Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 585

FREE 20 January 2022 On selected products at Waitrose, p46 J ANUARY GHILLIE BASAN Burns Night haggis manti with pul biber and mint p19 MAKINGWAVES Why Scotland’s best food and drink is hard to beat p6 How Sir Kenneth Branagh’s childhood provided the inspiration for his new Oscar-tipped film, p10 The boy fromBelfast FACE TIME Gadgets and techniques to help your complexion p42

20 J ANUARY 202 2 2 NEWS&VIEWS FLEXITARIAN If you can’t resist an occasional juicy steak, consider flexitarianism. It describes people who were once traditional meat eaters but are now reducing their consumption of animal protein, making themmostly veggie, with a side order of high-welfare meat and fish. According to The Grocer, this approach is appealing to a growing number, with 21%of Britons seeing themselves as flexitarian. Showing us how it’s done: Sir Paul McCartney (left), a full-time veggie, set up Meat-FreeMondays in 2009 to encourage people to ditchmeat one day a week. With the backing of the former Beatle, meatfree days became ‘a thing’ and have since evolved to seemany flexitarians reducing their meat intake to fewer days each week. LOCAVORE As the local food movement has taken o , so too has the number of people committed to eating food that is grown or produced locally, describing themselves as locavores. While often heard praising the earthiness of their homegrown herbs, you may also witness passionate debate about how strictly onemust stick to local-only ingredients in order to legitimately selfidentify as locavore, and how far away these ingredients can be grown, with a consensus emerging that they should come fromwithin a 100mile radius of your home. Showing us how it’s done: Poco restaurant founder and author of Eating for Pleasure, People and Planet, TomHunt says the word locavore sums up his ethos perfectly: “A person who eats locally produced food – someone who chooses to buy from the local market, rather than importing goods.” SEAGAN What if there was a way to go vegan, but still enjoy the odd protein hit fromyour favourite poisson? Enter seaganism, an eating regime that pairs a vegan diet (nomeat, animal by-products, dairy or eggs) with occasional meals containing fish and seafood. In other words, seaganism is to vegans what pescetarianism is to vegetarians. To cater for this rising tide of seagans, there has been a surge in seacuterie – think charcuterie, but the salamis come fromcured salmon, monkfish and cuttlefish. Although this approach means you are not a card-carrying vegan, you will still enjoy the health benefits of an omega 3 fish boost. Showing us how it’s done: Carla Buzasi, CEO at trend forecasting companyWGSN, says it’s been surprisingly easy to go seagan. “Fish and seafood aremy treat, and it keeps it all varied,” she says. NOVARIAN Forget air miles, locality and even carbon footprints, novarians care about one thing – how processed their food is. The aim is to eat food in its natural state. To work out what to eat, they rate ingredients according to the UN’s Nova food classification scheme. Published in 2019, it divides the foods we buy into four groups – group 1 being unprocessed or minimally processed, such as fruit and vegetables, and group 4 being ultraprocessed, such as sausages and crisps – aiming to avoid anything fromgroup 3 or 4. Of course, less processed foods also tend to be better for the environment, requiring less packaging and fewer energy intensive production processes and chemicals, so the novarian accrues greenie points as well as health ones. Showing us how it’s done: Actor Emma Watson (left) avoids processed foods. She told American food publication Spoon University that this is a big part of her approach to food, encouraging her to cookmore. CLIMATARIAN If you’d rather not squabble about exactly what type of food you should be eating, but instead concentrate on the big picture, declare yourself a climatarian. The New York Times defined it as following ‘a diet whose primary goal is to reverse climate change’. In practice, this means selecting foods that generate the least environmental impact by avoiding those with a high carbon footprint. Expect meat to be pushed o your plate first, especially beef, due to themethane emissions and resources needed to produce it. You’ll also have to reconsider your smashed avo toast or nuts for snacks, as these rack up high emissions due to long transport routes to get to the UK, plus high-water growing requirements. Seasonal, locally grown fruit and vegetables are top of themenu, along with carbon-slimline chicken and sustainable fish. Other climatarian core The new food tribes If veganism is a step too far for you this January, there are plenty more environmentally led diets you can follow. Anna Shepard sorts the seagans from the beegans to reveal the lifestyles gaining momentum in 2022 Cover photography: Rii Schroer/eyevine

20 J ANUARY 202 2 3 principles include reducing food waste, avoiding energy intensive packaging and buying local. Showing us how it’s done: Chef Skye Gyngell has led her award-winning restaurant, Spring, down a climatarian path, eliminating single-use plastic, serving seasonal, sustainable food and o ering a zero-waste scratchmenu. OMNIVEGAN Much like the seagan, the chegan tweaks – or cheats – their vegan diet a little to make it more achievable, for instance, by becoming a beegan (a vegan who eats honey), an ovo-vegan (a vegan who eats eggs) or an ice-cregan (allowing the odd scoop from their favourite tub). Call it omniveganism if you will, it’s a pick-andmix version that makes it less restrictive and thereforemore likely to have wide appeal. Some argue that this promotes the vegan cause as it becomes a gateway to becoming 100%plant-based. Others feel that making up the rules as you go along is far from true veganism. Whatever side you’re on, expect heated debate over quinoa salad. Showing us how it’s done: Tennis stars Serena and Venus Williams (below) both eat what they call a ‘mostly’ vegan diet. “I try tomake themajority of my meals raw and vegan, but I’m only human and amknown to cheat a little bit,” says Serena. WAITARIAN For some discerning shoppers, only Waitrose will do. This might be love for the pro-planetWaitrose Duchy Organic label, the biggest own-brand organic range in the UK. Or maybe the retailer’s ongoing eco-commitments – by 2023, all own-brand packaging will be widely recyclable, reusable or home-compostable and by 2025, the entire operation will be net-zero. Others have been won over by the fact thatWaitrose is the only supermarket to have a 4,000-acre Leckford Estate farm, with its own farm shop inHampshire. Whatever the reason, for waitarians, the idea of Sunday roast ingredients, or amidweek speedy supper, coming from anywhere else is, quite frankly, sacrilege. However much theymight need a pint of milk or a pack of loo roll, their purse strings remain tightly closed until the trustworthy green stripe logo hoves into view. Showing us how it’s done: That would be telling. PLANETARY PESCETARIAN Fish-eating vegetarians – pescetarians – have been around for decades, but what sets the latest variety apart is their laser focus on sustainability. Any pescatarianworth their (sea) salt in 2022will find no pleasure in tucking into Pacific bluefin tuna or skate, since they’ll know these species are top of theMarine Stewardship Council (MSC) list of fish to avoid due to depleted stocks and overfishing. They will, however, confidently cite theMSC’s Good Fish Guide, which suggests sustainable alternatives such as European hake, stocks of which havemade amiraculous recovery thanks to good fisherymanagement. They will also tuck intomackerel and British shellfish, fromCromer crab and native Essex oysters to lobsters caught along the coast of Yorkshire. Showing us how it’s done: Actor David Duchovny (left) calls himself a ‘lazy vegetarian’ – he doesn’t eat meat, but has embraced fish. He defines his way of eating as ‘pro-Earth’. CARNISPLORER Don’t be tempted to o er a carnisplorer a simple sausage or chicken breast for tea. This adventurous tribe thinks outside the meat aisle and explores uncharted animal territory. You’ll find themdining on super-sustainable goat stew, mutton chops and venisonmeatballs or dipping into Waitrose’s Forgotten Cuts range, where you can sample pig’s cheek and chicken livers. These nose-to-tail aficionados embrace all parts of the carcass, and all animals, particularly wild ones – think rabbit, boar and pigeon – whatever their age, so long as they’ve been reared in a high-welfare environment. After all, there’s nothing a hearty harissamarinade won’t disguise. Showing us how it’s done: Chef and cookbook author Gizzi Erskine argues that animals play a crucial role in farming, grazing pastures and reviving soil health. “Don’t assume because you’re buying veg that it comes froma sustainable source,” she says. sustainable eating Gizzi Erskine’s Restore cookbook o ers goat shin with o al (above); Waitrose’s Leckford Estate (above right) added benefits Seagans follow a vegan lifestyle but enjoy seafood and fish (below left) WHAT’S IN YOUR BASKET? Keen to sort the good food from the bad? You can now scan barcodes with the free NHS Food Scanner app to änd out what’s in your food and drink, including the amount of sugar, saturated fat and salt. A new feature offers suggestions for healthier alternatives and kids will enjoy scanning and änding the Good Choice badges. Photography: WireImage, StockFood, Alamy Stock Photo, Issy Croker, Getty Images

20 J ANUARY 202 2 4 Warm up on a chilly evening with the Waitrose range of Indian-inspired readymeals. They’re made using the highest quality ingredients and, with no prep, will be ready in minutes – enjoy 25% off these until 25 January Chicken Korma £3/350g (was £4) A classic dish – tender marinated chicken in a mild, coconut, almond and cashew nut sauce with cardamom. TAKEAWAY TREATS Pilau Rice £1.50/350g (was £2) Aromatic basmati rice with onion, cardamom and clove to complement your chosen dish. 2 Tandoori Naans £1.50/300g (was £2) Plain åatbreads seasoned with kalonji seeds, baked in a tandoor oven. Warm in the oven, then serve with curry. Vegetable Masala £3/350g (was £4) Mixed veg in a tandoorispiced onion, tomato and coconut sauce. Great as a side, or a vegetarian main. Aloo Gobi Saag £1.87/300g (was £2.50) A favourite side dish of potato, cauliåower and spinach in a spiced garlic, coriander and fenugreek sauce. Chicken Tikka Masala £3/350g (was £4) Widely considered Britain’s national dish – enjoy tender marinated chicken pieces in a cream and tomato sauce. GREAT JANUARY SAVINGS

20 J ANUARY 202 2 5 Illustration: Amelia Flower/Folioart NEWS&VI EWS WEEK 3: MAKING A GLASS AND WINDOW CLEANER The cupboard under my sink is a source of green guilt. It’s not just the jumble of rarely used sprays makingme feel bad, or the amount of plastic bottles, but also the shameful number of harsh cleaning products, some of which contain non-biodegradable chemicals that can be toxic tomarine life when they end up in our waterways. To tackle this, I spoke to a friend who provides regular eco inspiration. Bettina Maidment set up the campaigning group Plastic-Free Hackney (@plasticfreehackney) in 2018. She startedmaking her own cleaning products more than 20 years ago, at university, after conventional products gave her a sore throat. The first concoction shemade was a glass and window spray that has become the crowd pleaser at the green cleaning workshops she gives in East London. “You don’t need any special kit and it’s really e ective,” she says. First, grab the vodka (for themixture, obviously). You could use surgical spirit, but I have some ancient vodka lying around, so I mixed 55ml of it with 55ml of white vinegar, added a little cornflour, to help lift the dirt, and 450ml of warmwater, before pouring it all into an old spray bottle. The result was a solution that, due to the alcohol, evaporates quickly leaving zero smears or residue. Rather than the scrunched up newspaper approach to polishing, I followed Bettina’s advice to use an old cotton T-shirt, cut into cloths. After, these go straight in the washing machine to be reused. The smell is not pine forests or lilac fields, it’s slightly fish and chip shop, but the feelgood factor makes up for that and leaves a pleasant afterglow. My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD MY WEEK Chris Packham My festive period was quite dirty. Not the dirtiest on record, thanks to Covid fuellingmy fanatical social caution, but there was still moremud inmy garden than at every Glastonbury festival I’ve never been to. Andmore dirtyMartinis inmy gastric tract than any Bond film I’ve ever been forced to watch. The natural world is my religion but I still reluctantly get sucked into the jingly-jangly spirit of Christmas and new year. I spent most of it on the Isle of Wight, wheremy partner has theWildheart Trust Sanctuary for rescued animals – tigers, lions and other exotics. We went to her mum’s for dinner – she’s mastered the veganmain course, but her legendary sherry trifle with cherries on top is still more than a trifle too dairy for me. She’s working on a plant-based version for 2022. In between downpours we trod somemud around the sanctuary with Simon, one of themany saintly volunteers, looking for suitable locations to put up nest boxes for sparrows. By way of reward, on one of our soaked beach walks down to Culver cli s with the sand racing poodles, we were treated to an ornithological nirvana of a peregrine, kestrel and sea eagle combo. Quite frankly, that was all I needed for Christmas, although nature is a constant giver of gifts all year round – all we have to do is look up and look after it. Not much to ask, eh? Speaking of which, I’ve done the dirty deed and set myself some new year’s resolutions – yes, that old incinerated chestnut. Apparently, approximately 25%of us do this on 1 January and at least half of us will have some success in honouring our goals, especially if we feel an emotional connection to them. In 2019 I did Veganuary and have been vegan ever since. Many years ago I gave up Coca-Cola and am pleased to report that I haven’t had a drop of The Real Thing, nor any other soft drinks ever again . After a couple of weeks of giving self-indulgence a leading role it was time to get my brain doing that annual life audit. Time to put words into action somy feeling good doesn’t lead to other people or species feeling bad. So number one on the hit list is to use every cell inmy body to end illegal fox-hunting. This barbaric cruelty to one of our most charismatic species must stop and I won’t be puttingmy feet up until it does. How anyone can get a kick out of this I don’t know. Next up is to plant another 70 native trees to takemy total to just under 300. Sadly, ash dieback is claiming the lives of some of my woodland friends – I had to remove one as it was close to a building. The other sickening victims I’ll let fall with grace to formvital habitats for wildlife. My third resolution, as we orbit the sun for another planetary year, is to let the feisty gas giant unleash its power to fuel my electric car. So, I’ll be installing solar panels onmy garage roof. If there’s energy left over I might even be inspired tomake another resolution to actually spendmore time thrashing some punk rock anthems onmy Telecaster guitar – last year’s Christmas present. And if I’ve got any energy after all that I’ll read the instructions on one of this year’s gifts – a Dodow sleep aid said to render counting sheep redundant. Apparently all I need to do is breathe for eight minutes in time to a pulsating dot of light on the ceiling before I fall into a land of altered consciousness . Who knows, it might just pay o althoughmy adage is: “Sleep when you’re dead, eat just before.” No more indulgence – it’s time to act on my new year’s resolutions Illustration: Sam Kalda/Folioart

6 20 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views IN MY OPINION i lover j l “Imagine you’re sitting by a loch. The view, the setting sun, the calm. You’re eating hot smoked salmon and drinking Scotch. How good does it taste? That’s Scottish food and drink for you,” says CraigWilson. “At its best, it’s hard – if not impossible – to beat.” An ambassador for Scotland Food& Drink, the body which champions the nation’s produce at home and abroad, Craig is best known as The Kilted Chef. With 30 years of experience in top-flight kitchens, including his own acclaimed Aberdeenshire restaurant Eat on the Green, he’s travelled the world flying the flag for his country’s cuisine. “There are negative stereotypes – the deep-friedMars bar, deep-fried everything – but we’re breaking themdown,” says Craig. “We’re not historically the best salespeople – I think we can be a bit shy – but we’ve got somuch to shout about! “Scotland’s land and sea lend themselves to producing the finest meat and fish you’ll find – take Aberdeen Angus or Scottish langoustines. Our cuisine pays tribute to our heritage but is always evolving.” Next week, Burns Night will see haggis piped into dining rooms across the world. But, with Scotland’s food and drink industry worth £15 billion, there’s much more on the nation’s menu to enjoy, as Alice Ryan discovers Flying the flag for Caledonia’s culinary cause Since Scotland Food&Drink was founded in 2007, the sector has grown to become one of the nation’s biggest employers and its best-performing industry, worth £15 billion at last count. Exports havemore than doubledwithin the last decade, with 39 bottles of Scotch whisky shipped overseas every second. The second biggest is seafood, spanning shell andwhitefish, withmore than 60 species landed along Scotland’s coast. Scottish salmon is the UK’s biggest single food export, with annual sales totalling £185million in France, £109million in the US, and £14million in China. While such products are Scotland’s international calling cards, foodwriter Peter Gilchrist says they rarely appeared on his childhood plate at home in Paisley: “A lot of the food I grewup eating was beige – chips or pies. It wasn’t salmon, scallops or langoustines. I didn’t even eat haggis until I was 18.” Through his Tenement Kitchen blog and vlog – he’smaking a docuseries charting the history of signature Scottish dishes – Peter is aiming to answer the fundamental question: “What is Scottish food?” The project was sparked by the death of his paternal grandmother, which sawhis family turn to hermuch-loved and oft-made recipes for solace. Granny’s shortbread contained an o -piste ingredient – cornflour –which prompted Peter to do some research, discovering that Paisley had been, in the 1800s, the cornflour capital of Europe. A brand called Brown&Polson pivoted itsmuslin business, which used shirt starch, to sell edibles with such success that it had a four-acre site and 1,200 employees by the 1860s. Latterly, before it finally closed in 1996, the factory was home to soup and stock cube giant Knorr. “It mademe realise how recipes connect food heritage Craig Wilson, aka The Kilted Chef ( left), is an ambassador for Scotland Food & Drink There’s been a tiny hullabaloo about the University of Salford issuing warnings – in the formof content notes – about classics such as Jane Eyre and Great Expectations. Apparently, some students need to be told theymight find them ‘distressing’. It’s not gone down too well in some quarters – one person’s distressing is another’s valuable lesson about the reality of this thing called life. I’mnot laughing at people with a sensitive disposition, because I amone. I can’t even take themenace of an opening scene of Casualty – nice familyman heading up onto his conservatory roof to fix a loose pane of glass? I don’t need to stick with the show to know it’s not going to endwell. But just as you probably don’t need a warning at the start of amedical drama to know amedical drama will unfold, so warnings about ‘trigger content’ are not the new labellingmost books need. But some change is necessary. If you buy books online, the algorithms target youwithmore of the same. I don’t find the ‘if you like Ian Rankin, you’ll like another Ian Rankin, or Harlan Coben or Lee Childs’ helpful. Don’t most of us read in the same way we watch TV or eat meals – seeking out di erent or complementary things asmuch as the comfort of the same? Do you eat roast chicken after a steak and kidney pie? If I could have one wish granted in 2022, I’d be let loose in a bookshop to redesign their shelves. Into the ‘Over 40 and Feeling a Bit Cynical’ section, would go Josh Widdicombe’s autobiographical munch through 90s TV, a book I didn’t expect to like asmuch as I did. ‘What to Read on a Grey January Day’ would include JaneHarper’s novels, with their Australian outback heat and dust. And the ‘Refuseniks Reunited’ sectionwould be for those books you didn’t readwhen they came out due to the hype. I’d also like some kind of literary gear-changemachine for when you’ve read a whopper, like Richard Powers’ 640-page The Overstory – a book so dense and powerful I needed something completely di erent afterwards. Liza Tarbuck’s I amDistracted by Everything – an annual for grown-ups, with daft pictures and puzzles – was perfect and could not be a better book for dull old January. Random, weird and not entirely based in reality, it could probably do with a trigger alert on the cover – ‘may contain fun’. Consider yourself warned. Fortunately…with Fi and Jane and The Listening Project are on BBC Sounds @fifiglover ‘If I could have one wish granted in 2022, I’d be let loose in a bookshop to redesign their shelves’

7 20 J ANUARY 202 2 us,” Peter explains. “Not only to our families and our past, but to our national history and identity.” On going to university (“where everyone was eating pesto and houmous”), Peter admits he started to see the food he grew up on as “somehow inferior”: “There is a class issue, of course. The reason somany dishes feature potatoes is because they are plentiful and cheap. As I’ve learned about the history of these foods, it’s givenme a di erent perspective, a pride.” Haggis, the iconic dish of sheep’s o al mixedwith suet, oatmeal and seasoning and boiled in a bag, is a rarity in that it bridges the gap, explains Peter, between Scotland’s everyday fare and its worldfamous, world-class produce. “Burns’ Ode to the Haggis was profound because he was sonnetising peasant food, not unlike amodern Scottish artist writing a song about a chippy supper,” he explains. “The working classes felt celebrated by Burns and that’s obviously reflected in how we now celebrate himannually.” In hismission to characterise and honour Scottish food, Peter is following in the footsteps of FlorenceMarianMcNeill, who published seminal cookbook The Scots Kitchen: Its Traditions and Lore, with Old-Time Recipes in 1929. A folklorist and activist – she was a determined su ragist – Florence wanted, she wrote, “to preserve the recipes of our old national dishes, many of which are in danger of falling into undeserved oblivion”. Recipes included broonie, Orkney oatmilk gingerbread; Meg Dodd’s powsowdie, sheep’s head broth; and skirlie, combining oatmeal, onion, fat and seasoning. It is, says Peter, “what I’ve come to consider one of the pillars of Scottish cooking – the base for somany dishes.” Both Peter and Craig say Scottish food is exploding in popularity, thanks to a recognition of the unrivalled quality of its produce and the skill of its artisans. There would be, says Craig, no Arbroath smokies, Stornoway black pudding or Orkney cheese without theirmakers. Among regional specialities he recommends are Isle of Harris and Arbikie gins – the former distilledwith locally foraged sugar kelp seaweed, to give an authentic flavour of the sea; the lattermade, field-to-bottle, on a single Highland estate. Then there’s butteries, or rowies, baked on his Aberdeenshire doorstep. “They’re a bit like amore condensed croissant and are a staple in our area – I serveminiature ones with tattie soup.” If you plan to try these at home, Craig has one flag: “To sample Scottish food and drink at its absolute best, you need to come up and visit. They say paella tastes best in Spain. I’d argue langoustines and Aberdeen Angus steak taste best in Scotland.” ‘Burns’ poemwas not unlike a modern Scottish artist writing a song about a chippy supper’ loch, stock and barrels (Clockwise from left) A Scottish loch; shellfish such as scallops, is the country’s second biggest export; Tenement Kitchen’s Peter Gilchrist; a classic dish of haggis and tatties; checking on the whisky at a Scottish distillery 7 QUESTIONS WITH… BARBARA DICKSON 1 Where are you? I’m at home in Edinburgh, in my sitooterie, which is a Scottish word for a place to sit out. I can see my olive and pine trees, and beautiful ferns. 2 Best thing you’ve had delivered recently? I treated myself to a bottle of very expensive bath oil. A few drops in a hot bath really does it for me. 3 Your Time is Going Faster tour starts in March. How has your show changed over the years? I no longer strut around the front of the stage pretending to be Tina Turner! I sing and play guitar with my äve-piece band, and tell stories. 4 January February is a beautifully sad song. Do these months make you sad? Most people assume it’s a jolly song, but it’s not really. Living in Scotland in January and February can be a bit of trial, and you feel like you’re living in darkness. I put up fairy lights to lighten things up a bit. 5 Favourite memory from performing on Top of the Pops? When I ärst performed on the show in the 70s my record label sent a white stretched limo to take me to the studio. It wasn’t until äve years later I realised it was me who was paying for it! 6 Are you doing Dry January? I generally don’t drink during the week. It’s good to give your liver a break in the New Year. 7 Will your perm ever make a comeback? I don’t think so. It was a strange mix of my naturally curly hair with a perm on top. I’ve been straightening my hair since the 90s. The singer on bath oil, perms and Top of the Pops Barbara Dickson tours the UK from 17 March, barbaradickson.net/tour Interview: Nick Neads Photography: Credit tk, Getty Images, © StockFood, © Brian Arris

9 20 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS JAW-DROPPING DISCOVERY Imagine his surprise when, during landscaping work at Rutland Water Nature Reserve, employee Joe Davis spotted a large jawbone in the mud. “I rang up the county council and said: ‘I think I’ve found a dinosaur,’” says Joe. It was the 10-metre long fossil of an ichthyosaur, a sea predator that swam in the ocean there 200 million years ago, and his discovery has been declared ‘unprecedented’. IT’S LICK JAGGER Images of The Rolling Stones grace 12 new stamps issued by the Royal Mail to celebrate the band’s 60th anniversary. The Stones collaborated on the stamps, which feature photos of famous gigs spanning the decades, from London’s Hyde Park in 1969 to Düsseldorf, Germany in 2017. They follow just three other music groups – The Beatles, Pink Floyd and Queen – in having their own set, which go on sale today (20 January). THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of heartwarming stories Pizza import makes a deep impact New nature reserves, woodlands and wetlands will be created on England’s farms as a result of a pair of government schemes designed to boost biodiversity and help combat climate change. In its first phase alone, which will fund up to 15 pilot projects nationwide, Landscape Recovery aims to restore at least 10,000 hectares of habitat, boost as many as 57%of struggling Species of Special Importance, fromwater voles to wild asparagus, and save between 25 and 50 tonnes of carbon annually, equivalent to taking 12,000-plus cars o the road. Applications will be invited for the pilot funding imminently. Coming fromboth the Department for Environment, Food &Rural A airs and the private sector, it will be awarded to large-scale schemes, spanning 500 to 5,000 hectares, which have a focus on recovering and restoring both threatened species and waterways. Local Nature Recovery, successor to the Countryside Stewardship Scheme, will pay for smaller-scale on-farmactivity, such as replenishing hedgerows and peat zones, and is scheduled to launch in 2024. Alice Ryan England’s farms go wild to tackle climate change SEEING THE LIGHT Farmers can help boost diversity It’s a rectangular pizza with a deep (and deceptively light) focaccia-type base, covered in crispy-edgedmelting cheese and typically topped with tomato sauce, in a reversal of the classic Neapolitan. And if you haven’t tried it yet you should, because Detroit-style pizza is having amoment. The four-cornered favourite has taken hold across America in the past six years and, since the start of 2021, pizza entrepreneurs here have followed suit. There’s Ramona, which opened in an old MOT station inManchester last spring, while Middlesbrough’s Slice Boro sold out on its first weekend of opening in October. Party Store Pizzamoved fromdelivery only to permanent restaurant in London last summer and, at the start of December, American ‘pizza czar’ Anthony Falco launched a three-month residency called Four Corners at Rondo La Cave inHolborn. All specialise in Detroit-style pizza – a descendant of the rectangular Sicilian-style – which traces its origins to America’s industrial city in the 40s. “There was a bar in Detroit called Buddy’s, and the owner, who had a Sicilian relative, said: ‘Let me take a whack at making pizza,’” explains Anthony. “The thing that makes it Detroit is the pan – this high-walled, slightly angled steel pan that was originally, the story goes, a leftover piece of equipment from the auto-manufacturing industry. The cheese runs to the edge, and that crispy cheese crust is a defining factor.” Toppings at Rondo La Cave include vodka meatball andmashed potato with bacon, while Party Store Pizza o ers bothmeat and plant-based options such as vegan mozzarella and BombayMix. BradMains, founder of Slice Boro, started making pizza as a lockdown hobby, then became hooked on Detroit-style. “There was a gap in themarket,” he says. “It looks really dense but when you bite in it’s really light, with amountain of cheese on top. It’s lovely.” Anna-Marie Julyan SLICE OF THE ACTION Detroit-style pizza at Four Corners restaurant TEARLESS ONIONS Streaming eyes caused by chopping onions could be a thing of the past, thanks to a new variety available exclusively at Waitrose. Sunions, the ärst tearless variety, are crossbred to avoid stinging eyes (the chemical responsible is called synPropanethial-S-oxide). Milder and sweeter than regular onions, Sunions can be enjoyed cooked or raw. MESSAGES OF HOPE Anyone can now leave support messages for NHS workers at free phone service Hopeline19. It was set up by ad agency Adam & Eve DDB and charity Frontline19, which offers free counselling to NHS staff and other frontline health workers. It’s hoped that the messages will give them a lift when they dial in and listen. Call 0808 196 6519. Photography: Haydon Perrior, Getty Images

10 20 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Kenneth Branagh can pinpoint the end of his childhood innocence to a singlemoment in time. “I was heading back in for my tea, having been called by the bush telegraph of my mumyelling on the front step, and that cry being carried, relay-style, by half a dozen other mums,” Kenneth recalls of the August evening in 1969 when life inMountcollyer Street, north Belfast, changed forever. “As I was coming in, there was this sort of surreal slowdown of sound and vision. At first I thought it was a bee, then a swarmof bees. Then I gradually realised that the shadowy shapes at the bottomof the street weren’t bees, it was a crowd. It was a riotingmob, and it was coming our way.” This sudden explosion of incendiary violence, in which a frenziedmob burned all the street’s Catholic families out of their homes, is vividly recreated in Kenneth’s terrific, semiautobiographical new film Belfast – a captivating chronicle of a year in the life of The Troubles, as seen through the eyes of nine-year-old Protestant schoolboy Buddy (Jude Hill). “I was lucky, because I was grabbed bymymother and shoved under the kitchen table,” the 61-year-old tells Weekend. “But from that point on, we lived in a state of high alert. It seemed like the last day of childhood, I guess is how it strikes me.” It would also prove to be a turning point in ways the eightyear-old Kenneth couldn’t have begun to imagine. “I think the vividness of those 20 seconds, where it kicked o , has basically hauntedme,” he says. “It was literally the 20 seconds inwhichmy life changed. I wasn’t going to live there anymore [after much soul-searching, the familymoved to England to escape the violence the following year], I wasn’t going to sound like that anymore, I wasn’t going to do anything that I might have done coming out of that particular culture.” Inmany ways, it changed for the better, setting the future Sir Kenneth Branagh (he was knighted in 2012) on the route to becoming one of Britain’s most vital creative forces, achieving success as an actor, writer, director and producer in everything from Henry V and Hamlet to Harry Potter and Hercule Poirot (and that’s just the Hs). But he has always carried a certain grief – perhaps even a degree of unprocessed trauma – for the life he lost. “One of the things that I think led to the delay in finally investigating this was the fact we never spoke about it as a family,” he says. “There was an absolute in-built belief that you shouldn’t indulge in your so-called su ering, when so many other people have real problems. But although lots of masks and disguises have been in the way from there to here, I feel that, essentially, you can take the boy out of Belfast, but you can’t take Belfast out of the boy. “I’ve wanted to write something about Belfast for a long time,” he adds, “and as I’ve considered it over the years, it was the leaving of Belfast that had clearly dominatedmy life. Up until nine years old, it was a very secure life. I lived in a street that advertised the idea that it takes a village to raise a child, and I was very happy in that village. I knew everybody, and everybody knew us. But then the world turned upside down.” In the film, Jamie Dornan plays Buddy’s pa, a carpenter who spends much of his time working away in England – as did Kenneth’s own father, William, a joiner – while his ma (Caitríona Balfe) does the hard parenting yards. Also looming large in Buddy’s world are his grandparents, played with twinkly, scene-stealing charmby CiaránHinds and longtime Branagh collaborator Dame Judi Dench. (“She’s a remarkable person who has enrichedmy life,” he smiles.) With a Golden Globes best screenplay win adding to the film’s Oscars buzz, Belfast pulls o the tripwire act of being warmly nostalgic, without flinching from the brutal reality of sectarian violence (a ‘tribal, polarising, with-us-or-against-us’ mentality that feels horribly relevant to today’s politics, notes Kenneth). It is also a hymn to its creator’s love of stage and screen. Whilemost of the action unfolds in black and white, whenever Buddy steps into a theatre or cinema – to watch Chitty Chitty Bang Bang take flight, or boggle at Raquel Welch in her fur bikini – the world explodes into colour. “My imagination lit up,” explains Kenneth. “I lived in a sort of fantastically impressivemonochrome world. It rained a lot, we lived under northern skies, on a very cold latitude. So going to the cinema – which was amuchmore comfortable experience than going to church – was just full of colour. I was small, but themovie palaces, they seemed huge. Theymade a big stamp onmy imagination.” What would young Kenneth havemade of the idea he would go on to forge a successful career in that Technicolor world? “He’d be bamboozled to the point of incomprehension. It’s in the film– there’s amoment where this kid is sitting, as I did, outside a betting shop reading a comic, whilemy father’s putting a bet on. In this case, it was Thor, and if you’d said tome: ‘In about 40 years’ time, you’ll go to a place calledHollywood, and you’ll make amotion picture of this’ [he directed the 2011Marvel filmadaptation] I’d have said I hadmore chance of going to Venus.” In 1970, WilliamBranagh arrived with his pregnant wife ‘The 20 seconds that turned my world upside down’ More than 50 years after leaving Northern Ireland to escape The Troubles, Sir Kenneth Branagh has turned his Belfast childhood into his most personal film yet. Paul Kirkley meets him end of childhood Jude Hill and Jamie Dornan in Belfast

11 20 J ANUARY 202 2 Photography: Alamy Stock Photo, Rii Schroer/eyevine

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13 20 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS Frances and their two boys to begin a new life in Reading, Berkshire. “I wanted to fit in,” admits Kenneth, who tried to suppress his Irish accent. “You sort of had to become another person. Wemoved up in the social scale a bit, too, the lower middle-class thing, and that in itself was a little hard to get to grips with. People ate di erent things, wore di erent things. In Belfast, everybody had been in the same boat. “I went to a fairly rufty-tufty secondary school, where I was bullied for a bit, and that closedme down. But I toughened up pretty quickly, and I likedmy time in Reading.” Having discovered a love of drama through school plays and a local theatre group, Kenneth won a place at Rada, and quickly found himself emerging at the head of a newwave of classical actors. At 26, he co-founded the Renaissance Theatre Company, and was hailed as the greatest young actor of his generation. Was that a healthy thing to be told at that age? “Well that’s where the Belfast thing was a help,” he smiles. “You couldn’t take it seriously, because nobody you knew or had been brought up with would allow you to. Getting ideas above your station was the cardinal sin.” How, then, didWilliamand Frances react when, at just 28, their son cemented his reputation as ‘the next Laurence Olivier’ by writing, directing and starring in an acclaimed new filmadaptation of Henry V? “They didn’t really get what my job was,” he says. “When they visited the set of Henry V, they were astonished by the size of it. My father’s first question tome as we walked around the set of the English Court was: ‘What’s going to happen to all this wood?’ I think it found a good home, thanks to his natural interest in timber.” Since that first flush of success, there have been a few bumps in the road along the way. His 1994 adaptation of Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein was a critical and commercial bomb, and a run of flops in the early noughties saw his stock fall for a time (though he did win an Emmy for playing SS leader ReinhardHeydrich in 2001’s Conspiracy, and plaudits for his self-satirising turn as peacocking professor Gilderoy Lockhart in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets). The past 15 years have found himback on a roll, though, directing box hits such as Thor, Cinderella and Murder on the Orient Express (a sequel, Death on the Nile, is due later this year, for which he’ll reprise his star turn as Hercule Poirot). In 2015, he formed a new theatre company, with himself as actor-manager, while recent screen roles have included Dunkirk, Tenet and his Bafta and Emmy-winning stint in Wallander, the BBC’s adaptation of HenningMankell’s novels. “You just have to accept you’re going tomake a lot of mistakes,” he says, of sustaining a long-lived career. “You’re going to annoy the bejesus out of a lot of people. You just are, and I always have. So you have to learn to live with that and go: ‘Well that ain’t much of a cross to bear…’” As a working class joiner’s son fromBelfast, was Kenneth ever bothered by the popular depiction of himand his first wife Emma Thompson as Britain’s leading ‘luvvies’? “I’ve never had any complaints, or none that I would voice beyondmy own living room,” he shrugs. “OscarWilde, who was a famous inhabitant of Reading during the two awful years he spent in jail there, used to say: ‘There’s only one thing worse than being talked about, and that’s not being talked about.’ “I’ve never made any great claims to working class hero status,” he adds. “It’s just a fact of where I emerged from, and it’s had a significant impact on the way I’ve approached everything – including Shakespeare. I’ve always felt art should be for all, because that’s kind of built into where I came from.” Belfast is in cinemas from21 January FROM BELFAST TO BORIS After his marriage to Emma Thompson ended in 1995, Kenneth had a fouryear relationship with his Frankenstein co-star Helena Bonham Carter. He married älm art director Lindsay Brunnock in 2003. Belfast opens with a montage of hero shots showcasing his hometown as a modern, vibrant city. Is Kenneth worried that recent events have put all that progress at risk? “Everybody would have to be worried about it,” he says. “We know that Brexit became an issue without a real sense of how the island of Ireland would be affected by it. Plus it’s a very volatile political landscape in the north of Ireland. The peace has to be won every day. It’s a fragile thing.” Later this year, Kenneth will be seen as Boris Johnson – complete with full make-up transformation – in Michael Winterbottom’s Covid 19 TV drama This Sceptred Isle. “The job is to be as accurate and as unsentimental as you can,” he says of playing the divisive PM. “You have a job to do, which the script requires, and you do it.” family role Kenneth with his wife, film art director Lindsay Brunnock all change The actor as Boris Johnson in This Sceptred Isle (below) and in Harry Potter (right) ‘I’ve never made any great claims to working class hero status. It’s just a fact of where I emerged from’ Photography: Phil Fisk for Sky UK, Alamy Stock Photo, Getty Images

20 J ANUARY 202 2 15 FOOD&DRINK Star of the East Ghillie Basan gives the haggis a delicious Anatolian twist p19 Spirit guide Pierpaolo Petrassi picks his top whiskies for Burns Night p23 Look north Diana Henry celebrates Scotland with a hearty winter menu p24 Photogrpahy: Simon Reed Food Styling: Joss Herd Props Styling: Lucy Attwater

20 J ANUARY 202 2 16 To make delicious and nutritious choices, look for our Good Health label FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Healthy Every Day It’s Burns Night next week (25 January), and although I’m not Scottish, it’s something I look forward to celebrating every year. It comes at a time when we could all do with something to brighten up the cold, dark nights, and there’s no need to agonise over the menu! The traditional Burns Night meal of haggis, neeps and tatties – mashed swede and potatoes – is really easy to do, too, and perfect comfort food for this time of year. You’ll änd haggis in the chilled section of your local store, and don’t forget a warming wee dram of whisky – check out Pierpaolo Petrassi’s suggestions (p23). ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Mackerel with caramelised onions &wilted pak choi Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 30 minutes 3 tsp wok oil 3 medium onions, thinly sliced 25g piece ginger, peeled and grated 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 380g pack frozen mackerel ällets ½-1 tsp Chinese äve spice powder 300g pack Singapore rice noodles 235g pack green pak choi ¼ x 25g pack coriander, chopped 3 tbsp reduced salt light soy sauce 1 tbsp clear honey 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Heat 2 tsp of the wok oil in a frying pan and fry the onions for 5-6 minutes, stirring frequently until golden. Stir in the ginger and garlic and turn into a roasting tin. Rub the mackerel all over with the äve spice and add to the tin, skin-side up. Bake for 20 minutes, or until cooked through and opaque. 2 Cook the rice noodles according to pack instructions. Cut the leafy ends from the pak choi, then slice the stalks and tear the leaves into pieces. Heat the remaining 1 tsp oil in a frying pan and fry the stalks for 1 minute. Add the leaves and fry brieåy, until just beginning to wilt. 3 Transfer the noodles to serving plates and scatter with the coriander. Arrange the mackerel, onions and greens on top. Put the soy sauce, honey and 2 tbsp water in the frying pan and heat until bubbling. Spoon over the mackerel and serve. Per serving 1794kJ/429kcals/21g fat/ 4.2g saturated fat/36g carbs/12g sugars/4.5g äbre/21g protein/1.3g salt/ 3200mg omega 3/1 of your 5 a day High in omega 3 Nut patties with sweet potatoes & tomato salad Serves 4 Prepare 15 minutes Cook 35-40 minutes 500g pack skin-on sweet potato wedges 3 tsp chilli-infused olive oil 1 tbsp lemon thyme, chopped, plus extra for garnish 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tsp sundried tomato paste 300g pack red choice tomatoes, cut into wedges 1 bunch continental salad onions, trimmed and roughly chopped 2 large sticks celery, roughly chopped 100g mixed nuts 3 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Red Miso 1 tsp smoked paprika 50g Cooks’ Ingredients Breadcrumbs (from the chiller) 1 Preheat the oven to 220ºC, gas mark 7. Scatter the potato wedges in a roasting tin, brush with 1 tsp of the oil and cook according to pack instructions. Meanwhile, combine the thyme, vinegar, tomato paste, 2 tsp water and a little black pepper in a bowl and mix with the tomato wedges. 2 Put the onions, celery, nuts, garlic, miso and paprika in a food processor and blend until coarsely chopped. Add the breadcrumbs and blend brieåy to make a thick, coarse paste. Shape into 8 balls and åatten into cakes. 3 Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan. Fry the patties for 2 minutes on each side, or until lightly browned. Serve with the sweet potatoes and tomato salad, garnished with extra thyme leaves. V Per serving 1710kJ/410kcals/21g fat/2.6g saturated fat/41g carbs/25g sugars/9g äbre/8.8g protein/0.5g salt/2 of your 5 a day/vegan Low in saturated fat Cook’s tip Tatsoi, another Asian green vegetable, is similar in texture and åavour to pak choi and can be used instead. Alternatively, use chard or even änely shredded spring greens as a tasty alternative. Cook’s tip These little patties have a similar åavour to a nut roast and therefore work equally well served with roast potatoes and vegetables. A tub of Essential Waitrose Tomato & Chilli Sauce or a more traditional vegetarian gravy would make an easy accompaniment.

20 J ANUARY 202 2 17 CASHBACK ON GOOD HEALTH FOODS FOR VITALITY MEMBERS If you are a Vitality member with a myWaitrose card, you can receive up to 25% cashback onWaitrose food that carries the Good Health label – visit vitality.co.uk for details. Recipes: Joanna Farrow Photography: Mowie Kay Food Styling: Joss Herd Props Styling: Wei Tang Cook’s tip For a vegetarian version of this recipe, replace the äsh with vegetables such as broccoli and cauliåower åorets, or asparagus, cooked in the milk as above. Cook’s tip Fresh tarragon freezes well. If you don’t have an immediate use for the rest of the pack, pull the leaves from the stalks, pop them back into the herb pack, seal and freeze until needed. You will have a little cream cheese left from this recipe. It’s delicious spread onto bread or toast, but it’s also really good stirred into a portion of pasta or risotto too. Cook’s tip If time is short a pack of Cooks’ Ingredients Frozen Celeriac makes a great standby for mash. Cook as above, allowing just 3-4 minutes cooking time once the water is boiling, ensuring it is cooked through and piping hot. Cod, egg & spinach kedgeree Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 125g brown basmati rice 2 Clarence Court Burford Browns Medium Eggs 1 large onion, änely chopped 240g pack No.1 Icelandic Cod Loin 100ml milk ½ tsp ground turmeric 50g Cooks’ Ingredients Keralan Curry Paste 2 tbsp reduced fat British crème fraîche 115g pack baby spinach 1 Cook the rice in a saucepan of boiling water for 20 minutes, or until just tender. Put the eggs in a small pan, cover with just-boiled water and cook over a high heat for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat but leave in the pan of water. 2 Put the onion, cod loin and milk into a large shallow pan or frying pan and cover with a lid. Cook gently for about 5 minutes, or until the äsh is cooked through and opaque. Lift out the äsh and åake into large pieces. 3 Stir the turmeric, curry paste, crème fraîche and 2-3 tbsp water into the pan. Once combined, add the spinach and heat brieåy, stirring until starting to wilt. Thoroughly drain the rice and scatter over the spinach with the åaked äsh. Heat through brieåy, stir to combine then transfer to plates. Peel and discard the egg shell, cut into halves and serve on top of the kedgeree. Per serving 2064kJ/490kcals/14g fat/5.9g saturated fat/48g carbs/13g sugars/6.8g äbre/40g protein/1.3g salt/1 of your 5 a day/gluten free High in protein Mushroom, butternut & blue cheese hotpot Serves 4 Prepare 20 minutes Cook 35 minutes 400g pack crispy potato slices 1 onion, chopped 1 fennel bulb, sliced 4 tsp olive oil 4 cloves garlic, crushed 500g chestnut mushrooms, thickly sliced 250g frozen diced butternut vine squash 100g Paysan Breton Blue Cream Cheese 75ml milk ¼ x 20g pack tarragon, stalks removed 100g watercress or steamed green vegetables, to serve 1 Preheat the oven to 200ºC, gas mark 6. Scatter the potato slices on a baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Gently fry the onion and fennel in 1 tsp of the oil for 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and tip out onto a plate. Add the mushrooms to the pan, drizzle with the remaining oil and fry for 5 minutes, stirring frequently until softened. Add the butternut squash and cook for a further 3 minutes, ensuring the squash is cooked through and piping hot. 2 Slide the fennel and onions back into the pan and add the blue cream cheese, milk and tarragon. Heat gently until the cheese has melted. Season with black pepper and turn into a pie dish. 3 Arrange the potato slices on top and return to the oven for a further 15 minutes. Serve with watercress or green vegetables on the side. Per serving 1714kJ/410kcals/20g fat/ 5.8g saturated fat/42g carbs/9.9g sugars/7.1g äbre/11g protein/0.9g salt/ source of äbre 2 of your 5 a day Citrus pork with celeriac mash Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 1 medium celeriac, about 500g, peeled and cut into small chunks 240g pack No.1 Free Range Pork Medallions ½ tbsp butter ½ small fennel, very thinly sliced 1 large echalion shallot, änely chopped 1 large orange, änely grated zest of ½ plus juice 4 tsp Seville orange marmalade 1 tsp white wine vinegar Generous pinch ground allspice ½ tsp cornåour 150g äne green beans, trimmed 1 Preheat the grill to its highest setting. Cook the celeriac in boiling water for 12 minutes, or until soft. Line a grill rack with foil, add the pork, season then grill for 5 minutes on each side, until cooked through, there is no pink meat and juices run clear. 2 Melt ½ the butter in a small saucepan and gently fry the fennel and shallot for 5 minutes. Stir in the orange zest and juice, the marmalade, vinegar, allspice and 3 tbsp water. Cover and cook gently for 5 minutes, until the fennel is tender. Blend the cornåour in a small bowl with 1 tbsp water. Add to the sauce. Cook, stirring until bubbling and slightly thickened. 3 Cook the beans in boiling water for 3-4 minutes, until tender. Thoroughly drain the celeriac and mash well with the remaining butter and a little black pepper. Spoon onto serving plates with the pork and sauce. Serve with the green beans. Per serving 1478kJ/354kcals/15g fat/5.8g saturated fat/19g carbs/16g sugars/13g äbre/30g protein/0.8g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day/gluten free High in äbre