Waitrose & Partners Weekend Issue 584

FREE 13 January 2022 Spicy greens and double cheese elevate the humble sandwich staple in Elly Curshen’s irresistible menu, p23 Warm and toastie On selected products at Waitrose, p42 J ANUARY FASHION New season essentials to transform your wardrobe p37 ELVIS COSTELLO Music, guardian angels and becoming an author p10 12-PAGE SPECIAL No and low-alcohol drinks masterclass

2 13 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VIEWS Taking a f lexible approach to food Mealtimes are a carefully crafted pleasure at a London school for autistic children – Anna-Marie Julyan finds out why It’s lunchtime at Kensington Queensmill School and children tuck into plates of chicken or vegetable curry with naan bread and rice alongside roasted courgette and red onion. Others have pasta with a side dish of chopped tomato and cucumber, or sandwiches. One boy eats a bowl of breadsticks; another a dish of orange slices. The variety of what’s on o er and what the children choose is striking. This is Kensington and Chelsea’s first dedicated school for children with autism and learning di culties. It opened in September with 55 children aged from three to 19, all with complex needs and a complicated relationship with food. In the UK, one in 100 people are on the autism spectrumand there are around 700,000 autistic adults and children. Many will know someone with the condition, or come into contact with it on a daily basis, so what happens at The Queensmill Trust – two oversubscribed specialist schools including the original Queensmill in Shepherd’s Bush and an additional college for 19-year-olds who have graduated – is an example worth studying. The head chef is Djalma Lucio Polli de Carvalho – known as Lucio – who won an Observer Food Monthly outstanding achievement award in 2015 for his school meals. He is the ultimate example of what people like Jamie Oliver and Prue Leith have campaigned for, and when you see and taste the food, it’s not hard to understand why Lucio won his award. At the servery there’s a colourful array of options – little gem salad tossed with chilli and avocado, another with new potato and smokedmackerel, brown rice, white rice, curries, homemade chilli sauce, beef pho, pillowy naan, roasted vegetables, fresh fruit… the list goes on. “My food is always made fresh and hot, not cooked at 9am,” says Lucio. “I try to introduce the children to as much as possible. It might take time for some, but it’s there for them to explore.” He relies on a team, some froma che ng background, others not, saying: “I look for people who have a little bit of finesse.” “Lucio knows everyone’s special arrangements and is curious to find out what else theymight try,” explains The Queensmill Trust schools’ executive head Freddie Adu. Splitting from their local authority school meal service in 2013 to go it alone with a chef was ‘a brave step’, but one they don’t regret. The flexible approach Lucio takes – servingmeat separately from the sauce if that’s what’s requested, or producing a bowl of hot chips for a child who won’t eat anything else – is key, according to Caroline Bulmer, therapies and family support manager at The Queensmill Trust. “For somany of our children, food has a significant impact on their day-to-day learning and life at school,” she says. “A great deal of children with autismhave a restricted diet, often linked to their sensory processing which impacts how they cope with and manage di erent tastes and textures. There are the demands of themealtime as well – the social demands, the smells; if you are hyper-sensitive to sensory information then mealtimes are often really challenging.” The Trust’s approach to school dinners could also be seen as a beacon for all children. The variety on o er has made a noticeable di erence at next-door mainstream school Barlby Primary, which has shared the same kitchen since the building opened in September. Uptake of school meals has increased 15% and children aremore focused on their learning in the afternoons, according to Barlby headteacher AnthonyMannix. Autism is a neuro-developmental condition diagnosed on the basis of behaviour, typically di culties in social interaction and communication. Many autistic children and adults have highly focused interests, and over or under-sensitivity to light, sound or touch. Diagnosis is three times more common in boys than girls, both due to ‘I try to introduce children to as much food as possible. It might take time for some, but it’s there for them to explore’ ALL SMILES Younes discovering more about di erent foods (right); Dion and Mehret in a group session (below right); vegetable curry with naan bread (below) Cover photography: Tom Regester, Getty Images

3 13 J ANUARY 202 2 additional challenges. About one-third will have intellectual disability, a third have epilepsy and autistic people very commonly su er fromanxiety and depression. It’s these additional things that oftenmake life di cult, as well as being victimised or stigmatised, not the autism itself.” She prefers to think of autismas a constellation rather than a one-dimensional spectrum, and emphasises the importance of environmental fit in dictating howwell someone lives with the condition. At KensingtonQueensmill the environment is calm. The new building has been designed with sound dampening, so corridors feel quiet rather than echoey. There are ear defenders in each room for the children if needed. They can order their meals by handing over pictures, and sta members gently assist everywhere (a typical class has nine children and five adults). “We understand what they like and what motivates them, because that’s really important to keep their equilibrium,” explains Freddie. At a food group, occupational therapist LaurenWilliams is running an activity for children to play with food and becomemore familiar with it. One little boy, Ahmet, loves the smell of lemons and limes, so gently rolls themaround, bringing them to his mouth and nose. There is runny honey, squirty cream and sprinkles. The children engage and play, occasionally taking a break to rock on a little chair or cross the room. Lauren tells me about an 11-year-old boy called Elias. When hemoved to the school fromShepherd’s Bush Queensmill last September, he refused to eat lunch, probably due to increased anxiety and Covid-related disruption to his routine. Up to the age of nine he only ate liquid food, soups and yogurt. By spending one-on-one time with him and starting small, Lauren has got himeating school lunches again. “Before we put food on his plate I’d take sensory balls and roll themup and down his arms and cheeks, then did the same with the piece of food,” she says. “The sensory balls were part of our routine until last week. Now they are just there in a bag and he comes in the lunch hall and asks for what he wants, sometimes seconds.” Elias’ LEADING CHANGE The Queensmill Trusts’ Freddie Adu, Caroline Bulmer and Lauren Williams ( left); Chris Packham and Melanie Sykes (below) TASTY OFFERINGS Little gem and avocado salad, couscous salad, mackerel and new potato salad ( left); Elias weighs up his options (below left); chef Djalma Lucio Polli de Carvalho (below) FOOD AND AUTISM Many children are picky eaters, but it’s estimated that autistic children are äve times more likely to have problematic eating patterns. Professor Francesca Happé suggests a few tips. Keep a food diary Write down what your child is eating, when, and the circumstances. For instance eating with others may be overwhelming, or may encourage eating a wider range of foods. Social stories Write a simple story in text or using pictures for or with your child, explaining how our bodies need different types of food as fuel. Think visual Autistic children often take in information better visually than verbally, so having a photo menu or schedule of what they’ll eat may make meals less unpredictable and stressful. Make a collage of food pictures in different food groups. Consider texture If they reject foods because of the texture, will broccoli be accepted as a soup, or peas as a purée? Even if they put food in their mouth and spit it out, this could be a small step forward in exploring new foods. historic under-diagnosis of the latter, but also because developmental conditions typically a ect boys more. Although it’s not rare, autism is beset by misunderstanding. Thankfully, awareness is rising, especially recently, as public figures such as TV presenterMelanie Sykes, environmentalist Chris Packhamand reality star andmodel ChristineMcGuinness have talked openly about their diagnoses. Francesca Happé, professor of cognitive neuroscience at King’s College London, has specialised in autism for 30 years. She says: “Very often, autistic people have first food, other than hot chips, was mashed potato, which dining hall sta took o the top of ameat pie. “Lucio has such a variety of foods available all the time so it’s quite easy to support Elias,” adds Lauren. The relief for his mum, Rana Haddad, is clear to see. “The school phoned and said he doesn’t eat at lunch and I said that’s normal, but they said ‘no, we have to try’,” Rana recalls. “They tried hard and had success. Nowwhen he comes back from school he always says he’s full. They gaveme a plan and helped withme ideas.” What would Caroline Bulmer like people to understand about autism? “Themain thing is that it is a di erence,” she says. “It’s a di erence in the way the world is seen and experienced, and it’s not a wrong way, it’s just di erent to the neurotypical way. The world is set up for people who don’t have autism, not for those who have autism, and by making adjustments and accommodating for that, life would bemuch easier for them.” Photography: David Cotsworth ,Getty Images

4 13 J ANUARY 202 2 GREAT JANUARY SAVINGS These free range pork medallions are tender, full of åavour and hand-trimmed for leaner meat. Enjoy them tenderised and coated in panko breadcrumbs in this Japanese-inspired sesame pork tonkatsu, with rice and a fresh slaw. You can änd the recipe at waitrose.com OUR PORK I S A CUT ABOVE Waitrose & Partners No.1 Free Range Pork Medallions 25% off £3/240g (was £4, offer ends 25 January) Prices correct at time of going to print. Offer ends 5 April. Selected stores. Subject to availability

5 13 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS WEEK 2: DOING WITHOUT DAIRY When you love pasta as much as my children do, eating veggiemeals is no big deal. Take away the parmesan, however, and it’s a di erent story. Without that dollop of soured creamon soups, or grated Cheddar on pulses, I’mnot sure they’d eat these things. But after redmeat, dairy is the next biggest carbon culprit. Figures reveal that cheese creates more CO2 per kilo than pork or chicken. “Most of the emissions from cheese are related to the farmand the cows, which producemethane, but it also takes a lot of milk to produce a little cheese,” says Professor LorraineWhitmarsh, director of the UK’s Centre for Climate Change and Social Transformations. I’ve always wanted to give veganisma go, so with the promise of vegan ice cream, we embark on a week of vegan familymeals. The first discovery is that it’s not easy to transition overnight. We still have eggs to use up and a big chunk of parmesan in the fridge. When we try a pasta dish with a vegan version, this is not forgotten. My 10-year-old says he can smell it fromhis bedroom. But lots of things do go well. Wemake a delicious Jamie Oliver veggie chilli that we load onto nachos and don’t evenmiss the soured cream. We discover we prefer the plant-basedMovingMountains hot dogs to classic meat ones. I realise that I turn to staples like fish fingers out of habit. My family is just as happy with seitan slices or LindaMcCartney’s sausages. The kids love oat milk, but I prefer the real deal inmy tea. While I’mhappy to reduce our dairy intake, I’mnot ready to give it up. If nothing else, going veganmademe realise how easy it is to be vegetarian. My year of living sustainably ANNA SHEPARD MY WEEK Alvin Hall A friend and I always have our ‘annual lunch’ over the Christmas-NewYear period. It’s the only time that we actually make a plan to see each other. This year, we added a new friend and, because of the surge in Covid, we replaced our lunch with a conference call. All of us have admitted to having Zoom fatigue, so we didn’t need to see each other on screen to enjoy the company. We spent much of the hour catching up on the details of our lives – some good, some not so good. We laughed a lot – all open, frank, and honest – even noting how ridiculous we had sometimes been in certain situations. As we talked, one question lingered inmymind, so I asked each of us to answer it: what have we learned about ourselves during the pandemic that we will use tomake the upcoming year and years better? The new friend stated confidently the lesson she had learned in a succinct phrase: “Let go and let God take control.” I sensed that this has become a reassuringmantra for her. Having grown up in a fundamentalist Christianworld, I know this language, I know thismindset. This is her way of dealing with the deaths, the uncertainty, and her lack of control during the pandemic. My second friend noted that we had all gone through ‘universal trauma’. This was her lesson. She continued by quoting other two- and three-word phrases –most adding more adjectives before the word trauma or substituting another word for trauma. It seemed that these sound-bite descriptions soothed her. They help her categorise her feelings and connect them to a larger universal feeling she believes exists. Her words were all rational, logical andmeasured, but her tone of voice revealed something di erent: frustration, even anger. She wants her life to return ‘to what it used to be’ before the pandemic. Since our conversation, I findmyself wondering, why the focus on this ‘before’? I didn’t hear her say what she had learned that would be useful for the future. I started explaining what I had learned by saying that I felt very lucky. When I was growing up, my parents repeatedly and firmly toldme andmy siblings that we had to always learn the wisdomof life’s good times and bad times and then carry that wisdom into the future. That wisdom is the key tomaking things better. I explained that I learned somuch fromother people about being flexible and not lettingmy fears overwhelm me. The pandemic promptedme to take long walk-and-talks with friends to stay in touch. Others I know beganmeeting friends and neighbours regularly – far more often than before, but outside and socially distanced – or began shopping for friends who felt especially vulnerable. It seems likely that this behavior will carry forward, to the future ‘after’. Even when people we knew died of Covid, friends and I didn’t let it cause us to shut ourselves away in worry, sadness, anger, or worry. Wemourned and then continued to live – definitely not in the same way we had in the past, but in often di erent ways that remain filled with camaraderie, care, laughter andmutual respect. I was surprised when, at the end of our chat, my friends suggested that these words would be our mutual resolution for 2022, but each living and sharing it in their own way. “We will be carrying the wisdom forward,” one said. As we chuckled in agreement, I thought my parents andmy grandparents would be pleased. Good and bad times give us wisdom we can carry forward Illustration by: Olivia Waller/Folioart Illustration: Amelia Flower/Foliart

6 13 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS IN MY OPINION Fi Glover The Radio 4 journalist airs her views For most of us, life is on pause. We’re caught in this strange global aspic where our movements are restricted, our daily life has been wound back in, nothingmajor is happening. Unless you are having a baby. More than 50,000 babies have been born during this time of lockdown. Those new parents will now be in their own personal lockdown. Many have compared this period of restriction to those early weeks of parenthood. You can’t really leave the sofa, can’t focus on a bigger horizon, can’t concentrate, can snack. But you can still choose a resonant name for your baby. According to a poll of 2,000parents, almost half believe that the crisis will be reflected in popular baby names; seven per cent of newparents have alreadynamed their o spring after something linked to the pandemic. In come ‘virtue’ names such as Faith, Hope, Charity andPatience.More than half the new parents surveyed are considering ‘rainbow’ names. Is someone really about to name their childYellow? For the boys, the same kind of influences give you names such as Hero, Bravery andMaverick. I am reaching for a pinch of salt over that last one. I love the wordmaverick, but aren’t you giving your child a lifetime of insecurity should he turn out to be a well-behaved, rule-abidingman? Elements of this surveymademe laugh. One in five said they would consider a ‘secure’ name for their child as the crisis continues… like Haven or Harbour. Why not call your little darling ‘Social Distancing’ and be done with it? You could also do what Boris Johnson has done and give your child a name that honours someone who has helped during the pandemic – the Nicholas inWilfred Lawrie Nicholas Johnson pays tribute to two doctors who saw the PM through his own illness. And at number 15 in the baby name charts is Florence. The renewed interest is being attributed to the Nightingale Hospitals, but I would argue that it’s because of Florence Nightingale herself, otherwise surely we’d be seeing Southampton General in there too? But whatever name you choose, your baby will always be a sign of the times. In the case of the Tesla billionaire Elon Musk, his baby – born last week – is literally that. A sign. He and his partner, Canadianmusician Grimes, named their son ‘XÆA-12Musk’. When asked to explain the meaning, Grimes said it included references to the couple’s favourite aircraft, the SR-71, and the elven spelling of AI. I know. Hard to fathom, even in a pandemic. @fifiglover Fortunately…with Fi and Jane, and IN MY OPINION Anita Anand author and broadca er airs he s Dry January has come a long way since 2013, when 4,000 people took part. Last year a record 130,000 of us pledged to forgo booze for amonth. But could giving it up for more than four weeks persuade you to stay sober for good? That was the experience of alcohol-free life coach Karolina Rzadkowolska, author of Euphoric: An Eight-Week Plan to Ditch Alcohol and ReclaimYour Life. Four years ago, Karolina was a weekend drinker. After taking part in Dry January, she decided to examine her relationship with alcohol. “I’d Dry January drives a thirst for change More people are going beyond the first month of the year and quitting alcohol for good – Patsy Westcott looks at this growing trend wanted to take a break for some time, but there always seemed to be a social event that involved drinking and I was worried what people would say,” she recalls. “That month, I fell in love with how well I felt. My sleep improved, I was more energetic and experienced a new sense of fun. I tried new classes, made di erent friends and got outsidemy comfort zone.” She returned to drinking socially in February, but soon stopped for good: “Even one or two drinks loweredmy mood andmademe feel cranky and exhausted. I decided to take another break and haven’t looked back.” Karolina isn’t alone. “There’s been an increase in the appetite for alcoholfree drinks,” observes Nicola Bates, director of external a airs at the Portman Group, the UK’s social responsibility body and regulator for alcohol labelling, packaging and promotion. According to a newYouGov survey, consumption of NoLo (alcoholfree and low alcohol) products rose by more than a quarter in 2021 compared with the previous year. The likelihood of consumers opting new outlook Karolina Rzadkowolska (right); Ellie Webb, whose Caleño brand creates rum alternatives ( far right) Is it to early, or too late, to wish you a wretched Blue M nday – suppos dly themost mise able day of the ye r? If you’re r ading this on 17 Ja uary, then I’ve n iled the timi g perfectly, whichwould leaveme feeling dead inside. Perhaps I misse it a d you’ve already eate the la t of the Stilton and dabbed blue cu açao b hind your ears? Did you take the blue bunting d wn yet? Let’s be honest. You haven’t done any of these things be ause BlueMonday is ’t thing… it never w s a d it never will be, nomatter what the newspap rs insist. As I understand it, B ueMonday was a construct that some smarty pants trav l compa y came up with year ago i an attempt to get us to bookmore flights. In 2004, the company paid for research, which threw about numbers and symbols, linking them to depressing hi gs like how fat and skint we fel , and how cold and dark it was outside. Armed with this ‘d ta’, n ‘equation’ formed, which supposedly proved that the thirdMonday each Jan ary was themost depr ssing ay of the year. Waiting in the wings, the me travel compa y flung out press releases like p scriptions, and in 2005, we were told to fly and eek sun! The cure f r BlueMonday was a bo rding pass apparently. More companies jump d on board a d the ‘BlueMon ay Sale!’ wa bo n. We were urged to buy yachts, yogurts, yaks, basically anything to turn ur frowns upside down. Academics in the field ofmental ealthwere horrified, and have bee scathing about BlueMonday ever sinc . On ts website, TheMental HealthFoundation ch rity describe BlueMonday as: ‘A ra her tedi us yearly PR event, often de igned to promote thi gs that are vaguely linked to improving our wellbeing, more often hannot wi h a complete lack of evidence’. Last year, heNHS declared th t ‘#BlueMonday isn’t supported by any r al evidence’, but acknowledged tha the Ja u ry lockdown was ‘an esp cially di cultmonth formany’. Despite spirit d e orts fromacademics and i stituti s, Bl eMond y bubbles ike pustule in a time of plague. The Samaritans tried to rebr nd it as ‘BrewMonday’ – a day o have a chat about troubling things. It’s w ll-meaning of course, but doesn’t t perpet ate the original sin?Maybe there’s no way o crushing the construct ow. Either way, Janu ry can be hard, especially these days. Shame on those whomonetisemisery. Fi Glover is away. anitaanand.net; @tweeter_anita ‘Academics in the field of mental health were horrified, and have been scathing about it ever since’

7 13 J ANUARY 202 2 welcome change Nicola Bates says the NoLo trend is on the rise 7 QUESTIONS WITH… KATY WIX The actor and writer on cake, resolutions and the best thing about being a ghost Photography: © StockFood, James Hacker, Club Soda, Faye Thomas of Latin-American inspired NoLo spirits brand Caleño, whose awardwinning rumalternatives, Dark and Spicy, and Light and Zesty, are proving a hit atWaitrose. Like Karolina, Ellie was inspired by her experience of Dry January. “I became frustrated by the dullness of non-alcoholic drinks,” she recalls. “Then on a visit to family in Colombia, it struckme that what the non-alcoholic space needed was joy and excitement.” Back in Bristol, she experimented in her kitchen, o ering the results to local restaurants and bars. Five years on, the company has expanded into five other European countries. Personal experience was also key for former city lawyer Rob Fink, CEO and founder of Big Drop, an 0.5%ABV beer, which is sold inWaitrose. “Big Drop is for people who love beer, but don’t have time for its consequences,” he adds. “Youmight, likeme, have young kids who need a lot of attention, youmight be training for a race, youmight be more conscious of what you consume.” Rob quit alcohol for sixmonths after the birth of his first son in 2014. “I still needed to do business development for my law firm that typically involved long boozy lunches and realised the quality of o erings wasn’t great. I did have reservations when we started out,” he says of the brewery that launched in 2016. “We were, as far as I knew, the first company ever dedicated entirely to non-alcoholic beer. And usually if something’s not been done before, there’s a reason. But I knew there was a market for it – it’s just that what was on o er wasn’t very good.” Until recently, beer and cider have been leading the NoLo charge but Nicola says: “We’re seeing an uptick in spirits and the wine sector is investing massively in innovation, so we can expect that to grow.” NoLo is clearly gainingmomentum, as Karolina observes: “Quitting alcohol was always viewed as a last-resort choice for problemdrinkers,” she says. “I went fromworking an unfulfilling 9-5 job, feeling stuck in life, and drinking each weekend to unwind. “I’ve been alcohol-free for four years – it’s the best decision of my life.” for NoLo almost doubled from 11% in 2020 to 20% in 2021, according to the survey. Themain reason cited was the ability to drive home from social events followed by a desire to socialise without drinking to excess. An ambition to improve health was alsomentioned. The pull on our purse strings has also played a part, according toMintel’s global food and drink analyst Martin Pasco: “Although the UK economy seems to have dodged a deep recession, if consumer confidence weakens, the rationale for moderation (in terms of savingmoney, performance at work and health) is likely to gain ground.” In a sign of the times, the UK’s first alcohol-free pop-up o -licence opened o London’s Regent Street and is there until the end of January. The store, fromMindful Drinking Festival creator Club Soda, stocks 70-plus brands. WithGordon’s, Tanqueray, Guinness andHeineken all o ering zero-alcohol versions of traditional tipples, the NoLo trend looks set to stay. InWaitrose, the sector grewby 67% in 2021 compared with 2020, withNoLo spirits seeing an 86% increase, followed by beer (78%), wine (38%) and cider (25%). Until now, one hurdle for people who choose tomoderate alcohol intake and drinkmoremindfully has been a lack of intensity and complexity of flavour in alternatives. But this is changing, with a new generation of independent producers such as EllieWebb, founder ‘Even one or two drinks lowered my mood. I decided to take another break and haven’t looked back’ going low Rob Fink created Big Drop 0.5% ABV beer ( left); alcoholfree pop-up store Club Soda in London (below) 1 Where are you? In my living room in south London. I can see rooftops, pigeons, scaffolding silhouetted against a dark sky – and neighbours having a row. 2 Best thing to happen to you so far today? A cancellation early this morning meant I could go back to bed for a bit. I was very happy about that. 3 Five words to describe your book Delicacy? Moving, clever, witty, poetic and truthful. It’s also a memoir about cake and death. What cake would I die for? An oatcake. 4 Best thing about January? The relief of Christmas being over! I like it but it can be a very emotionally heightened time too, with a certain pressure to enjoy it. 5 Have you made any new year resolutions? I don’t believe in them and have stopped making them. The last time I made one was when I was a teen, and it was to stop biting my nails. I just came to the slow realisation that they don’t work. I still bite them. 6 What advice would you give your 13-year-old self? That it’s OK to tell the truth. 7 Favourite things about playing Mary in the hit BBC sitcom Ghosts? As she’s quite eccentric, I have a lot of freedom with the character. Mary is from the 17th century and the many layers of underskirts I wear, as part of the period dress, keep me warm in the freezing house we älm in. Fun fact: the costume is loosely based on the Johannes Vermeer painting, The Milkmaid. Katy Wix’s Delicacy: A Memoir About Cake and Death (Headline) is out in paperback on 27 January. Interview: Nick Neads

9 13 J ANUARY 202 2 NEWS&VI EWS YOUNG INSPIRATION Eight-year-old Benjamin Fallow has carried pens and paper in his bag since he was three, and his drawings of birds, insects, badgers and the odd T-Rex are available as cards or prints at his online Etsy shop. A medical history of pneumonia meant he took art-älled nature walks while shielding through the pandemic, and The Guardian, BBC Wildlife Magazine, Chris Packham and the Natural History Museum have all shared or featured his work. @benjaminfallow KERNELS FOR CHANGE Keeping homes warm or cool in an ecofriendly way is a challenge taken up by scientists at Germany’s Göttingen University, who have turned popcorn into insulation. The all-natural boards have ‘excellent’ thermal insulation properties and provide protection against äre, potentially meaning they’re a climatefriendly alternative to standard insulation derived from petroleum. A German building materials company is set to produce them commercially. RARE BEES REDISCOVERED Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire is abuzz with the discovery of 800,000 rare forest honey bees in its woodlands. Believed to be the last wild descendants of Britain’s indigenous honey bee, which was decimated by the parasitic varroa mite in the 90s and feared extinct, the Blenheim bee is smaller and darker with more fur than its cousins in managed hives. Fifty feral colonies have been discovered at the estate, with one thought to be 200 years old. ‘PUNK’ PIGLET BORN Tufty-haired Visayan warty pigs are critically endangered, so news of the latest arrival in captivity is worthy of celebration. Chester Zoo has welcomed a piglet as part of a breeding programme – only around 200 pigs survive in the wild in the Visayan Islands in the Philippines. They’re famed for their ‘punk’ looks, as during breeding season, males develop a mohawk-like mane. THE GOOD NEWS GUIDE A weekly round-up of heartwarming stories Oceans apart, but united by a passion for sustainability Waitrose has become the first supermarket in the UK to trial a new generation of zeroemission electric vehicles. From this month, customers living near the St Katharine Docks seeWaitrose leading the way bymaking the important switch to electric vans, o ering green deliveries to thousands of customers, as we accelerate towards a net-zero future.” The trial builds on the retailer’s pledge to end the use of fossil fuels across its transport fleet by 2030, which it’s estimated will save 70,000 tonnes of CO2 every year. Even long-distance lorries, which cannot yet go electric, will be converted to use biomethane, a sustainable fuel – all 600 heavy trucks deployed byWaitrose will run on it by 2028. Waitrose has seen a rapid increase in online orders over the past two years. “Before the pandemic, we were taking 60,000 orders a week—we’re now doing well over 200,000,” saysMarija Rompani, Partner and director of ethics and sustainability at John Lewis Partnership. “The demand for grocery deliveries means prioritising an electric fleet is more important than ever.” Anna Shepard When it comes to January resolutions, upping the amount of fish and seafood in our diet is a good place to start, but it can be tricky to ensure that this new approach also wins on sustainability. To help get it right, sustainable fishing charity theMarine Stewardship Council (MSC) has launched an online recipe book to demonstrate the best ways to cook sustainable species fromour seas. The Ocean Cookbook 2022 is a global collaboration between award-winning chefs and fishermen and women, known as fishers, Electric vans accelerate the move to greener deliveries store in East London will have their groceries delivered by a van with innovative wireless charging technology. To top up on power, the vans must be parked above an electric plate, which works exactly like a flat charging plate for amobile phone. The technology has been installed by Flexible Power Systems, a UK company helping businesses to decarbonise. The charging pads have been trialled by vehicles belonging to Edinburgh Council, as part of a project developed withHeriot-Watt University, funded by the UKGovernment’s O ce for LowEmission Vehicles. Transport minister Trudy Harrison praised the project, saying: “I am thrilled to which is free to download at msc.org/uk. The book contains 12 recipes by chefs fromaround the world. Fishmongerturned-restaurateurMitch Tonks (right) fronts up the UK page, with his recipe for haddock with fennel. It also features Canadian chef Charlotte Langley’s flaked wild cod salad, amussel bowl and two anchovy pasta dishes. “It’s our second year doing an online cookbook, but this year we’re doing things di erently by o ering fishers who harvest sustainable species the chance to work with chefs to create the dishes,” says George Clark, UK and Ireland MSC programme director. “Each recipe is paired with a fisher who fishes that particular MSC-certified species, the aimbeing to highlight how easy it is to rustle up healthy, sustainable fish and seafood dishes tomake at home.” Photos in the cookbook were taken by award-winning food photographer David Loftus, whose work has appeared in books by chefs Jamie Oliver and ElizabethDavid. He says: “Let our amazing chefs from around the world show you sustainability doesn’t just feel good, but also tastes great.” Anna Shepard fish fashion Mitch Tonks’ haddock with fennel, lemon and black olives ( left); Asianinspired mussel bowl (above) Photography: David Loftus for MSC, Rockäsh, Chester Zoo

13 J ANUARY 202 2 10 NEWS&VI EWS In February 2020, Elvis Costello kicked o his latest UK tour at the Liverpool Olympia in front of a sold-out crowd that included his mother, Lillian. “It was in the same dance hall she used to go to as a young woman, when it was known as the Locarno Ballroom,” the singer, songwriter and distinguishedmusical man of letters tells Weekend. “It’s an old circus building, which actually used to be onmy way home from school, except it had closed down by then. Anyway, they brought it back to life, and it was the opening night of the tour, and there’s my 93-year-oldmother singing along to Alison. I couldn’t have imagined anything better.” After the show, Lillian, who’d recently left hospital after a stroke, asked for her wheelchair to be pushed onto the floor where, seven decades earlier, she’d danced to the big band music of the 40s. It was, by all accounts, a good night. Elvis and his band The Imposters then continued the tour, making it as far as the Hammersmith Apollo in London before the encroaching Covid-19 pandemic caught up with them. With the remaining dates cancelled, Elvis flew to spend the earlymonths of lockdown in a cabin on Vancouver Island with his wife, Canadian jazzmusician Diana Krall, and their teenage twins, Dexter and Frank. “Given how confinedmany people were, that was very fortuitous,” says the 67-year-old. “We went for walks in the woods and, as bothmine andmy wife’s job often involves travelling to playmusic, it was no bad thing to have a good period of time together.” But even in splendid isolation, there was no escaping the anxiety and uncertainty of life during Covid. “I lost a few friends, you probably did, too,” says Elvis. “I couldn’t go to England, the border was closed. My eldest son [Matt, 45, fromhis first marriage toMary Burgoyne], I didn’t see for 18 months. Mymother had had a series of crises, and the last few I couldn’t respond to by travelling there to cheer her up. “And in the end she passed, with little anticipation, and… you know, you have to have a virtual funeral. Can you think of anythingmore peculiar? Of course, I’mnot alone –many people have said goodbye to loved ones in those circumstances, or have gone through a door in a hospital and never seen themagain. Very strange.”Music, perhaps inevitably, provided a therapeutic outlet. “You want to scream and shout and get something out,” he says. “Diana was up on the second floor, mixing a record, and I’mout in the back garden, screamingmy head o , so we’re a good pair.” Indeed, while the world slowed down, Elvis only seemed to becomemore prolific. Since the start of the pandemic, he’s released a new album, 2020’s Hey Clockface, re-recorded six of its tracks for a French-language EP, remade his entire 1978 album This Year’sModel in Spanish, written and recorded an original audiobook, and curated a lavish boxset reissue of 1979’s Armed Forces. And for an encore, he’s now created a second new albumof original material, The Boy Named If, for which he’s also written an accompanying book of children’s stories. Because of course he has. The record, he says, is a series of snapshots, loosely themed around the end of innocence – “themoment when you’re leaving the certainty and themagical imagination of childhood, and entering into the terror of desire and lust, and all the lies you tell yourself and other people”. The ‘If ’ of the title track, he explains, is a nickname for your imaginary friend – the ‘secret self ’ you can conveniently blame for all your bad or hurtful decisions. Not that the young Declan PatrickMcManus, who was born in Paddington and spent his early years inWest London beforemoving to his mother’s nativeMerseyside at 16, ever had an actual imaginary friend. “I didn’t need one, because I’ma Catholic, so I was told I had a guardian angel,” he says. “I’malso the person who confessed to adultery inmy very first confession, because I thought I’d better have something onmy rap sheet. I was quite an honest, fresh-faced boy, so I picked a sin where I didn’t knowwhat the wordmeant. “The priest, of course, just sniggered. Though I think confessing in advance to adultery put me in good stead for the number of times I did actually commit that sin later in life,” he notes drily. “Andmaybe I’ll have less time in purgatory when I go there.” Though he talks in the accompanying press notes about Elvis Costello talks to Paul Kirkley about guardian angels, imaginary sins, losing his mother in lockdown, and why he was never really an angry young man Confessions of a boy named Elvis

13 J ANUARY 202 2 11 ‘I didn’t need an imaginary friend, because I’m a Catholic, so I was told I had a guardian angel’ Photography: Mark Seliger

13 J ANUARY 202 2 12 MAKING HIS MARK Elvis on Saturday Night Live in 1977, after which he was banned from the show for more than 20 years ( left); with wife Diana Krall (right) The Boy Named If (And Other Children’s Stories) is out on 14 January (EMI) NEWS&VI EWS “guilt and shame and all those other useless possessions that youmust throw overboard”, it’s hard to tell if the songs on The Boy Named If are confessionals, as such. As smart, playful and densely literate as you’d expect from this master storyteller and self-described ‘rock and roll Scrabble champion’, the album’s 13 tracks o er fewAdele-style clues into the state of their creator’s life, or his relationship with his wife, children or pets. “I don’t have any pets,” he smiles. “And honestly can’t comment on Adele. But you don’t have to have lived through every single thing you imagine – otherwise crime writers would all be in jail, because they’re constantly killing people.” The Boy Named If conjures something of the raw, spiky urgency of Elvis’ early newwave period, when he harnessed the energy of punk to a songwriter’s craftsmanship on instant classics like Oliver’s Army, AccidentsWill Happen and the reggae-infused Watching the Detectives. If that is the case, he says – and it wasn’t intentional – it probably just arose from the way he wrote and recorded it with longtime Imposters sidemen Pete Thomas (drums), Steve Nieve (keyboards) – both graduates of his original band, the Attractions – and Davey Faragher (bass). “It’s just what we do,” he shrugs. If he’s pleased to be told he still sounds young and hungry (and he sees no reason whymusicians of his vintage shouldn’t), he’s less comfortable with his reputation as a former ‘angry youngman’ of rock. “I don’t know if anger is particularly something I aspire to,” he considers. “I don’t want self-satisfied contentment, but I don’t want to deny love or tenderness, and I never did. It’s people’s choice to believe the reductive legend of my first records. Some of themare critical, some of themare doubtful or sceptical about certain concepts of beauty and romance, but there’s no hate in them. “Just the other day, someone quotedme the famous revenge and guilt quote [in 1977, Elvis told the NME his only two creativemotivations were “revenge and guilt… love doesn’t exist inmy songs”] and askedme if I still felt that way. I said: ‘Howmany things that you said for e ect when you were 22 and half drunk do you believe?’” DeclanMcManus inherited some of his musical gifts from his Irish-descended father Ross, a jazz trumpeter and singer with the Joe Loss Orchestra, who played the 1963 Royal Variety Performance bill alongside The Beatles andMarlene Dietrich, and later scored a solo hit in Australia with a cover of The Long andWinding Road. He also wrote and performed RWhite’s Lemonade’s legendary Secret Lemonade Drinker ad jingle, with the young Declan on backing vocals. With his rockabilly suits and trademark specs, Elvis Costello (the name was his manager’s suggestion) emerged in the late 70s looking every inch the punk poet, with an attitude tomatch – he was famously banned fromAmerica’s Saturday Night Live for more than 20 years after stopping a performance of Less Than Zero mid-song to play the anti-commercialisation anthem Radio Radio, in defiance of an order from the producers. But as early as 1981 he was diversifying into country, with a hit cover of George Jones’ AGood Year for the Roses, and in the decades since his eclectic and prolific output has taken in folk, jazz, chamber music, opera, ballet and all points in between. He’s performed at Live Aid, played himself on everything from The Simpsons to Austin Powers and confirmed his showbiz credentials bymarrying Krall – his third wife, who hemet backstage after watching her performat the Sydney Opera House in 2003 – in a ceremony at Elton John’s house. In 2019, a year after receiving successful treatment for prostate cancer, the one-time rock and roll rebel accepted the OBE in The Queen’s Birthday Honours – largely, he says, to please his mum. “I was turning it down andmymum said: ‘No you’re not!’ But do you knowwhat else it was? I have a programme of the sta Christmas ball at BuckinghamPalace in 1962, where the Joe Loss Orchestra was hired to play the samba and the waltz and The Gay Gordons. And you can bet your lifemy dad went in the tradesmen’s entrance, because they were the help. Well, you knowwhat? I went in the front. Eventually, they’ve got to look you in the eye.” As one of only two properly iconic Elvises in the world (“That depends on who you ask,” he demurs. “I think there’s a skater and an ice hockey player as well”), does he ever stop to consider his own legacy? “Never,” he says, firmly. “The thing about legacy is, you only need it if you’re not here. And I’mnot planning on dying any time soon. I’mactually not planning on dying at all.” A LIFE IN MUSIC For his 1986 album King of America, Elvis recruited members of the other Elvis’s old backing band, including James Burton and Jerry Scheff. “That was a real, ‘woah, how did this happen?’ moment,” he admits. Other favoured collaborators have included Burt Bacharach, Carole King and Paul McCartney, who’s on record as saying it’s Elvis’ voice he hears in his head when he’s making records. “I said to him: ‘What are you talking about? Why are you saying that?’” he recalls, shaking his head. For a kid who partly grew up in Liverpool, does it ever feel normal, being mates with Macca? “Never,” he says. “I saw him just the week before last, and I never quite get over it.” Alongside his Grammies (most recently for 2018’s Look Now album), Bafta, OBE and an Oscar nomination, Elvis has been inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, and was ranked number 80 on Rolling Stone’s list of the 100 Greatest Artists of All Time (“Why don’t you shower me with faint praise?” he laughs). ‘I don’t want self-satisfied contentment, but I don’t want to deny love or tenderness, and I never did’ Photography: Getty Images, Kevin Mazur/WireImage

13 J ANUARY 202 2 13 FOOD&DRINK Healthy Every Day Including sausage, white bean & leek soup with kale crisps p14 Family favourite Georgina Hayden’s pomegranate chicken & pistachio pilaf p17 Fresh ideas Elly Curshen’s inspiring recipes for a plant-based start to 2022 p23 Photography: Tom Regester Food Styling: Jennifer Joyce Props Styling: Jo Harris

13 J ANUARY 202 2 14 To make delicious and nutritious choices, look for our Good Health label FOOD&DRINK Egg recipes containing raw or semi-cooked egg are not suitable for pregnant women, elderly people, or those with weak immune systems. For information on nutrition and health, visit waitrose.com/nutrition. V vegetarian. Healthy Every Day One of my favourite foodie traditions is making marmalade, and it comes at just the right time of year. It might be cold and grey outside, but I can spend a cosy afternoon in my kitchen, with the radio on and the pans bubbling away, älling the house with the most delicious citrussy smells. And at the end of it, there’s the satisfaction of seeing rows of jars lined up – some I’ll save for my breakfast toast, but I also have a long list of friends and family who put their orders in every year. If you’ve never tried making your own, I recommend having a go – it’s simple and very satisfying. Head to waitrose.com for a simple step-bystep recipe. ALISON OAKERVEE Partner & food and drink editor Spelt spaghetti with caramelised cauliflower & shallots Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp unsalted butter 1 large echalion shallot, änely sliced 2 cloves garlic, änely chopped ½ large cauliåower, tough core removed 1½ tsp capers, drained and roughly chopped ½ lemon, juice Pinch dried chilli åakes 160g wholegrain spelt spaghetti 20g Parmigiano Reggiano, änely grated, plus optional extra to serve ¼ x 25g pack åat leaf parsley, roughly chopped 1 Heat the oil and butter over a high heat in a large sauté or frying pan with a lid. When foaming, fry the shallot and garlic for 2 minutes. Meanwhile, änely slice the cauliåower (don’t worry if it breaks up), then add it to the pan with the capers. Season, then stir to coat in the butter and oil. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. 2 Remove the lid from the cauliåower pan, squeeze in the lemon juice and add the chilli åakes. Cook for another 8 minutes, stirring regularly, until golden and caramelised. Cook the spaghetti according to pack instructions. 3 Scoop a mugful of cooking water out of the pasta pan, then drain the spaghetti. Tip it into the cauliåower pan with the Parmigiano Reggiano, parsley and enough cooking water to loosen. Toss, season with black pepper and serve immediately with extra grated cheese, if liked. V Per serving 2025kJ/482kcals/16g fat/5.9g saturated fat/63g carbs/8.7g sugars/9.9g äbre/20g protein/1.3g salt/ 1 of your 5 a day Source of äbre Swedish-style turkey meatballs with root mash Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 20 minutes 500g pack British turkey thigh mince 1 onion, coarsely grated ½ tsp ground allspice 1 tbsp chopped dill, plus extra sprigs to garnish 2 tbsp olive oil 350g sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm dice 350g swede or parsnips, peeled and cut into 2cm dice 250g green beans 2 tsp plain åour 300ml Cooks’ Ingredients Chicken Stock 1-2 tbsp single cream 1 Mix the turkey mince, onion, allspice, and chopped dill. Season, then shape into 20 evenly sized meatballs. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan over a high heat. Fry the meatballs for about 8 minutes, turning regularly, until browned all over. 2 Bring 2 large pans of water to the boil. Add the root vegetables to the ärst pan and simmer for 12 minutes, until completely tender. Drain thoroughly, leave to steam dry for a couple of minutes, then add 1 tbsp oil, mash, season and set aside. Cook the green beans for 3-4 minutes in the other pan, then drain and keep warm. 3 Scoop the meatballs out of the pan, leaving behind any fat. Turn the heat to medium, stir in the åour to blend with the fat and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock a little at a time, stirring constantly, then simmer for 2 minutes. Return the meatballs to the pan and simmer for another 2-3 minutes, until cooked through with no pink meat and the juices run clear. Stir in the cream then scatter with dill and serve with the mash and green beans. Per serving 1772kJ/421kcals/12g fat/ 4g saturated fat/30g carbs/14g sugars/ 8.6g äbre/45g protein/1g salt/high in protein 3 of your 5 a day Cook’s tip Spelt is an ancient grain that is high in äbre and adds a nutty åavour to dishes. Wholegrains are a great way to include more äbre in our diets – try including a variety of äbre-providing foods regularly, such as wholemeal bread, brown pasta or rice, fruit, vegetables, beans, nuts, seeds and potatoes with their skins on. Cook’s tip Save time by heating a pack or two of our pre-prepared Carrot, Swede & Potato Mash rather than making your own from scratch.

13 J ANUARY 202 2 15 CASHBACK ON GOOD HEALTH FOODS FOR VITALITY MEMBERS If you are a Vitality member with a myWaitrose card, you can receive up to 25% cashback onWaitrose food that carries the Good Health label – visit vitality.co.uk for details. Cook’s tip Our Scottish rope-grown mussels are responsibly sourced and certiäed by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). Best of all, they are incredibly quick to cook, making them a brilliant standby for easy, midweek meals. Cook’s tip Combining animal protein with plant proteins such as beans, lentils and chickpeas is a great way to increase the variety of protein and nutrients in your diet. Beans are naturally low in fat, high in äbre and also count towards your 5 a day. Try swapping the cannellini beans in this recipe for a can of chickpeas, or other beans for variation. Cook’s tip As with any stir fry recipe, make sure you have all your ingredients prepared and ready to go before you start cooking. To save time and chopping, you could try some of our prepared stir fry packs too. Mussels with harissa & lemon Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 15 minutes 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, änely diced ½ bulb fennel, änely sliced 2 cloves garlic, änely diced 2 tsp Cooks’ Ingredients Ruby Rose Harissa 2 medium tomatoes, änely diced 200g pack pre-cooked ropegrown Scottish mussels 200ml Cooks’ Ingredients Fish Stock ¼ lemon, juice ¼ x 25g pack coriander, leaves only 2 x 50g slices Essential Baguette 1 Heat the oil over a medium heat in a large saucepan or sauté pan with a lid. Fry the onion and fennel with a pinch of salt for a couple of minutes, then add the garlic and fry for another 3-4 minutes, until soft and just turning golden. 2 Stir in the harissa, then the tomatoes and fry for 1 minute more. Cut open the pouch of mussels and tip into the pan, stirring into the sauce. Add the stock, increase the heat and cover with a lid. Simmer for 4 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat (discard any unopened mussels). 3 Squeeze in the lemon juice, then divide between shallow bowls and scatter with the coriander. Serve immediately with crusty bread. Per serving 308kJ/311kcals/8.2g fat/1.4g saturated fat/40g carbs/ 13g sugars/6.2g äbre/15g protein/ 1.8g salt/ 2 of your 5 a day Low in saturated fat Sausage, white bean & leek soup with kale crisps Serves 4 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 25 minutes 3 tsp olive oil 1 large onion, änely diced ½ x 400g pack 6 Toulouse-style sausages 2 leeks, änely sliced 1 tsp rosemary, chopped 400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1L Cooks’ Ingredients Chicken Stock ½ lemon, juice 150g pack Pentland Brig kale, leaves torn 4 slices wholemeal toast 15g unsalted butter 1 Preheat the oven to 170°C, gas mark 3. Heat 1 tsp oil in a large saucepan over a high heat. Add the onion, squeeze in the sausagemeat (discard the skins) and fry, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, for 10 minutes, or until cooked through with no pink meat. Tip onto a plate, cover and set aside. 2 Return the pan, with any leftover oil and meaty bits, to the heat with another 1 tsp oil, then add the leeks, rosemary and a pinch of salt. Cover with a lid and sweat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Add the beans, stock and most of the lemon juice and simmer for another 5 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, toss the kale in the remaining 1 tsp oil, scrunching a little to coat. Arrange over a large parchment-lined baking sheet, season with salt and a few drops of lemon juice and roast for 8-10 minutes, turning halfway, until crisp. Tip the sausagemeat and onions into the soup and simmer for 1 minute. Serve in bowls, topped with the kale and buttered toast on the side. Per serving 1718kJ/410kcals/17g fat/5.8g saturated fat/32g carbs/ 8.8g sugars/12g äbre/26g protein/ 1.2g salt/2 of your 5 a day High in protein Stir fried turnips & broccoli with jasmine rice Serves 2 Prepare 10 minutes Cook 10 minutes 200g Tenderstem broccoli, thicker stems halved 1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine 1 tbsp reduced-salt soy sauce 2 tsp maple syrup 1 tbsp sunåower oil 200g turnips, trimmed, peeled and cut into thin wedges 2 cloves garlic, änely grated 1 tsp änely grated ginger 4 salad onions, cut into 3cm pieces 250g pack microwaveable jasmine rice 50g cashew nuts, toasted and roughly chopped 1 Place the broccoli in a bowl and cover with just-boiled water from the kettle. Set aside for 3 minutes, then drain. Meanwhile, mix the rice wine, soy sauce, maple syrup and 1 tbsp water in a bowl. 2 Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan over a high heat. When hot, add the turnips and fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring regularly until golden. Add the garlic, ginger and salad onions and fry for another minute. 3 Tip in the soy mixture and fry for 1 minute more, then add the broccoli and stir together over the heat for a änal minute. Heat the rice according to pack instructions and serve with the stir fried vegetables and cashews scattered over the top. V Per serving 2243kJ/535kcals/21g fat/3.5g saturated fat/67g carbs/15g sugars/8.5g äbre/14g protein/0.6g salt/ low in saturated fat/vegan 2 of your 5 a day Photography: Mowie Kay Food Styling: Joss Herd Props Styling: Wei Tang

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