong. He is treated like royalty, despite being a pretty unremarkable blackmoggy (sorry, Fonzi). But his carbon pawprint lets himdown, particularly now that we have no cat flap. He has had to adjust to a litter tray, while I now have to change it, emptying pongy litter into our landfill bin. Many cat owners argue it is safer andmore hygienic to keep a cat indoors – I would add that it is far less ecofriendly. We switch fromwhite litter, made from sodiumbentonite, to biodegradable alternatives, including wood pellet ones that are nomore expensive. Most aremade from the outer husks of grain, leftover from breakfast production – a clever use of a waste stream. We have settled onWaitroseWood Pellet Cat Litter (£4.60/10L). Once we’ve set up our compost bin (watch this space!), we can even compost it. “Froma green perspective, what matters most is that you choose cat litter made from natural materials,” says vet and TV presenter Rory Cowlam. “Also, choose food that comes in ecofriendly packaging, or with ingredients that have not been flown around the world.” A few years ago, we stopped buying foillined, non-recyclable pouches. After a brief hunger strike, Fonzi ate the canned food. OK, so half-empty cans are in the fridge, but (top tip) a Pringles tub lid fits neatly on top. Portion size is more of a challenge. Nearly half of all pet cats in Britain are obese. Rory adds: “As well as health implications, more foodmeans moremeat production and packaging.”We need to work on this – so no moremeals fit for a king, Fonzi. My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD A broken fence panel, some smashed pots and a trellis ripped o the wall. Thankfully, we were spared the worst of the recent storms. My commiserations to those of you who su ered rather more. Viewed from the safety of my kitchen window, the drama was intense. I watched with alarmas our neighbour’s tall, skinny eucalyptus swayed wildly in the wind. A pause in the icy gusts was greeted with the occasional burst of sunshine and silence. The birds were quiet and the trains which howl along the tracks at the bottomof our garden had stopped. The quiet was unsettling. ‘The weather’ counts as a sophisticated British pastime. We pore over weather apps, we complain about the heat and moan about the cold andmost of us will quite happily discuss the likelihood of rain with strangers. Like any self-respecting hobby, being ‘into’ the weather requires a load of specialised equipment – umbrellas, sunglasses, wellies, hats. There are also those who choose to take this enthusiasmup several levels and head to the coast to experience the sea in a rage. Daring, or foolhardy? As I’m the kind of person who’s scared of lightning, I’ll let you decide where I stand on that one. On the other hand, now that I’ve joined that group of people interested in gardening, after a few days of blue skies I do get tomake controversial remarks such as: ‘Ooh, it’s been a bit dry, we could do with some rain.’ Daring, or foolhardy? Judging by some reactions I’ve had, I’d say that’s definitely foolhardy. Speaking of the garden, I have admitted defeat inmy battle with the squirrels. There’s a family living in the trees along the railway embankment. My garden is part of their ’hood. Everything was fine until I decided to plant spring bulbs. I foolishly believed that if I could protect the bulbs until the point at which they sprouted, the grey flu y-tailed devils would leave themalone. Alas, it seems that isn’t true. Bulbs, sprouted or otherwise, are a tasty squirrel snack. So I’ve succumbed to the inevitable. Bye bye tulips and snowdrops – squirrels, the place is all yours. My obsessivemonitoring of rainfall isn’t going to fade quite so easily, though. I felt positively vindicated after a conversation on TheWorld Tonight with Professor Park Williams from the University of California. He heads a team of researchers who have identified what they call a ‘mega drought’ a ictingmuch of the west of the US. One of the key indicators is tree rings. In dry periods, the rings are closer together and whenmoisture levels are high, the rings are further apart. Using this method of analysis, they concluded that a vast area of western America is now in themidst of the driest two decades for centuries. I know that’s not good news and adds to a list of phenomena that can be linked to climate change, but it is fascinating that nature provides a record of the weather. Or is that fascination because I’ma weather obsessive and obsessives like records? Without wishing to trivialise the damage extreme storms and floods can wreak, I’mglad I live in a country where every trip outside involves military planning to avoid being soaked or freezing because you forgot to bring a waterproof or woolly. Imagine how dull it would be if it was sunny every day. Besides, having abandoned the ‘war on squirrels’ I’menjoyingmy new persona as a weather curmudgeon. Bring on the rain. Come rain or shine, us Brits love a bit of weather watching Illustration: Alex Green/Folioart MY WEEK Ritula Shah

6 3 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover j l Can I warn you that reading this columnmight raise your heart rate, even though it is about a research project whose findings aim to keep that same heart beating at a sensible and controlled level. Take a deep breath. Everybody ready? Women live longer if they domore chores. This is according to a University of California study on preventing cardiovascular disease, inwhich 5,500women aged from 63 to 90woremovement tracking devices for a week. The results were logged and researchers contacted themagain several years down the line. The data showedwomenwho did at least four hours of ‘daily lifemovement’ had a 62% lower chance of death fromcardiovascular diseases, compared to those who did fewer than two hours. So what’s the problem? I can almost hear you cry above the sound of the vacuumcleaner. Well, some of it lies in the definition of ‘daily lifemovement’ which the researchers explained as ‘cooking, household chores, gardening’. Could that movement not be walking, swimming or riding a bike? Do we have tomake the assumption that every woman’s ‘daily lifemovements’ involve heading towards a surface that needs wiping, or a flower bed that needs a tidy up? I knowwomen are still doingmore of the domestic work. The skirmishes of the chore wars showno sign of abating. A 2019 study at University College London of 8,500 heterosexual UKhouseholds foundwomenwere doing 16 ‘chore’ hours aweek andmen just six.Whatmatters is howmuch of that work is being done willingly. Maybe I’mbeing foolish and should allowmyself a smile of satisfaction on reading the Californian researchers’ news about our female connection to domesticity. It does seem to be telling us that it helps women to live longer, healthier lives. Who knew there was such a benefit to not being able to sit down until the dishwasher is unloaded, the pile of pants sorted and oh, look at the weeds in that flower pot? It’s a shame the headlines about the American report couldn’t includemen too. What a great incentive to share the choresmore. We should be yelling about the positive role a vacuumcleanermight play inmen’s relationship with the killer that is cardiovascular disease, too. But most of all, as a woman raising a son and a daughter, it matters tome that they share the joys of themodernworld. My newparental mottomight be: Live Longer, Fold Laundry. Do you think it’ll catch on? ‘It’s a shame the headlines couldn’t include men too. What a great incentive to share the chores more’ Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover Women finding the recipe for gender equality There’s lots more work to be done at all levels of hospitality, especially in leadership, to create more inclusive workplaces – but real change is finally coming, as Tessa Allingham reports The pub on the corner of Chiltern Street and Blandford Street in London is unashamedly feminine. Daylight dwindles, but lamps illuminate wallpaper that swirls with fantastically plumed parrots, exotic flowers and wild animals – theymake amirrored back bar sparkle, and spotlight exuberant floral arrangements. This refurbishedMarylebone pub, reopened under new ownership inNovember, looks fun, cosy, inviting. Behind the visual appeal of Flowerhouse, there is serious purpose, however. The pub aims to help redress the gender imbalance at senior level in hospitality by creating an environment that enables and encourages women to take on leadership roles. It partners, where possible, with female-led supply firms, and through its design and tone aims to be a place women feel comfortable visiting alone. It’s amessage of support and inclusivity that fits the times, particularly ahead of International Women’s Day on Tuesday (8March). The global celebration of women has happened every year since 1911, and campaigns year-round to dismantle gender-related barriers and bias. It includes in its 2022missions the aim to ‘forge inclusive work cultures where women’s careers thrive and their achievements are celebrated’. “[At Flowerhouse] it’s not about being exclusively female,” says Jo Jackson, former chief creative o cer of furniture companyMade.com, and co-founder with her husband, Morten Jensen, andDarren Collins of Modern Bar Group (Flowerhouse and The Light Bar andOat café, both in Shoreditch). “But we need to actively push the female side to deal with the imbalance. We need to findways tomake hospitalitymore attractive as a career to women of all ages and backgrounds.” According to the O ce for National Statistics, women account for 56%of all hospitality employees, but the proportion drops dramatically at senior level. Employment organisation People 1st put it as low as 11% inOctober 2017. Change is slowly happening, says Tea Colaianni, founder ofWiHTL –Diversity inHospitality, Travel and Leisure. The organisationwas founded to support companies in the sector to reach 33% female representation at senior levels by 2020, a target set by the five-year government-backedHampton-Alexander review. “Our research found about half of hospitality companies reached the target,” says Tea, adding that a ‘worrying’ 76% still have an all-male triumvirate of chair, chief executive and chief financial o cer, but she adds: “Many are understanding the importance of creating inclusive workplaces.” It’s progress that PamBrunton, chef-owner of Inver restaurant, Argyll, insists is essential. Interviewed in The Female Chef, by Clare Finney and Liz Seabrook, she challenges the ‘masculine, hierarchical lines along whichmodern restaurants…were established 200-odd years ago’. Change, she says, should “reflect the fact that, 121 years after the Michelin Guide was first printed, whichwas before women had the right to vote, the world is a di erent place”. At Flowerhouse, about 70%of the employees are female, and the senior team is woman-led, with Jo, operations director DerrynNel, and assistant manager Emily Redding. New recruits can follow apprenticeship-based training supported by on-the-job learning. “If I’ve donemy job right, peoplemight not stay with us long,” says Jo. “They’ll be recruited by a balanced approach Jo Jackson (right) hopes her work at the Flowerhouse (below) will help more women thrive in a hospitality career Photography: Ola O. Smit, Daniel Ogulewicz, Ming Tang-Evans, Benjamin Eagle, Joseph Sinclair

7 3 MARCH 202 2 her building contractor business Cato Services during lockdown, has overseen repairs and decorating. “I want Flowerhouse to be a springboard for women,” says Jo. “I’mnot going to change the whole industry, but neither is this just lip-service. I want it to be a profitable pub, but doing something with meaning is important.” Jo is adding her voice to amovement with powerful advocates. Clapham’s oldest drinking establishment The Rose &Crown has reopened under an all-female team led by Josephine Savry and Rosannah Cherrill. At The Pub Ramsgate, landlady NicolaWerner has pledged to only hire women and ex-model Jodie Kidd runs TheHalf Moon in Kirdford, West Sussex. At Barletta in Margate, 80%of Natalia Ribbe’s team in the Turner Contemporary gallery restaurant are female. It’s fitting given that Natalia (below) is founder of the Ladies of Restaurants collective, which supports womenworking in hospitality. Asma Khan famously runs her London restaurant Darjeeling Express with an all-female teamof home cooks, and at the Conrad London St James Hotel, three women lead the food and beverage operation – general manager Emma Underwood, head chef Laetizia Keating and consultant chef Sally Abé. Emma would prefer that their gender did not make headlines: “I’d rather be a personworking in an industry that has an equal gender balance, but that’s not where hospitality is right now,” she told industry website BigHospitality, in July. Sally added: “I want to show other women that this is viable and that they can do it.” great restaurant or bar because Flowerhouse training will become recognised.” And shifts can be flexible, Jo adds. “Why can’t we have a 10am-3pmshift that fits around school pickups? If we find an incredible individual who needs to be at home in the evenings, let’s talk about what hours might work. We want to give women a step up on the hospitality career ladder.” WiHTL research backs up the importance of flexibility. The group’s latest report examining the impact of Covid on gender equality found that inflexible hours and lack of a ordable, seven-days-a-week childcare were the biggest barriers to progression. “There is a leaky pipeline,” says Tea. “Many women get to a certain point then leave. We need to stop that happening, showhospitality as an attractive sector that canwork for them. Our industry can o er incredible opportunities to work flexibly that, with the right design, can suit women’s needs.” At Flowerhouse, female-led suppliers include Double Dutch, the premiummixer company founded by Dutch twins Joyce and Raissa de Haas, while Pernod Ricard’s Lillet apéritif has a feminine slant to its branding – it’s in the Flowerhouse spritz (Absolut Blue Label Vodka, Lillet Blanc, caramelised orange, Prosecco). Icelandic artist Kristjana S Williams designed the wallpaper, hanging baskets are by AlisonWhite of Blooming Baskets in Cornwall, and flower arrangements by AbbyMcCoy, the American creative behind start-up floristry business, Little Shop of Natures. Alia Taub, who launched ‘We need to find ways to make hospitality more attractive as a career to women of all ages and backgrounds’ MAKING A STATEMENT Josephine Savry and Rosannah Cherrill (below); Asma Khan and her all-female team of cooks at Darjeeling Express (bottom) 7 QUESTIONS WITH… ASHLEY THOMAS The Top Boy and Them star on great eyesight and his fictional namesake Ashley stars in The Ipcress File, ITV, Sundays at 9pm. Interview: Emma Higginbotham 1 Where do you live? In West London. I grew up here and I love it. 2 What did you want to be when you were little? Either a pilot or an actor. I would have made a good pilot – I’ve got really good eyesight, more acute than 20/20, but acting is a dream come true. 3 What’s your character like in new spy drama The Ipcress File? Maddox is a smooth operator in a powerful position. It’s set in the 60s, when there was a lot of oppression for black people, and he needs to be better than his counterparts. He’s dealing with trauma, which manifests in his actions. Is he doing the right thing? Watch and änd out... 4 Would you be a good spy? I’m super-observant and pretty low key, so maybe I would. 5 Is it annoying sharing a name with the vicar in Emmerdale? Yes! When I was younger I’d google myself and he’d pop up, and I’d be like: “Why?! Of all the names to have!” But it’s shifting now – if you type my name in, my face will pop up too. 6 Are you a good cook? I’m not a ‘let me whip up what’s left in my cupboard’ cook, but if you put a recipe in front of me I’ll make a good meal. Ackee and saltäsh and oxtail are my favourites. They’re rooted in my culture, and the åavours are banging. 7 What would little Ashley think of grown-up Ashley? He’d be proud and surprised that his dream has been achieved. He’d say: “Loosen up a little bit, though, man!” I used to laugh more when I was a kid, so I want to get back into the art of laughing.

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9 3 MARCH 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS From rum and ketchup to flavoured water and ice cream, brands are transforming surpluses into something special, writes Anna-Marie Julyan Turning waste into taste “Waste food often has a connotation of poor quality, whereas really it’s just an excess,” says Jenny Costa, founder of condiments company Rubies in the Rubble. “Our supply chain is governed by the weather – we never know how big or small a crop will be – so it mademe think, what happens when supply and demand don’t meet up?” That was 10 years ago, back when repurposing food waste was a ‘hippy notion’. Since then Rubies in the Rubble’s relishes, ketchups andmayonnaise havemade use of 473 surplus tonnes of fruit and veg, from overripe pears and bruised apples to onions that were too small to bother harvesting. Their veganmayonnaise is made with aquafaba, water used to cook chickpeas for houmous, previously thrown away. Rubies was one of the first ‘food waste’ brands, but since thenmore have sprung up. Each has an imaginative take on repurposing produce destined for the bin, such as Urban Cordial, whichmakes use of excess British fruit, and Toast Ale, which replaces the key brewing ingredient barley with surplus bread. Many of the brands work directly with farmers, providing themwith amarket for produce that might be downgraded simply for beingmisshapen or the wrong size. Anti-waste charityWrap estimated in 2019 that food surplus and waste in primary production is on average 7.2%of all food harvested, equating to a staggering £1.2 billion at farmgate prices. Other reports suggest it could be as high as 16%. Jack Scott and AlexWright co-founded DashWater to use ‘wonky’ fruit and veg as the flavouring for sparkling drinks made without sugar, sweeteners or calories. “I saw first-hand that there’s waste at farm level,” says Jack. “With blackcurrants, the farmer we source fromhas a big contract with Ribena – at the end she has a certain amount that are surplus and we pay her market price for those. We’re providing a bigger secondarymarket to the farmers, meaning less will go to waste.” All their fruit or vegetables are turned into extracts or concentrates at a ‘flavour house’, with the leftover pulp going to a nearby biodegrader to be turned into energy. Keeping things local is key to Blue Skies, a supplier of Waitrose own-label freshly cut fruit since 2000, which launched its dairy-free ice cream in 2018. Unusually, all the processing is done in its country of origin, adding value where the fruit is grown, explains CEOHugh Pile. “When you cut a mango or coconut there’s a huge amount that doesn’t go into the tray,” he says. “A large percentage of our unused fruit was being used for freshly squeezed juices sold locally in Ghana, but we had no outlet for our unused coconut. Coupled with the explosion of the global dairy-freemarket, we started innovating in the hope that fresh coconut milk couldmake a superior ice cream.” To understand Discarded Spirits Co, you need to take a peek under the bonnet of Scotch. WhiskymakerWilliamGrant & Sons created the first Discarded Spirits drink in 2018 – vermouth flavoured with cascara, the normally discarded husk of the co ee fruit. The base liquid of Discarded Sweet Cascara Vermouth is a sherry-like fortified winemade by the whisky industry specifically to season its barrels. “Sometimes it was sold tomake sherry vinegar, but often it was discarded,” explains brand ambassador SamTrevethyen. Meanwhile, banana peel is ground up and dehydrated tomake an alcoholic infusion for its Discarded Banana Peel Rum, and pomace – the solid remains of grapes used in winemaking – is distilled as the base of its Discarded Grape Skin Vodka. “Why does waste have to be the end?” asks Sam. “Why can’t it be the start?” PICKING A WINNER Jack Scott and Alex Wright (above); Sam Trevethyen (bottom left); Jenny Costa (bottom right) ‘I saw first-hand that there’s waste at farm level – we’re providing a secondary market to the farmers’ 7-13 MARCH FOOD WASTE ACTION WEEK SUPPORTING AGAINST PARTNERS Photography: Kris Humphreys