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with Diana Henry
There’s been no Scandi-inspired
midsummer meal in my house this
year. Lockdown meant it barely felt
as if it was summer, no matter what
the weather was like. So, I’m going
to make my midsummer meal in
July. I’m always struck by how much
Scandinavian cooking takes you
outside. I often end up thinking about
forests and the sea and this meal
Radishes are a good way to start
meals now. Their pepperiness and
crunch seem to whet your appetite.
For this menu, I adapted the French
idea of eating them with just salt,
butter and bread. The colours of the
radishes and the green butter are
stunning. You can serve some hardboiled
Plaice is a fish I rarely cook, but
it cropped up a lot on menus when
I was in Denmark. I’ve recreated a
dish I had at Schøennemann – one of
Copenhagen’s oldest restaurants – for
the main course. They serve the plaice
on rye bread as an open sandwich and
finish it with two colours of caviar, both
black and orange, and two colours of
mayonnaise. You could use lemon sole
instead if you’re not a lover of plaice.
The gooseberry pudding is based
on our British summer pudding.
Elderflowers are gone now, but you
can incorporate their flavour into this
by adding a little elderflower cordial to
the poached gooseberries, or flavouring
whipped cream with it.
quail’s eggs as part of it too.
Diana Henry is The Sunday Telegraph’s food writer.
Radishes with salad onion butter & rye bread
Get French breakfast radishes for this, or preferably those sold in a bunch.
It also works with baguette or Irish soda bread if you can’t get rye bread
Prepare 10 minutes + chilling
3 salad onions, trimmed
and very finely chopped
200-400g Duchy Organic
Bunched Radish, leaves
intact if possible
Sea salt flakes, to serve
8-12 slices of rye bread
1 Mash the butter in a bowl
with the salad onions (or
pound in a mortar and pestle).
Cover and put in the fridge.
2 When the butter is firm
enough to shape, put it onto
a piece of greaseproof paper
and, using the paper, form it
into a log. Wrap it in the
paper and twist the ends.
Keep in the fridge.
3 Wash the radishes well,
making sure you get the dirt
off the leaves and from
around the top. Leave on the
freshest leaves (if any are
discoloured, remove them).
4 Take the butter out of the
fridge to give it time to soften
a little. You want it to be cold,
but not hard. Serve the
radishes with sea salt, the
butter and slices of rye bread.
V Per serving (for 4) 1964kJ/
472kcals/27g fat/17g saturated fat/
44g carbs/4.4g sugars/13g fibre/
6g protein/1.2g salt
Plaice is delicious
– but if you prefer its
Prepare 15 minutes
Cook 16-18 minutes
55g soured cream
5g dill leaves, chopped, plus
extra sprigs for serving
4 large plaice fillets, skin on
85g plain flour, seasoned
3 British Blacktail Medium
Free Range Eggs, lightly
beaten and seasoned
200g stale breadcrumbs
Groundnut oil, for frying
175g cooked and shelled
cold water prawns
50g jar salmon caviar
4 lemon wedges, to serve