13 J ANUARY 202 2 18 FOOD&DRINK First Bites Photography: Nani Gutiérrez Homemade or froma jar, youmay still have some cranberry sauce left over from Christmas. The good news is that its vibrant colour and sweet-but-slightly-sour flavour havemuch to o er the winter kitchen. There are plenty of things you can do with the leftovers so that nothing goes to waste. Better still, these ideas stretch far beyond a simple addition to a ploughman’s or a sandwich, as they addmuch to sauces, casseroles, stews, curries and sweet and savoury bakes. 1 SPICY CRANBERRY RELISH For a simple store-cupboard collaboration, mix sweet chilli sauce with leftover cranberry sauce. Add a little lime juice and, if needed, some fish sauce (nam pla). Use to top burgers or tacos, drizzle over stir fries or salads, spoon into cheese toasties or bacon butties, or as a glaze for meat, fish, chicken or sausages – simply brush over the top for the last fewminutes of cooking, keeping an eye on it so it doesn’t burn. 2 CRANBERRY & GINGER REFRESHER If you’re steering clear of excess, or if a week or two of abstinence fromalcohol is needed, there’s no need to feel hard done by. Making some e ort to create a delicious drink can still feel indulgent. Spoon a little cranberry sauce into the bottomof a tumbler, add ice and top up with ginger beer, before stirring and serving with a lemon wedge. 3 FRUIT & NUT OVERNIGHT OATS Winter mornings require fuel, so a good breakfast is essential. Get ahead and prepare yours the night before. Spoon some cranberry sauce into the base of a dish or jar. Mix some porridge oats with a littlemilk, fruit juice (apple, orange or cranberry work well) or water and spoon over the top. Cover and refrigerate to become creamy overnight, before adding fruit, nuts, seeds and Greek or natural yogurt to serve. A little clear honey and nut butter alsomake tasty additions. 3 ways with… Cranberry sauce “In summer, when temperatures can reach 40°C, we have to take a lot of care of the trees – each one gets 70 litres of water a day fromour wells. And then winter comes, the oranges reach the perfect colour and harvest finally arrives. It’s a really busy time, with around 50 people picking and 30 or somore packing, and lorries coming and going. “Normally, we’ll send eight or nine lorries, each carrying 20,000 kilos of oranges, toWaitrose, but last year, when you were in lockdown and everyone was finding things to do at home, we sent 12 lorries. “Around 80%of our Seville oranges go to the UK and Ireland, and it’s nice to think of all the people over there who aremaking marmalade with them. “I thinkmarmalademaking is quite a special thing, and we always make some ourselves, usingmy grandmother’s recipe – it’s not a tradition in Spain, but it is a tradition in our family.” José Luis Gahona’s family grows a bitter variety of Seville oranges for Waitrose at their farm near the Andalusian capital that’s perfect for marmalade Meet the producer ‘Making marmalade is a special thing’ “Oranges have been grown at the AveMaria farm for more than 100 years – in fact, our oldest trees were planted in the 1860s,” says José (above). “The soil here is rich in phosphorus fromancient marine sediments, and together with our very hot summers and cool winters, it gives our Seville oranges a special flavour that you don’t find anywhere else. “My grandfather bought the land in 1935, then in the 60s, my parents plantedmore orchards, brought in electricity and dug wells and really began the business that we have today. But we still do a lot of things the traditional way – we don’t put any chemicals on the trees, we use beneficial insects to deal with pests and all the oranges are picked by hand, from ladders. “Cultivating the oranges is a year-round process. In the spring, the farm is full of the scent of orange blossom, then when the blossoms drop, you see the tiny green fruit that will grow into beautiful oranges.